Sidor som bilder
PDF
ePub

We soon found ourselves on the shores of Derwentwater. This beautiful lake dear to the remembrance of all who have ever perused the "Pleasures of Memory," is three miles in length, and a mile and a half in its greatest breadth. It is surrounded by mountains and crags, in which the soul of Salvator Rosa would have found delight; and contains several small but picturesque, and richlywooded islands, amongst which are Lord's Island, St. Herbert's Island, Vicar's Island, and Ramp Holme. Lord's Island, covered with plantations, is the largest; and is so named from its being the stronghold in former days of the Radcliffes, Earls of Derwentwater, whose estates were forfeited after the rebellion of 1715. On St. Herbert's Island are the remains of a hermitage, said to have been fixed here by St. Herbert, the contemporary and friend of St. Cuthbert of Durham, in the seventh century;-two saints of whose history but little is known. The reader will remember the lines of Mr. Rogers, in which he describes Florio and Julia sailing on Derwentwater.

Down by St. Herbert's consecrated grove,

Whence erst the chanted hymn, the tapered rite,
Aroused the fisher's solitary night.

A floating island is also to be seen sometimes on Derwentwater, and is said to have made its last ap

pearance in the summer of 1842. It never remains long above the surface. The phenomenon-which, from the rarity of its occurrence, few tourists have a chance of witnessing, is generally attributed to the agglomeration of decaying vegetable matter; which is buoyed up by the plentiful generation of gases. In 1842, when the mass was pierced with a boathook, carburetted hydrogen and azote issued in abundance.

The weather was not propitious to us; for when we were half-way to Lodore, the sky was again obscured the mountain tops were veiled in mist, and a thick drizzling rain began to fall. We would not, however, turn back, having proceeded so far, but pushed on to the little inn, where we expected to be able to dry and refresh ourselves. Glaramara, and his "azure compeers in Borrodale," were hidden from our sight, and we were too anxious to reach Lodore, to stay at Barrow, where, as we learned from a travelling packman whom we met, there was also a cascade, much admired by visitors to the Lakes. We saw, however, the imposing front of Wallow Crag, and the deep cleft in its face, which bears the name of the Lady's Rake, from the circumstance, it is said, of the Countess of Derwentwater having made her escape from Lord's Island over the lake, and up this ravine, when the intelligence of her husband's arrest reached her.

On arriving at the inn we took such refreshment as the place afforded-the sight of a fire not being a part of it; and then, as the rain abated a little, set out for the Fall. A foot-path leads through a garden and field behind the inn, on pursuing which for five minutes, or less, the traveller comes in sight of the far-famed Lodore. Beautiful it certainly is-all mountain torrents are; and its accompaniments of rock and wood are wild and imposing. I had expected from the admirable poem of Southey, in which sound and sense agree so remarkably, that Lodore was at least equal to Foyers in Invernesshire: but it was nothing of the kind when we saw it. To be sure, there was little water, but-" Foyers rejoicing Foyers, even after a dry season, and with less water than Lodore had on the day of our visit, is fifty times more magnificent. After incessant rains, Lodore may deserve a higher character, but in the then state of its waters, it was little, if at all, superior to Stockgill Force. I remained however, for fully half an hour among its crags, and beautiful birch trees, but my companion left me to myself; not because he did not admire the Fall-but because he had one of his own from a slippery piece of rock into a pool about two feet deep. He scrambled out without difficulty ;—and retired to the inn to take his wet boots off, leaving me to my meditations.

The stream of Lodore issues from a little circular

[graphic][merged small][merged small][merged small]
« FöregåendeFortsätt »