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LETTER II.

TO ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT.

Bombay: the town and harbour. Native town.

Bazars.

Merchants and artizans.- Colabah.-Domestic establishments of Englishmen of distinction.-Excursions in the environs and to Malabar Point and Pareil.— Burning the dead.— The Parsees.- Gymnastic exercises of the Indians and their Jugglers.-Journey to Poonah. The chain of Ghauts.Poonah.- Festivities of the natives in honour of the governor. - Bayaderes.- Mode of life of the English.- Parbutty and the palace of the Peishwa.—Return to Bombay.—The rainy season. Preparations for our journey to Kurrachee.Establishment of the governor.

Bombay, August 3d, 1842. HAVING accompanied me till my arrival in Bombay, permit me to give you some account of this delightful island, before I proceed to relate any particulars of my diversified mode of life within the last few weeks.

At the foot of the Western Ghauts lies a small group of islands, of which Bombay is the most important. It is situated in 18° 58' N. L., and 72° 55' E. L. from Greenwich, and is connected on its northern side by an arched stone bridge with Salsette, the larger island. It is surrounded by several others of a lofty rocky character, the most remarkable of which is Elephanta, famed for its ancient colossal Hindoo or Buddah temple, hewn in the solid rock. Back bay, as it is called, is formed by two peninsulas which

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stretch far into the sea: the northern of these is the rocky promontory of Malabar Point, and the southern, the narrow Colabah, is of coral formation, and scarcely rises above the surface of the water. The harbour is spacious, and is situated between Colabah, Bombay, and Salsette; four miles from its eastern extremity is Butcher's Island, which is apparently connected with Elephanta, and a little to the south lies Caranja, five miles to the south-west of which, between Toll Point and Colabah, is the entrance into the harbour of Bombay. The lighthouse stands upon a rock 150 feet above the level of the sea, at the extreme point of Colabah. The harbour is defended by numerous batteries, which would render a hostile landing next to impossible. The coast is every where adorned with palm-trees, and I was especially struck with the beauties of the slender, lofty cocoa palm, which lifts its graceful crown towards the skies.

Bombay is divided into two towns, one lying next to the sea, and surrounded by the fortifications, and the other called the Black or Native town, situated to the west, and built upon an alluvial soil. The streets of the former are narrow, the houses three stories high, and built of wood or brick; their external appearance is not unlike that of the houses in the towns of Southern Italy. They all have verandahs which rise one above the other, and are supported by wooden pillars, and small bow windows, which are adorned with neat trellis-work. In the lower part of the town are the bazars, which are narrow and dirty, and are chiefly kept by the Parsees. The only remarkable building in Bombay is the Governmenthouse; it has a fine colonnade, and in front of it is

a square planted with trees, with a fountain rising in the centre. It comprehends the several government offices, a library, and a spacious saloon, adorned with marble statues of the excellent Mountstuart Elphinstone, and Sir John Malcolm. Adjoining this building are the extensive arsenals and docks. The fleet of Bombay consists of 22 war-steamers, six of which are armed for service; there are also 18 sailing vessels, 11 of which carry 98 guns; three of these are sloops, four brigs, four schooners, and four cutters ; there are besides 11 iron steam-boats for the navigation of the Indus and the Euphrates. I must not forget to mention that a school-house has been recently erected, and I am happy to say that much attention has lately been paid, both by the government and private individuals to the education of the natives. I hope to be able to give you some particulars respecting it on a future occasion.

A road leads from the extensive fortifications through a gate towards the west, across a broad esplanade to the Black Town, which is about a mile distant. On our way thither we saw several hundreds of men and women, standing in the most picturesque groups round brick wells, drawing water, washing linen, and refreshing themselves by throwing large pitchers of water over each other. The streets in the Native town are very narrow, and consist of small brick houses, two stories high: the lower story is raised but little above the ground, in which the open bazars are kept, where the dealers sit crosslegged behind their merchandise, which is piled up in baskets. Here a scene of the most busy and noisy activity constantly prevails, but especially in the evening, when the streets and bazars are lighted by

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numerous small lamps. Thousands of natives throng the stalls. examining the goods of the dealers, among whom the Bannia (corn chandler), and the Mittiewalla (confectioner), have the chief custom.

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The Bannia has every variety of grain, wheat, rice, barley, iowary (Holcus Sorghum), bagera (Panicum spicatum), Gram (Cicer arietinum), &c. exposed for sale in baskets, and in dry weather it is piled up in heaps in the street, in front of his booth. He generally has an iron pan at his side; this he keeps constantly hot, and pours maize into it, which is thus heated and roasted. It is a favourite food of the Indians, but their choicest delicacy is a cake made of flour and sugar, seethed in Ghee (clarified butter): these the Mittie-Wallas (p. 35.) arrange with much taste, and attract great numbers of women and children. It is, however, too sweet and indigestible to suit our

refined palates, though the natives indulge in it, till they actually become ill.

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The Soottar (carpenter) (p. 36.) employs only five tools, namely a hatchet, hammer, saw, gimblet, and knife, and with these, in a very awkward sitting posture, he not only makes the neatest furniture, but the prettiest boxes of Sandal-wood, inlaid with steel and ivory, in the most delicate and elegant patterns.

At his side is seated the Moochee (shoemaker) (p. 37.), manufacturing singularly formed pointed shoes, and it is remarkable that he generally works with his head uncovered.

A loud hammering indicates the workshop of the Lohar (smith and locksmith) (p. 38.), who performs his hard labour in a similar, inconvenient sitting posture. The Seikelgar (stone and glass grinder) (p. 39.)

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