fertility, in the words of the sacred writers, is often considered as that of a fruitful field.* We have also a strong proof of the high estimation in which the pastures of Carmel and other elevations were held among the ancient Jews, as the cattle which grazed in them were peculiarly distinguished for strength and fatness. Uzziah, one of the kings of Jerusalem, a lover of agriculture, who was possessed of numerous flocks in different parts of the country had many of them here. There is a delightful scent upon it of wild and aromatic herbs, or, as it has been said, its "flowery top perfumes the skies ;" but, in the language of the prophet, "the flower of Carmel languisheth." A curious description of stones are found here, which resemble fruit; in consequence, as I was gravely assured by the monk, of some act of Elias; and, extraordinary as it may appear, they are frequently used as antidotes to diseases, but I could not discover any of them upon the mount. Perhaps the comparison of the bride's dress to Carmel was derived from the sprigs of jewellery and branches of precious stones which adorned it. Lewis visited it in 1254 and took one of the Carmelite friars from the monastery to France. Waterspouts are frequently seen off this spot. Standing on such ground, it was impossible not to feel a sacred awe, in reflecting on the victory of Jehovah over Baal through the zeal of Elijah, when the river Kishon ran red to the sea with the blood of the false priests.§ But the great object here which attracts the religious traveller is a cave, believed to be that in which the prophet concealed himself from the persecution of Ahab and Jezebel || after he had caused four hundred and fifty of these priests to be sacrificed near the river. Caves and places of concealment must undoubtedly have been here at an early period. It was here the Shunamite woman had an interview with * 1 Sam. xxv. 2. § 1 Kings, xviii. † 2 Chron. xxvi, 10. 1 Kings, xix. 9. Nahum, i. 4. Elisha, whose son was restored to life on the intercessions he offered up to God in his behalf.* From the top of this mountain, which it may be observed is a great landmark for mariners, an extensive prospect presents itself of the mighty ocean, and the snowy heights of Lebanon towering above the summits of other mountains, with Acre and the surrounding country. The ruins of Cesarea are about twenty miles to the southward of this promontory. After I had descended, the monk conducted me over an extensive wood-yard, and pointed out the various operations he was engaged in; and I was amazed at perceiving from his conversation, that things temporal had a much stronger hold of his mind than those of an unseen and eternal nature. I remunerated him for his trouble, and returned to the convent in the evening. Next day, on taking my last walk about Acre, an incident occurred, which held out to me a warning against rashly judging from appearances. In going along one of the public streets a small procession approached; and, as it drew near, I perceived it excited a particular sensation among the spectators, who regarded it with a very grave expression of countenance. From this I inferred that such respect must be paid to some distinguished personage and his attendants who formed the group. It proved, however, to be a well-dressed elderly gentleman, of a serious and venerable aspect, who walked at a slow pace, with four attendants of a very different appearance. On inquiry, I was informed that this person was no other than the principal executioner, accompanied by his functionaries. The profound respect his appearance produced, I was disposed to think must have been either owing to his particular rank, or superior virtues, or to his being commanded to attend at the palace of the pacha, to receive instructions respecting * There was an order established in France, in 1607, called "The Virgin of Mount Carmel." some deed of death. Shortly afterwards another singular circumstance occurred, not a little calculated to associate ludicrous images with feelings of a painful nature. Happening to pass without the walls of Acre, and near to the gate by which I had entered it on coming from Nazareth, upon which the heads of two miserable persons had been struck off some days preceding for robbery, I saw a butcher, under the very gallows, killing and cutting up with characteristic sangfroid a couple of calves, which he hung up, in expectation of customers, in these novel shambles. A short while previous to my visit, the pacha had been for about twelve months in a state of rebellion against the Grand Seignior, and Acre was besieged by the ruler of Damascus ; but the place was sufficiently strong to resist any attempt that was made to capture it. Owing to the interposition of the wise ruler of Egypt, a cessation of hostilities took place, which was followed by negociation, and a pardon was granted to the pacha of Acre, on condition that he paid to the Porte a fine, amounting to about sixty thousand pounds sterling. This sum was levied by contributions on the population within his jurisdiction, and under circumstances of such extreme rapacity and severity, that many emigrated to Egypt, who were, of course, received by Mahomed Ali with open arms. In that quarter they received every encouragement from him, whose grand object has always been to increase the population of his country, so as to carry into effect the vast schemes he has in view; thus promoting the prosperity of Egypt and augmenting his own internal resources. be Before concluding this imperfect sketch of St. Jean d'Acre, it may be mentioned, that there are three different roads leading from it to Jerusalem, either of which may taken by travellers, according to the particular object they have in view. One of these runs along the coast by Cesarea and Joppa; a second by Nazareth; and another, in the middle between them, goes by the great plain of Esdraelon and Samaria. The last is considered as the shortest and most direct route; but let travellers be on their guard ín taking it, since they may be subjected, as I was, to the insult and barbarity of him who, as I formerly mentioned, is the rebel of the mountains. On the 10th of March the thermometer stood here at 75° of Fahrenheit. CHAP. V. DEPARTURE FOR TYRE. AQUEDUCT NEAR ACRE. ARRIVAL AT RUINS. ITS FOR MER SPLENDOUR CONTRASTED WITH ITS PRESENT DESOLATION. REFLECTIONS ON THE PRIDE OF THE OPULENT MERCHANT. SUPPER WITH THE ARCHBISHOP OF TYRE.ACCOMMODATION AT HIS HOUSE. LOADED with the caresses of the monks, I took my departure from Acre, after leaving alms for the poor of the convent, and directed my course to Tyre, where I passed an aqueduct, of recent construction, for supplying the city with water, and at the distance of two miles from it. I then travelled along a plain between the mountains and sea, upon the shore of which I observed Zib, the Achzib alluded to in the sacred volume.* In the course of this journey, the most striking object of attraction was a stupendous rock, over which a road has been cut, many parts of which are only a few feet in breadth; and it is most laborious to ascend, being almost perpendicular. From the summit a beautiful landscape is displayed, which, as the chalky substance it consists of renders it conspicuous at a distance, is adopted as a landmark, and has in consequence received the appellation of the "White Promontory." This way is said to have been formed by Alexander the Great; but when the prodigious trade of Tyre, and its * Josh. xix. 29. Judges, i. 29-31. Micah, i. 14. |