168. Brass of Sir Robert, 1391, and Sir Thomas, 1412, Swyn- English. Fifteenth Lydgate's Pilgrim. English. Fifteenth century 172, Cross bowmen. Froissart's Chronicles. National Library, Paris. Fifteenth century 173. Archers and cross bowman. Reg. MS., 15 E. 4. Chroniques d'Angleterre. Flemish. 1483. 174. Brigandine at Warwick Castle. PAGE 206 207 Bromsgrove, Wor 208 171. Thos. Montacute, Earl of Salisbury. Harl. MS., 4,826. 215 215 tory of the British Army Skelton's work 175. Helmets and Salades from various MSS. and Meyrick and 176. Shield from Meyrick and Skelton's work Warwick. Stothard. 178. Man at arms. Circa 1480. Reg. MS., 15 E. 4. 179. Sir Robert Wingfield, 1461-1480, from painted glass in East Herling Church, Norfolk 180. Military and civil costume. Reg. MS., 14 E. 2. Fifteenth 181. Billman and knight. Cott. MS., Jul. E. iv. Fifteenth century. 215 182. Weapons of the fifteenth century 183. Weapons of the fifteenth century 184. Male costume, from Harl. 4,425, the Romance of the Rose and Reg. MS., 19, c. 8. 1496. 185. Male costume, from Harl. 4,425, the Romance of the Rose and wall painting, Winchester Cathedral. 1489 186. A gentleman, from Harl. 4,425, the Romance of the Rose 187. A beggar, from Harl. 4,425, the Romance of the Rose. 188. A gallant. Reg. MS., 16 F. 2 189. Brass of Isabella Cheyne, 1485. Blickling Church, Norfolk. 224 190. Ladies' costume. Reg. MS., 16 F. 2 191. Margaret, Countess of Richmond, from a portrait in the National Portrait Gallery, and Elizabeth of York, Queen of Henry VII. Hampton Court 192. Male costume, from the Hotel du Bourgtheroulde 1532 194. Portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Surrey, by Stretes. Hampton Court 195. Catherine of Arragon and Anne Bullin, from engraving by Houbraken 196. Catherine Parr, from a picture at Glendon Hall, Northhants 233 197. Brass of Dorothea Peckham, 1512, in Wrotham Church, Kent. 234 PAGE 198. Brass of Elizabeth Porte, 1516, in Etwall Church, Derbyshire 234 199. Costume of the commonalty, from engraving of Siege of Boulogne. Cowdray picture 200. Brass of Laurence Colston, 1550. Rolleston Church, Stafford shire. 235 238 201. Costume of the Commonalty, from the Progress of Edward VI. 238 202. Effigies of the two wives of Sir John Talbot, who died 1550. Hollis 242 203. John Heywood, from the frontispiece to the Parable of the Spider and the Flie. 1556 204. Anne, daughter of Lady Russell, wife of Lord Herbert, later Marquis of Worcester, and a country woman 205. Part of effigy of Lady Hart, 1587. Lullingstone Church, Kent 206. A supportasse, from an engraving by de Bosse 207. Figures from the tomb of Sir Roger Manwood, 1592. Near 208. Brass of Cicely Page, 1598. Bray Church, Bucks Elizabeth's Visit to Blackfriars, 1600 210. Slashed breeches, from a woodcut of about 1600 243 244 245 247 250 251 252 211. The Englishman, from Andrew Borde's Introduction to Knowledge 216. Bishop Latimer, from a rare print by Savage 266 267 269 219. Legal costume, from Engraving, vol. i. Vetusta Monumenta. 270 220. Effigy of Judge Richard Harpur, from Swarkestone Church, Derbyshire 221. Brass of Sir Thos. Peyton. Circa 1508. İsleham Church, 225. Yeomen of the Guard, from pictures at Hampton Court 226. Fashions in beards 231. Sir George Hart, 1600, from portrait at Lullingstone, Kent 232. The Earl and Countess of Somerset 290 291 233. Brass of Elizabeth Bampfield, 1615. Shorwell Church, Isle of Wight 293 234, A Yeoman, from Randle Holme's Academy of Arms. 1682. 294 235. A daughter of John Harpur, from his tomb, 1622, in Swarkerstone Church, Derbyshire 236. Lady and gentleman, circa 1645, from prints of that date 237. Effigies of Anne Stoteville, 1631 (Westminster Abbey) and Dorothy Strutt, 1641. Whalley Church, Essex 238. Lady with patches, from Bulwer's Artificial Changeling. 1650. PAGE 296 300 301 303 239. The Picture of an English Anticke, from a broadside. 1646 305 240. A Puritan, from a broadside. 1649 241. A Puritan female, from a broadside. 1646. 306 306 310 311 312 313 243. Effigies of Hyacinth and Elizabeth Sacheverel, 1657. Morley Church, Derbyshire 244. A countryman, from a woodcut of the reign of Charles I. 246. Short-waisted doublet and petticoat breeches, long stirrup, 248. Costume of a lady, from Nell Gwynne's looking-glass frame. 252. Effigy of John Clobery ob. 1687. Winchester Cathedral 253. Brass of Samuel Harsnett, Archbishop of York, ob. 1631. Chigwell Church, Essex. Waller's Brasses 254. A godly Dissenting brother and a godly brother of the 1646, from a work of that date Presbyterian way. 255. A bishop, temp. Charles II., and a clergyman. 1680, from prints of the period 256. A Justice of the King's Bench and the King's Solicitor. Hollar's Coronation of Charles II. 314 315 316 317 320 320 322 324 326 329 332 257. Medical costume, from A Dreame, or Newes from Hell. 1641 . 258. Liverymen of the Leathersellers' Company, from their charter, temp. James I. 259. Effigy of Sir Denner Strutt, 1641. Whalley Church, Essex 336 260. Helmets of the seventeenth century, from Skelton's engravings of the Meyrick Collection 261. Ferdinand, Lord Fairfax, from W. D. Fellowes' Historical Sketches of Charles I., &c. 262. Pikeman and musketeer, from a print dated 1645 263. Dragoon, from a print dated 1645 264. Fire-arms and plug bayonet. 265. Yeoman of the Guard, from Hollar's Coronation of Charles II. 342 266. Gentleman and lady about 1688, from a print of the period 267. Costume of the upper classes, of same period as the above PAGE 268. An Exquisite, from the Beau's Catechism. 1703. 346 269. Ladies' dresses, from Sutton Nicholl's View of Hampton Court 348 270. Ordinary walking dress of ladies 349 271. Ladies' head-dresses, No. 3 and 4, from R. de Hooge's Landing of William III. 351 272. Costume of the commonalty. The woman, from Misson's Memoires. 1697 274. General costume, commencement of eighteenth century 275. Ladies in hoop petticoats, about 1718 276. Ordinary costume of gentlemen, same period as above 278. Men's hats, 1740-1750 279. Costume of gentlemen and ladies, 1739, from frontispiece to the School of Venus 280. Costume of gentlemen and ladies, 1744, from prints by Gravelot 281. The hoop petticoat, from a print dated 1746 282. The hoop petticoat, from the Review, a print of the period 283. Lady's shoe and clog 285. The hoop skirt, the sacque, and the Nithsdale 286. Sailor and soldier, 1746, from prints of that date. 379 287. Lady and gentleman, 1760, from prints of that date 382 288. Ladies' head-dress, 1768, from Sieur le Groos' The Ladies' 290. Costume of country folks, from prints of 1772 389 291. Maccaronis, from prints of 1772 390 292. Ladies in the newest dress, from drawings taken at Ranelagh, May, 1775 296. Gentlemen's costume, 1793, from prints of that date 403 297. Ladies' costume, 1790, from prints of that date 404 298. Ladies' walking dress, 1796, from The Gallery of Fashion, THE COSTUME IN ENGLAND. THE EARLY BRITONS. HE early history of Britain is involved in an obscurity so profound, that conjecture, not fact, can only be offered to those who demand minute information upon it. It will therefore follow, that the costume of the inhabitants is but sparingly alluded to by the few authors of the Classic world who cared to notice these semi-barbarous people.1 A commerce with Britain was commenced at a very early period by the Phoenician merchants, who traded here for tin, which was "so abundant on the coast of Cornwall, that it gave the name Cassiterides to a cluster of islands now called Scilly, from whence the tin was dug and exported.' Strabo, in describing these islands, says: "They are inhabited by a people wearing black garments, or cloaks, reaching down to their heels, and bound round their breasts. They walk with sticks, and wear long beards."3 1 It must be remembered with regard to the early writers who mention these islands, that in most if not all cases the information they had received was purely local, and only applied to those parts that were in communication with the outer world. Thus Cæsar could only speak with certainty of those tribes inhabiting Kent, Diodorus of Cornwall, Strabo of the Cassiterides, &c. 2 Hoare's "Ancient Wiltshire." The Phoenicians preserved for a long time the exclusive monopoly of this trade, and kept the knowledge of these islands from all other countries, as far as lay in their power; and on one occasion, when a Roman ship was employed to watch the Phoenician vessel, the master of the latter ran his ship on shore, where she was lost, together with the Roman vessel; for which act of heroism he was indemnified from the public treasury. * He uses language almost identical when speaking of the Iberians of B |