of water in the lake: and others which tradition reports to have been once floating, like Delos, have long since occupied a fixed station; whether, as at Delos, the change was effected by the power of Phœbus, our philosophers do not determine. The road from Dumbarton to Inverary is a military one, and the milestones with which it is furnished, are numbered from the former place. At the fifteenth, the traveller's attention is arrested by a pleasing object: a seat of green sods is formed on one side of the road, and opposite to it, is a cistern cut out of the rock, beneath a clear dropping brook : an inscription marks this, as the work of Colonel Lascelles's regiment. About a mile further, the water of Douglas falls into the lake, at Inveruglas; the former of these names signifying the black-grey* water, the latter its opening, in which sense the words inver and aber seem to be indiscriminately used in Gaelic; nor is there any reason to conclude with Mr. Pinkerton, that aber is the Teutonic ober, since it is not applied to a situation upon, or over a river, but merely to its mouth. The scenery at Inveruglas was, perhaps, the most picturesque of any on the lake. The road * Dubh, black; glas, grey. crossing a small bridge ascended an eminence to the ferry-house, at that time surrounded by farmers and herd-boys, bringing sheep from the Highlands, to a large fair at Luss: on the right, the clear stream flowed, with a gentle murmur, into the lake, through a green, woody peninsula; on the left was the wild glen, out of which its waters poured, raging more violently in the upper part of their course, and forming some pleasing falls; on both sides were scattered a number of picturesque little cottages; and the home scene was heightened, by its contrast with Ben Lomond, rising on the opposite side of the lake. I had not time to explore the banks of the Douglas; but from the success of two or three attempts, of that kind, which I made, I should strongly recommendi to the lover of picturesque beauty, not to rest contented with what the shores of the lake afford, but to follow to their sources most of the streams, which fall into it. Even when small, they frequently force their way through surprising chasms, and over precipitous rocks and an undiscovered ravine, perhaps, contains more romantic haunts, than fancy ever peopled with the tribes of fairies, or genii, more solemn seclusions than those where Bacchus dictated verses to the listening Muses, and goat-footed Satyrs, 2 We crossed the ferry to Rowardenan, a small inn, delightfully situated, at the foot of Ben Lomond, and commanding fine views of the lake, whose character here begins to be much changed. The islands are hidden by the projecting shore, downward; and the breadth, above, is contracted very much, by the lofty mountain screens, which approaching very close, overhang, and darken the water, Ben Lomond still retaining his paramount superiority. The afternoon being fine, I determined to ascend this noble mountain. The perpendicular height is 3262 feet; but the length of slope, and the numerous breaks in the way, make the estimated ascent six miles. It is usual to take a guide; but the men here being busily employed in ferrying over lambs to the fair at Luss, I set off alone. As was to be expected, I deviated very much from the easiest path, which lies along a green ridge, very conspicuous from below; but any one who has climbed such a mountain, must know how greatly its breaks and chasms deceive the eye. That which you look toward, as one unbroken surface, upon your approach appears divided by impassable vallies; an unheard rill becomes a roaring torrent; and a gentle slope is found to be an unscaleable cliff. These cir |