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alcalde wrote him Catolico Romano Apostolico Christiano. Mr. Bailey himself did not contemplate this; he knew the difficulty in the case of my countryman about six months before; and wishing to spare his friends a disagreeable and, perhaps, unsuccessful controversy, had already indicated a particular tree under which he wished to be buried. Before the will was read to him he died. His answer to the alcalde was considered evidence of his orthodoxy; his friends did not interfere, and he was buried under the special direction of the priests, with all the holiest ceremonies of the Church. It was the greatest day ever known in Cartago. The funeral was attended by all the citizens. The procession started from the door of the chtirch, headed by violins and drums; priests followed, with all the crosses, figures of saints, and banners that had been accumulating from the foundation of the city. At the corners of the plaza and of all the principal streets, the procession stopped to sing hallelujahs, to represent the joy in Heaven over a sinner that repents.

While standing in the corridor we saw pass the man who had accompanied the bier, with the child in his arms. He was its father, and with a smile on his face was carrying it to its grave. He was followed by two boys playing on violins, and others were laughing around. The child was dressed in white, with a wreath of rosea around its head; and as it lay in its father's arms it did not seem dead, but sleeping. The grave was not quite ready, and the boys sat on the heap of dirt thrown out, and played the violin till it was finished. The father then laid the child carefully in its final restingplace, with its head to the rising sun; folded its little hands across its breast, and closed its fingers around a small wooden crucifix; and it seemed, as they thought

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it was, happy at escaping the troubles of an uncertain world. There were no tears shed; on the contrary, all were cheerful; and though it appeared heartless, it was not because the father did not love his child, but because he and all his friends had been taught to believe, and were firm in the conviction, that, taken away so young, it was transferred immediately to a better world. The father sprinkled a handful of dirt over its face, the grave-digger took his shovel, in a few moments the little grave was filled up, and preceded by the boy playing on his violin, we all went away together. The next morning, with great regret, I took leave of my kind friends and returned to San José. It is my misfortune to be the sport of other men's wives. I lost the best servant I had in Guatimala because his wife was afraid to trust him with me, and on my return I found "Hezoos at the convent waiting for me. While putting my things in order, without looking me in the face, he told me of the hardships his wife, “la povera,” had suffered during his absence, and how difficult it was for a married woman to get along without her husband. I saw to what he was tending; and feeling, particularly since the recurrence of my fever and ague, the importance of having a good servant in the long journey I had before me, with the selfishness of a traveller I encouraged his vagabond propensities, by telling him that in a few weeks he would be tired of home, and would not have so good an opportunity of getting away. This seemed so sensible that he discontinued his hints and went off contented. At three o'clock I felt uncertain in regard to my chill, but, determined not to give way, dressed myself, and went to dine with Mr. Steiples. Before sitting down, the blueness of my lips, and a tendency to use superfluWoL. I.-3. A

ous syllables, betrayed me; and my old enemy shook me all the way back to the convent, and into bed. Fever followed, and I lay in bed all next day, receiving many visits at the door, and a few inside. One of the latter was from 'Hezoos, who returned stronger than before, and coming to the point, said that he himself was anxious to go with me, but his wife would not consent. I felt that if she had fairly taken the field against me it was all over, but told him that he had made a contract, and was already overpaid; and sent her a pair of gold earrings to keep her quiet.

For four days in succession I had a recurrence of chill and fever. Every kindness was shown me in the convent, friends visited me, and Dr. Brayley came over from Cartago to attend me, but withal I was desponding. The day fixed for setting out with Alvarado arrived. It was impossible to go; Dr. Brayley advised me that it would be unwise, while any tendency to the disease remained, to undertake it. There were six days of desert travelling to the port of San Juan, without a house on the road, but mountains to cross and rivers to ford. The whole party was to go on foot except myself; four extra men would be needed to pass my mule over some difficult places, and there was always more or less rain. San Juan was a collection of miserable shanties, and from that place it was necessary to embark in a bungo for ten or fifteen days on an unhealthy river. Besides all this, I had the alternative to return by the Cosmopolita to Zonzonate, or to go to Guatimala by land, a journey of twelve hundred miles, through a country destitute of accommodations for travellers, and dangerous from the convulsions of civil war. At night, as I lay alone in the convent, and by the light of a small AN ACCOMPLISHED VAGABOND. 371

candle saw the bats flying along the roof, I felt gloomy and would have been glad to be at home.

Still I could not bear the idea of losing all I came for. The land-route lay along the coast of the Pacific, and for three days was the same as to the port. I determined to go by land, but, by the advice of Dr. Brayley, to start in time for the vessel; and in the hope that I would not have another chill, I bought two of the best mules in San Jose, one being that on which I had ascended the Volcano of Cartago, and the other a macho, not more than half broke, but the finest animal I ever mounted.

To return to 'Hezoos. The morning after I gave him the earrings he had not come, but sent word that he had the fever and ague. The next day he had it much worse, and satisfied that I must lose him, I sent him word that if he would procure me a good substitute I would release him. This raised him from bed, and in the afternoon he came with his substitute, who had very much the air of being the first man he had picked up in the street. His dress was a pair of cotton trousers, with a shirt outside, and a high, bell-crowned, narrow-brimmed black straw hat; and all that he had in the world was on his back. His hair was cut very close except in front, where it hung in long locks over his face; in short, he was the beau ideal of a Central American loafer. I did not like his looks, but I was at the time under the influence of fever, and told him I could give him no answer. He came again the next day at a moment when I wanted some service; and by degrees, though I never hired him, he quietly engaged me as his master.

The morning before I left, Don Auguslin Gutierres called upon me, and seeing this man at the door, expressed his surprise, telling me that he was the town blackguard, a drunkard, gambler, robber, and assassin; that the first night on the road he would rob, and perhaps murder me. Shortly after Mr. Lawrence entered, who told me that he had just heard the same thing. I discharged him at once, and apparently not much to his surprise, though he still continued round the convent, as he said, in my employ. It was very important for me to set out in time for the vessel, and I had but that day to look out for another. 'Hezoos was astonished at the changes time had made in the character of his friend. He said that he had known him when a boy, and had not seen him in many years till the day he brought him to me, when he had stumbled upon him in the street. Not feeling perfectly released, after a great deal of running he brought me another, whose name was Nicolas. In any other country I should have called him a mulatto; but in Central America there are so many different shades that I am at a loss how to designate him. He was by trade a mason. 'Hezoos had encountered him at his work, and talked him into a desire to see Guatimala and Mexico, and come back as rich as himself. He presented himself just as he left his work, with his shirt-sleeves rolled up above his elbows, and his trousers above his knees: a rough diamond for a valet; but he was honest, could take care of mules, and make chocolate. I did not ask more. He was married, too; and as his wife did not interfere with me, I liked him the better for it.

In the afternoon, being the last before I started, in company with Mr. Lawrence I visited the coffee-plantations of Don Mariano Montealegre. It was a lovely situation, and with great good taste, Don Mariano lived there a great part of the year. He was at his factory,

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