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CHAPTER W.

Ocean IC DELTAs.

Oceanic deltas—Deltas of the Ganges and Burrampooter—Its size—Rate of advance, and nature of its deposits—Formation and destruction of islands—Abundance of crocodiles—Inundations—Delta of the Mississippi (p. 228.)—Deposits of drift wood–Gradual filling up of the Yellow Sea—Estimate of the quantity of mud carried down by the Ganges—Formation of valleys illustrated by the growth of deltas–Grouping of new strata in general (p. 232.)—Convergence of deltas—Conglomerates—Various causes of stratification—Direction of laminae—Remarks on the interchange of land and sea.

THE remaining class of deltas are those in which rivers, on entering the sea, are exposed to the influence of the tides. In this case it frequently happens that an estuary is produced, or negative delta, as Rennell termed it, where, instead of any encroachment of the land upon the sea, the ocean enters the river's mouth, and penetrates into the land beyond the general coastline. where this happens, the tides and currents are the predominating agents in the distribution of transported sediment. The phenomena, therefore, of such estuaries, will be treated of when the movements of the ocean come under consideration. But whenever the volume of fresh water is so great as to counteract and almost neutralize the force of tides and currents, and in all cases where these agents have not sufficient power to remove to a distance the whole of the sediment periodically brought down by rivers, oceanic deltas are produced. Of these, I shall now select a few illustrative examples. Delta of the Ganges.—The Ganges and the Burrampooter descend, from the highest mountains in the world, into a gulf which runs 225 miles into the continent. The Burrampooter is somewhat the larger river of the two; but it first takes the name of the Megna when joined by a smaller stream so called, and afterwards loses this second name on its union with the Ganges, at the distance of about forty miles from the sea. The area of the delta of the Ganges (without including that of the Burrampooter, which has now become conterminous) is considerably more than double that of the Nile; and its head commences at a distance of 220 miles, in a direct line from the sea. Its base is 200 miles in length, including the space occupied by the two great arms of the Ganges which bound it on either side. The part of the delta which borders on the sea is composed of a labyrinth of rivers and creeks, all filled with salt water, except those immediately communicating with the principal arm of the Ganges. This tract alone, known by the name of the Woods, or

Sunderbunds, a wilderness infested by tigers and alligators, is, according to Rennell, equal in extent to the whole principality of Wales." On the sea-coast there are eight great openings, each of which has evidently, at some ancient period, served in its turn as the principal channel of discharge. Although the flux and reflux of the tide extend even to the head of the delta when the river is low, yet, when it is periodically swollen by tropical rains, the velocity of the stream counteracts the tidal current, so that, except very near the sea, the ebb and flow become insensible. During the flood season, therefore, the Ganges almost assumes the character of a river entering a lake or inland sea; the movements of the ocean being then subordinate to the force of the river, and only slightly disturbing its operations. The great gain of the delta in height and area takes place during the inundations; and, during other seasons of the year, the ocean makes reprisals, scouring out the channels, and sometimes devouring rich alluvial plains. So great is the quantity of mud and sand poured by the Ganges into the gulf in the flood season, that the sea only recovers its transparency at the distance of sixty miles from the coast. The general slope, therefore, of the new strata must be extremely gradual. By the charts recently published, it appears that there is a gradual deepening from four to about sixty fathoms, as we proceed from the base of the delta to the distance of about one hundred miles into the Bay of Bengal. At some few points seventy, or even one hundred, sathoms are obtained at that distance. One remarkable exception, however, occurs to the regularity of the shape of the bottom; for, opposite the middle of the delta, at the distance of thirty or forty miles from the coast, is a nearly circular space called the “swatch of no ground,” about fifteen miles in diameter, where soundings of 100, and even 130, sathoms fail to reach the bottom. This phenomenon is the more extraordinary, since the depression occurs within five miles of the line of shoals; and not only do the waters charged with Gangetic sediment pass over it continually ; but, during the monsoons, the sea, loaded with mud and sand, is beaten back in that direction towards the delta. As the mud is known to extend for eighty miles farther into the gulf, we may be assured that, in the course of ages, the accumulation of strata in “the swatch” has been of enormous thickness; and we seem entitled to deduce, from the present depth at the spot, that the original inequalities of the bottom of the Bay of Bengal were on a grand scale, and comparable to those of the main ocean. Opposite the mouth of the Hoogly river, and immediately south of Sangor Island, four miles from the nearest land of the delta, a new islet was

"Account of the Ganges and Burrampooter Rivers, by Major Rennell, Phil. Trans. 1781. Vol. I.-2 D

formed about twenty years ago, called Edmonstone Island, on the centre of which a beacon was erected as a land-mark in 1817. In 1818 the island had become two miles long and half a mile broad, and was covered with vegetation and shrubs. Some houses were then built upon it, and in 1820 it was used as a pilot station. The severe gale of 1823 divided it into two parts, and so reduced its size as to leave the beacon standing out in the sea, where, after remaining seven years, it was washed away. At length the islet has been converted by successive storms into a sandbank. Although there is evidence of gain at some points, the general progress of the coast is very slow; for the tides, which rise from thirteen to sixteen feet, are actively employed in removing the alluvial matter, and diffusing it over a wide area. The new strata consist entirely of sand and fine mud ; such, at least, are the only materials which are exposed to view in regular beds on the banks of the numerous creeks. No substance so coarse as gravel occurs in any part of the delta, nor nearer the sea than 400 miles. It should be observed, however, that the superficial alluvial beds, which are thrown down rapidly from turbid waters during the floods, may be very distinct from those deposited at a great distance from the shore, where crystalline precipitates, perhaps, are forming, on the evaporation of so great a surface, exposed to the rays of a tropical sun. The separation of sand and other matter, held in mechanical suspension, may take place where the waters are in motion; but mineral ingredients, held in chemical solution, would naturally be carried to a greater distance, where they may aid in the formation of corals and shells, and, in part, perhaps, become the cementing principle of rocky masses. A well was sunk at Fort William, Calcutta, in the hope of obtaining water, through beds of adhesive clay, to the depth of 146 feet. A bed of yellow sand was then entered, and at the depth of 152 feet another stratum of clay.* Islands formed and destroyed.—Major R. H. Colebrooke, in his account of the course of the Ganges, relates examples of the rapid filling up of some of its branches, and the excavation of new channels, where the number of square miles of soil removed in a short time (the column of earth being 114 feet high) was truly astonishing. Forty square miles, or 25,600 acres, are mentioned as having been carried away in one place in the course of a few years.f The immense transportation of earthy matter by the Ganges and Megna is proved by the great magnitude of the islands formed in their channels during a period far short of that of a man's life. Some of these, many miles in extent, have originated in large sand-banks thrown up round the points at the angular turning of the

* See India Gazette, June 9, 1831.
f Trans. of the Asiatic Society, vol. vii. p. 14.

river, and afterwards insulated by breaches of the stream. Others, formed in the main channel, are caused by some obstruction at the bottom. A large tree, or a sunken boat, is sometimes sufficient to check the current, and cause a deposit of sand, which accumulates till it usurps a considerable portion of the channel. The river then borrows on each side to supply the deficiency in its bed, and the island is afterwards raised by fresh deposits during every flood. In the great gulf below Luckipour, formed by the united waters of the Ganges and Burrampooter (or Megna), some of the islands, says Rennell, rival in size and fertility the Isle of Wight. While the river is forming new islands in one part, it is sweeping away old ones in others. Those newly formed are soon overrun with reeds, long grass, the Tamarix Indica, and other shrubs, forming impenetrable thickets, where tigers, buffalos, deer, and other wild animals, take shelter. It is easy, therefore, to perceive, that both animal and vegetable remains must continually be precipitated into the flood, and sometimes become imbedded in the sediment which subsides in the delta. Two species of crocodiles, of distinct genera, abound in the Ganges and its tributary and contiguous waters; and Mr. H. T. Colebrooke informs me that he has seen both kinds in places far inland, many hundred miles from the sea. The Gangetic crocodile, or Gavial (in correct orthography, Garial), is confined to the fresh water, but the common crocodile frequents both fresh and salt; being much larger and fiercer in salt and brackish water. These animals swarm in the brackish water along the line of sand-banks where the advance of the delta is most rapid. Hundreds of them are seen together in the creeks of the delta, or basking in the sun on the shoals without. They will attack men and cattle, destroying the natives when bathing, and tame and wild animals which come to drink. “I have not unfrequently,” says Mr. Colebrooke, “been witness to the horrid spectacle of a floating corpse seized by a crocodile with such avidity, that he half emerged above the water with his prey in his mouth.” The geologist will not fail to observe how peculiarly the habits and distribution of these saurians expose them to become imbedded in the horizontal strata of fine mud, which are annually deposited over many hundred square miles in the Bay of Bengal. The inhabitants of the land, which happen to be drowned or thrown into the water, are usually devoured by these voracious reptiles; but we may suppose the remains of the saurians themselves to be continually entombed in the new formations. Inundations.—It sometimes happens, at the season when the periodical flood is at its height, that a strong gale of wind, conspiring with a high spring-tide, checks the descending current of the river, and gives rise to most destructive inundations. From this cause, in the year 1763, the waters at Luckipour rose six feet above their ordinary level, and the inhabitants of a considerable district, with their houses and cattle, were totally swept away. The population of all oceanic deltas are particularly exposed to suffer by such catastrophes, recurring at considerable intervals of time; and we may safely assume that such tragical events have happened again and again since the Gangetic delta was inhabited by man. If human experience and forethought cannot always guard against these calamities, still less can the inserior animals avoid them; and the monuments of such disastrous inundations must be looked for in great abundance in strata of all ages, if the surface of our planet has always been governed by the same laws. When we reflect on the general order and tranquillity that reigns in the rich and populous delta of Bengal, notwithstanding the havoc occasionally committed by the depredations of the ocean, we perceive how unnecessary it is to attribute the imbedding of successive races of animals in older strata to extraordinary energy in the causes of decay and reproduction in the infancy of our planet, or to those general catastrophes and sudden revolutions resorted to by some theorists. Delta of the Mississippi.-As the delta of the Ganges may be considered a type of those formed on the borders of the ocean, it will be unnecessary to accumulate examples of others on a no less magnificent scale, as, for example, at the mouths of the Orinoco and Amazon. To these, however, I shall revert by-and-by, when treating of the agency of currents. The tides of the Mexican Gulf are so feeble, that the delta of the Mississippi has somewhat of an intermediate character between an oceanic and mediterranean delta. A long narrow tongue of land is protruded, consisting simply of the banks of the river, wearing precisely the same appearance as in the inland plains during the periodical inundations, when nothing appears above water but the higher part of the sloping glacis before described.” This tongue of land has advanced many leagues since New Orleans was built. Great submarine deposits are also in progress, stretching sar and wide over the bottom of the sea, which has become extremely shallow, not exceeding ten fathoms in depth. Opposite the mouth of the Mississippi large rafts of drist trees brought down every spring, are matted together into a net-work many yards in thickness, and stretching over hundreds of square leagues.t They afterwards become covered over with a fine mud, on which other layers of trees are deposited the year following, until numerous alternations of earthy and vegetable matter are accumulated. .Alternation of Deposits.-An observation of Darby, in regard to the strata composing part of this delta, deserves attention. In the steep banks of the Atchafalaya, an arm of the Mississippi before alluded to in our description of “the rast,” the following section is observable at low

* Chapter II. t Captain Hall's Travels in North America, vol. iii. p. 338.—See also ante. p. 182.

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