INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

IN

CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS,

AND

BY JOHN L. STEPHENS,

AUTHOR OF "INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETREA, AND THE
HOLY LAND," ETC.

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS.

ELEVENTH EDITION.

HARPER & BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF-STREET

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
DAVIS

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1841, by

HARPER & BROTHERS,

In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.-Village of Masaya.-Lake of Masaya.-Nindi

ri.-Ascent of the Volcano.-Account of it.-The Crater.-Descent into it.-

Volcano of Nindiri.-Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest.—

Return to Masaya.-Another Countryman.-Managua.-Lake of Managua.—

Fishing.-Beautiful Scenery.-Mateares.-Questa del Relox.-Nagarotis.-

Crosses.-A. Gamekeeper.-Pueblo Nuevo .

CHAPTER II.

Page 7

Beautiful Plain.-Leon.-Stroll through the Town.-Baneful Effects of Party

Spirit.-Scenes of Horror.-Unpleasant Intelligence.-Journey continued.—

A fastidious Beggar.-Chinandaga.-Gulf of Couchagua.-Visit to Realejo.—

Cotton Factory.-Harbour of Realejo.-El Viejo.-Port of Nagoscolo-Im-

portance of a Passport.-Embarking Mules.-A Bungo.-Volcano of Cosagui-

na.-Eruption of 1835.-La Union

CHAPTER III.

-

Journey to San Salvador.-A new Companion.-San Alejo.-San Miguel.—War

Alarms. Another Countryman. State of San Salvador. — River Lempa.

San Vicente.-Volcano of San Vicente.-Thermal Springs.-Cojutepeque.—

Arrival at San Salvador. - Prejudice against Foreigners.- Contributions.—

Pressgangs.-Vice-president Vigil.-Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.

-Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.-Departure from San Salvador 41

CHAPTER IV.

Contributions.-El Baranco de Guaramal.-Volcano of Izalco.-Depredations of

Rascon.-Zonzonate.-News from Guatimala.-Journey continued.-Aguisal

co.-Apeneca.-Mountain of Aguachapa.-Subterranean Fires.-Aguachapa.—

Defeat of Morazan.-Confusion and Terror

CHAPTER V.

58

'Approach of Carrera's Forces.-Terror of the Inhabitants.-Their Flight.-Sur-

render of the Town.-Ferocity of the Soldiery.-A Bulletin.-Diplomacy.—A

Passport.-A Breakfast.-An Alarm.-The Widow Padilla.-An Attack.-De-

feat of Carrera's Forces.-The Town taken by General Morazan -His Entry.

-The Widow's Son.-Visit to General Morazan.-His Appearance, Character,

&c.-Plans deranged .

. 74

CHAPTER VI.

Visit from General Morazan.-End of his Career.-Procuring a Guide.-Depar-

ture for Guatimala.-Fright of the People.-The Rio Paz.-Hacienda of Pal-

mita. A fortunate Escape.-Hacienda of San José.-An awkward Predica-

ment. A kind Host.-Rancho of Hocotilla.-Oratorio and Leon.-Rio de los

Esclavos.-The Village.-Approach to Guatimala.-Arrival at Guatimala.—A

Sketch of the Wars.-Defeat of Morazan.-Scene of Massacre Page 93

CHAPTER VII.

Ruins of Quirigua.-Visit to them.-Los Amates.-Pyramidal Structure.-A

Colossal Head.-An Altar.-A Collection of Monuments.-Statues.-Charac-

ter of the Ruins.-A lost City.-Purchasing a ruined City

CHAPTER VIII.

118

Reception at the Government House.-The Captain in Trouble.-A Change of

Character.-Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.-Arrest of the Captain.-

His Release.-Visit from a Countryman.-Dangers in Prospect.-Last Stroll

through the Suburbs. Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.-Fearful

State of the Country.-Last Interview with Carrera.-Departure from Guati-

mala. A Don Quixote. - Ciudad Vieja. - Plain of El Vieja. - Volcanoes,

Plains, and Villages.-San Andres Isapa.-Dangerous Road.-A Molina. 125

-

CHAPTER IX.

Journey continued.-Barrancas.-Tecpan Guatimala.-A noble Church.-A sa-

cred Stone.-The ancient City.-Description of the Ruins.-A Molina.-Anoth-

er Earthquake--Patzum.-A Ravine.-Fortifications.-Los Altos. — Godines.

-Losing a good Friend.-Magnificent Scenery.-San Antonio.-Lake of Ati-

tan
146

CHAPTER X.

Lake of Atitan.-Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.-A Sail on the Lake.—A dan-

gerous Situation.-A lofty Mountain Range.-Ascent of the Mountains.-Com-

manding View.—Beautiful Plain.-An elevated Village.-Ride along the Lake.

-Solola.-Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché.-Scenery on the Road.-Barrancas.

-San Thomas.-Whipping-posts.--Plain of Quiché.-The Village.-Ruins of

Quiché.-Its History.-Desolate Scene.-A facetious Cura.-Description of

the Ruins.-Plan.-The Royal Palace.-The Place of Sacrifice.-An Image.

-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Palace recent.-An Arch

161

CHAPTER XI.

Interior of a Convent.-Royal Bird of Quiché.-Indian Languages.-The Lord's

Prayer in the Quiché Language.-Numerals in the same.-Church of Quiché.

-Indian Superstitions.-Another lost City.-Tierra de Guerra.-The Abori-

ginals. Their Conversion to Christianity.-They were never conquered.-A