MUNICH. 315 CHAPTER XXIV. Munich-Table d'hôte-German Amusements-Horsemanship-Shooting-parties-Fine Arts-The King of Bavaria-Palace-People-Manners-Journey to Augsburg-The City-German Casinos-Route to Stutgard. I ENTERED Munich as the tolling of the bells announced it was twelve o'clock, that important hour when the whole population of Germany are either seated at dinner, or hastening to secure it; and the traveller, unacquainted with German habits, who should then be passing through this very lively city, would record it as one of the most triste-looking towns he had ever entered; the only persons visible being a few men hastening with most un-German-like strides to the table d'hôte, apprehensive of losing their soup, or a few servants carrying their master's dinner from the restaurant, in little, deep earthen-ware dishes, made to fit one into the other, and the whole pile of seven or eight safely packed in a high basket, just large enough to contain them. If this custom of sending out dinners were introduced into England, it would be found very useful to bachelors and small families, and in consequence of its economy, is daily becoming more general in Germany the number of customers is probably the reason that the restaurateurs can afford to serve them so cheap. I put up at the Schwarze-Adler, where I met with good accommodation and moderate charges. Upon taking my seat at the table d'hôte, I found the party to consist of nearly forty persons, the majority military men and civil employées, and it would be impossible to meet in any country with men of more gentlemanly manners. I was placed between two sons of Mars, with most warlike mustachios, a privilege which distinguishes the Bavarian officers from their brethren in Austria. My gallant neighbours displayed towards me the most polite attention, anticipating as far as possible even my wishes; and this marked courtesy was extended merely because I was a stranger. There was no greedy desire displayed to appropriate the contents of the recherché dishes, which I have seen in some other towns in Germany, no endless category of questions as to whence I had come, and whither I was going; there was a sufficient interchange of civilities, which led to a world of courtesies, without that most uncivil crossquestioning, to which I have in a former chapter alluded, so that I absolutely felt as if dining among a party of friends. Add to this, we had an excellent band of music, the dinner was good and well-dressed, and we paid, without wine, forty-eight kreutzers (one shilling and four-pence). Immediately after dinner, the company broke up; some formed small parties, and commenced playing cards or chess, while others sauntered to the casino to read the daily papers. We are surprised to observe the little exercise that suffices for the frame of a German. The better classes rarely fatigue themselves more violently than in playing a game at billiards, while their humbler brethren content themselves with one at nine pins. Hunting is unknown, and a game at cricket, or a rowing match, such as we have in England, would certainly throw the whole nation into a fever. When a Ger man rides on horseback, he most considerately restrains his steed within a gentle trot; he sits perfectly erect, and appears as immoveably fixed in the saddle as the equestrian statue in Don Juan. On the other hand, he considers us most ungraceful horsemen, worthy successors of Johnny Gilpin; and I have repeatedly seen the inhabitants of whole villages shouting with laughter, as a party of English gentlemen rode past, although they displayed the most approved style of horsemanship à l'Anglaise. The Germans, however, are by no means despicable horsemen, and make excellent cavalry officers; but the military mode of riding, when exhibited by the Bourgeoise, has, to an English eye, a very ungraceful effect. This mode is, however, general throughout the whole continent; but those foreigners who practise it at an English fox chase will find, to their cost, that we are not quite such novices in the art of riding as they in their simplicity may be pleased to suppose; for I have generally seen them thrown out of the saddle in five minutes after starting. Target shooting is much practised in Germany, and the Bavarians, especially, are capital marksmen; for this being a lazy amusement, perfectly accords with the indolent habits of this very quiet people. The principal diversions, however, of the higher classes are shooting parties; so totally different from those we are accustomed to enjoy in our own country, that an Englishman who has attended one, during the depths of winter, must certainly be insensible to the cold, or have a most unnatural propensity for slaughtering the inhabitants of the forest, if he is induced a second time to become a German Jäger. On these occasions a large party are invited, frequently by the sovereign, consisting rarely of less than from fifty to sixty persons, all of whom must conform to the rules of the Jagdmeister, who places them in certain points of the circle, intended to be the theatre of the chase, from whence they are not allowed to depart. This part of the forest is entirely surrounded by peasants, to prevent the escape of the game. When every thing is arranged, they beat the woods, and drive the animals into the power of the Jägers, each of whom takes his turn to fire; hence the deer and hare are indiscriminately slaughtered. This is all very well until the space becomes contracted, and the animals very numerous; then all order is forgotten in the eagerness of the huntsmen to fire, who, only anxious to secure their prey, shoot in every direction; conse quently, if the Jäger returns home without being wounded in mistake by some of the less skilful Nimrods, he may deem himself fortunate. I have seen many of the Kammer-Herren, evidently more accustomed to handle the cue than the gun, and a billiard ball than a bullet, firing as chance might direct: now hitting a tree, and then grazing a hat. In the last shooting party I attended at Gratz in Styria, I actually saw an unhappy son of Esculapius receive the whole discharge of a gun; fortunately it was only a dose of leaden pills, for had it been a bolus, more serious consequences might have ensued than merely protracted lameness. This wholesale method of killing game has, however, the effect of preventing deer and hares from multiplying too rapidly, and supplying the markets most abundantly. However fascinating this mode of enjoying the chase may be to Germans, it is not so to us; for how is it possible to derive any amusement from shivering for hours up to one's knees in snow, and with hands almost frozen to the gun? These expeditions are always attended by servants with abundance of provisions; but my readers must agree with me, that a fête champetre in the depth of a German winter is any thing but agreeable. I was much pleased with the general appearance of Munich, which has kept pace with Vienna in the march of modern improvement. This is every where visible; for we see new and splendid streets, extending 5 |