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western world in the animal kingdom. The jackasses have the same brazen lungs as those in the far west. And the pathetic cries of those in our vicinity, rending the air with their laments, as if to break their hearts outright, made us believe they were inquiring about their nomadic relatives in the Americas. It may be interesting to modern Greek scholars to know that, according to my friend Black, the noise these creatures make is designated as γαδαρόφονη, which being rendered into the vulgate, meaneth yaðapósass, pov-sound.

It was past nine o'clock when we threw ourselves from the backs of our trusty steeds, at the gate of the Hôtel d'Angleterre, and were pressed to the scarlet-clad bosom of our host Elias, the ci-devant courier of Saint Etienne.

We made a light and hasty dinner, paid the score, which cleaned us out, and summoning a coach, we rattled out of the town, toward the Piræus. I was seated on the box behind the driver, who appeared to me in the twilight like the Jack of Diamonds, and I have an imperfect recollection of falling asleep and being suddenly jolted awake, and escaping a fall beneath the wheels every few seconds, until we stopped at the Pirate's domain. There we had a bowl of lemonade, and then, by way of precaution, I put an arm through the loose embroidered sleeve of the coachman's jacket; so that, if I tumbled off the perch, he would share the same fate. Thus I rode soundly and safely asleep, to the Port, where, after a saddle ride of about forty-five miles, a little tramping afoot, and not a copper in our purses, we pulled on board the Frigate.

Chapter IX.

"We may roam thro' this world like a child at a feast,
Who but sips of a sweet, and then flies to the rest:
And when pleasure begins to grow dull in the East,
We may order our wings and be off to the West."

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TOWARDS the close of our sojourn in Greece, we were presented at court. At the appointed hour, our party, six

teen in number, drew up at the north front of the palace. This structure is a great, dreary, square marble box, with holes in it, and entirely destitute of architectural beauty. The site is not badly chosen-on a slight elevation facing the Acropolis-and it has a garden on both fronts. One of them is planted over ruins of some antiquity, and, by great labor, irrigation, and expense, the leaves of shrubs and flowers are made tolerably green and bright.

We passed up a broad, winding marble staircase, and, traversing a long, lonely corridor, were shown into an anteroom; a square apartment, gaily painted on walls and ceilings, and the floor laid in mosaic of dark polished wood.

Presently the door opened, and in came a puny, bodkinwaisted gentleman, with a narrow head, and sharp, irregular features, who was announced as Chamberlain to the Queen. He spoke nothing but Greek; and as the education of most of us in that branch of learning had been neglected, that is, in a conversational way, a very few words were interchanged; we had time, however, to admire his costume, which was a master-piece of art.

During a pause, a pair of folding-doors opened, and the order of our procession being arranged, we followed our minister into the reception-room. It was of similar dimensions to the one we had left, except, that the light was thrown from the eastern angle through two lofty windows, between which stood a crowned, carved, and gilded chair of state. A magnificent Turkey rug and a few chairs constituted all the furniture.

We formed a semicircle. The Queen stood in the centre, and a lady with skinny, bare arms, possibly of remote origin,

was placed a few paces off, and did not budge during the ceremony. The Queen was very becomingly attired in a simple half dress. She wore a light wreath of green buds and red flowers over the smooth bands of her brown hair. The dress was cut low, with short sleeves, and in my fancy perhaps, or to my inexperienced vision, it seemed rather tightly laced; but yet it developed a full bust and roundlyturned arms. The color of the dress was light green, and of the flimsy gossamer fabric that ladies usually wear in the summer. The feet were clothed in black satin shoes. The toilette was completed by a necklace and bracelet of fine pearls. I remembered when her majesty's waist was thinner; when a light, gay, sprightly, pretty, young bride, she first came to Greece; but though twice seven years had drifted by since, she was still a very handsome woman, comfortably embonpoint, with fine teeth, eyes, hair, and complexion.

So soon as we had taken our position, the Queen glided gracefully up to our Ambassador-for she had no one to assist her in the presentations—and, with a very winning smile and animated face, began the conversation. She chatted easily and pleasantly on a variety of topics; the antiquities, the bathing, the views, the king's health, and the Turks. She spoke so sweetly, too, of the heat, that I almost wished myself a salamander, so as never to have the ungraciousness to complain again. From the Minister, she moved on around the line of blue-jackets, complimenting the Commander-in-chief, and making some little appropriate speech with infinite tact to each. At the end of her tour, she returned again to the Ambassador, smiled, courtesied the

reception over, and we all glissée'd backwards with many a bow out of her presence.

As the doors to the ante-chamber were closing, I caught a glimpse of the Queen as she ran up to the antique attendant, and, throwing up her hands and laughing, evidently asked if she had not made a favorable impression upon the Yankees. In my opinion, she decidedly did; and I thought her Majesty a very well-bred and captivating woman; though, I trust, I am not overstepping the limits of courtly phrase, by speaking of this Royal personage as a mere mortal.

The chamberlain received our final adieux, and we left the palace.

It may not be out of place to mention here, that there was a dinner given a few days after at the Otho palace; but I regret to add, that I was not invited with the other distinguished persons who composed the party. I acquit her Majesty, however, of all intentional blame or slight in the transaction. It was the Lord Chamberlain himself who deprived me of a good dinner, because I was not a major, he said. The delusion he appeared to struggle under was, that our marine was modelled upon the Mexican army system, more generals than troops--more captains than sailors; and, moreover, he forgot, that an aid-de-camp goes with his chief to battle or dinner, as the case may be.

Again, it was a piece of unmitigated cruelty on the part of the chamberlain functionary, who presumed, perhaps, on account of his own slimness and tightness of waist, which was a physical obstacle to taking food without violent effort, that I, too, would not be distressed at the loss of a dinner. In that

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