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hat lord of old would bid his cook prepare But 'tis not reason therefore you should spare, langues, rotargo, champignons, caveare

When, as their future burgess, you prepare r would our thrum-capp'd ancestors find fault, For a fat corporation and their mayor, or want of sugar-tongs, or spoons for sale ? All things should find their room in proper place; ew things produce new words, and thus Monteth And what adorns this treat, would that disgrace. las by one vesiel sav'd his name from death. Sometimes the vulgar will of mirth partakc, he seasons change us all. By Autumn's frost, And have excessive doings at their wake : he hady leaves of trees and fruit are loit. Ev'n tailors at their yearly feasts look great, ut then the Spring breaks forth with fresh supplies, And all their cucumbers are curn'd to meat. nd from the teeming earth new buds arisc. A prince, who in a forest rides astray, o stubble-geese at Michaelmas are seen

And, weary, to lonie cottage finds the way, pon the fpir; next May produces green. Talks of no pyramids of fuwl, or bisks of fish, [dish; he fate of things lies always in the dark : But, hungry, fups his creanı serv'd up in earthen Phat cavalier would know St. James's Park? Quenches his thirst with ale in nur-brown bowls, or Locket's stands where gardens once did spring; And takes the harty rasher from the coals : nd wild-ducks quack where grasshoppers did fing; Pleas'd as King Henry with the miller free, princely palace on that space does rise,

Who thought himself as good a man as he. There Sedley's poble Muse found mulberries t. Unless some sweetness at the bottom lie, nce places alcer thus, what constant thought Who cares for all the crickling of the pye? f filling various dishes can be taught?

If you would have me merry with your cheer, or he pretends too much, or is a fool,

Be lo yourself, or so at least appear. Tho'd fix those things where fashion is a rule. The things we eat by various juice control King Hardicnute, mida Danes and Saxons four, The narrowness or largeness of our soul. arouz d in nut-brown ale, and din'd on grout;

Onions will make ev'n heirs or widows wecp ; 'hich dish its pristine honour itill retains, The tender lecluce brings on softer flecp; nd, when each prince is crown'd, in splendour | Eat beef or pye-crust if you'd serious be; reignz.

Your fhell-fish raises Venus from the sea; By northern custom, duty was exprer-'d, For nature, that inclines to ill or good, o friends departed, by their funeral feast. Still nourishes our passions by our food. hough I've consulted Holin shed and Stow, . Happy the man that has each fortune tried, find it very difficult to know

To whom the much has given, and much denied ; Tho, to refresh th' attendants to a grave,

With abstinence all delicates he sees, vrnt-claret first or Naples-biscuit gave.

And can regalc himself with toast and cheese : Trotter from quince and apples first did frame Your betters will despise you, if they fee pye, which still retains his proper name :

Things that are far surpassing your degree; hough common grown, yet, with white sugar Therefore beyond your substance never treat; frow'd,

"Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat. pd butter'd right, its goodness is allow'd. 'Tis certain that a steward can't afford As wealth flow'd in, and plenty sprang from An entertainment equal with his Lord. peace,

Old age is frugal; gay youth will abound pod-humour reign'd, and pleasures found increase. With heat, and see the flowing cup go round was usual then the banquet to prolong

A widow has cold pye; nurse gives you cake; y music's charm, and some delightful song; From generous merchants ham or sturgeon take. There every youth in pleasing accents Grove The farmer has brown bread as fresh as day, o tell the firatagems and cares of love;

And butter fragrant as the dew of May. low some fuccefitul were, how others crost; Cornwall squab-p!e, and Devon white-pot brings ; hen to the sparkling glass would give his toast, And Leicester beans and bacon, food of kings! Vhose bloon did most in his opinion shine,

At Chriltnias-time, be careful of your fa.ne, o relish both the music and the wine.

See the old tenants' table be the same; Why am I styl'd a cook, if I'm so loth

Then, if you would send up thc brawner's head, co marinate my fith, or fiafon broth,

Sweet rosemary and bays around it spread : Or fend up what I roast with plealing froth; S His foaming tulks let fome large pippin grace, finy master's gulo won't discern,

Or midst those thundering spears an orange place; But, through my bashful folly, scorn to learn ? ! Sauce like himself, offensive to its foes, When anong friends good humour cakes its The roguish mustard, dangerous to the nose. birth,

Sack and the well-spic'd hippocras the wine, Tis not a tedious feast prolongs che mirth; Wassail the bowl with ancient ribbands fine,

Porridge with plums, and turkeys with the

chine. * In the time of King Henry VIII. the park was a wild vet field; but that prince, on building St James's palace,

If you perhaps would try some dish unknown, nclofcd it, laid it out in walks, and, collecting the waters Which more peculiarly you'd make your own, ogether, gave to the new.enclosed ground and new-raised olding the name of St. James. It was much cnlarged by

Like ancient sailors still regard the coast, Charles Il.; who added to it several nelds, planted it with By venturing our too far you may be loft. trows of lime-trees, laid out the Mall, for ined the canal, ; By s asting that which your forefathers boild, with a decoy, and other pends, for water-fowl., † A comcdy called, " The Mulberry Garden.".

And boiling what they roasted, much is spoil'.

If you

That cook to British palates is crmplete,

Let cruel offices be done by night,
Whose savoury hand gives turns to common meat. For they who like the thirg abhor the fight

Though cooks are often men of preynant wit, Next, let discretion moderate your cf,
Through niceness of their subject, few have writ. And, when y u 'reat, three ceuries be the noi,
In what an aukward found that ballad ran, Let oever freth machines your paftry try,
Which with this bluftering paragraph began : Unler, grandees or magiftrates are by:
There was a prince of Lubberland

Then you may put a dwarf into a rye.
A petenta:e of bigb command,

Or, if you'd fright an alderman and mayet,
Ten thoufand badero did attend him,

Within a pity lodge a living hare;
Ten thousand brewers did befriend bim :

Thin midit their gravet: furs shall m.irth arif,
These brought him kifing-crufts and those

And all the Guild perfue with joyful cries. Brought bim small-beer, before be rose.

Crowd not your table : let your number be The author raises mountains feming full, No more than leven, and never less thac tres But all the cry pr dures little woel:

'Tis the desert that graces all the fratt, So, if you sue a beggar for a house,

For an ill end disparages i he rest :
And have a verdict, what d'ye gain? A Louse! A thousand things well done, and one forgot,
Homer, more modest, if we search his books, Defaces obligation by that blot.
Will shew us that his heroes all were cooks; Make your transparent fweer-meats truly nice,
How lov'd Parroclus with Achilles joins,

With Indian sugar and Arabian spice:
To quarter out the ox, and spir the loins.

And let your various creams encircled be
Oh could that poet live! could he rehearse With swelling friit just ravith'd from tbe tree.
Thy journey, Lifter, in immortal verse!

Let plates and dishes be from China brough,
Mufe, fing the man ibat did to Paris go,

With lively paint and earth transparent wrougar That be might tase their foups, and musorooms know! The feast now done, discourses are renew'd,

Oh, how would Homer praise their dancing dogs, And witty arguments with mirth pursued. Their stinking cheese, and fricasce of frogs! The cheerful master, 'midst his jovial friends, He'd raise no fables, sing no flagrant lye,

His glass “ to their best wishes' recommende Of boys with custard chok'd at Newberry; The grace-cup follows to his sovereign's healih, But their whole courses you'd'entirely fee, And to his country, " Plenty peace, and wealt. How all their parts from first to last agree. Períorming then the piety of grace,

all forts of persons would engage, Each man that pleales re-assumes his place; Suit well your earables to every age.

While at his gate, from such abundant store
The favourite child, t'at just begins to prattle, He Mowers his godlike blellings on the pucr.
And throws away his silver bells and ra:tle,

In days of old, our fathers went to was,
Is very humoursome, and makes great clutter, Expecting sturdy blows and hardy fare:
Till he has windows on his bread and butter : Their beef they often in their murrions fter'd,
He for repeated supper-meat will cry,

And in their basket-hiles their beverage brewa
But won't tell maminy what he'd have, or why. Some officer perhaps may give confert,
The fmooth-fac'd youth, that has new guar To a large cover'd pipkin in his tent,
dians chose,

Where every thing that every soldier got,
From play-house steps to supper at the Rose, Fowl, bacon, cabbage, mutton, and what 1.0,
Where he a main or two at random throwy: Was all thrown into bank, and went to pil.
Sqaandering of wealth, impatient of advice, But, when our conquests were extensive grown,
His eating inust be little, coftly, nice.

And through the world our British worth wa Maturer age, to this delight grown Nrange,

known, Bach night frequents his club behind the 'Change, Weal·h on commanders then fow'd in apace, Expecting there frugality and health,

Their Chanipaign sparkled equal with their lace And honour riting from a fheriff's wealth: Quails, Beccufico's, Ortolans, were sent, Unless he some insurance dinner lacks,

grace

the levee of a general's tent;' 'Tis very rarely he frequenes Pontack's.

In their gilt plare all delicates were seen, But then old age, by ftill intruding years,

And what was earth before became a rich tertene Torments the feeble heart with anxious fears: When the young players once get to Idington Morose, perverse in humour, diffident,

They fondly think that all the world's item The more he still abourds, the less content;

gwn:
His larder and his kitchen too observes,

Prentices, parish-clerks, and hectors meet ;
And now, lett' he should want hereafter, farves; He that is drunk, or bullied, pays the treat.
Thinks scorn of all the present age can give, Their talk is loose; and o'er the bouncırg ale
And none these threescore years knew how to live. At conftables and justices they rail;
Bre now the cook must país through all degrees, Not thinking cuftard such a serious thing,
And by his art discordant tempers please,

That commori-council-men 'twill thither bring;
And minister to health and to disease.

Where many a man, at variance with his wife, Far from the parlour have your kitchen plac'd, With defteuing mead and cheese-cake ends the Dainties may in their working be disgrac'd,

strife. In private draw your poultry, clean your erine, Ev'n squires come there, and, with their ticao And from your eels their flimy substance wipe. Render the kitchen, which chey fit in, work.

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Midwives demure, and chamber-maics most gay, As for myself, I take him to abftain,
Foremen that pick the box, and come to play, Who has good meat, with decency, though plain :
Here find their entertainnent at the height, But, though my edge be not too nicely fet,
In cream and codlings revelling with delight, Yet I another's ar petite may whet;
What these appr ve, the great men will oiflike: May teach him when to buy, when season's past,
But here's the art, if you the palate Atrike;' What's italé, what choice, what plentiful, whai
By inaragement of common things so well,

waste; I hat what was thought the meanest Mall excel; And lead him through the various maze of taste. While others trive in vain, all persons own

'The fundamental principle of all Such dishes could be dress'd by you alone. Is what ingenious cocks the relis call;

Whcu ftraite 'd in your time, and servants few, For, when the market sends in loads of food, You ll rightly then conup le an ambigue;

l'hey all are tasteless till that makes them goods Where first and fecond course, and your desert, Besides, 'tis no ignoble piece of care, All in one fingle able have their part.

To know for whom it is you would prepare : Frim such a valt confusion 'ri, delight,

You'd please a friend, or reconcile a brother, To ti d the jarı ing elements unite,

A telty' father, or a haughty mother; And raise a Iructure grateful to the sight. Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire, Be not too far by old example led,

Or else some smiles from court you may desire; With caution now we in their footsteps cread: Or would, perhaps, fime hatty supper give, The French our relish help, and well supply l'o shew the splendid state in which you live. The want of things tre gross by decency.

Pursuant to that interest you propose, Our fathers most admir'd their fauces Iweet, Muft all your wine and all your meat be chose. And often ask'd for lugar with heir meat; Tre men and manners every difh adapt: They burter'd currants on fat veal bestow'd, Who'd force his pepper where his guests are claptis And runips of beef with virgin-honey stiew'd. A cauldron of fat becf and stoop of ale Ir tipid tatte, old friend, to them who Paris know, On the huzzaing mob shall more prevail, W..ere rocombole, fallot, and the rank garlic, Than if you give them with the nicest art grow.

Ragonts of peacocks brains, or filbert-tart. Tom Bold did first begin the strolling mart, The French by foups and baut-gouts glory raises And drove ab ut his turnis in a cart;

And their desires all terminate in praise. S metimes his wife he citizens would please, The thristy maxim of the weary Dutch And from the same machine fell pecks of peale ; Is, to save all the money they can touch : Then pippins did in wheel-barrows abound, “ Hans," cries the father, “ see a pin lies there; And oratiges in whin:sey-beards west round : A pin a day will fetch a groat a-year. Bess Hoy first found it trou! Jesome to "awl, " To your five farthings join three farthinge And therefore plac'd her cherries on a Itall;

« more; Her currants there and gooseberries were spread, " Ard they, if added, make your halfpence four:“ With the enticing gold of gingerbread :

Thus may your stock by management increase, But flounders, 1prats, and cucur bers, were cried, Your wars shall gain you mure than Britain's And every sound and every voice was tried.

peace. At last the Law this hideous nin fup: refs'd, Where love of wealth and rusty coin prevail, And order'd that the Sunday should have rest; What hopes of sugar'd cakes or butter'd ale ? And that no nymph her n isy food should tell, Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill, Except it were new milk or mackarei.

Or in a prudent mixture thew their skill : There is no dish but what our cooks have made, Clug not your conftant meals; for dishes few And merited a charter by their trade. (Spain, Increase the appetite, when choice and new. Noc French kickshaws, or "glies brughi from Ev’n they, who will extravagance profess, Alone have found improvement from their brun; Have fil an inward hatred for excels : But pudding, brawn, and whi'c-pots, own’d to be Miat, forc'd too much, untouch'd at cable lies, Th’effects or native ingenuiry.

Few care for carning trifies in disguise, Our British fleet, which now commands the Or that fantastic disn some call surprise. Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain. I main, When pleasures to the eye and palate meet, Would they take time; would they with leisure That cock has render'd his great work completer

(pork; His glory sår, like furluin knigbtbood, flies; With care would fall their beef, and cure their Imniortal made, as Kit-cat by his pyes. Would boil their liquor well whene'er they brew, Good-nature must some failings overlook, Tbeir conqueft balf is to tbe vicłualler due

Not wilfulness but errors of the cook. Because that ihrift and abitinence are good, A string won't always give the sound design'd As many things if rightly understood :

By the musician's touch and heavenly mind; Old Cross conden:ns all perfuns to be fops,

Nor will an arrow from the Parthian bow
That can't regale themselves with mutton-chops. Still to che destin'd point directly go.
He often for stuft beef to Bedlam runs,

Perhaps no falt is thrown about the dish,
And the clean rummer, as the pesthouse, shuns. Or no fried parsley scatter'd on the fifh;
Simetimes pour jack and onions are his dish, Shall I in paffion from my dinner fly,
And then he faults those friars who ftunk ot fill. And hopes of pardon to my cook deny,

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« by me,

For things which carele Sriefs might oversce, Taught them tha: honesty they fit ill possess,
And all mankind conimit as well as he?

Their truth, their open heart, their modet drea I with compaffion once may overlook

Duty to kindred, constancy to friends, A skewer sent en table by my cook :

And inward worth, which always recommends; But think not therefore tamely I'll permit Contempt of wealth and pleasure, to appear That he should daily the same saule perinit To all mankind vrith hospitable cheer. For fear the rascal send me up the spit!

In after ages, Arthur and his knighes Poor Roger Fowler had a generous mind, At his round table to record their fights, Nor would submit to have his hand confin'd, Cities craz’di, encampments forc'd in field, But ain'd at all, yet never could excel

Morfters subdued, and hideous tyrants qael'd, In any thing but stufling of his veal :

Inspir'd that Cambrian soul which ne'er cu But, when that dish was in perfection seen,

yield. And that alone would it not move your spleen! Then Guy, the pride of Warwick, truly grea, 'T'is true, in a long work, soft slumbers creep, To future heroes due example set, And gently fink the artist into Deep.

By his capacious cauldron made appear, Ev'n Lamb hinsfelf, at the most folemn fcast, From whence the spirits rise, and Itrength of wr. Might have fume chargers not exactly dreft. The present age, to gallantry inclin'd,

Tables should be like pictures to the light, Is pleas'd with valt improvements of the miné. Some dishes cal in shade, fome spread in light, He that of honour, wit, and mirth, partakca, Some at a distance brighten, some near hand, May be a fit companicn o'er beef-steaks; Where case may all their delicace conimand : His name may be to future times enrolled Some should be mov'd when broken; others laat In Estcourt's book', whose gridiron's fram'de Through the whole trcat, incentive to the laite.

gold. Locket, by many labours feeble grown,

Scorn not these lines, defign'd to let you knor Up fron the kitchen cail'd his eldest fon :

Profits that from a well-plac'd table flow. Though wise thyself,” says he, “though taught ''is a sage question, if the art of cooks

Is lodg'd by nature, or attain'd by bowks: " Yet fix this sentence in thy memory :

That man will never frame a noble treal, “ There are some certain things that don't cxcel, Whose whole dependence lies in some receipe : " And yet we say are tolerably well:

Then by pure nature cvery thing is spoil'd, “ There's many worthy men a lawyer prize, She knows no more than Itew'd, bak'd, roaf, a! “ Whom they distinguish as of middle size,

boil'd. “ For pleading well at bar, or turning books; When art and nature join, th' effc & will be “ But this is not, my sun, the fate of cooks, Sonie nice ragout, or charming fricajer. " From whose mysterious art true pleasures Springs The lad that would his genius lo advance, “ To sali of garter, and to throne of kings. That on the rope he might securely dance, “ A simple scene, a difobliging long,

From tender years enures himself to pains, “ Which n' way to the main design belong, To Summer's parching heat, and Winter's sans Or were they absent never would be miss'd, And from the fire of wine and love abftains; “ Have made a well wrought comedy be hiss’d : No artit can his hautbcy's stops commard, So in a fcast no intermediate fault

Unless some skilful master form his hand: “ Will be allow'd; but, if not belt, 'tis naught." But gentry take their cooks though never tried

He that of feeble nerves and joints complains, It seems no more to them than up and ride. From pine pins, cuits, and from trap-ball, ab Preferments granted thus fhew him a fool, Itains;

That dreads a parent's check, or rods at fibool

. Cudgels avoids, and Muns the wrestling-place, Ox-check when hot, and wardens bak’d, focxuty Let vinegar refound his loud disgrace.

But 'tis with an intention men should buy. But every one to cookery pretends;

Oihers abound with such a plenteous ftare, Nor maid nor mitreis e'cr consult i leir friends. That, if you'll let them treat, they'll ask to mehr. But, Sir, if you would roast a pig, be free: And 'tis the vast ambition of their soul, Why not with Brawn, with Locket, or with me? To see their port admir'd, and table full. We'll see when 'tis enough, when both eyes out, But then, amidst that cringing fawning crowd, Or if it wants the nice concluding boue;

Who talk so very much, and laugh to loud, But, if it lies too long, the crackling's pallid, Who with such grace his honour's actions prailer Not by the drudging. bos to be recall'd.

How well he fences, dances, fings, and plays;
Our Cambrian fathers, sparing in their food. Tell him his livery's rich, his chariot's fine,
First boil'd their hunted goats on bars of wood. How choice his meat, and delicate his wine;
Sharp hunger was their fcaloning, or they took
Such salt as issued from the native rock.

* That is, “be admitted a member of The Beatles

Club."... Richard Estcourt, who was a Player and to Their sallading was never sar to seek,

matic Writer, is celebrated in the Spectator, ae poflicts The poignant water-grass, or favoury leek; a (prightly wil, and an easy and natural poistetuis Until the British bards adorn'd this iflc,

company was much coveted by the great, on do

his qualifications as a boon companion. When the 2005 And taught them how to roast, and how to boil : Beei-steak Club was first intiented, he had the core u Then Talieslin rose, and sweetly strung

of Providore assigned him; and, as a mark of dificis

used to wear a small gridiron of gold hung about bei Bola His British harp, instructing whiil he fung: with a green lilk ribband. He dicd in the year 1745

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tounded thus, hor hould the youth descry There are some persons so erecílive rude, e happiness of friendship from a lie?

That to your private table they'll intrude. ends act with cautious femper when sincere; In vain you fly, in vain pretend to fail; fastering impudence is void of care:

Turn like a fox, they'll catch you at the lat. at an Irish funeral appears

You must, since bars and doors are no defence, Erain of drabs with mercenary tears;

Ev'n quit your house as in a pestilence. 10, wringing of their hands, with hideous moan, Be quick, nay very quick, or he'll approach, ow not his name for whom they seem to groan; And, as you're scampering, stop you in your coach. mile real grief with silent Reps proceeds,

Then think of all your sins, and you will see d love unfeign'd with inward passion bleeds. How right your guilt and punishment agrec: su fate of wealth: Were lords as butchers wise, | Perhaps no tender pity could prevail, ey from their meat would banish all the flies! But you would throw some debtor into goal. • Persian kings, with wine and massy bowl, Now mark th' effect of this prevailing curse, Lrch'd to the dark recesses of the foul;

You are detain'd by something that is worte. at, so laid open, no one might pretend,

Were it in my election, I thould chefe, less a man of worth, to be their friend. To meet a revenous wolf or bear got loose.

now the guetts their patrons undermine; He'll cat and talk, and talking fill will eat, d blander them, for giving them their wine. No quarter from the the parasite you'll get ; at men have dearly thus companions bought: But, like a leech well fix'd, he'll fuck whai's good, less by these instructions they'll be taught, And never part till satisfied with blood. y spread the act, and will themselves be

caught. Vere Horace, that great master, now alive, east with wit and judgment he'd contrive.

LETTER IX. thus --Supposing that you would rehearse

To Mr. abour'd work, and every dish a verse; a say, “ Mend this, and tother line, and this.” Dear Sir, fter trial it were still anils,

I MUST communicate my happiness to you, bed bid you give it a new turn of face,

cause you are so much my friend as to rejoice at set some dish more curious in its place.

it. I some days ago met with an old acquaintou peräst, he would not strive to move ance, a curious person, of whom I enquired if he sassion to delightful as self-love.

had seen the book concerning Soups and Sauces. Ve should submit our treats to critics' view, He told me he had; but that he had but a very

cvery prudent cook should read Boflu. Night view of it, the person who was matter of it gment provides the meat in season fit, not being willing to part with to valuable a rarity ich by the genius drest, its sauce is wit. out of his closet. . I desired him to give me what d beef for mer.. Pudding for youth and age, account he could of it. He says, that it is a very me up to the decorum of the stage.

handione octavo; for, ever since the days of : critic ftrikes out all that is not just,

Ogilby, good paper, and good print, and fine cuts, i'tis ev'n fu the butler chips his crust.

make a book become ingenious, and brighten up is and pastry-cooks will be the same,

an au:hor strangely; that there is a copivus index ; ce both of them their images niuft frame. and at the end a caralogue of all the doctor's mæras from the poet's fancies flow :

works, concerning cockles, Eriglish beetles, snails, ? cook contrives his shapes in real dough. Spiders that get up into the air and throw us Vhen truth commands, there's no man can down cobwebs, a monfer vomited up by a baker, offend,

and such like; which, if carefully perused, would it with a modest love corrects his friend, wonderfully improve us. There is, it seems, no ugh 'tis in coafting bread, or buttering pease, manuscript of it in England, nor any other country he reproof has temper, kindness, ease. that can be heard of; so that this impression is why should we reprove when faults are small ? from one of Humelbergius, who, as my friend ause 'tis better to have none at all.

says, he does not believe contrived it himself, beere's often weight in things that seem the least, cause the things are so very much out of the way, d our most trifling follies raise the jest. that it is not probable any learned man would set Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please; himself seriously to work to invent them. He kitchen will aduit of no disease.

tells mo of this ingenious remark made by the e fowler and the huntsman both may rus

editor “ That, whatever manuscripts there might nidit that dirt which he must nicely shup. “ have been, they must have been cxtremely vipedocles, a lage of old, would raise

“ cious and corrupt, as being written out by the name immortal by unusual ways;

“ cooks themselves, or some of their friends or lalt his fancies grew so very odd,

“ servants, who are not always the most accuthought by roasting to be made a god.

“ rate.” And then, as my friend observed, if the ough fat, he leapt with his unwieldy stuff cook had uled it much, it might be sullied; the Ætna's Aames, so to have fire enough.

cook, perhaps, not always licking his fingers when ere my cook fat, and I a ftander-by,

hc had occasion for it. I should think it no imrather than himself his Eh should fry,

provident matter for the state to order a select 'OL. VI,

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