او ге 32 The stern and hostile aspect of the northern side of the rock softens into scenes of rural beauty to the south, lead ing to Europa Point. Here well-cut roads wind through avenues of poplars, along the sides of gardens, and through groves of orange and citron-trees. The official house of the commissioner, elevated high on the rock, half-embosomed in a garden abounding with productions of the south, offers, at least in point of picturesque situation, a comparison unfavourable to the residence of the governor, which stands in the town, at the base of the rock, in the principal street, and was formerly a Franciscan convent. It is called "the convent" to this day. Here, however, there is an excellent garden, kept in high order, containing orange and citron trees, vines, flowers, and vegetables. Towards Europa Point, there are also several other beautiful spots. Mr. Commissary Sweetland and his amiable lady have a delightful cottage here, as well known for the elegant hospitality which reigns within, as for the beauty of the scenery without. On this side of the rock is the cele. brated cave of St. Michael; this is a inagnificent hall of nature, apparently supported by columns of crystalization, rude, brilliant, and beautiful, from which there are narrow and difficult passages leading to other apartments. During the war with Spain, and before the French arms became sullied by a spirit of ruthless ferocity, an intercourse, distinguished for its urbanity, existed between our garrison and the Spaniards, such as did honour to the exalted sensibility of two great nations. Our officers were permitted to enjoy the sports of the turf within the Spanish territory, and, in retorn, gave balls and other entertainments to the Spaniards. Upon some of these festive and generous occasions, the cave of St. Michael's was accustomed to be brilliantly lighted up. Under these illuminations, the effect of its roof, fretted and richly adorned with prismatic spars and dropping crystals, wildly resembling the minute and delicate richness of saracenic decoration, of its glittering sides, of its milk-white and semi-transparent columns, presenting all sorts of fantastic orders of architecture, its numerous and mysterious recesses, the whole enlivened by groups of visitors gaily dressed, must have been most singular and enchanting. Rugged, barren, and bladeless, as this rock appears at the height of this cave, still flocks of goats and even some cows contrive to find pasture upon its western side. The roads are excellent, and enlivened with persons riding hackwards and forwards, and even by barouches and other carriages. In the town, there is an excellent garrison library in a handsome detached building. To the balls given by the military, the families of the merchants are rarely, if ever, admitted: this unpleasant line of separation has been drawn, in consequence of the great number of low and vulgar mercantile adventurers, who have settled in Gibraltar. Universal toleration exists, without, as might be expected, any inconvenience to the garrison, always excepting, however, the horrid nuisance produced by a fellow beating the bell of the Spanish Catholic church with a great hammer, many times in the course of the day, to the no little annoyance of every one in its neighbourhood. This noisy functionary is a great coxcomb in his way, and says that the English have good bells, but do not know how to ring them, and that he alone possesses taste in this way! I was informed, that an officer once, provoked by his noise, after repeatedly, but unavailingly, requesting him not to strike so hard, could not resist caning him when he descended, upon which the bell-ringer brought his action, and obtained damages; he now, therefore, frequently shows his triumph, by, the additional vehemence with which he Strikes his bell. The traveller will do well to pay a visit to Catalan Bay, situated at the base of the eastern side of the rock, which is there perfectly inaccessible; this spot is truly romantic and beautiful. Here, under the shade of vines and fig-trees, in company with some intelligent engineer officers, with a fine beach and rolling sea in our front, and in our rear the cliffs of this mighty rock, on the sides of which several monkeys were playing their " fantastic tricks," we dined in refreshing coolness, although it was sultry hot on the other side of the rock. The marble of Gibraltar is very beau. tiful, and admits of a fine polish: shells and petrified fish are frequently found in it. The inns in the town, without being very clean or comfortable, are excessively dear; but there is one to which I would recommend the traveller of pleasure to go, equal in neatness and comfort to any in England, standing in an enchanting situation a little above the dock-yard and Europa Bay. The The musquitos commit sad havoc upon strangers, for which reason, and the usual effects attendant on a change of climate, an officer is seldom put on duty for a fortnight after his arrival. The society is here altogether gloomy, for want of more females. The theatre is execrable. One of the few amusements is, spearing of fish by torch-light. The market is well supplied with vegetables, now from Spain, as well as Barbary. At night, a passenger is sadly annoyed by the challenges of the numerous centinels who are stationed in and near the town. Every one not in uniform, must carry a lanthorn. To the eye of the stranger, the town presents a natural masquerade of people, from various countries, in their different costumes, of whom the chief are Moors. The Spanish character forms a striking feature. Spaniards from all parts are to be found here. Gibraltar is indeed well worthy of a voyage to be seen; and, when its numerous and astonishing fortifications, its town, barracks, docks, arsenals, countryhouses, and population, sometimes amounting to sixteen thousand souls, distributed on one side of a rock whose circumference does not exceed seven miles, are all brought within the eye's and mind's view, it may justly be ranked amongst the greatest of natural and ar tificial wonders. THE SECOND SIEGE OF SARAGOSSA. the enemy, which advanced with great On the 26th of January, 1809, the After repeated attacks, the French gained the Plaza, where they raised fresh works, whence they kept up a dreadful discharge of shot and shells, which reduced to ruin the principal part of the. town. The only places of defence left were a convent of St. Augustine's, of las Monicas, an oil-mill, the botanical On the 21st of December, 1808, the garden, and a small redoubt. During French returned again to lay siege to this desperate crisis, all descriptions of Zaragoza. They were in great force, and persons, with fearless animation, assisted presented themselves in different direc-in making fascines, digging ditches, and tions. The military and inhabitants of the city, though far from having recovered from the effects of the carnage, fatigue, and sickness, by which they had been re duced in the preceding siege, which had been raised about four months, prepared once more, under their beloved and heroic Palafox, to resist their cruel and ruthless enemy. Mortier, with about fourteen thousand chosen troops, mostly grenadiers of the imperial guards, approached the Arrabal, which includes three short streets, at the end of each of which, a weak battery of earth and fascines was constructed, having a small ditch three yards broad, and two and a half deep, without any other protection or covered way, but what the houses afforded. The marshal commenced the attack with his sharpshooters, supported by his artillery, which discharged thirty-six pounders, at half pistol shot. Although three columns of I heaping up earth, in the streets, not yet But still the work of death went on, streets streets writhing in the agonies of death, yet scarcely a sigh or moan was heard, whilst those whose wounds permitted them to move, crawled behind the walls of roofless houses and sunk down on their ruins. At the same time priests were seen, as they were rushing to meet the advancing foe, to kneel by the side of the dying, and, dropping their sabres, or their muskets, to take with holy zeal the cross from their bosoms, and administer the consolations of their religion, during which they exhibited the same calinness usually displayed in the chambers of sickness. On the 30th, after having undermined the carnage amongst the hostile troops The enemy, by undermining, still There was not a house that had not in some degree suffered. During these scenes, the celebrated Augustina again displayed her undaunted courage in the cause of her . THE SUPREME JUNTA 1 The patriots of Spain, high and low, seemed to have but one opinion of the In this opinion its Supreme Junta. members were divided into four classes; the first comprehended one or two able and upright men; the second those who, without actually corresponding with the enemy, did not hesitate, every oppor tunity within their powers, and to its full extent, to sacrifice the interests of their country to their own personal aggrandizement; the third those who were weak and easily intimidated; and the fourth those who looked on with perfect apathy, and sauctioned every measure without investigation; such were the function aries who composed this new majesty of Spain, in which neither the king, the aristocracy, nor the people were represented. DEFENCE DEFENCE OF MONTSERRAT. From a height near this hermitage, Padre de Schilling pointed out the road below, which he took when he headed the monks and the peasants of the estates belonging to the monastery, gave battle to the French, and defeated them. Of this singular conflict he furnished me with the following modest, brief, and simple, narrative in writing: "I am by birth a German nobleman, and was formerly in the army: when we received intelligence of the French having marched from Barcelona to surprize us, I put myself at the head of our peasants, and, followed by some of the monks, advanced to engage the military banditti. We met at the village of Bruch, near Montserrat; the enemy had about four thousand chosen men, wel! equipped. My rustic force was about the same number, but badly armed, and few of them accustomed to military manœuvres. However, full of loyalty and ardour, in defence of our sacred mountain, and, committing ourselves to the protection of God, we gave them battle, and, after an obstinate and bloody contest, succeeded in driving them as far as Martorel, making in the course of three hours great slaughter amongst them. In this battle, one of the hermits fought bravely, and died gloriously. When the enemy balted at Molins de Rey, upon their retreat, I dispatched a messenger to the general commanding the French forces, with a challenge to meet me in personal combat with the sabre, but he refused, and with his forces returned to Barcelona." "On the 24th of the same month, the French returned in considerable force, to the attack, but were again repulsed. In this affair I slew the French commander." "On the 3d of January, 1809, about four o'clock in the afternoon, the enemy, amounting to about one thousand nine hundred men, under the command of General Davoust, again suddenly and unexpectedly appeared before the mountain. The monks fled to the summit, and I went to collect my peasants. The French entered the monastery, where, after killing two of our people left in it, they broke open our apartments, and carried off whatever was easily removable, even the linen which he had left behind. Davoust, with solemn affectation of piety, and declaring himself to be a good catholic, would not permit any of the soldiers to enter the church. His object was to secure a choice of the preclous treasure of our Virgin, which he doubtless felt sure of finding, but we had previously buried it, and the secret was confided to myself and two of my bre thren. Accordingly, the French commander returned to his impatient soldiers, who soon heard the mortifying in telligence, that the riches of our Lady of the Mount had been removed, and that no one knew where. "The next morning, the miscreants hearing that our peasants were collect. ing, retired about eight o'clock: as they descended, we dispatched about thirty of them by firing, and huiling down large stones upon them, from the heights which we occupied. We afterwards heard that General Duhesme ordered Davoust to be put under arrest for attacking our mountain without orders." Padre de Schilling informed me, that the present population of the mountain was as follows: Sacerdoci, or monks 56 17 24 7 70 COUNTRY OF MAJORCA. Having visited every object worthy of notice in the city of Palma, I joined an agreeable party on mules to the cele brated monastery of Valdemusa os Mosa. Our ride, which lasted about three hours, lay through an exquisitely, rich, and highly cultivated, country, com sisting of corn-land, vineyards, and woods of olive, carob, almond, pomegranate, and apple-trees. Male and female peasants with long hair, generally plaited, wearing large black felt hats, and dresses of blue serge, much in the style of those of Holland, displaying neatness and contentment, divided the labours of the field. Instead of the mantilla, a head-dress called the rebuzillo, or double handkerchief, is worn by the female, which covers the head, is fastened under the chin, falls over the shoulders and back, and is far from being becoming, The male peasants generally wear leather shoes and spatterdashes. In the streets of Palma, I met several youths attired as ecclesiastics, but I found that they did not belong to the church, and wore this dress only through economy, many of them not having a shirt to wear. It was now the almond-harvest, and merry groups, young and old, were ase sembled to collect this delicious fruit from 1 from the delicate trees that bore it. The eye could not turn but to banquet on Some beautiful or romantic object. Every cottage was a picture, and the industry and happiness of man seemed to co-operate with the beneficence of the soil and climate. There are no carriages for hire in this island; we were therefore indebted to the marquis of B—— for a tolerably constructed one, drawn by four mules to carry us part of the way to Soller, (pronounced Solia,) the capital of the orange country lying to the north-west of Palma. Our road lay through a continued scene of rural beauty, culture, and fertility, the interest of which was increased by the agreeable conversation of Senor Don Lorenzo and Senor Don Vallori, two -gentlemen who were pleased to pay me great attention in this island. We noticed the caper, which in various parts of this island grows wild, in considerable quantities, and forms a lucrative subject of exportation to the individual who is principally engaged in it. In no part of England have I seen more agricultural neatness and industry. Ail the stone fences, dividing one field from another, were kept in the highest order, as were the walls which embanked the rising grounds. In the immense woods of olives, by which we passed, I noticed some of the most venerable olivetrees I had yet seen; our intelligent companion told us, that there was no doubt of some of them being between four and five hundred years old, as appeared by the title-deeds and register of some of the estates; indeed several were perfect skeletons, and rested upon bare roots rudely resembling tripods. We partook of a noble dinner at Alfabia, distant from Palma about three hours, the country-house of Signor Zaffortesa, than which it would be difficult to conceive any spot under heaven more beautiful or tranquil. The riches of this gentleman are very great. Upon the marriage of his brother, he presented him with three hundred thousand dollars, and two coaches filled with silver plate. Behind the house, which was spacious, were orchards of mulberry and almond trees, gardens abounding with the finest vegetables, fruits, orange and citron groves, a long and exquisite treillage of the most luscious vines, with numerous jet d'eaux playing on each side between every arch, whilst the air was perfumed with the fragrance of lavender and thyme growing wild, the whole secured on all sides by MONTHLY Mag. No. 215. lofty and picturesque mountains, covered nearly to their craggy suminits with olives. The grounds were supplied with water from a spacious tank, round the edges of which the cenlentrillo, a plant from which capillaire is maile, grew, and which, as we were informed, was a proof of the purity of the water; and I also noticed large myrtle-trees bearing a small fruit of a dark blue colour, which when ripe is eaten. In the chapel be. longing to the house, we were shewn the state chair of the ancient kings of Mas jorca; at dinner we were regaled with several delicious wines, the production of the island, the best of which, amongst the white wines, are called Mollar, Mal vasia, Giro, Montona, Pampol, and Muscadell; amongst the red, Binisalem, Banubufar Inca, and Son Berga. noticed two or three hawks hovering over the ground, but the island is said to be free from venomous animals. As the road beyond Alfabia is impassable for carriages, our friends returned to Palma, and we proceeded on mules over a rough road through a beautiful, rich, and mountainous, country, embel lished with many fine stately evergreen oaks and firs. Instead of saddles, our mules were provided with goat-skins and two panniers. The cruppers chiefly in use are made of wood. Their carts are just as simple; they will hold but little more than what a good sized English wheelbarrow will, and their unwieldiness is only to be accounted for by the extreme bad state of the roads, which are maintained by a slight tax upon the articles of life. The male peasants ride sideways, owing to which, and their full trowsers and large hats, at a little distance they may easily be mistaken for females: the children are whimsically enough carried in panniers upon asses. We reached the town of Soller, after a ride of about two hours, just as the sun was tinging with his last beam the vast groves of oranges which surround it to a great distance. In our way the peasants very courteously saluted us with "Bon dia tinga," or good day. Their language, we were told, differs somewhat from that used on the continent. It is said to be tinctured with Greek, Latin, Arabic, Languedocian, Catalonian, and Casti. lian, with a dash of Carthaginian, Syrian, and Gothic, words. The higher orders, and even the sailors generally speak Castilian. The town, which is said to contain about eight thousand inhabitants, the greater part of whom are orange 4N farmers, |