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It would have been a very proper addition to the benediction of the Christian traveller, had he also desired for them that it might be granted them to know that Almighty Being to whom he thus commends them. With respect to that sweet innocence, of which the signs, in countenance and manner, were admitted as so infallible, as we are to consider our Author as rather, perhaps, recording the impression made on him at the time, than expressing an ultimate opinion, we may well assume he has since learned enough to convince him that a man must be more than a few hours, or a few days, in the society of those gentle and harmless tribes, to know all that there is under their meekness of aspect. At the same time we think it may be marked and blamed as a defect of reflection, that the consideration of the vicinity in which this particular sample of apparent innocence was presented, should not have been a warning against so easy a faith in appearances. The comprehensive testimony of history and moral geography, unites with the probability of reasoning, to forbid our trusting any appearances implying such an anomaly as an uncorrupted state of character and society under the shadow, and almost the eaves-droppings of a cluster of pagodas, fraught and fuming with the pestilential abomiuations of Seeva and Vishnou, for it was in the immediate precincts of Conjeveram that Mr. W. felt this delectable complacency in the amiable qualities of the species. He passed directly from the bowers of these pure and happy beings, into the premises of their teachers and their gods, and found himself confronted by a pagoda which, with its accessory temples, mausoleums, and oratories, required a wall of near a mile in circumference to guard the consecrated site from profane intrusion. The Englishmen, however, with their guide, but no others of their native attendants, were permitted to enter the great court or Those attendants might amuse and edify themselves, if they pleased, by contemplating the carvings which ornamented the masonry of the wall, and which were rich and elaborate, representing mystic figures in grotesque attitudes, as well as 'fanciful decorations.'

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Our admiration was extreme when, on entering the gateway, we saw the great number of buildings, of costly materials, and of more costly workmanship, which glittered before us. One in particular claimed our admiration. It was a monumental pillar, erected by a Brahmin, who was at the time of our visit the chief priest of this pagoda, to the memory of his father. This pillar was made of copper, richly gilt with burnished gold, was thirty feet high, and about six in diameter at the base; it stood on a pedestal twelve feet in height, with steps to the shaft of the pillar. Not far from the golden pillar stood a large, spacious, and beautiful temple, which was the largest of all the numerous buildings within the walls. We ascended into it by a

Night of twelve steps. The roof at the entrance is supported by pillars twelve feet high, each pillar being ornamented by grotesque, and some disgusting figures. The interior of the buildings is disposed into four long aisles, or passages, extending from the one end to the other. We were permitted to walk through one of the aisles, and had an opportunity of seeing the vast extent, richness, and beauty of the building. It contained one thousand pillars; each pillar, highly ornamented, supports six lamps, which are all lighted at some of the festivals celebrated in honour of Vishnou. These festivals are not permitted to be seen by any but the worshippers of Vishnou.'

The town appears to consist chiefly of a regular street, near a mile long, with virandas, and fine trees planted in front of the houses, which, being for the most part inhabited by people whe have business with the gods, are, as might be expected, more handsome and commodious than the houses of ordinary towns, The choultry where the Englishmen were to lodge, a large building kept for the accommodation of the collector of the duties during his periodical residence at this station, was found in the full occupancy of white and brown spotted squirrels, and a species of crows, all perfectly tame and familiar.' A little less of this familiarity would sometimes have been more agreeable to their visiters, on whose viands they committed alarming depredations. The extensive garden also was found to be inhabited, but by a tribe whose familiarity would have been considerably less amusing. It was in a neglected state, and over-run with long thick grass of luxuriant growth. Attempting,' says Mr. W. to explore this enclosure, we were soon obliged to relinquish our design, on perceiving that at every step we disturbed large snakes and other noisome reptiles, the curse of this in other respects most happy climate.'

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Much as Vishnou has to shew in this consecrated territory, he is forced to acknowledge himself in the neighbourhood of his betters. The loftiest structure attests the superiority of Seeva. From a basis of great extent, (of which Mr. Wathen should have given us an actual or conjectural measurement,) this edifice towers up to its summit by fifteen stories or stages, progressively contracting in horizontal dimensions nearly to the top, and each ascended by a ladder of fifteen rounds. Of whatever could be seen of this most venerable mansion, he appears to have made, in several visits, an attentive survey, with his pencil constantly in his hand, and it is said that his companion went into the temple: no satisfactory inspection, however, was permitted of the form or contents of the interior. But certainly nothing to be seen there, even could he have been admitted by a ticket from Seeva himself, would have deserved a look in comparison with what he was so elated in contemplating from the summit, and

has really thrown himself, which he rarely does, into a little extravagance of language in celebrating.

'Never had I witnessed so beautiful and so sublime a prospect. It so far surpassed every idea which I had or could have formed of its grandeur and effect, that I was almost entranced in its contemplation. I forgot all the world beside, and felt as if I could have continued on this elevated spot for ever. To whichever point of the compass I turned, the view was equally wonderful, new, and enchanting. The eye of man, I am persuaded, never could, from any other spot in the universe, survey a scene more grand, beautiful, and interesting. I distinctly saw above forty villages, with their pagodas and temples, imbosomed in trees of the most lively verdure, presenting every shade of green according to the distance; each village having its spacious tank, glistening like a mirror. I could even discern the tombs adorned with drooping cypresses. I could distinguish some of the villages (with which our guide was well acquainted) at the extreme distance of near forty miles.' p. 67.

It would seem that demons have a more symmetrical notion, than men, of the proportion to be maintained between the house of a personage of rank and his other accommodations. The carriages of Seeva were found to correspond, in a respectable degree, in point of dimensions, to his mansion.

We stopped to examine two very large carriages, or moveable towers, the wheels of which were more than sixteen feet in diameter. They are ornamented with curious carvings, and are used in processions which are made at particular seasons of the year in honour of Siva, or Sheeva, the symbol of power, and also the avenger. They are drawn along, having the images of the god within them, by near two hundred men, with ropes. These carriages are called rutters ; and when they are drawn in their processions, it is not uncommon, as we were informed, for very superstitious devotees, and those unhappy persons who by crimes have lost their cast, to throw themselves in the way of these enormous wheels, that they may be crushed to death, and be thus offered as voluntary sacrifices to the offended deity.'

We should not so well know what to say of the devil's tastei regard to attendants; but perhaps he could not have done better than crowd his apartments, courts, and avenues, with Brahmins and monkeys. Our Author had occasion particularly to notice the high consideration enjoyed in the town by these latter retainers of the demon proprietor.

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The secondary style in which Vishnou is obliged to hold his court here, perhaps induces an affectation of peculiar and extraordinary sanctity and mystery. On approaching,' says our explorer, another sinall temple we were not permitted to enter. "We peeped through the door, and plainly perceived a frightful

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' representation of Vishnou, with a lamp burning before it, and Brahmins performing some of their rites. This small temple " was a kind of sanctum sanctorum, as we were informed that none but the priests were at any time permitted to enter it.' When will the traveller in the same region have to report that Another Power has routed all these infernal peers and rivals, and left their fanes, (if the emancipated population shall endure them to stand,) but the mouldering monuments of the abolished kingdom of darkness and iniquity? It is but a faint omen of such a fate that their priests and idolaters have received from the appearance of a Christian Armenian church, which, though in a ruinous state, Mr. W. was as much surprised as pleased to find 'in the midst,' as he says, 'of this strong hold of idolatry.' There was a slight failure of his characteristic curiosity a day or two before his quitting Madras; or rather it was, as he says, that his courage failed. Two young Brahmins, who had for some offence forfeited their privileges and lost their caste, suffered the voluntary punishment of being swung in the air by hooks fastened in their backs, which they endured, as he learned from spectators, with the most perfect fortitude. They thus, according to the account given to him, regained their caste. It has been very commonly asserted by writers on the Hindoo institutions, that forfeited caste can never, in any way, be retrieved; but certainly we have learned, from experience, to place little reliance on the accuracy of any professedly systematic exposition of their religious' economy. It would appear that the vast rubbish of their sacred literature and laws, taken together with their practical customs, forms an infinite jumble of all manner of contradictions, from which it is not for mortal man to draw out any consistent and authentic scheme of doctrinal and preceptive institutes. Partly on this account we have passed with little attention or interest over the abstract of the mythology and ritual of the Hindoos which Mr. W. has attempted, on the authority of several of our Anglo-Indian literati. There is more use in his description of some of the more secular parts of their national customs, and the statistical details concerning Madras given for the information of the numerous trading people who will now visit India.

One of the most curious and entertaining parts of the book, is the account of Pulo Penang, a most beautiful island, with a British fort, at the entrance of the Strait of Malacca, Here the Hope was at anchor more than a month; and no visiter to the island has ever, probably, made a more active improvement of the time than our Author. From the shore to the elevated summit of the island he traversed and re-traversed, with a vigilant eye and a rapid pencil; and nothing came amiss to him, from the accomplished ladies at the little seat of government, to the

serpents that in multitudes approached or crossed his path in his rambles, and the still more deadly Malay with his threatening kreese. But, indeed, he will hardly allow us to apply this epithet to this savage. He will have it that the ferocity of this wild beast might be charmed out of him by an easy incantation, and he has his example ready.

It was my design (in company with one of the midshipmen of the Hope) to gain the summit of a hill I had seen from the Portuguese chapel; and for that purpose, after we had proceeded about a mile on the road, we turned off, in order to make a shorter cut to the object of our walk; and following a narrow path-way, we soon found ourselves in a thick grove of cocoa-trees. Several cottages stood near, from one of which a man, with wild and savage looks, rushed out with his kreese in his hand. These kreeses are long knives or daggers, two-edged, and said to be generally poisoned, that the least wound might be fatal. We expected to be attacked by this savage, and knowing we were not strong enough to oppose such an enemy with success, we determined to try the effect of gentleness and amenity, and fortunately succeeded. The fierce demeanour was changed to kindness, and the threatening frowns to respectful looks. Our smiles gave him confidence, and on our lookig earnestly at some very large cocoa-nuts, which hung in clusters over our heads, our new acquaintance climbed up a tree, and threw down two of a large size. They were husked and opened in a moment, and he presented one to each of us. They contained near a quart of delicious milk each.

The Malays are represented by travellers, and the officers of English ships, as savages, who make no scruple of murdering every straggler they find wandering unarmed in their woods and grounds. If some instances of this kind have taken place, I am afraid that some blame might be due to the intruders-hot headed young men, perhaps, full of spirits, wanton, and insulting The man we encountered, undoubtedly expected to be annoyed by us; otherwise his conduct, on finding us peaceable and armless would not have been changed so readily. I have ever found gentleness, suavity, and mildcess, united with truth and sincerity, the safest passports in the journey through life.'

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From the happy temperament of our traveller, we have no doubt he went to sleep at night with perfect calmness af er such an adventure in the day, and after finding the house infested with a few snakes, scorpions, and centipedes in the evening. says he shail often apostrophize this little island as St. Preux, in Eloise, did those of Iinian and Juan Fernandez.' Still, however, in doing so, we think he must recollect the Malays and the serpents,

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The climate,' he says, of this isle, although within five degrees of the equator, is temperate and equal-refreshed constantly by the

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