SINGULAR STREETS OF SAFED.

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all!" The plain interpretation of which is, that every Arab must assist his brother to cheat. But our host is a Christian, and informs us that our dragoman is deceiving us when he says it is six hours' ride to Tell Houm, to which we wish to travel to-day it is only four. "He wants to make a day out of you: he is not a good man." After dinner, accompanied by our kind host, we visit the bazaars and streets, where there are ruins upon ruins formed by the terrible earthquake of 1837, when five thousand persons perished. The houses have square tops, and are built on hills with occasional depressions intervening. But the characteristic feature of the town is found in the fact that many of the flat roofs of the houses form pavements for the streets still higher up the hills; so that while walking in some of the streets you are passing immediately over the heads of some taking their meals in the rooms under your feet.

Near the cemetery we met a portly native, with whom Tamus had a short conversation, the result of which was that we agreed to take him as guide to Tell Houm in case our present guide declined visiting the place. His reward was to be thirty piastres (about 5s.)

It will be easily understood from what cause the earthquake in 1837 destroyed so many of the inhabitants. The fall of one house would have crushed the one beneath, even had it survived the terrible force of the earthquake. The horrible distress which followed this catastrophe can scarcely be imagined by any one not present at the time. Something may be learned from the facts that many-perhaps three thousand-remained several days without food or attendance, and one man was actually covered up to the neck in ruins, and, though crying for help, remained in this state until he perished. Dr. Thompson, the American missionary, is remembered here by many for his kind attentions to the wounded and dying at that time.

Safed is a city the origin of which is to be traced back to a period not more than six or seven centuries past. It

was the site of a strong castle, probably about A.D. 1140, and four hundred years afterward a place of considerable renown, especially as a resort for Jewish scholars and rabbis, when there was a school of great popularity in Safed, and many synagogues, with a printing press. In 1266, there was a strong fortress on the hill, occupied by the Templars; but in June of that year, Bibars, the cruel Sultan of Egypt, besieged it with such success that the knights capitulated, marched out, and, trusting to the Sultan's promises of protection, were pitilessly put to death, being slaughtered on the hill to the number of two thousand. About A.D. 1550, Safed was in a most prosperous condition.

There are tombs at Meiron, a little village on a hill a few miles west of Safed, where is said to be the tomb of Hosea the prophet. Safed to the Jews is perhaps the most holy place in Palestine, Jerusalem excepted; and it is one of the four holy places to which we shall refer at Tiberias.

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CHAPTER XI.

THE COUNTRY AND SCENES ON THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS.

ON the following morning we started early, and, inquiring of our dragoman whether he was ready to accompany us to Tell Houm, we received a long-drawn affirmative for an answer, and then a complaint of ill health. He was informed that we had a guide, and the use of the horses was requested. We were soon on the way with our guide, who spoke nothing but Arabic, but seemed quite obliging, and carried arms for both of us. From the top of the hill there was a fine view of the land beyond the Jordan and of the lake, affording a desirable position for bearings. Descending the hill toward the sea, we passed a variety of trees, the fig, pomegranate, and olive included, and also a fountain. The air is pleasant, and the birds carol forth their cheering morning songs till we recover from the unpleasant effects of our dragoman's treatment.

The Lake of Tiberias lies beautifully calm in the sunshine, surrounded by lofty hills as picturesque as any painter could wish. In ten minutes from the last spring we meet another, clear as crystal and gushing forth into the sunshine. Now we descend into a rocky ravine, and make our exit at a spot from which the lake is beautiful, the natural scenery surpassing my expectations, which were not raised by what I had previously heard. Looking toward the south, there are two slight indentations on the eastern coast, and one very distinct on the western at the utmost extremity. half-past nine the soil is a dark brown, and in many places appears volcanic. The dip of the rock is toward the south

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