fested towards strangers: of this I can speak experimentally, for I received courteous salutations in all the towns from thousands, whom I had never seen before; and I never made my appearance in the saal of my hotel, without being received, not only with the usual salutations of "guten morgen," but with a “recht schönen guten morgen," (right beautiful good morning;) and this not alone from the individuals attached to the establishment, but from the whole of the guests; nor do I recollect ever entering an inn, throughout the country, without being received with a "gar schön wilkommen," (most delightful welcome.) Indeed, the word "schön" (beautiful) seems quite national; for, if I made the slightest request, even for a cup of coffee, the answer would most probably be "schön," instead of "ja mein herr," (yes, sir).

The word beautiful is, however, peculiarly applicable to their cemeteries, which I have never seen exceeded in neatness. The Germans, who are generally fond of flowers, have adopted them as symbols of affection for their departed friends; and every grave is planted with clusters of lilies, primroses, violets, and forget-me-nots, with here and there an evergreen. This method of cherishing the memory of those we love, is at once simple and touching; the hand of the mourner rears its fragile emblems of human life, mingles her tears on the leaves with the dew of heaven, and, when the blossoms wither and die, remembers the resurrection, of which all nature is a type, and is comforted.

In some parts of Silesia, I found the commendable

custom prevailed of having what is termed a deadhouse attached to each cemetery, in which every person who dies, is deposited till signs are exhibited of decomposition. The deceased is laid upon a bier, with the hand attached to a bell-rope in such a manner, that, in the event of returning animation, the slightest motion is sufficient to alarm the attendant, who resides in an adjoining apartment, when the physician is sent for belonging to the establishment, and every means adopted for complete resuscitation that science can suggest'. I wish I could add, that this practice was general throughout Germany; but, in the greatest part of this extensive empire, forty-eight hours is the longest period allowed by the authorities for the dead to remain above ground; and I have repeatedly been informed of facts, which induced the horrible suspicion that premature interment too frequently occurs. They have also another singular practice in Germany, that of burying the dead, not in a winding sheet, or graveclothes, but in dresses similar to those worn during life; thus, the citizen is attired in a suit of mourning, the military man in his uniform, and the prince and the noble in state dresses, decorated with orders.

'How sincerely is it to be wished, that a law was passed, rendering the introduction of similar institutions imperative upon every parish throughout England. The wit of man could invent no better plan for the discovery of secret violence, particularly if burial was prohibited till a certificate of permission was obtained from the medical man appointed for that purpose. To any objection that might be made on the score of expense, let it be remembered that Germany, as a country, is much poorer than England, and yet she supports it.

But to return to my good friends the Silesians. In a country where linen is still the staple commodity, the majority of the men are weavers, which trade they often exercise in conjunction with their employments as agriculturists; and the women, without exception, are spinners of flax, for we frequently see the better classes pursuing their thread-making occupation, not only in the saloon, but on the promenade, and the lower orders in their huts and on the high road, even while their heads are heavily laden with provisions for the market; but instead of the wheel they use the distaff, which, I was informed, was the prime cause of the superior excellence of the Silesian linen, as the thread is by this process rendered more soft, round, and less inclined to break. There is, however, a wide difference between the inhabitants of Silesia, descended from German colonists, and the native Sclavonians, particularly those who people the districts on the frontiers of Poland. The former are industrious, cleanly, and manufacturing, while the latter are debased by ignorance, mendicity, and superstition; they also resemble their neighbours the Poles, not only in their language, which is a species of Polish patois, but in their sheep-skin jackets and greasy kappstas, neither of which are ever allowed to contaminate soap and water: another point of similarity is their inordinate attachment to vodka, and a deep veneration for Madonnas, saints, and crucifixes. But, perhaps, no distinctive trait of manners more characterizes both, than their humiliating mode of acknowledging a kindness, their expression of gratitude being

the servile "Upadam do nog," (I fall at your feet,) which is no figure of speech, for they will literally throw themselves down and kiss your feet for the trifling donation of a few half-pence. How abject is the state to which feudal vassalage and superstition have reduced this people!

CHAPTER VII.

Ascent of the Schneekoppe-The châlet of Hempelsbaute-Adersbach labyrinth of rocks-English spleen-Mineral bath of WarmbrunMode of bathing-Ruins of Kynast-Legend of Kunigunde-Waterfalls -Valley of the Elbe-Friederichsthal-General observations upon the Riesengebirge and its inhabitants.

It was on one of those beautiful crystal mornings which frequently succeed a slight thunder-storm, that, accompanied by a guide, I took my departure for the Schneekoppe, the loftiest peak of the great chain of the Riesengebirge. The country continued extremely picturesque so long as we remained in the vicinity of the manufacturing town of Schmiedeberg; but, after about an hour's walk, an extensive forest received us, in whose deep solitudes reigned eternal twilight. At one time we wandered over diminutive prairies, then plunged into gloomy dells, and at another, scrambled up granite cliffs, from whose sharp points we caught many a delightful glimpse over the sunny vales and peaceful hamlets beneath; mountain rivulets frequently rushed