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The short period of eight days allotted to our stay passed rapidly away, amidst such an ample variety of objects to engage my attention. I spent the last evening at a cheerful repast with the officers of the 14th regiment of Dragoons, where, according to English custom, we had numerous toasts and speeches. With these agreeable impressions, accompanied with many good wishes, I took leave of S, for whom I had conceived a great regard, and in two hours I was on my road to Bombay, in company with the Governor's aide-de-camp. Orders for post-horses having been sent on before, we reached Panwell early on Monday the 22d, but we were detained several hours, because the Governor's gondola did not come to fetch us till eleven o'clock. It was quite dark by the time we landed at Trombay on Salsette, whence a small carriage conveyed us along a causeway towards Colabah. The day had been very rainy, but was succeeded by a starlight night; luminous insects fluttered on every side, and every now and then some poor bird, startled by the noise of our carriage, flew across our path from the thickets, and the numerous ruined temples and Portuguese churches along the road. Our journey, which had hitherto been so prosperous, was suddenly interrupted by a slight accident: we had scarcely passed the bridge when our coachman, to avoid some carts, turned too far aside and overturned us into a ditch. My companion leaped out of the carriage window in a trice; but I waited very patiently till the door was opened, and was thankful to find myself on my legs again. Our light vehicle was soon raised by the assistance of some persons passing by at the time, and at midnight I arrived safe and sound at Mazagon House.

The following days were spent in the cheerful society of the amiable circle, in relating our adventures, and in preparations for my journey. Incessant rain, which fell like a water-spout, and obscured the sun for fourteen days, rendered it quite impossible to stir abroad. At such time the air is always so full of aqueous particles, that clothes, linen, and indeed every thing, is damp, and it is impossible to preserve arms and other articles of steel from rust: in order, in some degree, to lessen the unpleasant effects of these vapours, pans of charcoal must be constantly kept burning in the room.

With respect to my arrangements, I regret that I did not provide for them in Europe; for, with the exception of tents, every thing is incredibly bad and dear in this place. I was several days looking out for a horse, as the Arabs demand a hundred pounds for a serviceable animal, and I was obliged to rest satisfied with having procured one for 817 rupees. It is equally difficult for a stranger to obtain good servants: I have hired two Mahometans; the first, who is my butler, speaks English with tolerable fluency: he took part in the campaign in Affghanistan, and is to receive 42 rupees per month; and the latter 14 rupees. I intend to hire the other servants whom I shall want as soon as I reach the Indus.

I passed two days with the Governor at Pareil, where I had ample opportunity of making myself acquainted with the splendid establishments and luxury, of persons filling the highest offices in India. His Excellency has a band of twenty-five musicians, which performs every evening during dinner: a body guard, consisting of an officer and twenty-five men, accompanies him on his travels and on state occasions ; and

he has about two hundred servants, of whom more than forty are clothed in scarlet liveries. Several Parsees and Mahometans are about his person; forty are employed in the gardens, the rest in the stable and in various other departments.

Our departure for Sinde is fixed for the 10th of September at the latest; and we may hope that before that time the fury of the monsoon may have passed, and that the breakers may not prevent our landing on that coast. My next communication will probably be from the mouth of the Indus. Commending myself to your continued kindness, I beg you heartily to greet my relations and friends.

74

LETTER III.

TO CHARLES RITTER.

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Embarkation in the war steamer Zenobia, and departure for Kurrachee.- Fearful ravages of the cholera.-Dangerous landing on the coast at Kurrachee.- Kurrachee.- Alligator Pond, Maggar Talao.- Sinde under the Hindoo Princes.-Dominion of the Moguls.- The Ameers of the family of the Talpooris. Inhabitants of Sinde. The Belooches. Life and mode of government of the Ameers.-Language of the inhabitants of Sinde.- The English residents.- Voyage to Garrah.-March to Tatta.- Embarkation on board the Satellite steamer.-Hyderabad.-Audience of the Ameers.Journey to Sehwan and Sukkur. — Inhabitants. — Preparations for the journey to Ferospoor.

Kurrachee, September 11. 1842. WHEN you bade me farewell, I did not anticipate that the next indication of my being alive, would be sent to you not far from the mouth of the Indus; on whose banks your indefatigable spirit has spent so many hours in learned research. But still less could I have imagined that I should send you descriptions which, in their awful reality, reminded me of the terrific scenes delineated by Boccaccio, in such fearful colours, of the desolation of the plague at Bologna; for I, too, alas ! have been an eye-witness of such melancholy scenes.

You will have learnt from my letter to Alexander von Humboldt, that I intended to go with several officers in the early part of September to the Indus,

on board a war steamer belonging to Govrnment. Accounts however of disturbances in Sinde, induced the Government to hasten our departure, and the more so, as Sir Charles Napier was appointed general in command of all the troops there, and was naturally desirous to proceed as speedily as possible to his new destination. The General had the goodness to offer me, in case of hostilities, a place on his staff, which, of course, I most gratefully and joyfully accepted. With deep regret I bid farewell to the amiable family at Mazagon House, and kindly accompanied by the General and his sons, I embarked on Saturday the 3d of September at three in the afternoon, on board the Zenobia steamer of 670 tons and 284 horse-power. Besides Sir Charles Napier, we had on board 22 officers, 150 soldiers of the 28th, or Queen's regiment, 50 seapoys, 23 European soldiers' wives, 27 children, Werner, and about 60 servants. Our horses were in a boat, which was towed by the Zenobia.

We weighed anchor at sunset; a small mizzling rain, with wind and a hollow sea, rendered our voyage very disagreeable. It was especially trying to the soldiers and women, children and servants, who were obliged to remain on deck closely crowded together without any covering. Happily the weather cleared up when we had passed the last light, and got into the open sea. But towards midnight the sky again became cloudy, a tropical rain fell in torrents, and with such violence that I was roused by it from my sleep, and, taking my cloak, I went to see how it fared with the poor people on deck. Only picture to yourself such a multitude of men, women and children, crouching together in the narrow compass of the deck, in the open air, without protection

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