simple effect of the black dress and white barbe would be aided in its dignity by the elaborately decorated crozier, emblematic of the power of its plainly-accoutred wearer.

The dress of a plain parish priest may be seen in fig. 161, given on the next page, from the brass of John Islyngton, in Cley church, Norfolk, engraved in Cotman's series of brasses. He was vicar of Islington in that county,

from 1393 to 1429. He is in the habit of a doctor of divinity, has a long gown edged with fur and wears a plain cap on his head. Priests are so generally represented in their official dress, that this little figure possesses extra claims to notice.

The ordinary costume of a priest habited for the altar

may be seen in fig. 162, the Canon Laurence Lawe, from an incised slab, dated 1440, in All Saints' Church, Derby. He wears the al

John Mapilton, 1432, Broadwater, Sussex, and Prior Prestwick, 1436, Warbleton Church, Sussex; also Dr. Langton, circa 1515, Queen's Coll., Oxon.

The ordinary walking-dress of a monk of the time of Edward IV. is given, fig. 163, from Royal MS. 14 E 4. His hood is thrown off; and the length of his pendent tippet would seem to confirm the objections made by the satirists to the clergy's love of fashionable extravagance. The wide sleeves of the monk's gown are edged with fur, and he has thrust his hands into them for warmth. He wears an ornamental girdle, to which is attached his purse; bringing to memory a tale of the time of Henry VIII., in the collection known as Shakespeare's Jest-book, of "a certayne prieste that hadde his purse hangynge at his gyrdell, strutting out full of money." Such purses were formed of velvet, and had tassels of gold thread, the framework and clasps of metal gilt, or of silver, upon which were frequently inscribed moral and religious sentences. His writing materials are hung across his girdle, in front of the purse, consisting of a small ink-horn, and a long penner, or case,

containing writing materials. In Shaw's "Dresses and Decorations," is engraved the penner which tradition affirms

was left at Waddington Hall by Henry VI., during his wanderings in Yorkshire, after the fatal battle of Towton; it is formed of leather, ornamented with patterns in relief; see a cut of the same in the Glossary.

The gradual changes produced by civilization, and the division of labour, both of mind and body, consequent on it, disjoined the legal profession from the church, and gave its functionaries a distinct costume, yet sufficiently clerical in appearance to distinguish its parentage. Two examples have been selected for the engraving on next page; the first from Stothard's "Monumental Effigies," supposed to represent Sir Richard de Willoughby, Chief Justice of the King's Bench in the eleventh year of Edward III., and therefore not too far removed from the early part of the period of which we are now treating to be inadmissible here as an interesting illustration of early legal costume.' He wears a plain gown, with a close collar, which is buttoned down the front, and has wide sleeves, displaying the tighter ones of the under-clothing, with their rows of buttons from the elbow to the hand, which is partly covered by them; his waist, like that of Chaucer's sergeant-at-law, is

Fig. 163.

"Girt with a ceint of silk with bars small."

The second figure is that of Sir William Gascoyne, Chief Justice of the King's Bench, immortalized by Shakespeare,

1 One of the earliest examples of legal dress is the figure of Robert Grymbald, a judge of the time of Henry II., on his seal, engraved in Dugdale's "Origines Juridiciales."

and the older historians, as the judge who punished Prince Hal, afterwards the great Henry V. He died 1419, and is buried in Harwood

Church, Yorkshire, and our copy is made from the effigy given by Gough from that tomb; the principal variation in costume from the other effigy being the addition of a long mantle buttoned on the right shoulder, and a close-fitting hood instead of the coif or small cap; and which is said by some writers to be commemorated in the small circular piece of black silk still placed in the centre of the judge's wig.

Fig. 164.

In the time of Edward III., the justices of the King's Bench were allowed liveries by the king of cloth and silk, and fur for their hoods of budge and minever. In the eleventh of Richard II., the justices had for their summer robes each ten ells of long green cloth: the chief justices having twenty-four ells of green taffeta extra. In the twenty-second of Henry VI., John Fray, then Chief Baron of the Exchequer, had allowed to him for his winter robes against Christmas ten ells of violet in-grain, one fur of thirty-two bellies of minever pure for his hood, another fur of a hundred and twenty bellies of minever gross,2 and seven tires of silk; and for his summer robe, against Whitsuntide, ten ells of long green cloth, and half-a-piece of green tartarin. The other barons of the same court had for their summer robes each of them ten ells of violet in-grain, with one fur of a hundred and twenty bellies of minever gross, and another fur of thirty-two bellies

1 Budge is lambskin, with the wool dressed outward. Minever is the skin of the ermine, an article only worn by noblemen.

2 The finer parts of the fur being used for the hood, the coarser for trimmings.

of minever pure for their hoods, and likewise two pieces of silk, each of seven tires; from which it appears that the colour of the judge's robes was not constantly the same, but green seems for a considerable time to have prevailed.

Sir John Fortescue, in his "De Laudibus Angliæ," written about this time, speaking of the formality of making a judge, says, "He shall henceforward from time to time change his habit in some points; for being a sergeant-atthe-law, he is clothed in a long priest-like robe, with a furred cape about his shoulders, and thereupon a hood with two labels (such as doctors of the law wear in certain univer. sities with their coif); but being made a justice, instead of his hood he must wear a cloak closed upon his right shoulder, all the other ornaments of a sergeant still remaining, saving that his vesture shall not be parti-coloured as a sergeant's may, and his cape furred with minever, whereas the sergeant's cape is ever furred with white lamb-skin."

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The parti-coloured coats with stripes worn by the legal profession are seen in The man of law" in the Ellesmere Chaucer, figured in Mr. Furnivall's reprint for the Chaucer Society; also in the portrait of Galfridus de Rokehamstede in Cott. MS. Nero D 7, the catalogue of the benefactors of St. Albans.

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For further information on this subject, see Archæologia," vol. xxxix, and Proc. Soc. Ant.," new series, vol. iii., p. 414.

Lydgate in his "London Lackpenny," says,—

"In Westminster Hall I found out one
Which went in a long gown of raye."

Fig. 165.

And he mentions the judge in the common place (pleas), who wore a silken hoade."

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Fig. 165, from Cott. MS. Nero D 7, represents Galfridus de Rokehamstede, one of the benefactors of St. Alban's Abbey. He wears a tippet, and the left sleeve and left side of his gown are striped. He holds in his hand the deed of gift with the seal attached.

In vol. 39 of the "Archæologia," are representations