separated however from the main land only during the inundation. As the kandjia approached the shore, we heard the sound of the Nubian tambourine, accompanied, at intervals, by a shrill, whistling noise, and loud bursts of merriment. Concluding, therefore, that all the rank and fashion of the neighbourhood must be assembled under some tree, or round a fire, we were desirous of witnessing, before our departure, the saltatorial performances of the Nubian beauties. But as our sudden appearance would certainly put them all to flight, our herald, Bakhid, was sent forward with the olive branch to propose a truce; and at his intercession they consented to our beholding their revelry. We found the party assembled on a small open space between the rocks at the foot of the mountains, partly shaded by tall trees; the moon supplying the place of lamps and tapers. The dancers consisted of a youthful bride and her sister, whose relations and neighbours were met to celebrate with dances and songs the approaching marriage. The bride was about fourteen years old, her sister about twelve; and, contrary to what we had observed at Korti, both were clothed from head to foot. Nothing could be more different from the impudent movements of the Almé, than their modest and not ungraceful manner of dancing; the slow step, and easy turns of which, somewhat resembled a quadrille. The rest of the company, ranged in a circle round the dancers, saluted and made room for us on our approach. They consisted of men and women; some of the latter of extraordinary stature, and half naked,

with children at the breast. Their only music consisted of the tambourine, beaten by a man; but the whole circle, clapping their hands, and bending their knees, kept time with the instrument; while the women at intervals uttered a strange tremulous shriek, called by the Arabs zagharit*—somewhat resembling the sharp notes of the fife, but so loud that it seemed to pierce the brain. In producing this extraordinary noise, the tongue is rolled in the mouth, while the voice, thus modulated, is raised to a higher pitch than I had previously conceived possible; and when a number of persons join together in this infernal concert, the shriek is most terrific.t Our Arabs, never backward when mirth and laughter were on foot, immediately fell into the circle, shouting, clapping hands, and bending the knee with the rest; and the revellers, thus reinforced, proceeded with redoubled vigour. Song after song was sung,

* Mengin, who was accustomed to these sounds, describes them as, "Roulemens précipités de la langue, par lesquels les femmes donnent des intonations élevées qui expriment, suivant les modulations, la joie ou la douleur. On les entend dans les fêtes de même que dans les pompes funèbres.” - Hist. de l'Egypte, &c. ii. 305.

+ Dr. Buchanan, in his Christian Researches, speaks of a similar sound among the circumstances attending the orgies of Jaggannat❜h. "And the multitude again sent forth a voice like the sound of a great thunder. - But the voices I now heard, were not those of melody or joyful acclamation; for there is no harmony in the praise of Moloch's worshippers. Their number, indeed, brought to my mind the countless multitude of the Revelation; but their voices gave no tuneful hosanna or hallelujah ; but rather a yell of approbation, united with a kind of hissing noise. I was at a loss how to account for this latter noise, until I was directed to notice the women; who emitted a sound like that of whistling, with the lips circular and the tongue vibrating; as if a serpent would speak by their organs, uttering human sounds." Page 25.

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the musician thumped the tambourine, the dancers quickened their pace, while shouts, jesting, and laughter mingled with the clapping, the singing, and the drumming; so that a stranger, coming unawares upon the scene, would have taken us for a group of infernal spirits, performing their gambols in the wilderness. The moon, then near the full, yielded a brilliant light, silvering the surface of the river, and casting a flood of splendour over the rocks and sands. But the beauties of the scene were nothing, viewed apart from the swarthy assembly, who, whatever cares or troubles they might have known, had now cast them to the winds. Joy presided over the moment. Nor did they seem, like the duller Egyptians of old, to require the sight of a mimic corpse to enforce the wisdom of enjoying the present hour. This spectacle detained us longer than we had anticipated; but at length it became necessary to depart, though not without adding a few piastres to the fortune of the bride.

CCCXC. On returning to the kandjia, we threw open our windows to enjoy the scenery. Never did the Nile appear so beautiful. Glittering like molten silver beneath the moon, it seemed to stretch away interminably towards the west, among numerous islands and steep pyramidal rocks, which, rising to a great height, threw their mingling shadows over its calm surface, concealing its extent, and creating the appearance of a vast lake. Nothing in all Switzerland, on which at the moment my thoughts were

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dwelling, could exceed in grandeur or beauty this magnificent reach of the Nile; which seemed to realise all that poetry has feigned of fairy-land,- a paradise of rocks and waters, sprinkled with the splendid vegetation of the south, wrapped in unbroken silence, and lighted up by a moon and stars of inexpressible brightness. I lost sight with regret of its unrivalled beauties, escaping one after another from the eye, as the boat glided rapidly down the stream, through the same splendid scenery, all the way to Phila, where we arrived late in the night.

CCCXCI. Mooring, as on the former occasion, close under Pharaoh's Bed, we immediately landed, to enjoy the beauties of the island. Travelling is certainly attended by many pleasures; but among the calmest and purest it can furnish, I would enumerate the prospect of Phila by moonlight. The same objects that wear the appearance of monotony in description, maintain an untiring interest in the arrangement of Nature-so superior is the cunning of her hand! Here were the same rocks, the same river, the same moon and sky, which an hour before had so strongly affected our imagination: but what a novel aspect they now wore, and what numerous accessaries had crept in, to give a new character, and additional splendour to the landscape! Art had here laboured, and not in vain, to render nature itself more picturesque. Propylæa, obelisks, long colonnades, innumerable figures of gods, reflected from the surrounding waters, and touched with soft light

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by the moon, divided our admiration with the giant crags and distant desert, encompassing a large portion of the scene like a cloud; while the only sound heard was the sullen monotonous roar of the distant cataract. Standing on the summit of the Great Temple, whence the prospect is replete with grandeur, I suffered my imagination to wander back to past ages; when the roof now under my feet had echoed to the yells of pagan orgies, while the whole island and sacred stream were covered with priestly worshippers, engaged in sanguinary or obscene rites, suggested by irregular passions, unmindful or ignorant of the true God, and the pure worship which he requires. This was the most holy spot in the dominions of Egypt, where their mythological legends placed the tomb of Osiris; and when they desired to give peculiar emphasis and solemnity to an oath, they swore by Him who slept in Phila.

CCCXCII. Let us descend into the vaults of the temple. Kindling a taper, and casting a hurried glance over the sekos, we proceeded to explore those tomblike recesses and subterranean passages, the intention and use of which defeat conjecture. The most remarkable of these cells we discovered in the thickness of the eastern wall. Its mouth resembled that of a mummy pit; but, the depth not being too great, we descended one after another; and proceeding in a northerly direction, arrived in a short time at the termination of the passage, where our progress appeared to be stopped. On more narrowly examining