female lips. But I have seen the weed wrapt in the leaf of maize in tiny rolls scarcely thicker than a bodkin, professedly mode for this unholy purpose.

"No present is so acceptable to a Spaniard as some choice Habanas; nothing conciliates his good will like the offer of a cigar. Is he in a towering passion, foaming with rage? a cigar produces a magical effect; calms him down, like oil upon the waters; changes the lion into a lamb. Does he threaten you with violence or robbery? the cigar, presented at this critical moment, will at least insure civil treatment. On this account it is always advisable for the traveller in Spain, even though no smoker, to provide himself with a stock of cigars wherewith to propitiate the favour of all men. El cigarro es alcahuete-the cigar is a procurer,' says the proverb. It is the medium of introduction to any person, or to any house. If you wish to smoke, it is almost a sacred duty to supply you with a light; you may knock at any door, and the bows and compliments for the civilities rendered can be made the prelude to further acquaintance. The cigar levels for a time all distinctions. The noble could not refuse to take the cigar from his mouth to assist the unbelighted peasant, who would not scruple to demand this common act of courtesy. Time, indeed, would fail to tell of the wonders to be wrought by a simple roll of tobacco-leaf.

"Rarely have I met with a Spaniard who did not smoke, and never with one who used a pipe of any description. The desire of all classes, indeed, seems to be to smoke with as much delicacy as possible; few there are who do not cut up their cigars into cigarillos. The higher classes do not often smoke within doors, but the middle and lower smoke at every hour and in every place. In their hands before, after, and even during meals; at home, in business, on the prado, in the public room or conveyance; and sometimes even in the theatre, is the cigar to be seen; nay, I remember in a public office at Seville, a smouldering rope's end tied to a column, that the clerks might have at hand wherewithal to light their cigars. A Spaniard and his cigar are inseparable."

Spanish hospitality and courteousness are proverbial. A stranger will seldom be invited to dinner, for the pleasures of the table are little understood or thought of by the people, temperance being a prominent trait of the national character. When the traveller is first introduced to a Spanish family, he is told by the master or mistress that the house and all it contains is at his disposal; and such showers of compliments are poured upon him, that a blunt John Bull, we presume, finds it scarcely possible to open his mouth in reply.

Another peculiarity in the hospitality of the people of Spain, and one which cannot always be agreeable, is, that on entering an ice-house or the like, with one of them, and, on asking for the bill of fare you will find that it has already been paid. Then to pass from civil and flattering attentions, to humour and gaiety of disposition, it is said that the Andaluz resembles the Irishman, with this difference, that

instead of making bulls, like Paddy, his great delight is to fight and slay them. Again, as pride distinguishes the Englishman, and vanity the Frenchman, so does conceit the Spaniard of Andalucia. He has that mixture of pride and vanity, which, unlike either of those qualities when pure, produces a neutral effect. Had he more of either, he might, like the Briton or Frenchman, arrive at distinction, but these qualities are so nearly balanced in his mental constitution, that, when the desire of fame prompts him to exertion, pride steps in, arrests his progress, and tells him to be satisfied with himself as he is: when regard for his own consequence is his incentive, it carries him forward but a few steps, for his vanity presently interferes, and so engages him in blazoning abroad the little he has done, as to make him forget he has yet more to do."

Such are some of the features which are said to characterize the But it is to be remembered that the natives province of Andalucia. of the several great territorial divisions of Spain exhibit in each different and distinct features.

Abiding still on the fair side, or where the less questionable traits distinguish the Spaniard, and Spanish society, let us follow the author on his leaving the country to Gibraltar, and mark the contrasts which he draws :

66 What more than all must strike the traveller who enters the Fortress from Spain, is the state of society on the Rock. On coming from a country where every one is disposed to be pleased and sociable with all around him-where distinctions in rank never interfere with the claims of courtesy-where the highest and lowest can meet without the risk of degrading the one or unduly exalting the other-where the poor are not constantly reminded of their inferiority by the rich, but where the Go with God, friend !' of the peasant is answered by the noble with a similar salutation, the contrast in the state of society at Gibraltar is calculated to make the English traveller (if not deeply imbued with home prejudices) ashamed of, or disgusted with, his countrymen. Here is seen, under its most glaring aspect, that narrow pride, whether of rank or wealth, which is perhaps the worst feature in the English character, and certainly the most disgusting to foreigners. The officers of the garrison look upon the civilians, with a very few exceptions among the British, as immeasurably inferior to themselves; they despise the natives of the Rock, many of whom are of great respectability and wealth, as mere 'scorpions;' and regard foreigners as quite unworthy of their notice. This naturally begets in the civilians a hostile spirit, the long smouldering sparks of which, a short time before my arrival at Gibraltar, had burst into a flame on the citizens proposing to give a ball to the lady of the Governor, Sir Alexander Woodford.'

After these and a few other features of national character, and certain positive or negative virtues, as well as of favourable pictures of the present condition of the country, we must notice things of a

darker, forbidding, and ominous kind, which it requires very little prying into the volumes before us to discover.

Intemperance in the matters of the table, we have heard, is not a national vice; but it is also stated that a number of assassinations are committed in Andalucia, when parties are under the influence of intoxicating liquors; for then the slightest provocation may tempt any one of the irritable people of that province to draw his knife on the real or imaginary offender. Again, the women are described as loose and exceedingly given to unchaste habits; what then must the men be? Oriental idleness as well as ignorance are also charged against the frail sex. Bigotry and superstition characterize the peasantry; scepticism and infidelity the citizens of large towns. Then, as to the condition of the State, the picture is extremely gloomy. There is no necessity for us to allude to the distracted posture of affairs, or the cruelties, the relentless practices, of the divided kingdom. But an account of one instance of the lamentable decay that seems to have set its seal upon every public department, will indicate more than any general sketchof evils and horrors. We follow the tourist to a Dock-yard

On

A short sail brought us to Caraca, the once famous navy-yard of Cadiz. Passing through a gateway surmounted by the royal arms, I entered an immense yard, covered with rusty anchors of every size, one side stood a large shed, containing a few ships' boats, all in a state of decay. Further on, were some fine dry docks, built of stone, and in perfect order; but instead of the first rates they were capable of receiving, they contained only the lower timbers of vessels rotting under water. Hard by, was a large building in which a number of presidiarios (galley slaves), under the surveillance of a few soldiers, were engaged in pumping the water out of the docks. This, my conductor, informed me, was not because the dock was wanted for use, but merely to employ the men, most of whom looked ready for any mischief, if not kept from it by hard labour. There was a steam-engine in the building, for the purpose of emptying the docks, but like everything else around, it was out of order and not in use. Beyond these docks were immense reservoirs for seasoning ship timber, of which there was enough in the water to construct a fleet, and it appeared to have lain undisturbed for many years. The yard was bounded on the west by the long wall of the rope-house, now ruined and desolate. At the southern end of this, were other roofless buildings, whose bare, tottering walls afforded nestling places to numerous hawks, which darted screaming from their crannies at our approach; while wild rabbits chased each other over the fallen rubbish below."

The officer, who accompanied the author round the yard, said that the Spanish navy, at the time consisted of but two liners, both at Havannah, five frigates, four corvettes, a few brigs, steamers and gun-boats. How different was it some forty or fifty years ago? But even then Spain was rapidly on the decline; and yet she had

not at that period lost her vast colonies. How much farther she is to descend in the scale of nations, or what may be her condition half a century hence, it is impossible to perceive; but that she has not yet reached the lowest stage of degradation, and feebleness, or the utmost degree of civil distraction, may be confidently predicted. We are not aware that one hopeful symptom has recently discovered itself either in the government or among the people and the natural and inevitable tendency of nations, as well as of individuals, is to advance or retrogade; there is no fixedness and stationary condition in human affairs. If there be not convalescence, the weight and the inveteracy of disease must make sure strides towards dissolution.

ART. XII.-A Journal written during an Excurson in Asia Minor. By CHARLES FELLOWS. London: Murray. 1839.

THE regions and countries comprised in the name Asia Minor, which at one period were the theatre of splendid actions and productions of art, the centre of unlimited commerce, the nursery of vast wealth, and the themes of immortal song, have long formed a spectacle of natural, mercantile, moral, and intellectual dissolution and darkness, that reads a solemn lesson to mankind. Why, immense tracts of these countries, it has for centuries been next to impossible for travellers to penetrate, so great has been the physical revolutions, and the desolation that have overtaken them; or imminently perilous on account of the barbarized tribes that occupy many of its passes and valleys. But owing to the very violent and almost complete state of these revolutions and this desolation, no regions offer so many interesting relics to the antiquary. It is with pleasure that we have it in our power to add, that the field in its breadth and length is now attracting an extraordinary degree of curiosity on the part of the learned and the searchers into antiquity; that the very volume before us, that its author's example and influence are in no inconsiderable degree, operating towards the maintenance and the increase of this curiosity, which, the more that it is indulged and acted upon, must tend to the correction, the enlargement, and illustration of ancient history, of classical learning, of architecture and sculpture, and of all that can indicate what were the origin, manners, and character of various celebrated nations.

Mr. Fellows's volume, while modestly put forward, and unpretending in the manner of its details, is, as far as he has gone, and according to his opportunities, one of the most sensible and satisfactory books of travels that has recently appeared. Nor was his route so limited as that of the majority of those who in these modern times have visited portions of Asia Minor for like purposes. In fact, he penetrated to some regions where new discoveries were to be made, and which he did not fail to realize. Portions of what is now

known by the name of Anatolia or Anadhouly, including Lydia, Mysia, Bithynia, Phrygia, Pisidia, Lycia, and Caria, thus became to him almost unbroken ground. Part of his own prefatory expla nations will best outline the objects of his pursuits, and the nature of the interest which attaches to the country visited. He says,

"As the most interesting period of the history of this country was the time of its occupation by the Greeks, so the remains of their cities form now the chief attraction to the traveller. These cities, some of them of very remote antiquity, all had their origin prior to the conquest of the country by the Romans, in the third century of the Christian era, after which time that people were nominally the possessors of the country, and the Roman taste was visibly encroaching on the Greek, in works of art. About the age of Constantine, the Christians began to produce a still greater change in the architecture of the many cities of which they had possession, including the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse, piling up buildings in a style very different from the pure Greek. Next came the Venetians, whose slight fortifications, built of the remains of ruined cities, are seen on every coast, and in every important mountain pass. The conquest by the present occupants, the Turks, succeeded in the fourteenth century. Their architectural works are few, and of a character so peculiar as to render them easily distinguishable from the earlier buildings by which they are surrounded."

The inhabitants consist chiefly of Turks, our author believing that the descendants of the Greeks, the people who, by the colonies which they established on the coasts of Asia Minor, first raised it to historical importance, do not now form a tenth of the population. It is difficult, however, to trace the national peculiarities of the two races, the costume, and even the language of both being so mixed as to throw difficulties in the way of discovery and distinction.

Of the contrasted characters of the two races Mr. Fellows has not always entertained the same opinions. He tells us that at the time of his arrival among them, he was strongly biased in favour of the Greeks, and equally prejudiced against the Turks, but that a personal intimacy with the people, especially when in situations where they were remote from every restraint but those which religion imposed, wrought a decided change in his sentiments. He gives some striking illustrations of the primitive simplicity, honesty, and hospitality of the Turks. In Phrygia, for example, which Europeans have seldom thought it worth their while to traverse or resort to with a view to traffic, so as to initiate the inhabitants, he found these engaging features of manners and character to be remarkably displayed. In the course of an excursion from Cotyæium, he was obliged to stop to feed the horses at the little village of Arracooe. A traveller had just arrived; and as the village, consisting only of a few huts, is too small to have a governor, a house has been built for strangers, which is as good as any in the place,