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For the Monthly Magazine. selves to the host, if it passes while they JOURNAL of a recent voyage to CADIZ. are in the streets, as I have before de Í HAVE heard a Spanish proverb, scribed to you; dirt they wear the trans1 which significantly says of Cadiz, parent robe of our fair ones, you inay that it is “the heaven for women, the hence guess how soon its colour would purgatory for men, and a hell for asses.” be changed. On other occasions, such There is a sort of gallantry in the first as going to the theatre and on visits, they part, which is not perhaps altogether in- dress much as in England, but perhaps applicable to the ladies; and with every with a little more decorum. partiality towards the fair sex on the They wear no hats or bonnets in the Other side the water, I confess that, for a open air, but laced veils or a sinall piece time at least, I am apt in this instance of black casimir, called a mancilla, deco. to say that here is “ the human face rated with lace or velvet, which they nee divine,"
gligently throw over the lead and shoul. The Spaniards do, however, admire ders; but this part of their dress is not the beautiful complexion of our fair intended to bide the face; on the con. countrywomen,
trary the graceful manner in which they « Whose every beauty, every grace,
continually dispose it, serves to heighten As shines the lily,
their charins. The fan is also a universal Or as the rese amid the morning dew, appendage to a lady's dress, she is Fresh from Aurora's hand, more sweetly searcely ever seen without it when in a glows."
promenade or in the drawing room; in. And it was but the other evening a this warm cliinate it is rather indispengentleman in company, whose name was sable for its utility, and it serves also as Flores, met an English lady just come a graceful assistant to their expressive from Malta, le admired her, for she was action in conversation. Dr. Johnson handsome, and pleasantly remarked to would not have been pleased with the ne that, although there were many flowers" attitudinising” of the Spaniards when by name in Spain, yet the English had they talk, the finest fowers by nature.
Lady W is here assimilating her. I will endeavour to give you a descripc self with Spanish fashion, she has tion of the Spanish ladies: they are for adopted the dress of the ladies, which is the most part not so tall as the English, considered as a inark of respect; but in slender jo their form until they are about the playful use of the fan, shie confesses twenty-five or thirty years of age; they her deficiency; she has translated Addia walk remarkably upright and gracefully, son's description of the application of it. displaying at the same time a delicately by the ladies of different ages and inclia small foot. In their manners they are nations, which the Spanish Belles exein. very polite, agreeable, and cheartul, plify and allow to be correct. You would without chat caint of reserve which some. hardly have supposed that the spectator times reduces.conversation to thoughtful was in Cadiz, but as I have it at hand, I silence. They are fond of music and will quote the passage which gives you singing, and the English piano forte is in the words of corpmand, and I will refer erery family of fashion. A young lady you to the 102d paper of the work for the was playing to me one morning some of full explanation of them, their national airs and songs, but did not
" Handle your fans, accompany the instrument with her voice,
Unfurl your fans, Ou asking her to sing, she pleasantly
Discharge your fans, replied, “Yo no puedo cantar, pero puedo
Ground your tans, encantar," "I cannot sing, but I can
Recover your fans, encbant." I think they are fond of pun.
Flutter your fans," ning; but as you do not know much of the All these parts of the exercise a lady language, you will lose the expression of told me were severally correct, and she this, which I cannot well translate in its went through her pa t in the various uses pleasing spirit.
otit, from youth to age, as perfectly as if The ladies and females of every de. Addison had been the drili-se i jeant. scription dress in black when they appear When a young lady walka unaccompaabroad; and a stranger on his first arri. nied by ber friends, she is attended by an val, would be apt to conclude that the old feinale domestic, called a Duenna, whole city was in mourning; there is a who follows her at a resp.euiful stance, convenience in this arising from their re, either to mass or for a mirung's prome. ligious ceremony of prostrating them. nade. The father confessor in gonie
cases accompanies bis female flock, and years ago; they wear three-cornered hats, from the respect paid to the clergy, he is ibeir hair powdered and tied in large alwa vs the best proti ctor. He is consia kunts, dangling on the shoulder, laced dered as one of the family, and at dinner roffles, large buckles, a full suit of velvet and evening parties partakes of the most clothes; and those who belong to the fainiliar attention,
public offices are often gaudaly decked There is an unrestrained freedom be.' with gold and silver, embroidered lace, tween the sexes in their association, but with a sword by their side. From the withour levity or indecorum; and Spanish button boie is suspended the Cross of the jealousy, which we have heard so much Order of the Golden Fleece, which is of, is now known only by name. The very prevalent; and as the Spaniard is ladies and genilemen select their own proud of any distinction, we see an end, companions, einer anong each oiher or less variety of badges, or ribbons of merit, not; and that mutual confidence, which worn by them. The cloak, or capota, is the basis of society, seems universally is an indispensable article of dress, 2 to exist.
nenjal servant will scarcely stir abroad, The ladies marry early, but not so the without it. It is worn in summer and in men; and they verify the saying vf John' winter: first to keep off the scorching son, that "celibacy has no pleasures," rays of the sun, if a large umbrella does and “ a daughter begins to bloon before not answer sufficiendly, and then to keep the mother can be cinient to iade." off the piercing air of the winter dewsand.
The mode of visiting is less formal fogs. This article is usually tribined than wjih us; certain rules of ceremony with coloured velvet, which is shewn by are of course established, but without a dexterously throwing one corner of it cold formality. When you are intro- over the left shoulder, so as to hang down duced and receive an invitation to repeat on the back while the fold wraps round the visit, it is to be understood that you the chin, and the face is barely seen bewill call atierward without requiring a tween this and their dirty whiskers and particular repetition of it.
mustachio, still more obscured by the A family of fashion has an open night fumes of the segar. . every week, this is called a Tertulla, Some young men who have visited En. when their friends are expected to call gland, or France, begin to adopithe and partake of the evening's entertain- more modern dress of those countries; ment, and play a rubber, u game of the round hat in particular, and the panchess, &c. &c. and as you are not re- taloon and half boots are introduced, and quired to remain the whole evening, you many receive their clothes ready inade miny quit the room sans ceremonie, and in from a London taylor. But there is still . this manner partake of the amusement of a deficiency in the taste of wearing thein, two or three Tertullas in the course of und the greatest incongruity and mixture the evening.
of colors between the coat and waistcoat The theatre being open every night, and breeches. A light drab coat bediand as one only is in the place, it is zened' with lace, is perhaps worn on a usually well attended, inore particularly on black velvet waistcoat and blue breeches, Sundays; and when it is announced ihat The cloak is, however, a convenient the Fandango, or Bolero, will be danced. arucle of dress, though it is getting inuch Toese are national dances adapted to into disuse; it often serves !o conceal a rusic manners more than to polile bad coat, as well as an unexpected ineducation; for the figures of them, and strument of death, and is made to answer the dress of the performers, partake so the purpose of a shield by wrapping it lirtle of delicacy, aj sca cely to allow round the arm in the attack with a their being adopted in putate society in sword. full perfection. The inusic is always The salutation of bowing, and the ce. accompatiid by Castañetts, which are remony of shaking hands among men, is two circular pieces of ivory, or cocoa more cominon than in England; the lat. nut, about tivo inches diameter, fastened ter is not permitted by the ladies but in or suspended to each thumb with a string, particular or familiar cases, and one need and pressed smartly against each other always have the hand to the hat and wear by the tops of the fingers, producing a only one glove; but the • fraternal huge monotonous clatter in time with the seems to be the excess of compliment music and the beat of the dancer's foot. when two friends meet on the occasion
The dress of the men is in general of returning from absence, taking leave, ' much the same as it was in England hfty &c. This is a ceremony which English.'
men would rather dispense with than' at this bridge, and at the Isla, against the adopt, if I may speak for myseli and for approach of an enemy; but the Spaniards many who are just come here. An are so much attached to this triige, on occasional disgust arises when I see two account of its beauty and antiquits, as men clasping each other in their arms, it is supposed to have been erected by whether ii be in the street or in the drawn the Romans, that it is become very ques. ing room; and the very poriers adopt tionable whether, in case of exiremity, this custom, addressing each other, as do this mea ure should be resorted to. From the highest ranks, by the outle of Señor. hence,' an excellent road commences,
The great commerce of Cadiz eme' and excends two or three miles across a ploys, or rather did employ, several hun. marsh, 'ithich the tide covers at high dred of these porners; their lite reaily water, and it comununicates with Zuaco), seems to be a "purgatury." Itihey work by means of a flying bringe. This road they are like slaves, if they are unem. was formed by the Marquis de Solano, ployed they are so poor as to be nearly and shers, among other instances ar starved. We now see them siretched in Cadiz, that it was his inclination to in. the streets all day long bashing in the troduce improvements into liis country; sun, or sleeping amid rags and tileh. I this is a inuch esteemed one, as it prea think that I have toid you in a former let. vents passing through upwards of s'i ter, that they are called Gatleyves: they miles of wood and thickets, where there are generally very civil, and as they aie is no regular road. . chief: born on the mour:tams of Gallicia,: There was found on the coast, about from whence they take their name, they two leagues from Cadiz, a few years ago, are a robust and hardy race; one may a considerable part of a brouze statue, judge of their strength by Steing half a supposed to be the remains of the statue dozen of them with a butt of wilie susof Hercules. It is now in the possession penvied on poles resting on their shouls of Mr. C----, a merchant of this ders, trolling barefooted in apparent place, and represenis Envy, and a torchia ease over the stones,
' with a wolf about two feet in length I understand that it is not the disposi- lying at her feet; there are also iw. tion of the Spaniards to travel much, even prints, or inarks, where it is conjectured in their owll country. This probably the figure of Hercules was fixed. This, arises in a great measure from the want curiosity was dragged astiore by a fi b in of accommodations on the roads, and érinan, whose anchor bad fastened on it. nothing but urgent necessity, or extreme 'The pillars of Hercules, you know, curiosity in individuals, would lead them were supposed to have stood somewhere from bence to Madrid. The merchants in this neighbourhood; its situation has and families of fashion have, however, bren assigned also to Gibraltar and their country residence at Chiclana, Tariffa, rach of those spots having beer which is about twenty miles from hence considered as the . Ne plus Ultra' of the it is a small town pleasantly situated in continent; but from this discovery it, the midst of a fine part of the country, would appear that it is erroneous. and the prospect opens into a delightful Iu Cadiz, is a modern piece of fine plain adorned with verdure, woods, and sculpture in marble, erected at the end flowers: this spot gives one an idea of the of one of the public walks, representing healthy clinaie of Spain and of its seruile Hercules between two lions, fruin whose soil; here they have their bella vistas mouths used to flow a stream of water, and their promenades, and partake of supplied from a reservoir, which is now the comforts of life, removed from the in decay. noise and busile of commerce and the . At a short distance from this, towards inseparable inconveniences attached to a the hospital, is an elegant marble cotrading city.
lumn, about thirty feet in height, surThe first seven miles is on the Penin- mounted with the Virgin Mary, and sula, already mentioned, which leads to erected to commemorate the dreadful the town of St. Isla de Leon, where is a earthquake that produced the 'melan-' beautiful bridge, called Puerto Zuaco, choly distresses at Li bon, in Vovember, connecting it with the continent, and 1755; and which was felt so severely defended by strong fortifications; the bere, as to threaten the overwhelming of tide flows high enough to admit a seventy- the city by the sea. The column is four gun ship, to lie at anchor close to placed on the spot, so far as which the it. A great dependance for the safety' water had swept all before it; and it was of Cadiz, is on the resistance to be made expected at the time, that if the rocks
running out to St. Sebastian's Castle, There are a few portraits in some of had not broken the force of the waves, the rooins of the Exchange; among them the whole place would have been de- are Cortes, the discoverer of Mexico; and stroyed.
Philip of Spain, who was married to our I had intended sending to you a draw. Queen Mary. ing of this column, as well as of some' The Inerchants, dispensing now with others; but I am told, that I might cause the Exchange, assemble to ialk of bu. an unpleasant suspicion at this moment, siness, or of politics, in the Plaza de if I were to be seen using a pencil, at San Antonio, which is an elegant large least without having permission from square, paved with marble, and having some person in authority.
two rows of handsonie white marble A little farther on is a fine gravel seats around it, interspersed with orange. beach, of some extent, which is free trees, which are now in blossom, and quented as a bathing-place in the sun. bearing also their ripened fruit. mer season; but here are no machines, This square is the usual promenade for as in England, for the accommodation of all ranks, previous to the dinner bour, the bathers. It is the custom for the and exhibits a scene of nuch gaiety and men to bathe in the day-time, and for confusion and misery;-for here also come the ladies at night. They go attended the beggars, in crowds, who are at every by their servants, and carry their dresses moment surrounding us with the utmost and their carpets to spread on the sand; impertinence ; for it' one endeavours not a guard of soldiers being placed at a to listen to them, they are sure to remind sufficient distance to prevent insulting bim of their preselice by a tap on the curiosity from disturbing them, while arm, or a twitch of the elbow. They “ they taste the lucid coolness of the are now very numerous, since the plague, flood."
the war and the famine, that bare for I have to-day been at the Exchange. these six years past visited this devoted You will say that I ought perhaps to at- country, and added to the natural dis- tend it every day; but the truth is, this tresses of the poor. This is a part of
place is not resorted to as is our Royal society that will unavoidably be found in Exchange; it serves chiefly for the re. every part of the world; and when it is sidence of notaries, and for a depository considered, the state makes no provision of certain public documents. There for them here, and that the tendency of are a number of rooms assigned to the their religious governors rather de presses different departments of commerce, and than encourages their pbysical exertions, one in which every broker belonging to it is not much to be wondered at that Cadiz has a box with his name on it, to mendicity is so prevalent. Uueducated receive any notice it may be wished to and disregarded froin their birth, they communicate to him.
seem only to be known as human beings, The area is about sixty feet, surrounded who have an existence wbich their by a Farrow portico, where are maps, country does not value; and who, on their advertisements, &c, and the price curreyt sick bed, are deprived of what solace of the week; this document is furnished they might 'derive from their religious at any time by a clerk, who fills up a persuasion, if they should not have purprinted list of the articles, for which he chased in the course of the year the is paid about three-pence. The arrival Pope's bull, which grants an indulgence and sailing of vessels is also to be as for them to he attended by tbe clergy, certained here at almost every hour of and without such purchase they could the day; as a signal tower is erected in not coinmand their attendance, as they an eminence in the middle of the city, otherwise would, cuminanding upwards of forty miles at To a city like this, which depends for sea, and is attended by persons who are its prosperity on the flourishing state of always on the look out, and coininunicommerce in time of peace, a war must caling with the coast. The persons at bring incalculable evils; and as it apo this tower print a list three times a-day, pears that there are only two classes of of the arrival and departure of every citizens, the very rich and the very poor, ship, specifying their cargoes, and the you inay easily invagine the sufferings of merchant who receives the consignment; the people when trade is at a stand, they likewise note the weather, the wind, There is of course a sort of middle rank, the age of the moon, the beight of the such as the shopkeepers, but they are rides, and other remarks that may be not numerous; one half of these in Cadiz, occasionally necessary to commerce, is composed of foreigners, from all nito
tions, and they very visibly denote and to the writer of this letter, as his owo, confirm the indolent disposition of the at the Vicarage-house, in Kensington. Spaniard.
Dr. Jortin published thein himself, as It is not unusual to see the beggars his own, in three fine quarto editions of extended in the street, in the agonies of the Lusxs Poetici; the third of which death; they surround the churches, the printed by William Bowyer, and dated convents, and the coffee-houses; in fine, 1748, this moment lies before me. Dr. wherever you go, they are to be met with Hawkesworth translated them into Ew. ju the most disgusting appearances of glish verse, as from Dr. Jortin; and they starvation, clothing, and misery. With- are known to all scholars who had the out caution in walking, and turning happiness of being acquainted with Dr. the corners of streets, they are liable to Jortin to be his composition. be trodden on by the passenger, by day Add to this abundant proof, that they and at night; so numerous are they are not inserted in any of the earlier Here is also a horde of gipseys, they have editions of Vincent Bourne's Poematia, their abode in a distant part of the place, The fifth edition of Bourne is now in and possess the usual qualifications for my hands, dated 1764, and they are not plundering and murdering, as do their tu be found there. There was a subsecommunity in other countries. There quent edition of Bourne, in a larger is a strange custom here of exposing a size, published by some booksellers, who murderer, previous to his execution. I probably, deceived by their editor, insaw one morning, two meu led through serted among other pieces this poem, the streets, bound upon asses, with their copied, and perhaps a little altered, 10 backs naked, attended by a vast crowd facilitate deception, from the Lusus of people; they were, at certain places, Poetici of Dr. Jortio. fogged with a lash, especially when they . April 10, 1811. - SUUM CUIQUE came to the dwelling where they had perpetrated a murder a few days before: To the Editor of the [unthly Mugazine, the punishment of hanging was to be SIR, inflicted in the course of the same week, TTVHE almost total disappearance of and perhaps two more horrid looking T our gold, and the great scarcity wretches could scarcely be seen.
of our silver coin, have justly excited Some of the beggars attract notice by the alarm and apprehension of the playing the bagpipe, which is similar to people of this country, many of whom, The Scotch instrument, and whose “ in. long babituated to receive in exchange flated pipe, with swinish drone," is often for it every article of necessity and accompanied by a crazy violin: others luxury, and therefore accustomed to resell newspapers and placards; but they gard it, not merely as the circulating often contrive to dispose of the account medium of the country, but as its actuai of a victory, &c. which has happened riches, forbode from its disappearance long since. The news-boys in London no less than the certain, speedy, and are no better; I recollect their selling total, ruin of the country. Whether gazettes, containing the aceount of Nel. their fears are well or ill grounded, cer. son's Battle at Copenhagen, at the time tain it is that the greatest and most That Lord Gambier succeeded in his serious inconvenience is felt by the * attack on that place, by practising their want of sufficient silver coinage, for the
cheat, under the title of the “ Gazette common transactions of trade: almost Extraordinary for the victory at Co. every individual in the kingdom, whepenhagen."
ther engaged in business or not, feels
it; and if its scarcity should encrease To the Editor of the Monthly Magazine. to a much greater degree, all trading SIR, **
intercourse, below the amount of a IN answer to a Correspondent in pound, will inevitably be whully stop1 your last Number, wbo says, he is ped. As it is, shopkeepers are frequente at a loss to conjecture why Dr. Knox ly obliged to forego the opportunity of attributes these beautiful verses
selling their goods, by the impossibility " Qualis per nemorum nigra silegria, &c." of giving, change to their customers.
A short time since, having occasion to to Dr. Jortin, when they are to be found on into the
go into the city, and wanting some re. in one of the editions of Vincent freshment, I went into a coffee-house Bourne's Poemutia, I beg leave to assure to take some soup. When I ordered him that Dr. Jortin himself gave them it. the waiter asked me if I had suffi