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CHAPTER VI.

How to begin. —Commencement of Explorations. — Interest created by these

Ruins.—Visit from the Alcalde.—Vexatious Suspicions.—A welcome Visiter.

—Letter from General Cascara.—Buying a City.—Visit from Don Gregorio's

Family.—Distribution of Medicines Page 117

CHAPTER VH.

Survey of the Ruins.—Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo.

—Their Situation.—Their Extent,—Plan of Survey.—Pyramidal Structures.—

Rows of Death's Heads.—Remarkable Portrait.—" Idols."—Character of the

Engravings.—Ranges of Terraces.—A Portrait.—Courtyards.—Curious Altar.

—Tablets of Hieroglyphics.—Gigantic Head.—Stone Quarries.—More Appli-

cants for Medicine.—"Idols" and Altars.—Buried Image.—Material of the

Statues.—Idols originally painted.—Circular Altar.—Antiquity of Copan . 130

CHAPTER VIH.

Separation.—An Adventure.—Copan River.—Don Clementine—A W<*Miuff.—

A Supper^A Wedding Ball.—Buying a Mule.—The Sierra.—View from the

Top.—Esquipulas.—The Cura.—Hospitable Reception.—Church of Esquipu-

las.—Responsibility of the Cura.—Mountain of Quezaltapeque.—A narrow Es-

cape.—San Jacinto.—Reception by the Padre.—A Village Fete.—An Ambus-

cade.— Motagua River.—Village of San Rosalie.—A Death Scene . . 161

CHAPTER IX.

Chimalapa.—The Cabildo.—A Scene of Revelry.—Gustatoya.—A Hunt for Rob

bers.—Approach to Guatimala.—Beautiful Scenery.—Volcanoes of Agua and

Fuego.—Firs* View of the City.—Entry into the City.—First Impressions.—

The Diplomatic Residence.—Parties in Central America.—Murder of Vice-

president Flores.—Political State of Guatimala.—An embarrassing Situation.

—The Constituent Assembly.—Military Police 163

CHAPTER X.

Hacienda of Narengo.—Lazoing. — Diplomatic Correspondence. — Formulas. —

Fete of La Conception. — Taking the Black Veil. — A Countrywoman. — Re-

nouncing the World.—Fireworks, &c—Procession in honour of the Virgin.—

Another Exhibition of Fireworks.—A fiery Bull.—Insolent Soldiery . . 206

CHAPTER XL

The ProvesoT.—News of the Day, how published in Guatimala.—Visit to the

Convent of La Conception.—The Farewell of the Nun.—Carrera.—Sketch

of his Life.—The Cholera.—Insurrections.—Carrera heads the Insurgents.—

His Appearance in Guatimala.—Capture of the City.—Carrera Triumphant.—

Arrival of Morazan.—Hostilitiea.—Pursuit of Carrera.—His Defeat.—He is

again uppermost.—Interview with Carrera.—His Character . . .321

CONTENTS. yji

CHAPTER XII.

Party to Mixco.—A Scene of Pleasure.—Procession in Honour of the Patron

Saint of Mixco.—Fireworks.—A Bombardment.—Smoking Segars.—A Night-

brawl.—Suffering and Sorrow.—A Cockfight,—A Walk in the Suburbs.—Sun-

day Amusements.—Return to the City Page 251

CHAPTER XIII.

Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean.—San Pablo.—Mountain Scene-

ry.—El Rio Pensativo.—La Antigua.—Account of its Destruction.—An Octo-

genarian.—The Cathedral. — San Juan Obispo.—Santa Maria.—Volcano de

Agua.—Ascent of the Mountain.—The Crater.—A lofty Meeting-place.—The

Descent.—Return to La Antigua.—Cultivation of Cochineal.—Classic Ground.

—Ciudad Vieja.—Its Foundation.—Visit from Indians.—Departure from Ciudad

Vieja.—First Sight of the Pacific—Alotenango.—Volcan del Fuega.—Escuint-

la Sunset Scene.—Masagua.—Port of Istapa.—Arrival at the Pacific . 264

CHAPTER XIV.

The Return.—Hunt for a Mule.—Overo.—Masagua.—Escointla.—Falls of San

Pedro Martyr.—Michetoya River.—Village of San Pedro.—A Major-domo.—

San Cristoval.—Amatitan.—A roving American.—Entry into Guatimala.—Let-

ter from Mr. Catherwood.—Christmas Eve.—Arrival of Mr. Catherwood.—

Plaza de Toros.—A Bullfight-—The Theatre.—Official Business.—The Aris-

tocracy of Guatimala.—State of the Country.—Newyear's Day.—Ferocity of

Party 290

CHAPTER XV.

Hunt for a Government.—Diplomatic Difficulties.—Departure from Guatimala.

—Lake of Amatitan.—Attack of Fever and Ague.—Overo.—Istapa.—A French

Merchant Ship.—Port of Acajutla.—Illness.—Zonzonate.—The Government

found.—Visit to the Volcano of Izalco.—Course of the Eruptions.—Descent

from the Volcano 310

CHAPTER XVI.

Sickness and Mutiny.—Illness of Captain Jay.—Critical Situation.—Rough

Nursing.—A Countryman in Trouble.—Dolphins.—Succession of Volcanoes.

—Gulf of Nicoya.—Harbour of Caldera.—Another Countryman.—Another

Patient-— Hacienda of San Felippe.—Mountain of Aguacate.—"Zillenthal

Patent Self-acting Cold Amalgamation Machine."—Gold Mines.—View from

the Mountain Top 331

CHAPTER XVII.

La Garita.—Alihnela.—A friendly People.—Heredia.—Rio Segondo.—Coffee-

plantations of San Jose.—The Sacrament for the Dying.—A happy Meeting.—

Travelling Embarrassments.—Quarters in a Convent.—Senor Carillo, Chief of
State.—Vicissitudes of Fortune.—Visit to Cartago.—Tree Rios.—An unex

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