Sidor som bilder
PDF
ePub

THE FLOATING GARDENS OF

MEXICO.

A MARRIAGE IN HIGH LIFE. I AM very fond of weddings, and, to abandon for a moment the egotism and engrossing self-sufficiency which so delightfully characterize my sex, fancy that the sight of the solemnization of matrimony has equal charms for that better part of creation, whose special vocation it is, under all circumstances, to be married and happy, but who are oft-times, alas! as hopelessly celibate as the Trappist. One can scarcely go to a wedding without seeing some of these brave knights-errant, these preux chevalières of womanhood, these uncloistered nuns, these hermits in a vale of wax-lights and artificial flowers, clustering in the galleries, or furtively ensconced in pews near the altar. They are very liberal to the pew-openers, these kind old maids, and are always ready with smelling-bottles if there be any fainting going on. They take their part in the crying with praiseworthy perseverance, and echo the responses in heart-rending sobs; they press close to the bride as she comes down the aisle on the arm of her spouse, and eye her approvingly and the bridesmaids criticisingly.

THE greater part of the vegetables consumed in Mexico are cultivated in the chinampas, called by Europeans floating gardens. They are of two kinds; some are movable, and frequently driven up and down by the wind; others firm, and fixed to the shore. The former can be termed floating, but the number of these is daily lessening. The ingenious invention of the chinampas I is traceable to the end of the fourteenth century, and the idea was probably suggested to the Aztecas by nature itself. On the marshy banks of the lakes of Xochimilcho and Chalco, the waters, in their periodical swellings, throw up clods and mounds of earth, covered with grass and tangled roots. These masses, after floating for a long time up and down, the sport of every breeze, sometimes form into groups of small islets. The most ancient chinampas were only turf-mounds artficially joined, and then filled and planted by the Aztecas. These floating islands are found in every zone. The industry of the Aztecan nation has brought to great perfection the idea suggested by the masses of earth broken off from How many women-young, fair, and acthe banks of the rivers. The floating gar-complished, pure, and good, and wise-are dens, found by the Spaniards in great num- doomed irrevocably to solitude and celibacy! bers, and many of which are still to be found Every man knows such premature old maids; in the Lake of Chalco, were a sort of rafts sees among a family of blooming girls one formed of reeds, rushes, and rough, prickly, who already wears the stigmata of old tangling shrubs, and covered by the Indians maidenhood. It chills the blood to see with a layer of rich earth, impregnated with these hopeless cases, to see the women remuriate of soda. This salt is gradually ex- sign themselves to their fate with a sad, tracted from the soil by watering it with meek smile-to come back, year after year, the water of the lake, and the ground is and find them still meek, smiling, but sad, more or less fertilized according to the more confirmed old maids. It is ill for me, who or less frequent application of this lye; for dwell in quite a Crystal Palace of a glass such, even when salt, the water becomes by house, to throw so much as a grain of sand filtration through the soil. The chinampas at the windows opposite, but I cannot refrain sometimes contain a hut for the Indian in from sermonising my fellows on their selfcharge of a group of these floating gardens, conceited; bachelorhood. What dullards which can be towed or impelled by long were those writers in the "Times" newspoles at pleasure, from one side of the river paper about marriage and three hundred a to the other; but most of those now known year! Are there no such things as toil, by the name are fixed, and as this happens energy, perseverance? husband and wife just in proportion to the distance of the fresh-cheering one another on, and in wealth at water lake from the salt-water lake, many are to be found along the Vega, in the marshy soil between the Lake of Chalco and the Lake of Tezcuco. Each chinampa forms a parallelogram, three hundred feet long and about twenty in breadth, and is separated from its neighbour by a narrow dyke. In these chinampas are cultivated beans, peas, capsicums, potatoes, artichokes, and a great variety of other vegetables, and the borders are generally edged with flowers.

last pleasantly talking of the old times, the
struggles and difficulties? We hear a great
deal now-a-days about people's missions.
The proper mission of men is to marry, and
of women to bear children.
But here we
are at a fashionable wedding at St. James's
Church, Piccadilly.

How eloquent, and, by turns, pathetic and humorous, I could be on the bevy of youthful bridesmaids-all in white tulle over pink glacié silk, all in bonnets trimmed

[graphic][subsumed]

with whiteroses, with bouquets of camellias and lilies of the valley! How I could expatiate, likewise, on the appearance of the beauteous and high-born bride, her Honiton lace veil, her innumerable flounces; and her noble parents, and the gallant and distinguished bridegroom, in fawn-coloured inexpressibles and a cream-coloured face; and his best man," the burly colonel of the Fazimanagghur Irregulars; and the crowd of distinguished personages who alight from their carriages at the little wicket in Piccadilly, and pass along the great area amid the cheers of the little boys! They are all so noble and distinguished that one clergyman can't perform the ceremony, and extra parsons are provided. The register becomes an autograph-book of noble and illustrious signatures; the vestry-room has sweet odours of Jockey Club and Frangipani lingering about it for hours afterwards; the pewopener picks up white satin favours tied with silver twist. A white rose, broken short off at the stem, lies unregarded on the altarsteps; and just within the rails are some orange-blossoms from the bride's coronal. For they fall and die, the blossoms, as well

as the brown October leaves. Spring has its death as well as autumn: a death followed often by no summer, but by cold and cruel winter. The blossoms fall and die, and the paths by the hawthorn hedges are strewn with their bright corses. The blossoms droop and die: the little children die, and the green velvet of the cemetery is dotted with tiny grave-stones.

See, the bridal procession comes into garish Piccadilly, and, amid fresh cheers and the pealing of the joy-bells, steps into its carriages.

Happy, happy, happy pair;
None but the brave,

None but the brave,

None but the brave deserve the fair."

So sings Mr. John Dryden, whilom poet laureate. Let us hope that the brides of St. James's are all as fair as the bridegrooms are brave, and that they all commence a career of happiness by that momentous plunge into the waters of matrimony at eleven o'clock in the morning.

[graphic]

TOMB OF RAFFAELLE.

THE great painter Raffaelle died at Rome, April 7th, 1520, at the early age of thirty-seven. He was buried in the Pantheon, in a chapel which was afterwards called Raffaelle's Chapel. For more than a century and a half his tomb had only a plain epitaph, but Carlo Maratti desired to place a more striking memorial of Raffaelle's resting-place than the simple inscription, and accordingly, in the year 1764, a marble bust of the painter, executed by Paolo Nardini, was placed in one of the oval niches on each side of the chapel. The epitaph to Maria Bibieno (Raffaelle's betrothed) was removed to make way for Maratti's new inscription; and it was currently believed that the skull of Raffaelle was removed; at least such was the history given of a skull shown as the painter's, religiously preserved by the Academy of St. Luke, and descanted on by phrenologists as indicative of all the qualities which "the divine painter" possessed. But scepticism played its part; doubts of the truth of this story led to doubts of Vasari's statement respecting the exact locality of Raffaelle's tomb. Matters were brought to a final issue by the discovery of a document proving this skull to be that of

Don Desiderio de Adjutorio, founder of the society called the Virtuosi, in 1542. Thereupon, this society demanded the head of its founder from the Academy of St. Luke; but they would neither abandon that, nor the illusion that they possessed the veritable skull of the great artist. Arguments ran high, and it was at length determined to settle the question by an examination of the spot, which took place on the 13th of September, 1833, in the presence of the Academies of St. Luke and Archæology, the Commission of the Fine Arts (including Overback and others), the members of the Virtuosi, the Governor of Rome (Monsignor Grimaldi), and the Cardinal Zurla, the representative of the Pope.

The result will be best given in the words of an eye-witness, Signor Nibby (one of the Commission of Antiquities and Fine Arts), who thus described the whole to M. Quatremere de Quincy, the biographer of Raffaelle:-"The operations were conducted on such a principle of exact method as to be chargeable with over nicety. After various ineffectual attempts in other directions, we at length began to dig under the altar of the Virgin itself, and taking as a guide the indications furnished by Vasari, we at length came to some masonry of the length of a man's

[ocr errors]

theon was then illuminated, as for a funeral; the sarcophagus, with its contents, was placed in exactly the same spot whence the remains had been taken. The Presidents of the various Academies were present, with the Cavalier Fabris at their head. Each bore a brick, which he inserted in the brickwork with which the sepulchre was walled in. And so the painter awaits "the resurrection of the just," and the fellowship of saints and angels, of which his inspired pencil has given us the highest realization on earth.

METHOD.

body. The labourers raised the stone with the utmost care, and having dug within for about a foot and a half, came to a void space. You can hardly conceive the enthusiasm of us all, when, by a final effort, the workmen exhibited to our view the remains of a coffin, with an entire skeleton in it, lying thus as originally placed, and thinly covered with damp dust. We saw at once quite clearly that the tomb had never been opened, and it thus became manifest that the skull possessed by the Academy of St. Luke was not that of Raffaelle. Our first care was, by gentle degrees, to remove from the body the dust which covered it, and which we religiously collected, with the purpose of placing it in a new sarco- A LADY was complimenting a clergyman phagus. Amongst it we found, in tole- on the fact that she could always recolrable preservation, pieces of the coffin lect and recite more of the matters of (which was made of deal), fragments of a his sermon than those of any other minispainting which had ornamented the lid, ter she was in the habit of hearing. several bits of Tiber clay, formations She could not account for this; but she from the water of the river which had thought the fact was worthy of observapenetrated into the coffin by infiltration, tion. The reverend gentleman remarked an iron stelletta, a sort of spur, with that he thought he could explain the which Raffaelle had been decorated by cause. "I happen," he said, "to make Leo X., several fibule, and a number of a particular point of classifying my topics metal anelli, portions of his dress." These-it is a hobby of mine to do so; and small rings had fastened the shroud; several were retained by the sculptor Fibris, who also took casts of the head and hand, and Camuccini took views of the tomb and its precious contents. From one of these our cut is copied.

therefore I never compose a sermon without first settling the relationship and order of my arguments and illustration. Suppose, madam, that your servant was starting for town, and you were obliged hastily to instruct her about a few domestic purchases, not having time to write down the items; and suppose you said, 'Be sure to bring some tea, also some soap, and coffee too, by the by, and some powder-blue; and don't forget a few light cakes, and a little starch and some sugar; and now I think of it, soda'

On the following day the body was further examined by professional men: the skeleton was found to measure five feet seven inches. The narrowness of the coffin indicated a slender and delicate frame. This accords with the contemporary accounts, which say he was of a refined and delicate constitution; his frame-you would not be surprised if her was all spirit; his physical strength so limited that it was a wonder he existed so long as he did. The investigation completed, the body was exhibited from the 20 to the 24th, and then was again placed in a new coffin of lead, and that in a marble sarcophagus presented by the Pope, and taken from the antiquities in the Museum of the Vatican. A solemn mass was then announced for the evening of the 18th of October, The Pan

memory failed with regard to one or two of the articles. But if your commission ran thus-'Now, Mary, to-morrow we are going to have some friends to tea, therefore bring a supply of tea and coffee, and sugar and light cakes; and the next day, you know, is washing day, so that we shall want soap, and starch, and soda, and powder-blue'-it is most likely she would retain your order as easily as you retain my sermon."

[merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small]

LEAVING the devout pilgrims to kiss "the Stone of Unction," we passed through a vast throng of people, in which we recognized Turkish, Arab, and Greek soldiers, mingled with Armenian, Greek, Coptish, and Latin priests. Such a Babel of worshippers and languages, such a variety of costumes and countenances, and such a mixture of expressed passions and feelings, I never remember to have heard or seen collected together in one place before or since that time.

"Now, Signor, look right to the Calvary, upstairs, where old man pray," shouted our guide in a loud voice; and therefore following him, we commenced ascending a narrow, dark staircase (31 a)

a See Plan of Holy Sepulchre at p. 222.

of eight-and-twenty winding steps, nineteen of which are of wood, and run up the sides of the church wall, the remainder being formed from the solid rock. Many weary pilgrims pass over these steps during the day, and to

[ocr errors]

'Calvary's mournful mountain climb."

Calvary, or, as it is sometimes called, Golgotha, that is to say, the place of a skull,"-because, according to tradition, the skull of Adam was deposited there by Melchisedek,-is about 110 feet southeast of the sepulchre; the upper part of it (K) is level, and forms a platform, 47 feet square, on which is a chapel divided into two parts, and separated by arches. One is paved with mosaic, hung with tapestry, and lighted by lamps, whose dim light, shed upon the aged or careworn faces of the devotees, imparts a singular appearance to the whole. This is called the Chapel of the Cross (35), and the guide, pointing to a silver plate under the altar, at the eastern extremity of the other, informed us that it marked the spot where the foot of the cross rested, while on either side he showed us the holes where the crosses of the two thieves were fixed (33). A few paces from these is a long narrow opening, with brass bars over it. The guide removed the metal covering, and passed a lighted taper into the fissure, which is about three feet long and three inches wide; the edges being rough and corresponding, really appear to be a rent in the rock (34). This is said to have taken place when our Saviour, about the ninth hour, being in the agonies of death, cried out with a loud voice from the cross, "Eli, Eli, lama sabachthani ?" b The Greeks say that the soul of the bad felon went to perdition through this rent. Adjoining the place where the crosses. were placed is the Chapel of the Crucifixion (32), but as there was not anything remarkable about it, we descended the staircase, and turning to the left, visited the lower part of Calvary (H), and the tombs of Godfrey of Bouillon (36), and his brother Baldwin (37), which are almost destroyed. After this we proceeded towards the western end of the

Matt. xxvii. 46, 51.

« FöregåendeFortsätt »