LETTER XXXIX. TO EDGAR GARSTON, ESQ. MY DEAR SIR, Alexandria, Oct. 26, 1827. THE traveller who approaches Jerusalem from Jaffa is amply repaid for the toil and peril of the route, by one of the most splendid prospects his eye has ever dwelt upon, He has passed through a scene of sterility, hardly to be equalled, from Ramah to Jerusalem, he has heard of nothing but the desolation of the Holy City, hẹ has read of little in its modern history but of its miserable aspect, and all at once a noble city rises on his view, with stately walls and lofty towers, and studded with glittering domes of mosques and monasteries. It is indeed a glorious sight, and the very Arab who accompanied me greeted the Holy City (for such the Arabs call it) with all the fervour of admiration; "Quies el cods wallah, quies kitir!" he exclaimed, "How beautiful, oh God, is the Holy City! how very beautiful!" Every pilgrim, let his enthusiasm be ever so different from that of those who profess to visit Jerusalem from the suggestions of piety, or perhaps of superstition, must own there is an atmosphere of melancholy magnificence around the structure of Jerusalem, and a death-like stillness in the streets, which he never before observed in the abodes of the living, and which give an air of sanctity to the site of the Temple, and a soul, as it were, to the religion of the place which enshrines the Sepulchre of Christ. Few travellers, except such as visit Palestine to rail against monastic institutions, who see nothing but the horrors of papacy in the sanctuaries of Jerusalem, and who journey from Jordan to Siloa with a sort of religious monomania which paints nothing on their retina but the informous images of monks, and causes nothing to vibrate on their tympanum but the appalling sounds of the mass-bell; few travellers I say, except such as these, visit the spot which is connected with the history of their religion, LINES WRITTEN IN JERUSALEM. 325 without having their feelings powerfully excited; mine were so, and I gave them words in the form which my mind first presented, and unworthy of the subject as they are I send them to you. LINES WRITTEN IN JERUSALEM. DAUGHTER of Zion! doomed from age to age To prove the truth of the unerring page; "Mournful, oh Zion! are thy ways" indeed, 66 They come not to thy feasts," the chosen seed And foes and infidels alone increased. Where is the regal splendour of thy brow? Is the tall mosque to tell the sacred spot Where stood the house of God? which now stands not. Is the proud Moslem still to stride the throne Of Royal David, and his glorious son? Is "the fine gold of Ophir" to be found Father of mercy, graciously ordain Direct the weak, the wicked overawe, Though rancour reigns, where Christian peace alone And sense revolts at Superstition's mien ; Which fain would spurn devotion from the tomb Far from me may that apathy still be, Assumed or not, which scorns to bend the knee Still, while I take my solitary round, Survey the wonders of this sacred ground, Pause to refer each ruin to the work And though the wreck of matter all around |