INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

IN

CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS,

AND

YUCATAN.

BY JOHN L. STEPHENS, ESQ.,

AUTHOR OF "INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETREA,
AND THE HOLY LAND," ETC.

Illustrated by Numerous Engravings.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

TWELFTH EDITION.

NEW-YORK:

HARPER & BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF STREET.

1850.

F 1432

583 1850

V.Z

Copy!

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1841, by

HARPER & BROTHERS,

in the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of NewYork

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.-Village of Masaya.-Lake of Masaya.-Nindi

r.-Ascent of the Volcano.-Account of it.-The Crater.-Descent into it.-

Volcano of Nindiri.-Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest.—

Return to Masaya.-Another Countryman.-Managua.—Lake of Managua.—

Fishing. Beautiful Scenery.-Mateares.-Questa del Relox.-Nagarotis.-

Crosses.-A Gamekeeper.-Pueblo Nuevo

CHAPTER II.

Page 7

Beautiful Plain.-Leon.-Stroll through the Town.-Baneful Effects of Party

Spirit.-Scenes of Horror.-Unpleasant Intelligence.-Journey continued.--

A fastidious Beggar.-Chinandaga.-Gulf of Couchagua.-Visit to Realejo.-

Cotton Factory.-Harbour of Realejo.-El Viejo.-Port of Nagoscolo.- Im-

portance of a Passport.-Embarking Mules.-A Bungo.-Volcano of Cosagui-

na.-Eruption of 1835.-La Union

CHAPTER III.

22

Journey to San Salvador.-A new Companion.-San Alejo.-San Miguel.-War

Alarms. Another Countryman. State of San Salvador. - River Lempa. -

San Vicente.-Volcano of San Vicente.-Thermal Springs.-Cojutepeque.—

Arrival at San Salvador. - Prejudice against Foreigners. - Contributions. —

Pressgangs.-Vice-president Vigil.-Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.

-Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.-Departure from San Salvador 41

CHAPTER IV.

Contributions.-El Baranco de Guaramal.-Volcano of Izalco.-Depredations of

Rascon.-Zonzonate.-News from Guatimala.-Journey continued.--Aguisal

co.-Apeneca.-Mountain of Aguachapa.-Subterranean Fires.-Aguachapa.--

Defeat of Morazan.-Confusion and Terror

CHAPTER V.

58

Approach of Carrera's Forces.-Terror of the Inhabitants.-Their Flight.-Sur

render of the Town.-Ferocity of the Soldiery.-A Bulletin.-Diplomacy.-A

Passport.-A Breakfast.-An Alarm.-The Widow Padilla.-An Attack.-De

feat of Carrera's Forces.-The Town taken by General Morazan - His Entry.

-The Widow's Son.-Visit to General Morazan-His Appearance, Character,

&c.-Plans deranged.
. 74

CHAPTER VI.

Visit from General Morazan.-End of his Career.-Procuring a Guide.- Depar-

ture for Guatimala.-Fright of the People.-The Rio Paz.-Hacienda of Pal-

mita.-A fortunate Escape.-Hacienda of San José.—An awkward Predica-

ment.-A kind Host.-Rancho of Hocotilla.-Oratorio and Leon.-Rio de los

Esclavos.-The Village.-Approach to Guatimala.-Arrival at Guatimala.-A

Sketch of the Wars.-Defeat of Morazan.-Scene of Massacre Page 93

CHAPTER VII.

Ruins of Quirigua.-Visit to them.-Los Amates.-Pyramidal Structure.-A

Colossal Head.-An Altar.-A Collection of Monuments.-Statues.-Charac-

ter of the Ruins.-A lost City.-Purchasing a ruined City

CHAPTER VIII.

118

Reception at the Government House.-The Captain in Trouble.-A Change of

Character.-Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.-Arrest of the Captain.-

His Release. Visit from a Countryman.-Dangers in Prospect.-Last Stroll

through the Suburbs.-Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.-Fearful

State of the Country.-Last Interview with Carrera.-Departure from Guati-

mala. A Don Quixote.-Ciudad Vieja. - Plain of El Vieja. - Volcanoes,

Plains, and Villages.-San Andres Isapa.-Dangerous Road.-A Molina. 125

CHAPTER IX.

Journey continued.-Barrancas.-Tecpan Guatimala.-A noble Church.-A sa-

cred Stone.-The ancient City.-Description of the Ruins.-A Molina.-Anoth-

er Earthquake--Patzum.—A Ravine.-Fortifications.-Los Altos. - Godines.

-Losing a good Friend-Magnificent Scenery.-San Antonio.-Lake of Ati

tan

CHAPTER X.

.

146

Lake of Atitan.-Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.-A Sail on the Lake.—A dan-

gerous Situation.-A lofty Mountain Range.-Ascent of the Mountains.-Com-

manding View.-Beautiful Plain.-An elevated Village.-Ride along the Lake.

-Solola.-Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché.-Scenery on the Road.-Barrancas.

-San Thomas.-Whipping-posts.--Plain of Quiché.-The Village.-Ruins of

Quiché.-Its History.-Desolate Scene.-A facetious Cura.-Description of

the Ruins.-Plan.-The Royal Palace.-The Place of Sacrifice.-An Image.

-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Palace recent.-An Arch

CHAPTER XI.

. 161

Interior of a Convent.-Royal Bird of Quiché.-Indian Languages.-The Lord's

Prayer in the Quiché Language.-Numerals in the same.-Church of Quiché.

-Indian Superstitions.-Another lost City.-Tierra de Guerra.-The Abori

ginals.-Their Conversion to Christianity.-They were never conquered.-A

CONTENTS.

living City.-Indian Tradition respecting this City.-Probably has never been

visited by the Whites.-Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise.--Depar-

ture. San Pedro.-Virtue of a Passport.-A difficult Ascent.-Mountain

Scenery.-Totonicapan.-An excellent Dinner.--A Country of Aloes.--" River

of Blood."-Arrival at Quezaltenango

Page 189

CHAPTER XII.

Quezaltenango.-Account of it.-Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity.

-Appearance of the City.-The Convent.-Insurrection.-Carrera's March

upon Quezaltenango.-His Treatment of the Inhabitants.-Preparations for

Holy Week.-The Church.-A Procession.-Good Friday.-Celebration of the

Resurrection.-Opening Ceremony.-The Crucifixion.-A Sermon.- Descent

from the Cross.-Grand Procession.-Church of El Calvario.-The Case of

the Cura.-Warm Springs of Almolonga

CHAPTER XIII.

203

-

Journey continued.-A Mountain Plain. -Lost Guides. A trying Moment.

Agua Calientes.-A magnificent View.- Gold Ore.- San Sebastiano.- Gue-

guetenango. Sierra Madre.-A huge Skeleton. - The Ruins. - Pyramidal

Structures.-A Vault.-Mounds.-A welcome Addition.-Interior of a Mound.

-Vases.-Ascent of the Sierra Madre.-Buena Vista.-The Descent.-Todos

Santos.- San Martin.-San Andres Petapan.-A Forest on Fire.--Suffering

of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.-San Antonio de Guista

CHAPTER XIV.

221

Comfortable Lodgings.-Journey continued.-Stony Road.-Beautiful River.-

Suspension Bridge.-The Dolores.-Rio Lagertero.- Enthusiasm brought

down. Another Bridge.-Entry into Mexico.-A Bath.-A Solitary Church.

-A Scene of Barrenness.-Zapolouta.-Comitan.-Another Countryman.-

More Perplexities. -- Official Courtesy. - Trade of Comitan.

Scarcity of Soap .

CHAPTER XV.

Smuggling.-

240

Parting. Sotaná.-A Millionaire.-Ocosingo.-Ruins.-Beginning of the Rainy

Season.-A Female Guide.-Arrival at the Ruins.-Stone Figures.-Pyrami-

dal Structures.-An Arch.-A Stucco Ornament.-A Wooden Lintel.-A cu-

rious Cave. Buildings, &c.- A Causeway. More Ruins.-Journey to Pa-

lenque.-Rio Grande.-Cascades.-Succession of Villages.-A Maniac-The

Yahalon.-Tumbala.-A wild Place.--A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.-

Indian Carriers.-A steep Mountain.-San Pedro

-

CHAPTER XVI.

255

A wild Country.-Ascent of a Mountain.-Ride in a Silla.-A precarious Situa-

tion. The Descent.-Rancho of Nopa.-Attacks of Moschetoes.-Approach

to Palenque.-Pasture Grounds.--Village of Palenque.-A crusty Official.--A