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CONTENTS. T

firing City.—Indian Tradition respecting this City.—Probably has never been

Tinted by the Whites.—Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise.—Depar-

ture.—San Pedro.—Virtue of a Passport.—A difficult Ascent.—Mountain

Scenery.—Totonicapan.—An excellent Dinner.—A Country of Aloes.—" River

of Blood."—Arrival at Quezaltenango Page 180

CHAPTER XII.

Quezaltenango.—Account of it.—Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity.

—Appearance of the City.—The Convent.—Insurrection.—Carrara's March

upon Quezaltenango—His Treatment of the Inhabitants.—Preparations for

Holy Week.—The Church.—A Procession.—Good Friday.—Celebration of the

Resurrection.—Opening Ceremony.—The Crucifixion.—A Sermon.—Descent

from the Cross.—Grand Procession.—Church of El Calvario.—The Case of

theCura.—Warm Springs of Almolonga 203

CHAPTER XIII.

Journey continued.—A Mountain Plain. — Lost Guides. — A trying Moment —

Agoa Calieutcs.—A magnificent View.— Gold Ore.— San Sebastiano.— Gue-

guetenango. — Sierra Madre.— A huge Skeleton. — The Ruins. — Pyramidal

Structures.—A Vault.—Mounds.—A welcome Addition.—Interior of a Mound.

—Vases.—Ascent of the Sierra Madre.—Buena Vista.—The Descent.—Todos

Santos.—San Martin.—San Andres Petapan.—A Forest on Fire.—Suffering

of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.—San Antonio de Guista . . .221

CHAPTER XIV.

Comfortable Lodgings.—Journey continued.—Stony Road.—Beautiful River.—

Suspension Bridge.— The Dolores.—Rio Lagcrtero.—Enthusiasm brought

down.—Another Bridge.—Entry into Mexico.—A Bath.—A Solitary Church.

—A Scene of Barrenness.—Zapolouta.—Comitan.—Another Countryman.—

• More Perplexities. — Official Courtesy. — Trade of Comitan. — Smuggling. —

Scarcity of Soap 240

CHAPTER XV.

Parting.—Sotana.—A Millionaire.—Ocosingo.—Ruins.—Beginning of the Rainy

Season.—A Female Guide.—Arrival at the Ruins—Stone Figures.—Pyrami dal Structures.—An Arch.—A Stucco Ornament.—A Wooden Lintel.—A cu-

rious Cave. — Buildings, &c—A Causeway.— More Ruins. — Journey to Pa-

lenque — Rio Grande.—Cascades.—Succession of Villages.—A Maniac—The

Yahalon.—Tumbala.—A wild Place.—A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.—

Indian Carriers.—A steep Mountain.—San Pedro 888

CHAPTER XVI.

A wild Country.—Ascent of a Mountain.—Ride in a Silla.—A precarious Situa-

tion.—The Descent —Rancho of Nopa.—Attacks of Moschetoes.—Approach

to Palenque.—Pasture Grounds.—Village of Palenque.—A crusty Official.—A
courteous Reception.—Scarcity of Provisions.—Sunday.—Cholera.—Another

Countryman.—The Conversion, Apostacy, and Recovery of the Indiana.—River

Chacamal.—The Caribs.—Ruins of Palenque 273

CHAPTER XVII.

Preparations for visiting the Ruins. — A Turn-out. — Departure.—The Road.-

Rivers Micol and Otula.—Arrival at the Ruins.—The Palace.—A Feu-de-joio.

—Quarters in the Palace.—Inscriptions by former Visiters.—The Fate of

Beanham.—Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque.—Visit of Del Rio.—Expe-

dition of Dupaix.—Drawings of the present Work.—First Dinner at the Ru-

ins.—Mammoth Fireflies.—Sleeping Apartments.—Extent of the Ruins.—Ob
atacles to Exploration.—Suffering from Moschetoes 235

CHAPTER XVIII.

Precautions against the Attacks of Moschetoes.—Mode of Life at Palenque.—

Description of the Palace.— Piers — Hieroglyphics.— Figures.—Doorways.—

Corridors.—Courtyards.—A wooden Relic—Stone Steps.—Towers.—Tablets.

—Stucco Ornaments, &c, &c—The Royal Chapel.—Explorations.—An Aque.

duct.—An Alarm.—Insects.—Effect of Insect Stings.—Return to the Village

of Palenque 308

CHAPTER XIX.

A Voice from the Ruins.—Buying Bread.—Arrival of Padres.—Cura of Palenque.

—Card Playing.—Sunday.—Mass.—A Dinner Party.—Mementoes of Home.—

Dinner Customs.—Return to the Ruins.—A marked Change.—Terrific Thun-

der.—A Whirlwind.—A Scene of the Sublime and Terrible . . .325

CHAPTER XX.

Plan of the Ruins.—Pyramidal Structure.—A Building.—Stucco Ornaments.—'

Human Figures.—Tablets.—Remarkable Hieroglyphics.—Range of Pillars.—

Stone Terrace.—Another Building.—A large Tablet.—A Cross.—Conjectures

in regard to this Cross.—Beautiful Sculpture.—A Platform.—Curious De-

vices.—A Statue.—Another Pyramidal Structure, surmounted by a Building.—

Corridors.—A curious Bas-relief.—Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas relief—

Tablets and Figures—The Oratorio—More Pyramidal Structures and Build

ings.—Extent of the Ruins.—These Ruins the Remains of a polished and pe-

culiar People.—Antiquity of Palenque 337

CHAPTER XXI.

Departure from the Ruins.—Bad Road.—An Accident.—Arrival at the Village.

—A Funeral Procession.—Negotiations for Purchasing Palenque.—Making

Casts.—Final Departure from Palenque.—Beautiful Plain.—Hanging Birds--

nesta.—A Sitio.—Adventure with a monstrous Ape.—Hospitality of Padres.—

Las Playas.—A Tempest.—Moschetoes.—A Youthful Merchant.—Alligators.

—Another Funeral.—Disgusting Ceremonials ...... 358

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CONTENTS. VU

CHAPTER XXII.

Embarcation.—An inundated Plain.—Rio Chico.—The Usumasinta.—Ric Pal-

isada — Yucatan.—More Revolutions.—Vespers.—Embarcation for the Laguna.

—Shooting Alligators.—Tremendous Storm.—Boca Chico.—Lake of Terminos.

—A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest.—Arrival at the Laguna . . Page 374

CHAPTER XXIII.

Laguna.—Journey to Merida.—Sisal.—A new Mode of Conveyance.—Village of

Hunucama.—Arrival at Merida.—Aspect of the City.—File of Corpus Dom-

ini.—The Cathedral.—The Procession.—Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian

Women.—Palace of the Bishop.—The Theatre.—Journey to Uxmal.—Ha-

cienda of Vayalquex.—Value of Water.—Condition of the Indians in Yucatan.

—A peculiar kind of Coach.—Hacienda of Mucuyche.—A beautiful Grotto 391

CHAPTER XXIV.

Joumey resumed—Arrival at Uxmal.—Hacienda of Uxmal.— Major-domos.—

Adventures of a young Spaniard.—Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal.—First Sight

of the Ruins.—Character of the Indians.—Details of Hacienda Life.—A delicate

Case.—Illness of Mr. Catherwood.—Breaking up 410

CHAPTER XXV.

Ruins of UxmaL—A lofty Building.—Magnificent View from its Doorway.—Pe

collar sculptured Ornaments.—Another Building, called by the Indians the

House of the Dwarf.—An Indian Legend.—The House of the Nuns.—The

House of Turtles.—The House of Pigeons.—The Guard-house.—Absence ol

Water.—The House of the Governor.—Terraces.—Wooden Lintels.—Details

of the House of the Governor.—Doorways.—Corridors.—A Beam of Wood, in

scribed with Hieroglyphics.—Sculptured Stones, ice. . . . . 420

CHAPTER XXVI.

Exploration finished.—Who built these ruined Cities?—Opinion of Dupaix.—

These Ruins bear no Resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome.—

Nothing like them in Europe.—Do not Resemble the known Works of Japan

and China.—Neither those of Hindu.—No Excavations found.—The Pyramids

of Egypt, in their original State, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids

of America.—The Temples of Egypt not like those of America.—Sculpture not

the same as that of Egypt.—Probable Antiquity of these Ruins.—Accounts of

the Spanish Historians.—These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the

Country at the time of the Spanish Conquest.—These Races not yet extinct 438

CHAPTER XXVII.

Journey to Merida.—Village of Moona.—A Pond of Water, a Curiosity.—Aboula.

—Indian Runners.—Merida.—Departure.—Hunucama.—Siege of Campeachy.

—Embarcation for Havana.—Incidents of the Passage.—Fourth of July at Sea.

—Shark-fishing.—Getting lost at Sea.—Relieved by the Helen Maria.—Pss

sage to New-York.—Arrival.—Conclusion .... .458

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