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CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Departure.-The Voyage.-Arrival at Balize.-Mixing of Colours.-Government
House.-Colonel M'Donald.-Origin of Balize.-Negro Schools.-Scene in a
Court-room.-Law without Lawyers.-The Barracks.-Excursion in a Pit-
pan.-A Beginning of Honours.-Honours accumulating.-Departure from
Balize.-Sweets of Office
CHAPTER II.
Page 9
Every one for himself.-Travellers' Tricks.-Puenta Gorda.-A Visit to the Ca-
rib Indians.-A Carib Crono—A Bantism.-Rio Dolce.-Beautiful Scenery.-
Izabal.-Reception of the Padre.-A Barber in Office.-A Band of "Invinci-
bles."-Parties in Central America.-A Compatriot.-A Grave in a Foreign
Land.-Preparations for the Passage of "the Mountain."-A Road not Macad-
amized.-Perils by the Way.-A well-spiced Lunch.-The Mountain passed
CHAPTER III.
25
A Canonigo.-How to roast a Fowl.-Extempore Shoemaking.-Motagua River.
-Beautiful Scene.-Crossing the River.-The Luxury of Water.-Primitive
Costumes.-How to make Tortillas.-Costly Timber.-Gualan.-Oppressive
Heat.-Shock of an Earthquake.-A stroll through the Town.-A troublesome
Muleteer. A Lawsuit.-Important Negotiations.-A Modern Bona Dea.-How
to gain a Husband.-A Kingdom of Flora.-Zacapa.-Making free with a
Host
. 51
CHAPTER IV.
Purchasing a Bridle.-A School and its Regulations.-Conversation with an In-
dian.-Spanish Translation of the "Spy."-Chiquimula.-A Church in Ruins.
-A Veteran of the French Empire.-St. Stephanos.-A Land of Mountains,—
An Affair with a Muleteer.-A deserted Village.-A rude Assault.-Arrest.—
Imprisonment.-Release
. 70
CHAPTER V.
An Indian Funeral.-Copan River.-Woman's Kindness.-Hacienda of San An-
tonio.-Strange Customs.-A Mountain of Aloes.-The State of Honduras.
-Village of Copan.-An ungracious Host.-Wall of Copan.-History of Co-
pan.-First View of the Ruins.-Vain Speculations.-Applications for Medi-
eine.-Search for an Abode.-A Sick Woman.-Plagues of a Muleteer.--An
unpleasant Situation.-A Thunder Storm.-Thoughts of buying Copan . 86
CHAPTER VI.
How to begin. Commencement of Explorations. -Interest created by these
Ruins.-Visit from the Alcalde.-Vexatious Suspicions.-A welcome Visiter.
-Letter from General Cascara.-Buying a City.-Visit from Don Gregorio's
Family.-Distribution of Medicines .
CHAPTER VII.
.
Page 117
Survey of the Ruins.-Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo.
-Their Situation.-Their Extent.-Plan of Survey.-Pyramidal Structures.-
Rows of Death's Heads.-Remarkable Portrait.-" Idols."-Character of the
Engravings.-Ranges of Terraces.-A Portrait.-Courtyards.-Curious Altar.
-Tablets of Hieroglyphics.-Gigantic Head.-Stone Quarries.-More Appli-
cants for Medicine." Idols" and Altars.-Buried Image.-Material of the
Statues.-Idols originally painted.-Circular Altar.-Antiquity of Copan . 130
CHAPTER VIII.
Separation. An Adventure.-Copan River.-Don Clementino.-A Wedding.~
A Supper A Wedding Ball.-Buying a Mule.-The Sierra.-View from the
Top.-Esquipulas.-The Cura.-Hospitable Reception.-Church of Esquipu-
las.-Responsibility of the Cura.-Mountain of Quezaltapeque.-A narrow Es-
cape.-San Jacinto.-Reception by the Padre.-A Village Fête.-An Ambus-
cade.-Motagua River.-Village of San Rosalie.-A Death Scene .
CHAPTER IX.
161
Chimalapa.-The Cabildo.-A Scene of Revelry.-Gustatoya.-A Hunt for Rob
bers.-Approach to Guatimala.-Beautiful Scenery.-Volcanoes of Agua and
Fuego.-First View of the City.-Entry into the City.-First Impressions.-
The Diplomatic Residence.-Parties in Central America.-Murder of Vice-
president Flores.-Political State of Guatimala.—An embarrassing Situation.
-The Constituent Assembly.-Military Police
CHAPTER X.
. 183
Hacienda of Narengo.-Lazoing. - Diplomatic Correspondence. - Formulas. —
Fête of La Concepcion. - Taking the Black Veil. —A Countrywoman. - Re-
nouncing the World.-Fireworks, &c.-Procession in honour of the Virgin.-
Another Exhibition of Fireworks.-A fiery Bull.-Insolent Soldiery.
CHAPTER XI.
206
The Provesor.-News of the Day, how published in Guatimala.-Visit to the
Convent of La Concepcion.-The Farewell of the Nun.-Carrera.-Sketch
of his Life.-The Cholera.-Insurrections.-Carrera heads the Insurgents.—
His Appearance in Guatimala.-Capture of the City.-Carrera Triumphant.-
Arrival of Morazan.-Hostilities.-Pursuit of Carrera.-His Defeat.-He is
again uppermost.-Interview with Carrera.-His Character .221
Party to Mixco.-A Scene of Pleasure.-Procession in Honour of the Patron
Saint of Mixco.-Fireworks.-A Bombardment.-Smoking Segars.-A Night-
brawl.-Suffering and Sorrow.-A Cockfight.-A Walk in the Suburbs.-Sun-
day Amusements.-Return to the City
Page 251
CHAPTER XIII.
Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean.-San Pablo.-Mountain Scene.
ry.-El Rio Pensativo.-La Antigua.-Account of its Destruction.-An Octo-
genarian.The Cathedral.- San Juan Obispo.-Santa Maria.-Volcano de
Agua.-Ascent of the Mountain.-The Crater.-A lofty Meeting-place.-The
Descent.- Return to La Antigua.-Cultivation of Cochineal.-Classic Ground.
-Ciudad Vieja.-Its Foundation.-Visit from Indians.-Departure from Ciudad
Vieja. First Sight of the Pacific.-Alotenango.-Volcan del Fuega.-Escuint-
la. Sunset Scene.-Masagua.-Port of Istapa.-Arrival at the Pacific
CHAPTER XIV.
. 264
The Return.-Hunt for a Mule.-Overo.-Masagua.-Escuintla.-Falls of San
Pedro Martyr.-Michetoya River.-Village of San Pedro.-A Major-domo.-.
San Cristoval.-Amatitan.-A roving American.-Entry into Guatimala.-Let-
ter from Mr. Catherwood.-Christmas Eve.-Arrival of Mr. Catherwood.-
Plaza de Toros.-A Bullfight.-The Theatre.-Official Business.-The Aris-
tocracy of Guatimala.-State of the Country.--Newyear's Day.-Ferocity of
Party .
CHAPTER XV.
290
Hunt for a Government.-Diplomatic Difficulties.-Departure from Guatimala.
-Lake of Amatitan.-Attack of Fever and Ague.-Overo.-Istapa.-A French
Merchant Ship.-Port of Acajutla.-Illness.-Zonzonate.-The Government
found.-Visit to the Volcano of Izalco.-Course of the Eruptions.-Descent
from the Volcano
310
CHAPTER XVI.
Sickness and Mutiny.-Illness of Captain Jay.-Critical Situation.-Rough
Nursing.-A Countryman in Trouble.-Dolphins.-Succession of Volcanoes.
-Gulf of Nicoya.-Harbour of Caldera.-Another Countryman.-Another
Patient. Hacienda of San Felippe.-Mountain of Aguacate.-"Zillenthal
Patent Self-acting Cold Amalgamation Machine."-Gold Mines.-View from
the Mountain Top 331
CHAPTER XVII.
La Garita.-Alihuela.--A friendly People.-Heredia.-Rio Segondo.--Coffee-
plantations of San José.-The Sacrament for the Dying.-A happy Meeting.—
Travelling Embarrassments.-Quarters in a Convent.-Señor Carillo, Chief of
State.-Vicissitudes of Fortune.-Visit to Cartago.-Tres Rios.-An unex
pected Meeting.-Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago.-The Crater.-View of
the two Seas.-Descent.-Stroll through Cartago.-A Burial.-Another at-
tack of Fever and Ague.-A Vagabond.—Cultivation of Coffee
CHAPTER XVIII.
Page 349
Departure for Guatimala.-Esparza.-Town of Costa Rica.-The Barranca.-
History of a Countryman.-Wild Scenery.-Hacienda of Aranjuez.—River
Lagartos.-Cerros of Collito.-Herds of Deer.-Santa Rosa.-Don Juan José
Bonilla.- An Earthquake. -A Cattle Farm. - Bagases. - Guanacaste. - An
agreeable Welcome.-Belle of Guanacaste.-Pleasant Lodgings.-Cordilleras.
-Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi.-Hacienda of San Teresa.-Sunset View.
-The Pacific again 374
CHAPTER XIX.
The Flores.-The San Juan.-Nature's Solitude.-Primitive Cookery.- Harbour
of San Juan.-Route of the Great Canal to connect the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans.-Nicaragua.-Survey for the Canal.-Lake of Nicaragua.-Plan of
the Canal.-Lockage.-Estimate of Cost.-Former Efforts to construct the
Canal.-Its Advantages.-Central American Hospitality.-Tierra Caliente.-
Horrors of Civil War.
. 396
VOL. I.-B