CHAPTER VI.

THE SUBURBS OF CALCUTTA.

BISHOP'S COLLEGE-HOWRAH-BHOWANIPORE-SERAMPORE-KONNEGUR—

OOTERPARRAH-BURRANAGORE-RANAGHAT-KISHNAGHUR.

My first suburban visit was to Bishop's College, on Monday, Dec. 3. This splendid institution is on the other side of the Ganges, a few miles from the city; and I went there for a few days at the kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Woodrow, the former being the inspector of schools for the district.

A pleasant drive, through a rural wooded district, was an agreeable change after the confinement of the city, where custom forbade a lady to take a walk even to a short distance from her home. Crossing the grand and beautiful river had always a great charm for me, even though it had to be preceded and followed by a somewhat unpleasant transit over the muddy banks, which had to be effected by being carried in a unique way to and from the boat. It was delightful to find myself again, for the first time since my arrival in India, in what might be really called country, and in the midst of friends who have a warm and practical interest in the education of the native community. My hostess, indeed, takes a considerable share in zenanavisiting, and in other institutions connected with female improvement. My attention was particularly

drawn by another lady whom I met there, and who is engaged in the same good work, to the miserable condition of the poor East Indians or Eurasians, as they have been called, who exist in large numbers in Calcutta. As these are half-castes and profess Christianity, they do not fall within the sphere of missionary labour; and since no special agencies are directed towards them, they remain in a helpless state, which they cannot hope to improve. I had not myself an opportunity of becoming personally acquainted with their condition; but the little I accidentally saw, both in Madras and in Calcutta, led me fully to believe in the correctness of the general impression, that they inherit many of the faults of the two races from which they spring, and that they have the sympathy of neither. Their position is one deserving of much commiseration, and it is to be hoped that some of the many Christian efforts which are made in these two cities will be directed towards them. It is not actual charity they so much require, as kind sympathy, and a judicious stimulus to exertion. The Rev. Mr. Bannerjee is a professor of the College, and with him I had much pleasure in making acquaintance. The students I did not see, as they were at Calcutta passing through the university examination. The education given in this institution is of a very high character, the need being strongly felt, by those who manage it, of giving candidates for the ministry such mental training as may make them, at any rate, equal the educational position attained by the native community. The library, staff, building, and general arrangements are calculated thus to train a large number of young men for the ministry. But, unfortunately, the institution does not appear to meet a generally existing want. There are

not at present above twenty students, of whom most are East Indians, with one German. I could not but feel that the simpler and more domestic institution at Madras, was better calculated to prepare native Christian pastors for the people.

The great object of attraction in the neighbourhood of Bishop's College is the Horticultural Garden, which is an extensive and beautiful spot, filled with interesting tropical plants and trees. As it is situated along the river, it was the scene of terrible devastations at the time of the dreadful cyclone, which has left its traces far and wide in the province. One large and unique tree was entirely destroyed, as well as many smaller ones, and most were disfigured by the loss of some of their finest branches. Such was the case with two magnificent banyan-trees-the glory of the garden, -whose tall heads had succumbed to the fury of the hurricane. As I saw them, however, they were marvellous specimens of that remarkable tree, such as I had not before seen in India. When the banyan is within reach of animals, or in public places, as in the fine grove at Ahmedabad, the long fibres sent down by the branches become eaten or destroyed before they can take root in the ground; hence it is not common to meet with these trees of such extent as we read of, or see figured in books of travels. These, however, had been carefully protected, so as to shoot forth freely and to have their natural growth. That, indeed, had been aided by the careful gardener, who had frequently placed a hollow split bamboo for the root to drop through, that it may eventually become a fine straight stem, the parent of a large progeny of young trees. The ground being carefully kept clear and free from other vegetation, there was no cause to dread snakes

or other reptiles; and we could wander at leisure among the varied trunks, which descended from some gigantic branchlike pillars supporting it, and then sprang out in a fresh direction, remaining as the grand parent of a new family group. One might write a long history of that old banyan-tree, illustrated with a number of picturesque engravings. I was told, however, that even this yields in extent and size to some that are met with in the district. Another object of great interest was a tree, believed to be identical with the fossil trunks found in the coal-measures. The grass was very wet with heavy dew in our early morning ramble, but a visit to such a rarity was indispensable. The cinchona or Peruvian-bark plants, which are very carefully cultivated here, are the subject of anxious speculation, as the production of so valuable a medicine as quinine in India will be very important. The little buds appeared very healthy, and gave promise of success.

I was still destined to be disappointed in flowers. The gardener informed me that this was the wrong time. to expect them; they would not come out till February. Even that month did not satisfy my expectations of the floral riches of the country, and I gradually came to the conclusion that the want of care and interest in gardening makes it almost inferior in this respect to our ungenial climate.

Little did I imagine, while quietly enjoying this beautiful spot, to what a different scene it would ere long be witness, and what a catastrophe would shortly follow! On New Year's Day, a grand fête was held at the Horticultural Gardens, to which thousands crowded by steamers from Calcutta. The scene was animating, and his Excellency the Viceroy showed his sympathy with the general rejoicing by his presence there.

He returned by land-the bulk of the visitors were returning by water. A steamer was greatly overcrowded, and it struck against a sunken vessel, which had long been remaining in the river. With due presence of mind, all the passengers might have been saved, as the water was there very shallow; but those whose duty it was to direct did not appear in a condition to do so, and were quite powerless. A cry of fire was raised, and the passengers became quite frantic, many throwing themselves overboard in wild despair. For some time the scene was inconceivably frightful. Some gentlemen endeavoured to restore such order as might have saved life, but in vain. Even when the vessel began to sink, experienced persons knew that, even when it reached the bottom, those on deck might still keep above water. Many were rescued by boats, but numbers, in the confusion, sank to rise no more. To many families the year thus opened in deep sorrow. The scenes of distress may be imagined, as bodies were brought to shore of those who had gone forth that morning full of joy and hope. The loss of some forty or fifty lives at least was the more distressing, as it was generally believed to be the result of carelessness that the vessel struck, and to the want of proper control that the disorder ensued which caused the fatal termination of a day's pleasure.

Before leaving Bishop's College, my friend the Inspector took me a pleasant morning drive, through pretty country scenery, to visit a Hindoo boys' school. The entrance was not inviting, everything having a dilapidated air. We were surprised, at 11 A.M., to find the master not arrived, and the scholars amusing themselves. The house was not very airy, or well adapted for its purpose, in size or good order; and it was a