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, INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

CENTRAL AMERICA. CHIAPAS,

YUCATAN.

BY JOHN L. STEPHENS, ESQ.,

AUTHOR OF "INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EQYPT, ARABIA 1-tIRIA. AND THE BOLT LARD," ETC.

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ABTfiUB STLAf.7 ftA-CCil

JUNE 1. 1«M

Kuterml, recording to Act of Congtcw, in the year 1841, by

Iiaki-kr & Brothers,

ill the Work'i OIIk» of the Southern District of NewVoik

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CHAPTER I.

Tint to the Volcano of Mnsaya.—Village of Masaya.—Lake of Masaya.— Ninth

n.—Aacent of the Volcano.—Account of it.—The Crater.—Deacent into it.—

Volcano of Nindiri.—Ignorance of the People concerning Objecta of Interest.—

Return to Maaaya.—Another Countryman.—Managua.—Lake of Managua.—.

Fishing.—Beautiful Scenery.—Matearea.—Quests del Relox.—Nagarotis.—

Crosses.—A Gamekeeper.—Pueblo Nuevo Page 7

CHAPTER II.

Beautiful Plain.—Leon.—Stroll through the Town.—Baneful Effects of Party

Spirit.—Scenes of Horror.—Unpleasant Intelligence.—Journey continued.—

A fastidious Beggar.—Chinandaga.—Gulf of Couchagua.—Visit to Realejo.—

Cotton Factory.—Harbour of Realejo.—El Viejo.—Port of Nagoscolo.— Im-

portance of a Passport.—Embarking Mules.—A Bungo.—Volcano of Cosagui-

na.—Eruption of 1835.—La Union .22

CHAPTER III.

Joomey to San Salrador.—A new Companion.—San Alejo.—San Miguel.—War

Alarms. — Another Countryman. — State of San Salvador. — River Lerapa.—

San Vicente.—Volcano of San Vicente.—Thermal Springa.—Cojutepeque.—

Arrival at San Salvador. — Prejudice against Foreigners. — Contributions.—

Pressgangs.—Vice-president Vigil.—Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.

—Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.—Departure from San Salvador 41

CHAPTER IV.

Contributions.—El Baranco de Guaramal.—Volcano of Izalco.—Depredations ol

Rascon.—Zonzonate.—News from Guatimala.—Journey continued.—Aguiaal

co.—Apeneca.—Mountain of Aguachapa.—Subterranean Fires.—Aguachapa.—

Defeat of Morazan.—Confusion and Terror 58

CHAPTER V.

Approach ol Carreia's Forces.—Terror of the Inhabitants.—Their Flight.—Sur

render of the Town.—Ferocity of the Soldiery.—A Bulletin.—Diplomacy.—A

Passport.—A Breakfast.—An Alarm.—The Widow Padilla.-An Attack.—De

feat of Can-era's Forces.—The Town taken by General Morazan —His Entry.

—The Widow's Son.—Visit to General Morazan.—His Appearance, Character,

&t—Plans deranged 74

CHAPTER VI.

Visit from General Morazan.—End of his Career.—Procuring a Guide.— Depar-

ture for Guatimala.—Fright of the People.—The Rio Paz.—Hacienda of Pal-

mita—A. fortunate Escape.—Hacienda of San Jose.—An awkward Predica-

ment.—A kind Host.—Rancho of Hocolilla.—Oratorio and Leon.—Rio de los

Esclavos.—The Village.—Approach to Guatimala.—Arrival at Guatimala.—A

Sketch of the Wars.—Defeat of Morazan.—Scene of Massacre . Page 93

CHAPTER VII.

Ruins of Quirigua.—Visit to them.—Los Amates.— Pyramidal Structure.—A

Colossal Head.—An Altar.—A Collection of Monuments.—Statues.—Charac-

ter of the Ruins.—A lost City.—Purchasing a ruined City . . .118

CHAPTER VIII.

Reception at the Government House.—The Captain in Trouble.—A Change of

Character.—Arrangements for Joumey to Palenque.—Arrest of the Captain.—

His Release.—Visit from a Countryman.—Dangers in Prospect.—Last Stroll

through the Suburbs.—Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.—Fearful

State of the Country.—Last Interview with Carrera.—Departure from Guati-

mala.— A Don Quixote. — Ciudad Vieja. — Plain of El Vieja. — Volcanoes,

Plains, and Villages.—San Andres Tsapa.—Dangerous Road.—A Molina . 125

CHAPTER IX.

journey continued.—Barrancas.—Tecpan Guatimala.—A noble Church.—A sa-

cred Stone.—The ancient City.—Description of the Ruins.—A Molina.—Anoth-

er Earthquake—Patzum.—A Ravine.—Fortifications. — Los Altos. — Godines.

—Losing a good Friend.—Magnificent Scenery.—San Antonio.—Lake of Ati
tan . 116

CHAPTER X.

Lake of Atitan.—Conjectures as to its Origin, &e.—A Sail on the Lake.—A dan-

gerous Situation.—A lofty Mountain Range.—Ascent of the Mountains.—Com-

manding View.—Beautiful Plain—An elevated Village.—Ride along the Lake.

—Solola.—Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiche.—Scenery on the Road.—Barrancas.

—San Thomas.—Whipping-posts.—Plain of Quiche.—The Village.—Ruins oi

Quiche.—Its History.—Desolate Scene.—A facetious Cura.—Description ol

the Ruins.—Plan.—The Royal Palace.—The Place of Sacrifice.—An Image.

—Two Heads, &C.—Destruction of the Palace recent.—An Arch . .161

CHAPTER XI.

Interior of a Convent.—Royal Bird of Quiche.—Indian Languages.—The Lord's

Prayer in the Quiche Language.—Numerals in the same Church of Quiche.

—Indian Superstitions.—Another lost City.—Tierra de Guerra.—The Abori

ginals.—Their Conversion to Christianity.—They were never conquered.—A

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