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scrivener to transcribe receipts, lest ignorant | necesity of abstinence, introduced the eating ! women and housekeepers should impose upon cheese and venison without those additional face future ages by ill-spelt and uncorrect receipts for which the phyficians of old found out to regen potting of lobsters, or pickling of turkeys. Cælius the depraved appetites of such grea: men as based Apicius, it feems, passes for the author of this lost their stomachs by an excess of luxury. Out treatise; whose science, learning, and discipline, the ruins of Erasikratus's book of Endico, Cert were extremely contemned, and almost abhorred, Lorrensis of Coqueheel, Mitbæcus of Halefet, D> by Seneca and the stoics, as introducing luxury, nysius of Sugar fops. Agis of Pickled Eram and infeding the manners of the Romans; and lo Epinetus of Sack-folet, Euthedemus of African lay neglected till the inferior ages; but then were lings, Hegilippus of Black-fudding, Crito of Sugar introduced, as being a help to physic, to which a Mackarel, Stephanus of Lemon-cream, Archres learned author, called Donatus, says, that “ the Hog's Harpet, A cestius of Quince-marmalze, Mits " kitchen is a handmaid." I remember in our sius of Posted Pigeons, Diocles of Sareet Breedi, days, though we cannot in every respect come up Philition of Oat cakes, and several other fach to the ancienis, that, by a very good author, an old thors, the great Humelbergius compoted his 24 gentleman is introduced as making use of three tations upon Apicius; whose receipts

, when doctors, Dr, Diet, Dr. Quiet, and Dr. Merriman. of Tully, Livy, and Tacitus, have been degias They are reported to be excellent physicians; and, and loft, were preserved in the u'moft parse is kept at a constant pension, their fees will not be Transylvania, for the peculiar pala:e of the insa very costly.

nious editor. Laticus Latinius finds {zuk: It seems, as my friend has learned, there were several dishes of Apicius, and is pleased to fasthan two persons that bore the name of Apicius, one are nauseous; but our editor defends that goes under the republic, the other in the time of Ti person, by thewing the difference of our culer herius, who is recorded by Pliny, " to have had how Plutarch says, " the ancienis used to a great deal of wit and judgment in all affairs “per," whereas all, or at least five or fir hands “ that related to eating,” and consequently has of Apicius's delicates were seasoned with it. 88 his name affixed to many sorts of aumulcts and we may as well admire that some Welli hes parcakes. Nor were emperors less contributors should abstain from salt, as that we should be 2' to so great an undertaking, as Vitellius, Conimo. to bear the bitterness of hops in our conta dus, Didius, Julianus, and Varius Heliogabalus, drink : and therefore we should not be aperte whose imperial names are prefixed to manifold rue, cummin, parsley feed, marsh-osalmi receipts, the last of which emperors had the pe- nettles, with our common meat: or to rare culiar glory of first making sausages of shrimps, per, honey, falt, vinegar, raisins, mult sd, *** crabs, oysters, sprawns, and lobsters. And the se oil, rue, maftic, and cardamums, frown fufages being mentioned by the author which the miscuously over cur dinner when it comes to tell editor publishes, from that and many other argu. My friend tells me of some short observato ments the learned Doctor irrefragably maintains, made out of the annotations, which he ois pas that the book, as now printed could not be tran memory; and therefore begs pardon : fcribed till after the time of Heliogabalus, who things he may mistake, because it is Dot mod gloried in the titles of Apicius and Vitellius, more as, that Papirius Petrus was the great permai than Antoninus, who had gained his reputation by custard : that the “Tetrapbarmacex, à temperate, austere, and folid virtue. And, it “ admired by the Emperors Adrian and Action feems, under his adminisration, a person that sound “ der Severus, was made of pheasant, pesisti out a new soup might have as great a reward as “ wild sow's heck and udder, with a brea. Drake or Danipier might exped for finding out a “ ding over it ; and that the game ard trends new Continent. My friend says, the editors tells us " so odd a dish are to be fought for amcey of unheard-of dainties; how “ Æfopus had a fus per “ physicians." “ of the tongues of birds that could speak ;" and The work is divided into ten books; of wb: that “ his daughter regaled on pearls,” though the first treats of foups and pickles, and a he does not tell us how she dressed them; how other things fhews that sauce pans were *** " Hortenfius left ten thousand pipes of wine in before the time of Pliny; that Gurdjan ple'ofer « his cellar, for his heir's drinking ;" how “ Ve of bitter in a miornirg; that the ancieros kaime “ dius Pollio fed his fith-ponds with man's fieth ;" their wine; and that burnt claret, and how “ Cæsar bought fix thousand weight of eised, with spice and sugar, is pernicieus." “ lampreys for his trium; hal lurrer' He says, I the adulteration of wine was as ancico! 3 Caw the editor proves equally so a demonstration, by that Biawn was a Roman cih, which Apie the proportions and quantities set doun, and the commends as evonderful; its fauce then war nauteousness of the ingredients, that the dinners tard and honey, before the frequest well of the emperors were ordered by their phyficians; ger: nor were fowced hous-feet

, eta beste and that the recipe was taken by the couk, as the ears, unknown to those ages. It is orty proste collegiate doctors would du their bills, to a mo they were got so luperstitious a dern apothecary ; and that this cuítom was taken

great a delicate only at Christmas It mere from the Egyptians; and char this method conti. a dissertation berween two learned perhat, * nued till the Corhs and Vandals over-ran the West were managed with temper and candott

, er det cin Empire; and that they, by use, cxercise, and whether the Britons taught it to the ki.com

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whether Cæfar introduced it into Britain : and it | Petronius has recorded a little old woman, who is strange he should take no noticce of it; where fold the agreste olus of the ancients; which honbut as he has recorded that they did not eat hare's | I take to be as much due to those who in our days Hesh; that the ancients used to marinate their fith, cry nettle tops, elder-buds, and cliver, in springby frying them in oil, and, the moment they were time very wholesome. taken out, pouring boiling vinegar upon them. The fourth book contains the universal art of The learned annotator observes, that the best cookery. As Mathæus Sylvaticus composed the way of keeping the liquor in oysters, is, by laying Pandects of Phylic, and Justinian those of Law; the deep Tell downwards; and by this means A fo Apicius has done the Pandects of his Art, in picius conveyed oysters to Tiberius when in Par this book which bears that inscription. The first thia; a noble invention, since made use of at Col. chapter contains the admirable receipt of a fachelter with most admirable success! What estates | lacacaby of Apicias. Bruise in a portar parsleymight Brawn or Locket have gut in these days, feed, dried pennyroyal, dried mint, ginger, green when Apicius, only for broiling sprouts after a coriander, raisins stoned, honey, vinegar, oil, and new fashion, deservedly came into the good graces wine; put them into a cacabalum; three crusts of Drusus, who then commanded the Roman of pycentine bread, the Aesh of a pullet, goatarmies !

stones, vestine cheese, pine kernele, cucumbers, The first book having treated of sauces or dried onions minced small; pour a foup over tanding pickles for relish, which are used in most it, garnish it with snow, and send it up in the of the succeeding receipts; the second has a glo- cacabulum. This cacabulum being an unusual velrious fubjea, of sausages, both with skins and fel, niy friend went to his dictionary, where, without, which contains matters no less remarkakle finding an odd interpretation of it, he was casily than the former. The ancients that were delicate persuaded, from the whimsicalness of the compoin their eating, prepared their owo mushroonis fition, and the fantasticalness of snow for its garwith an amber, or at least a silver knife; where niture, that the propereft vessel for a physician to the annotator Thews elegantly, against Hardouinus, prescribe, to send to table upon that occasion, that the whole knife, and not only the handle, might be a bed-pan. There are some admirable was of amber, or filver, left the rustiness of an remarks and annotations to the second chapter, ordinary knife might prove infectious. This is a concerning the dialogue of Afellins Sabinus, who nicety which I hope we may in time arrive to; introduces a combat between mushrooms, cbats, for the Britons, though not very forward in in. or beccaficos, oysters, and redwings; a work ventions, yet are outdone by no nations in imita that ought to be published : for the same annotation or improvements.

tor observes, that this ifland is not destitute of The third book is of such edibles as are pro- redwings, though coming to us only in the hardest duced in gardens. The Romans used nitre, to weather, and therefore seldom brought fat to our make their herbs look green; the annotator shows tables; that the cbats come to us in April, and sur saltpetre at present to differ from the ancient breed, and about autumn return to Afric; that nitre. Apicius had a way of mincing them fire experience shews us they may be kept in cages, with oil and salt, and so boiling them; which fed with beef or wedder mutton, figs, grapes, and Pliny commends. But the present receipt is, To minced filberds, being dainties not unworthy the let the water boil well; throw in salt and a bit of care of such as would preserve our British dishes; butter ; and so not only sprouts, but fpinage, will the first delighting in hodge-podge, gallimaufreys, be green. There is a moit extraordinary observa. forced meats, jussels, and salmagundies; the latter tion of the editor's, to which I cannot buc agree; in fpear-ribs, furloins, chines, and barons : and that it is a vulgar error, that walnut trees, like thence our terms of art. both as to dreshng and Russian wives, thrive the better for being beaten ; carving, become very different; for they, lying and that long poles and stones are used by boys and upon a sort of couch, could not have carved thote others to get the fruit down, the walnut tree be dishes which our ancestors when they fac upon ing so very high they could not otherwise reach it, forms used to do. But, fince the use of cushions rather out of kindness to themselves, than any re. and elbow-chairs, and the editions of good books gard to the tree that bears it. As for asparagus, and authors, it may be hoped in time we may there is an excellent remark, that, according to come up to them: For indeed hitherto we have Pliny, they were the great care of the ancient been something to blame; and I believe lew of gardeners, and that at Ravenna three weighed a us have seen a difh of capon-itunes at cable (lamb. pound; but that in England it was thought ftones is acknowledged by the learned annotator rarity when a hundred of them weighed thirty; that we have); for the art of making capons has that cucumbers are apt to rife in the stomach, long been buried in oblivion. Varro, the great unless pared, or boiled with oil, vinegar, and ho. Ronan antiquary, tells us how to do it by burnDey; that the Egyptiane would drink hard with | ing off their ipurs; which, occafioning their stea out any disturbance, because it was a rule for rility, makes them capons in effect, though those them to have always boiled cabbage for their firit parts thereby became more large and tender. difh at supper ; that the best way to roast onions The fifth book is of peale-porridge: urcler is in colewore leaves, for fear of burning them; / which are included, frumetary, water-gruel, milkthat beets are good for smiths, because they, porridge, rice-milk, fiumary, stir-abetit, and the working at the fre are generally coltive; that like. The Latin or rather Greek name is Ara

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Sprios; but my friend was pleased to entitle it the sweetest of any animal, its natural seas contri Pantagruel, a name used by Rabelais, an entinent buting to that excellence. Though the eruperera physician. There are some very remarkable things and mobility had parks to fatten them in ; yet ia in it; as, the emporor Julianus had seldom any the time of Didianus Julianus, if any one had ser: thing but spoon-meat at lupper : that the herb him one, or a pig, he would make it laứ ba fenugreek, with pickles, oil, and wine, was a Roo three days; whereas Alexander Severus bade: man dainty; upon which the annotator observes, every meal, which must have been a great capesca that it is not used in our kitchens, for a certain and is very semalable. But the most exquifits ungrateful bitterness that it has; and that it is i animal was reserved for the last chapter; and that plainly a physical diet, that will give a stool; and was the dormouse, a harmless creature, whose indothat, mixed with oats, it is the best purge for cence might at least have defended it both from horses: an excellent invention for frugality, that cooks and physicians. But Apicius found out a nothing mighe be lost; for what the Lord did not odd sort of fate for those poor creatures; fonte to eat, he mighe fend to his stable !

bc boned, and others to be put whole, with me The sixth book treats of wild-fowl; how to ingredients, into logs-outs, and so boiled for laa. dress oftridges (the biggest, grosfelt, and inost dif- sages. In ancient times, penple made it their beso ficult of digestion, of any bird), phænicoptrices, finess to fatren them. Aristotle rightly obieres, parrots, &c.

at sleep fattened them; and Martial from The seventh book treats of things fumptious thence too poetically tells us, that leep was the and costly, and therefore chiefly concerning bore only nourishment. But the annoiator has ckared meat; in which the Romans came to that exceis, that point : he, good man, has tenderly observed that the laws fo:bad the usage of hogs-harflet, one of them for many years, and finds that is does Iwcet-breads, cheeks, &c. at their public suppers; not leep all the winter, as falsely reported, bet and Cato, when censor, fought to restrain the ex wakes at meals, and after its repast then rells ttravagant use of Brawn, by several of his orations, self up in a ball to sleep. This dormouse, accordo So much regard was had then to the Art of ing to the author, did not drink in three years Cookery, that we see it took place in the thoughts time; but whether other dormice do so, I canes of the wiseft men, and bore a part in their most tell, because Bamboufelbergius's Treatise o iniportant councils. But, alas: the degeneracy “ Fattening Dormice" is loft. Though rut of our present age is such, that I believe few bee costly, they became a common dish as great a lides the annotator know the excellency of a virgin tertainments. Petronius delivers us an odd refow, especially of the black kind brought from ceipt for dresing them, and serving them up China ; and how to make the most of her liver, poppies and honey; which must be a very scopo lights, brains, and pettitocs; and to vary her into riferous dainty, and as good as owl-pye to such as those fifty dishes which Pliny fuys were usually want a nap after dinner. The foodness of the made of that delicious creaturc. Besides, Galen Romans (ame to be so exceflive towards them, tells us more of its excellencies : “ That fellow that, as Priny says," the cenforian laws, and “ that eats bacon for two or three days before he “ Marcus Scaurus in his consullip, got them is to box or wrenle, shall be much stronger “ prohibited from public entertainmenis." Bat " than if he should eat the best roait beef or bag Nero, Conimodus, and Heliogabalos, would nc pudding in the parish."

deny the liberty, and indeed property, of thes The cighth book treats of such diinties as four. fubje&o in so reafonable an enjoyment; and that footed beasts afford us; as, 1. the wild boar, which fore we find them long after brought to table in they used to boil with all its bristles on.

the times of Ammianus Marcellinus, who tells u dirt, drefied with broth made with pepper, wine, liikewise, that “ fiales were brought to table in honey, oil, and stewed damsons, &c.

“ those ages, to weigh curious fishes, birds, and will focep, of which there are “innumerable in “ dormice," to see whether they were at the “ the mountains of Yorkshire and Westmorland, standard of excellence and perfection, and soms “ that will let nobody handle them;" but, if they times, I suppose, to vie with other pretenders te are caught, they are to be sent up with an “ ele- magnificence. The annotator cakes hold of this

gant fauce, prescribed after a physical manner, occasion, to Thew " of how great use scales would “ in form of an ele&uary, made of pepper, rue, “ be at the tables of our nobility," especially ipa “ parsley-feed, juniper, thyme dried, mint, penny. on the bringing up of a dish of wild-fowl: “ Far, " royal, honey, &c." with which any apothecary “ if twelve larks (says he) should weigh below in that country can furnish you.

4. Beef, with

“ cwelve ounces, they would be very lean, and onion fauce, and commended by Cellus, but not “ scarce tolerable; if twelve, and dowa weight, much approved by Hippocrates, because the " they would be very well; but, if thirteen, they Greeks scarce knew how to make oxen, and pow “ would be fat to perfe&ion.” We see upon how dering tubs were in very few families : for phyfi. nice and exact a balance the happiness of eating cians have been very peculiar in their diet in all depends ! ages; otherwise Galen would scarce have found I could scarce forbear smiling, not to say worse

, out that young foxes were in season in autumin. at such exactness and such dainties; and cold my 5. The fucking pig boiled in paper. 6. The bare, friend, that those scales would be of extraordinary the chief of the Roman dainties; its blood being use at Dunstable; and that, if the annotaro bad

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not prescribed his dormoufe, I should upon the giving an excellent relish to Burton ale, and noť first occasion be glad to visit it, if I knew its vi- costing above sixpence, an inconsiderable price for diting days and hours, so as not to disturb it. 10 iniperial a dainty!

My friend said, there remained but two books The tenth book, as my friend tells me, is conmore, one of sea, and the other of river fish; in cerning fub fuuces, which consist of variety of inche account of which he would not be long, secing gredients, amongst which is generally a kind of his memory begau to fail him almost as much as frumetary. Bue it is not co be forgotten by any my patience.

person who would boil fish exactly, that they threw

them alive into the water, which at present is said * "Tis true, in a long work, soft Numbers creep, to be a Dutch receipt, but was derived froin the ' And gently link the artist into sleep ;" Romans. It seems, Seneca the philosopher (a mai

froni whose morose temper little good in the art specially when treating of dormice.

of cookery could be expected), in his third book The ninth book is concerning sea fish; where, of Natural Questions, correcting the luxury of the mongst other learned annotations, is recorded times, says, the Romans were come to that daintihat famous voyage of Apicius, who, having spent ness, that they would not eat a filh unless upon nany millions, and being retired into Canıpania, the same day it was taken, “that it might taste heard that there were lobsters of a vast and unusual

" of the sea," as they expressed it; and therefore vigness in Africa, and thereupon impatiently got had them brought by persons who rode post, and · in shipboard the same day; and, having fuffered

made a great outcry, whereupon all other people nuch at fea, cane at laat w the coast. But the

were obliged to give them the road. It was an ame of so great a man's coming had landed before usual expression for a Roman to say, “ In other aim, and all the fishermen failed out to meet him,

“marters I may confide in you; but in a thing of ind presenred him with their fairelt lobsters. He

" this weighe, it is not consistent with my gravity ked, if they had no larger. They answered,

" and prudence. I will trust nothing but my own • Their sea produced nothing more excellent than

eyes. Bring the fish hither, let me see him what they had brought.” This bonest freedom " breathe his last." And, when the poor fish was of theirs, with his disappointment, so disgusted him, brought to table swimming and gaiping, would hat he took pet, and bade the matter return home

cry out,“ Nothing is more beautiful than a dying gain immediately: and so, it seems, Africa lost

mullet!" My friend says, the annotator looks he breed of one monster more than it had beforet: upon these “ as jests made by the stoics, and l'here are many receipts in the book, to dress

"fpoken absurdly and beyond nature;” though Tamp-fish, that numb the hands of those that

the annotator at the same time tells us, that it was ouch them; the cutile-fith, whose blood is like

a law at Athens, that the fishermen Mhould not nk; the pourcentrel, or many-feet; the fca-u-chin, wath their fish, but bring them as they came out or hedge-hoz; with several others, whose fauces

of the sea. Happy were the Athenians in good tre agreeable to their natures. But, to the con laws, and the Romans in great examples! But ort of us moderns, the ancients often are their

I believe our Britons need wilh their friends no ysters alive, and spread hard eggs minced over longer life, than till they fee London served with heir (prats as we do now over our falt-fish. There live herrings and gasping mackarel. It is true, -- one thing very curious concerning' herrings: 11

we are not quite so ba, barous but that we throw eems, the ancients were very fantaitical, in mak

our crabs alive into scalding water, and tie our ng one thing pass for another; 1o, at Petroniui's lobsters to the spit to hear them squeak when they upper, the cook sent up a fat goose, fish, and

are roatted ; our eels use the same peristaltic movild fowl of all sorts to appearance, but till all

tion upon the gridiron, when their kin is off and were made out of the several puts of one single their guts are out, as they did before ; and our pas ker. The great Nicomedes, king of Bithynia, gudgeons, taking opportunity of jumping after nad a very delightful deception of this nature put

they are flowered, give occasion to the admirable apon him by his cook : the king was extremely

remark of some persons' folly, when, to avoid the atfected with fresh herrings; (as indeed who is

danger of the frying-pan, they leap into the fire. hoc ?) but, being far up in Asia from the sea-coast, My friend said, that the mention of cels put him nis whole wealth could not have purchased one; in mind of the concluding remark of the annotabut his cook contrived some sort of meat, which,

“ That they who amongst the Sybarites would put into a frame, so refembled a herring, that it “ fish for cels, or sell them, iliould be free from all was extremely fatisfactory both to this prince's

" taxes." I was glad to hear of the word conclude; eyes and gusto. My friend told me, that, to the and told him nothing could be more acceptable to honour of the city of London, he had seen a thing

me than the mention of the Sybarites, of whom ! of this nature there; that is, a herring, or rather a

fhortly intend a history, shewing how they dem almogundy, with the head and tail so neatly laid, fervedly banished cocks for waking them in a that it surprized him. He fays, many of the fpe morning, and smiths for being useful; how one -ies may be found at the Sugar Loaf in Bell Yard, as

cried out becausc one of the rose-leaves he lay on

was rumpled; how they taught their horses to Art of Cnokery, ver. 449. + Lord Lyttelton'. Nincieenth “Dialogue of the Dead” dance; and so their enemies, coming against thein perhaps the moit humourous in that admirable collection with guitars and harpsichords, set them to upon their

ems to have been entirely founded on the hints fuggested rounder's and minuets, that the form of their battle by Dr, King.

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was broken, and three hundred thousand of them, of any thing better, should be a falacacaby, a cís Dain, as Gouldman, Littleton, and several other of fenugreek, a wild-Theep's head and appartenance good authors, affirm. I told my friend, I had with a suitable electuary, a ragout of capon's hose, much overstayed my hour ; but if, at any time, he and some dormouse sausages. would find Dick Humelbergius, Caspar Barthius, If, as friends do with one another at a venicoand another friend, with himself, I would invite party, you should feod for a plate, you know you him to dinner of a few but choice dishes to cover may command it; for what is mine is yours, a the table at once, which, except they would think being entirely your, &c.

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