bouillabaisse steaming in front of us, when Karyfan turned to the waiter, and inquired for a friend of his, well known at the hotel. The gentleman left us this very morning, sir, for St. Germain,' said François; the Fête des Loges begins to-morrow, and all Paris I will be there of course.' 'Shall we go?' said Keryfan; it's worth seeing, that fête in the 'forest; and the haras will keep for another day.' 'With all my heart,' I replied, forgetting for the moment that the next day was Sunday; for, although no one will suspect me of asceticism, I trust I feel a becoming reverence for the sabbath-day; and the first lesson I mean to teach my children, when I have them, will be to note the national penalties paid by the French from time to time, for, I believe, their heinous disregard and desecration of God's day of rest. Nevertheless, in spite of my qualms, I went to the fête; and now you shall hear what I saw there. The country gentlemen, however, who in former days depended on such antiquated authorities as Burn, Blackstone, and Hume, but now consult Baily' alone on all matters connected with forest laws and his special department of history, will expect a few explanatory words on the Fête des Loges: and that they may not be disappointed, here goes. In the very heart of the Forest of St. Germain, which at the present time covers an area of at least 10,000 acres, stands the Maison Royale des Loges, now a charitable institution in which the daughters of officers of the Legion of Honour are received and liberally educated. Its original foundation, however, in 1021, is due to Robert, the son of Robert the Pious, who first built a hunting-box and then an Oratoire, which last he dedicated to St. Fiacre, an Irish hermit, in whose honour the Fête des Loges is still supposed to be held. Then Francis I. built a hornery (la Muette) and a set of kennels in the neighbourhood, and brought his brilliant court, consisting chiefly of ladies distinguished for their wit and beauty, to join him in the chase. After him came his son Henry II., who, with Diana of Poictiers at his side, passed the happiest days of his life in this forest. Still may be seen, towering above the landscape, the giant oak planted by her witching hand; and under its wide-spreading branches, on the occasion of the Fête des Loges, may still be seen the softest brunettes that eye ever looked upon, and as fair wild flowers as the hand of man could wish to cull. Even the Grand Monarque, with his flowing locks, and Madame de Maintenon at his back, looked forward to the outing' at the Fête des Loges as the Derby day of the year, and forgot, for the time, the stately and punctilious etiquette to which he was so great a slave. But my story affects the present rather than the past-rustling silk, and not the silent shroud. Just imagine Greenwich or Bartlemy Fair, with all its broad humours, transferred bodily into the centre of Savernake Forest: to this add a slice from the hill on a Derby day, and a corner from Cremorne on the dewy eve of a summer's night, and the reader will have some notion of this ancient fête champêtre as it is celebrated at the present time. About twenty thousand people in holiday attire, all bent upon pleasure, but certainly not all possessing frugal minds, were assembled together under the greenwood tree on this festive occasion. The Faubourgs of St. Honoré contributed their votaries not less than those of St. Denis; and when night drew near, as may be supposed, many a poor 'Lambert' was lost in the mazes of that labyrinthian land. In the very centre of a town of booths stood Diane's Oak, welcoming with outstretched arms the gay assemblage that clustered in its shade, and on every side divergent streets, each docketed with a significant name, and swarming with novelties, presented so many attractions that I found it impossible to keep my money quiet in my pocket. Gambling-booths of every description-restaurateurs' tents, with kitchens en plein vent--balls, theatres, baladins-and Russian railways, in the carriages of which the adventurous riders travelled with lightning speed from the top of one tree to that of another, contrasted strangely with the dark, sombre forest in which these orgies were held. But, original and curious as the scene is by day, it is incomparably more so by night; ten thousand lamps of varied hue twinkle like stars from the surrounding trees; music and dancing, camp-fires, revellings and pic-nics, organized without the aid of chaperones, and preferring the quiet of the forest to the noise and glare of the public tents, combine to render this fête the most picturesque as it is the most popular in France. Standing a short distance off from a party of dancers, amongst whom the mirth and fun grew fast and furious,' Tam O'Shanter's 'unco sight' came to my recollection : Where, glimmering through the groaning trees, Through ilka bore the beams were glancing, But, as there was no cutty sark' amongst them, I did not, like that hero, lose my reason, and rashly disturb the festive scene. Oh! if, like the whispering reeds in the fable, the trees of that forest could only find their tongues, there is scarcely one of them that could not tell us a strange story in connection with the Fête des Loges. 'Frank,' said Keryfan, appearing suddenly at my elbow, and disturbing me in my reverie, come and see the steeple-chase; if they would only enter a pig, the thing would be perfect; but, as it is, it will amuse you.' So, taking his arm, we trotted off to the tent of the 'Singes et chiens C savants,' and fifty centimes each admitted us at once to the Grand Stand. But how shall I describe the scratch pack that competed for the prize? A sturdy billygoat and five dogs, whose heterogeneous appearance was all-sufficient to disqualify them for even a wooden spoon at Islington, came to the post; and on their backs, sticking to them like grim Death, rode so many monkeys, each one the very impersonation of a man clinging to his last plank for life. A handicap race, evidently,' said I, as I observed the dogs. weighted with some degree of fairness: a dog between a lurcher and a mastiff, for instance, was mounted by a monkey, weighing, tail and all, at least two stone; and a gaunt Picardy sheep-dog by another, almost equally large; whereas the weedy ones carried the featherweights. The Admiral could scarcely have done it better!' I shouted, as a capital neck-and-neck race, in which the lurcher took the jumps in his stride, and won by a nose, created intense excitement among the crowd. The jockey of the billygoat, riding in Lord Exeter's stripes, gave his animal but a poor chance: not liking the proximity of the horns, he sat like a sandboy across the loins, taking his rein in one hand and the goat's tail in the other; then he held him like a vice. So, owing to the bad hands of his rider, the goat came in last. When the cheering had ceased Keryfan observed that the dogs' coats had all been clipped; but he did not think their condition improved by it. They certainly never came out of Scott's hands,' I replied, or 'their skins would be in better form.' Ah! he wrote " Guy Mannering" and "Rob Roy," didn't he? 'I can fancy his knowing everything that concerns a dog.' Not the same, Keryfan, exactly; I alluded to John Scott, the prince of trainers, and the best judge of condition in Europe. 'Your friend was a bookmaker in another line.' While amusements of every description were thus occupying the attention of all, a small band of English artists were driving a quiet but busy trade among the unsuspecting crowd; and, if report speak truth, the conveyance of property to a large amount was speedily and noiselessly effected by their practised hands. At the same time, in the remote parts of the forest a few hardy Braconniers were taking advantage of the festivities, and reaping a fine harvest among the well-fed but unprotected game abounding in that district. Tell it not in Gath how the ravens sustained me during my visit to St. Germain. Suffice it to say, if Robin Hood had been my forester I could not have fared better. The venison cutlets smacked of imperial flavour, and the pheasant salmi was such as to entitle the chef at the François Ier to the highest distinction Murray could bestow on him. Then, shall I tell of the Chambertin, bottled in the days of Plancus, that flowed so freely in honour of St. Fiacre? Anacreon would have sung its praise in a sweet ode: all I can say is, that we did it ample justice. Keryfan was off next day for Brittany; but, as the chestnuts are now beginning to fall, I mean to wait till the boars are fat before I revisit that Celtic land. So hear again from me if I cross any game that is likely to interest your country friends. FRANK FEATHERSTONE. you may A HUNTING EXPEDITION TO THE SOURCE OF THE GANGES AND THE GREAT GLACIERS OF RUDRU HIMALEH. BY THE AUTHOR OF THE HUNTING GROUNDS OF THE OLD WORLD.' CHAPTER I. 'My joy was in the wilderness to breathe Doon Shooting.-An Indian Pic-nic.-The Dripping Well of Sansa-Dharna.— DEHRA being so central is the best head-quarters for Doonshooting, and during our sojourn there we made several expeditions to different parts of the valley, enjoying first-rate sport, and rarely meeting with blank days. Elephant, however, were not so numerous as might have been expected from the likely appearance of the forest, having been driven into the more remote parts by the periodical burning of the Doon grass, which takes place in January and February. Notwithstanding we explored all their most favourite haunts, we only twice came across them, once near Jobrawallah, on the banks of the Sooswa river, and again in the Sankote forest, when on both occasions we killed. We also had some excellent tiger-shooting in different parts of the Doon and amongst the Sewalic Hills, but as these hunts afforded no incidents out of the common, I shall not enter into any description of them. My companion, Fred, who was quite a ladies' man, and fond of what on the Hills is termed 'peacocking,' or paying morning visits and discussing the weather, had a most extensive female acquaintance, and he and sundry others of his kidney managed to get up an improptu pic-nic to the Dripping Well of Sansa-Dharna, which was attended by all the reigning spinsters and grass-widows of the station. The former, it was currently reported, had each a certain set-speech for juwabing' (literally, giving an answer to) aspirants for connubial bliss, it being no uncommon event in these parts for a belle to have the question popped, on an average, some seven times per week, or to receive half a score similar honours the morning after a club-ball or the bachelors' bi-weekly reunion-party. On the appointed morning we all met at the house of one of the principal personages of the station at daybreak, and, after a déjeuner à la fourchette, prepared for a start. Forming an imposing cavalcade of gaily-caparisoned elephants, horsemen, amazons, palanquins, tonjons, and jampanees, we passed through the small village of Nagul, and wound along the banks of the river Soane by a rocky and rather precipitous path, which somewhat tried the nerves of the female equestrians, and gave ample opportunity for displays of gallantry, each fair one being attended by one or more cavaliers servante. After a ride of about three hours we arrived at the dripping well, which is close to a bend in the river, and here we found a couple of tents pitched, whilst hard by on a green knoll, shaded by a giant peepul-tree, was spread a tablecloth covered with all the necessary accessories for invigorating the system. In a few moments elephants and horses were picketed under the trees round about, the palanquins, &c., drawn up in rows, and the party proceeded to examine this strange natural phenomenon, which is caused by a small stream flowing over a high shelving rock, about sixty paces in length, of so porous a nature as to allow the water to filter through and fall in a perpetual shower. The under face of the rock is covered with stalactites, and in a natural basin below the water is collected, which the doctor discovered to be strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. On the right of the rock is a large natural grotto filled with water to the depth of two feet, and here the stalactites were very beautiful, assuming the appearance of pillars and quaint gothic arches supporting the roof. The assembly' sounding on a keybugle stopped several learned dissertations and explanatory theories on this natural shower-bath, to the great relief, I imagined, of the ladies, who good-temperedly were trying to look 'patient under the infliction, and all met round the spread,' where, having disposed of our persons upon mats and carpets, in the style we are told the ancient Romans adopted under similar circumstances, we did ample justice to our good cheer, which was seasoned with appetite, joviality, and harmony. Sallies of wit flowed with the champagne and sparkling Moselle, calling forth many a smart repartee from the gentler sex; jest followed jest, and never had the arches of the old forest rung with such peals of merry laughter, or echoed such wild shouts of revelry. Songs, sentimental and comic, succeeded, and one fair girl warbled some of those touching melodies of auld lang syne with a feeling and expression that went home to every heart, recalling bygone scenes to mind, awakening recollections that for years had slept, and causing tears to glisten in the eye of more than one rough weather-beaten veteran. After a time a dance was proposed, and the forethought of our master of the ceremonies now showed itself conspicuous, for a band had been provided, and although a gentleman (whom it was presumed had corns, or whose parents had not paid the extra twopence for accomplishments) was heard to observe that there was not plain enough to swing a cat round, waltzes, quadrilles, polkas, and country-dances followed each other in rapid succession, which again gave place to sundry games, such as blind-man's buff, forfeits, and hunt the slipper, the old hands enjoying the fun as much as the young ones. Whilst we were all sitting in a circle engaged in the latter amusement, a servant, having intense excitement depicted in his countenance, came up with, the intelligence that a large bear had just been seen making his way |