Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan - Stephens - Google Böcker

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THE FIRST VOLUME.

Departure.-The Voyage.-Arrival at Balize.-Mixing of Colours.-Government

House.-Colonel M'Donald.-Origin of Balize.-Negro Schools.-Scene in a

Court-room.-Law without Lawyers.-The Barracks.-Excursion in a Pit-

pan.-A Beginning of Honours.-Honours accumulating.-Departure from

Balize.-Sweets of Office

Every one for himself.-Travellers' Tricks.-Puenta Gorda.-A Visit to the Ca-

rib Indians.-A Carib Crono—A Bantism.-Rio Dolce.-Beautiful Scenery.-

Izabal.-Reception of the Padre.-A Barber in Office.-A Band of "Invinci-

bles."-Parties in Central America.-A Compatriot.-A Grave in a Foreign

Land.-Preparations for the Passage of "the Mountain."-A Road not Macad-

amized.-Perils by the Way.-A well-spiced Lunch.-The Mountain passed

A Canonigo.-How to roast a Fowl.-Extempore Shoemaking.-Motagua River.

-Beautiful Scene.-Crossing the River.-The Luxury of Water.-Primitive

Costumes.-How to make Tortillas.-Costly Timber.-Gualan.-Oppressive

Heat.-Shock of an Earthquake.-A stroll through the Town.-A troublesome

Muleteer. A Lawsuit.-Important Negotiations.-A Modern Bona Dea.-How

to gain a Husband.-A Kingdom of Flora.-Zacapa.-Making free with a

Purchasing a Bridle.-A School and its Regulations.-Conversation with an In-

dian.-Spanish Translation of the "Spy."-Chiquimula.-A Church in Ruins.

-A Veteran of the French Empire.-St. Stephanos.-A Land of Mountains,—

An Affair with a Muleteer.-A deserted Village.-A rude Assault.-Arrest.—

Imprisonment.-Release

An Indian Funeral.-Copan River.-Woman's Kindness.-Hacienda of San An-

tonio.-Strange Customs.-A Mountain of Aloes.-The State of Honduras.

-Village of Copan.-An ungracious Host.-Wall of Copan.-History of Co-

pan.-First View of the Ruins.-Vain Speculations.-Applications for Medi-

eine.-Search for an Abode.-A Sick Woman.-Plagues of a Muleteer.--An

unpleasant Situation.-A Thunder Storm.-Thoughts of buying Copan . 86

How to begin. Commencement of Explorations. -Interest created by these

Ruins.-Visit from the Alcalde.-Vexatious Suspicions.-A welcome Visiter.

-Letter from General Cascara.-Buying a City.-Visit from Don Gregorio's

Family.-Distribution of Medicines .

Survey of the Ruins.-Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo.

-Their Situation.-Their Extent.-Plan of Survey.-Pyramidal Structures.-

Rows of Death's Heads.-Remarkable Portrait.-" Idols."-Character of the

Engravings.-Ranges of Terraces.-A Portrait.-Courtyards.-Curious Altar.

-Tablets of Hieroglyphics.-Gigantic Head.-Stone Quarries.-More Appli-

cants for Medicine." Idols" and Altars.-Buried Image.-Material of the

Statues.-Idols originally painted.-Circular Altar.-Antiquity of Copan . 130

Separation. An Adventure.-Copan River.-Don Clementino.-A Wedding.~

A Supper A Wedding Ball.-Buying a Mule.-The Sierra.-View from the

Top.-Esquipulas.-The Cura.-Hospitable Reception.-Church of Esquipu-

las.-Responsibility of the Cura.-Mountain of Quezaltapeque.-A narrow Es-

cape.-San Jacinto.-Reception by the Padre.-A Village Fête.-An Ambus-

cade.-Motagua River.-Village of San Rosalie.-A Death Scene .

Chimalapa.-The Cabildo.-A Scene of Revelry.-Gustatoya.-A Hunt for Rob

bers.-Approach to Guatimala.-Beautiful Scenery.-Volcanoes of Agua and

Fuego.-First View of the City.-Entry into the City.-First Impressions.-

The Diplomatic Residence.-Parties in Central America.-Murder of Vice-

president Flores.-Political State of Guatimala.—An embarrassing Situation.

-The Constituent Assembly.-Military Police

Hacienda of Narengo.-Lazoing. - Diplomatic Correspondence. - Formulas. —

Fête of La Concepcion. - Taking the Black Veil. —A Countrywoman. - Re-

nouncing the World.-Fireworks, &c.-Procession in honour of the Virgin.-

Another Exhibition of Fireworks.-A fiery Bull.-Insolent Soldiery.

The Provesor.-News of the Day, how published in Guatimala.-Visit to the

Convent of La Concepcion.-The Farewell of the Nun.-Carrera.-Sketch

of his Life.-The Cholera.-Insurrections.-Carrera heads the Insurgents.—

His Appearance in Guatimala.-Capture of the City.-Carrera Triumphant.-

Arrival of Morazan.-Hostilities.-Pursuit of Carrera.-His Defeat.-He is

again uppermost.-Interview with Carrera.-His Character
.221

Party to Mixco.-A Scene of Pleasure.-Procession in Honour of the Patron

Saint of Mixco.-Fireworks.-A Bombardment.-Smoking Segars.-A Night-

brawl.-Suffering and Sorrow.-A Cockfight.-A Walk in the Suburbs.-Sun-

day Amusements.-Return to the City

Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean.-San Pablo.-Mountain Scene.

ry.-El Rio Pensativo.-La Antigua.-Account of its Destruction.-An Octo-

genarian.The Cathedral.- San Juan Obispo.-Santa Maria.-Volcano de

Agua.-Ascent of the Mountain.-The Crater.-A lofty Meeting-place.-The

Descent.- Return to La Antigua.-Cultivation of Cochineal.-Classic Ground.

-Ciudad Vieja.-Its Foundation.-Visit from Indians.-Departure from Ciudad

Vieja. First Sight of the Pacific.-Alotenango.-Volcan del Fuega.-Escuint-

la. Sunset Scene.-Masagua.-Port of Istapa.-Arrival at the Pacific

The Return.-Hunt for a Mule.-Overo.-Masagua.-Escuintla.-Falls of San

Pedro Martyr.-Michetoya River.-Village of San Pedro.-A Major-domo.-.

San Cristoval.-Amatitan.-A roving American.-Entry into Guatimala.-Let-

ter from Mr. Catherwood.-Christmas Eve.-Arrival of Mr. Catherwood.-

Plaza de Toros.-A Bullfight.-The Theatre.-Official Business.-The Aris-

tocracy of Guatimala.-State of the Country.--Newyear's Day.-Ferocity of

Hunt for a Government.-Diplomatic Difficulties.-Departure from Guatimala.

-Lake of Amatitan.-Attack of Fever and Ague.-Overo.-Istapa.-A French

Merchant Ship.-Port of Acajutla.-Illness.-Zonzonate.-The Government

found.-Visit to the Volcano of Izalco.-Course of the Eruptions.-Descent

from the Volcano

Sickness and Mutiny.-Illness of Captain Jay.-Critical Situation.-Rough

Nursing.-A Countryman in Trouble.-Dolphins.-Succession of Volcanoes.

-Gulf of Nicoya.-Harbour of Caldera.-Another Countryman.-Another

Patient. Hacienda of San Felippe.-Mountain of Aguacate.-"Zillenthal

Patent Self-acting Cold Amalgamation Machine."-Gold Mines.-View from

the Mountain Top
331

La Garita.-Alihuela.--A friendly People.-Heredia.-Rio Segondo.--Coffee-

plantations of San José.-The Sacrament for the Dying.-A happy Meeting.—

Travelling Embarrassments.-Quarters in a Convent.-Señor Carillo, Chief of

State.-Vicissitudes of Fortune.-Visit to Cartago.-Tres Rios.-An unex

pected Meeting.-Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago.-The Crater.-View of

the two Seas.-Descent.-Stroll through Cartago.-A Burial.-Another at-

tack of Fever and Ague.-A Vagabond.—Cultivation of Coffee

Departure for Guatimala.-Esparza.-Town of Costa Rica.-The Barranca.-

History of a Countryman.-Wild Scenery.-Hacienda of Aranjuez.—River

Lagartos.-Cerros of Collito.-Herds of Deer.-Santa Rosa.-Don Juan José

Bonilla.- An Earthquake. -A Cattle Farm. - Bagases. - Guanacaste. - An

agreeable Welcome.-Belle of Guanacaste.-Pleasant Lodgings.-Cordilleras.

-Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi.-Hacienda of San Teresa.-Sunset View.

-The Pacific again
374

The Flores.-The San Juan.-Nature's Solitude.-Primitive Cookery.- Harbour

of San Juan.-Route of the Great Canal to connect the Atlantic and Pacific

Oceans.-Nicaragua.-Survey for the Canal.-Lake of Nicaragua.-Plan of

the Canal.-Lockage.-Estimate of Cost.-Former Efforts to construct the

Canal.-Its Advantages.-Central American Hospitality.-Tierra Caliente.-

Horrors of Civil War.

VOL. I.-B

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