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CONTENTS.
living City.-Indian Tradition respecting this City.-Probably has never been
visited by the Whites.-Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise.-Depar-
ture.- San Pedro.-Virtue of a Passport.-A difficult Ascent.-Mountain
Scenery.-Totonicapan.-An excellent Dinner.--A Country of Aloes." River
of Blood."-Arrival at Quezaltenango
Page 180
CHAPTER XII.
Quezaltenango.-Account of it.-Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity.
-Appearance of the City.-The Convent.-Insurrection.-Carrera's March
upon Quezaltenango.-His Treatment of the Inhabitants.-Preparations for
Holy Week The Church.-A Procession.-Good Friday.-Celebration of the
Resurrection.-Opening Ceremony.-The Crucifixion.-A Sermon.-Descent
from the Cross.-Grand Procession.-Church of El Calvario.-The Case of
the Cura.-Warm Springs of Almolonga
203
CHAPTER XIII.
-
Journey continued.-A Mountain Plain. - Lost Guides. A trying Moment.-
Agua Calientes. A magnificent View.- Gold Ore.- San Sebastiano.- Gue-
guetenango.- Sierra Madre.-A huge Skeleton.-The Ruins.- Pyramidal
Structures.-A Vault.-Mounds.-A welcome Addition.-Interior of a Mound.
-Vases,-Ascent of the Sierra Madre.-Buena Vista.-The Descent.-Todos
Santos.- San Martin.-San Andres Petapan.-A Forest on Fire.-Suffering
of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.-San Antonio de Guista
CHAPTER XIV.
221
Comfortable Lodgings.-Journey continued.-Stony Road.-Beautiful River.-
Suspension Bridge.-The Dolores.- Rio Lagertero.- Enthusiasm brought
down.-Another Bridge.-Entry into Mexico.-A Bath.-A Solitary Church.
-A Scene of Barrenness.-Zapolouta.-Comitan.-Another Countryman.—
More Perplexities. - Official Courtesy. - Trade of Comitan. - Smuggling. —
Scarcity of Soap.
240
CHAPTER XV.
Parting. Sotaná.-A Millionaire.-Ocosingo.-Ruins.-Beginning of the Rainy
Season. A Female Guide.-Arrival at the Ruins.-Stone Figures.-Pyrami-
dal Structures.-An Arch.-A Stucco Ornament.-A Wooden Lintel.—A cu-
rious Cave. Buildings, &c.- A Causeway. More Ruins.-Journey to Pa-
lenque.-Rio Grande.-Cascades.-Succession of Villages.-A Maniac.-The
Yahalon.-Tumbala.-A wild Place.-A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.-
Indian Carriers.-A steep Mountain.-San Pedro
CHAPTER XVI.
255
A wild Country.-Ascent of a Mountain.-Ride in a Silla-A precarious Situa-
tion. The Descent-Rancho of Nopa-Attacks of Moschetoes.-Approach
to Palenque.-Pasture Grounds.-Village of Palenque.—A crusty Official.—A
courteous Reception.-Scarcity of Provisions.-Sunday.-Cholera.-Another
Countryman. The Conversion, Apostacy, and Recovery of the Indians.-River
Chacainal.-The Caribs.-Ruins of Palenque
CHAPTER XVII.
273
Preparations for visiting the Ruins. A Turn-out. - Departure.-The Road.-
Rivers Micol and Otula.-Arrival at the Ruins.-The Palace.-A Feu-de-joio.
-Quarters in the Palace.-Inscriptions by former Visiters.-The Fate of
Beanham.-Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque.-Visit of Del Rio.-Expe-
dition of Dupaix.-Drawings of the present Work.-First Dinner at the Ru-
ins.-Mammoth Fireflies.-Sleeping Apartments.-Extent of the Ruins.—Ob
stacles to Exploration.-Suffering from Moschetoes.
CHAPTER XVIII.
289
Precautions against the Attacks of Moschetoes.-Mode of Life at Palenque.-
Description of the Palace.- Piers- Hieroglyphics.-Figures.- Doorways.-
Corridors.-Courtyards.-A wooden Relic.--Stone Steps.-Towers.-Tablets.
-Stucco Ornaments, &c., &c.-The Royal Chapel.-Explorations.—An Aque.
duct.-An Alarm.-Insects.-Effect of Insect Stings.-Return to the Village
of Palenque 308
CHAPTER XIX.
A Voice from the Ruins.-Buying Bread.-Arrival of Padres.-Cura of Palenque.
-Card Playing.-Sunday.-Mass.-A Dinner Party.-Mementoes of Home.-
Dinner Customs.-Return to the Ruins.-A marked Change.-Terrific Thun-
der.-A Whirlwind.-A Scene of the Sublime and Terrible
CHAPTER XX.
. 325
Plan of the Ruins.-Pyramidal Structure.-A Building.-Stucco Ornaments.-
Human Figures.-Tablets.-Remarkable Hieroglyphics.-Range of Pillars.-
Stone Terrace.-Another Building.-A large Tablet.-A Cross.-Conjectures
in regard to this Cross.-Beautiful Sculpture.-A Platform.-Curious De-
vices.-A Statue.-Another Pyramidal Structure, surmounted by a Building.—
Corridors. A curious Bas-relief.-Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas relief —
Tablets and Figures -The Oratorio-More Pyramidal Structures and Build
ings.-Extent of the Ruins.-These Ruins the Remains of a polished and pe-
culiar People.-Antiquity of Palenque
CHAPTER XXI.
. 337
Departure from the Ruins.-Bad Road.—An Accident.-Arrival at the Village.
-A Funeral Procession.-Negotiations for Purchasing Palenque.-Making
Casts.-Final Departure from Palenque.-Beautiful Plain.-Hanging Birds'-
nests.-A Sitio.-Adventure with a monstrous Ape.-Hospitality of Padres.-
Las Playas.-A Tempest.-Moschetoes.-A Youthful Merchant.-Alligators.
-Another Funeral.-Disgusting Ceremonials .
358
Embarcation.-An inundated Plain.-Rio Chico.-The Usumasinta.-Ric Pal-
isada.-Yucatan.- More Revolutions.-Vespers.-Embarcation for the Laguna.
-Shooting Alligators.-Tremendous Storm.-Boca Chico.-Lake of Terminos.
-A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest.-Arrival at the Laguna . Page 374
CHAPTER XXIII.
Laguna.-Journey to Merida.-Sisal.-A new Mode of Conveyance.-Village of
Hunucama.-Arrival at Merida.-Aspect of the City.-Fête of Corpus Dom-
ini.-The Cathedral.-The Procession.-Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian
Women.-Palace of the Bishop.-The Theatre.-Journey to Uxmal.-Ha-
cienda of Vayalquex.-Value of Water.-Condition of the Indians in Yucatan.
-A peculiar kind of Coach.-Hacienda of Mucuyche.-A beautiful Grotto 391
CHAPTER XXIV.
Journey resumed.-Arrival at Uxmal.-Hacienda of Uxmal.-Major-domos.-
Adventures of a young Spaniard.-Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal.-First Sight
of the Ruins.-Character of the Indians.- Details of Hacienda Life.-A delicate
Casc.-Illness of Mr. Catherwood.-Breaking up
CHAPTER XXV.
410
Ruins of Uxmal.-A lofty Building.--Magnificent View from its Doorway.-Pe
culiar sculptured Ornaments.--Another Building, called by the Indians the
House of the Dwarf.-An Indian Legend.-The House of the Nuns.-The
House of Turtles.-The House of Pigeons.-The Guard-house.-Absence of
Water. The House of the Governor.-Terraces.-Wooden Lintels.-Details
of the House of the Governor.-Doorways.-Corridors.-A Beam of Wood, in
scribed with Hieroglyphics.-Sculptured Stones, &c.
420
CHAPTER XXVI.
Exploration finished.-Who built these ruined Cities?-Opinion of Dupaix.-
These Ruins bear no Resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome.-
Nothing like them in Europe.-Do not Resemble the known Works of Japan
and China. Neither those of Hindu.-No Excavations found.-The Pyramids
of Egypt, in their original State, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids
of America.-The Temples of Egypt not like those of America.-Sculpture not
the same as that of Egypt.-Probable Antiquity of these Ruins.-Accounts of
the Spanish Historians.-These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the
Country at the time of the Spanish Conquest.-These Races not yet extinct 436
CHAPTER XXVII.
Journey to Merida.-Village of Moona.-A Pond of Water, a Curiosity.-Aboula.
-Indian Runners.-Merida.-Departure.-Hunucama.-Siege of Campeachy.
-Embarcation for Havana.-Incidents of the Passage.-Fourth of July at Sea.
-Shark-fishing.-Getting lost at Sea.-Relieved by the Helen Maria.-Pas
sage to New-York.-Arrival.-Conclusion.
458