first part of the route leads to the bottom of the valley of Sihl, which is crossed by a bridge that connects the cantons of Zürich and Zug. The road is henceforth very steep on both sides of the lower Albis, but leads through a highly-cultivated and well-wooded country, abounding in rich slopes of pasture.

HORGEN (inns, Schwan and Lowe) is the place of embarkation for Zürich, and nothing more. The voyage is made by steam in one hour on

THE LAKE OF ZÜRICH.-The scenery on this lake is fine but less beautiful than that of Lucerne. On the southern shore, belonging to the canton of Schwytz, are seen pastures of the richest green, alternated with stripes of cultivated land and blooming orchards. Descending towards Zürich, the western bank slopes gently down to the lake, and is entirely covered with vineyards, gardens, meadows, and corn-fields, thickly studded with white cottages and country-houses. Behind this slope, and separated from it by a narrow valley, rise the rocky heights of the Albis, wooded to the summit. On the opposite or eastern bank, a plain stretches back for about two miles, laid out in gardens and meadows; among which bleaching and dye-houses, cotton and silk manufactories, are thickly sprinkled. The mountains of Glarus, the stately Glarnisch, with his snowy crown, and the blue-jagged peaks that rise from St. Gall, form a background worthy of the picture. The lake itself is about twenty-five miles in length, and varies from two to three in width. A carriage-road borders it on either bank, and at Rapperschwyl a wooden bridge, above three-quarters of a mile long, connects the northern and southern shores.

ZÜRICH.-Inns: Couronne d'Or, on the Quay, clean and comfortable; Hôtel Baur, one of the largest in Switzerland, charges moderate, a library and reading-room attached; Schwert; and Corbeau.

Zürich, the capital of the canton, has been called the intellectual capital of Switzerland. Its manufacturing supremacy is certainly incontestable. The inhabitants number about 15,000. The houses and streets of the inhabitants are scattered over a very wide space. In the most thickly inhabited parts of the town, where mills and manufactories stand on each side of the river, the streets are narrow and steep, and here and there traces of the ancient fortifications

are to be seen. Nearer the head of the lake the buildings grow larger and more handsome, and on the southern side of the great bridge the large houses, the paved footways, and the animation of the streets, speak for the rank of Zürich among the towns of Switzerland.

The general aspect of situation of Zürich is one of natural beauty, everywhere improved and heightened by the hand of industry. The shores of the blue lake are covered with vineyards, fruitful gardens, corn-fields, and cultivation of all kinds. Nowhere is a waste spot to be found; neat and cheerful dwellings, country-houses, and manufactories, extend in all directions. The town has vastly improved since the old walls and bastions have been shattered and cast into the lake. On the ground where the former wall stood, new and substantial buildings have been reared in modern taste, and surrounded with gardens and shrubberies. Rows of houses stretch away towards the mountains, and good public buildings, such as the cantonal school of the hospital, attest the progress of the town.

The traveller, intent on staying any considerable time in Zürich, should hire a lodging in one of the near suburbs, where he may live both cheaply and agreeably. Zürich resembles Munich in the meeting of all ranks in its coffeehouses, where the reigning burgomaster, the count, the military officer, and the millionaire, may be found in unpretending intercourse.

There are no great architectural monuments in Zürich to claim the stranger's attention. The Arsenal contains a large collection of ancient armour, and modern weapons, more than sufficient for all the men in the canton. Among the trophies is a standard taken from Charles the Bold. A cross-bow, said to have belonged to William Tell, if equally authenticated, would be the most interesting relic in the collection.

The City Library contains about 70,000 volumes. Here also are portraits of all the burgomasters that ever occupied the civic chair; a marble bust of Lavater; three letters from the unfortunate Lady Jane Grey to the reformer Bullinger; the Greek Bible of Zuinglius, and his portrait, with that of his daughter.

The churches of Zürich are more remarkable for their associations than their grandeur or beauty. That called

the Great Minster was the scene of the labours of Ulrich Zuinglius. The reformer first preached here on the first day of the year, 1519. The house in which he lived yet

stands on the Grosse Stadt.

Lavater, who was a born Züricher, was for four-and-twenty years the minister of the church of St. Peter. In the taking of the town by the French under Massena, September 26, 1799, he was wantonly shot by a French soldier, to whom he had just shown great kindness, and while he was in the act of comforting another of the invaders who was wounded. He lay for three months afterwards, suffering great agony, and was buried in the churchyard of St. ‹ Anne.

Having brought the tourist to Zürich, we must again return to Berne as a starting-point for other excursions.

BERNE TO LAUSANNE, BY FREIBURG.

This route, lying on the line between Geneva to Berne, is one of the most travelled in Switzerland. The Geneva diligence makes the journey in eleven hours, the distance being about fifty-four miles. There are posting-stations throughout its length.

"From Berne we hired a vehicle to convey us to Lausanne, staying one night on the road. The charge was 60 francs, and 8 francs bonnemain. We left Berne at seven

A. M., and arrived at Freiburg about half-past one o'clock. It would be advisable for travellers to leave earlier than we did; by so doing, they arrive at the Zahringer Hof in time to dine at the table d'hôte. We arrived when dinner was half over; and as the organ at Freiburg plays directly after the table d'hôte, you lose either dinner or music by arriving late. I should recommend persons who travel with a voiture from Berne to Lausanne to contrive to stay the night at Freiburg. Those who travel by diligence will be able to make the entire journey in the day."

For Freiburg the road leaves Berne by the handsome gate of Morat, the portals of which are surmounted by two enormous bears well carved in granite. For the first six or seven miles the road leads through a succession of large woods, from which the town derives its fuel. Beyond these the

country opens, and presents a picture of neatness and industry; the rich enclosure of pasture-land and the wellcultivated fields having a somewhat English appearance.

NEUENECK (inn, Hirsch, good), a village situated on the Seuse, is remarkable as the scene of a defeat which a body of French sustained at the hands of some Swiss militia, in 1798. The Swiss were only 2000 strong, but managed to kill or wound 1500 of the enemy, and take 18 pieces of cannon. They drove the French up the hill at the point of the bayonet, and chased them from every position. No prisoners were made. The Swiss loss was 173 killed, and a great number wounded. It was on the same day that the Swiss repulsed the French at Laupen and Gümminen, but, after all, ✦ were compelled to surrender Berne. The Seuse here is about midway between Freiburg and Berne, and marks the separation of these two cantons.

From this point a change in the dress, agriculture, religion, and inns is remarkable; the latter, at any rate, being for the worse. The language of the people, too, becomes divided, one half speaking French and the other German, and neither party being able to comprehend a single word uttered by the other.

About four miles to the right main road is Laupen, situated at the confluence of the Seuse and the Saane. Here the Bernese achieved their first military victory shortly after the foundation of their republic, and under Rodolph of Erlach defeated the mailed nobility of Burgundy, Alsace, Suabia, with the prince-bishops of Sion, and Lausanne, and Basle; in all 1200 knights, leading an army of 1500 infantry. On the 21st of June, 1339, Rodolph left Berne at the head of 4000 Bernese, 900 men of Uri, Schwytz, and Unterwalden, 300 men of Hasli, 300 from the Simmenthal, and 80 from Solothurn, and at midnight arrived at Bramberg, two miles from Laupen, which the enemy had been assailing. From this point, his rear protected by a forest, he could command the position of the enemy. Before the battle, an interlocution took place in the Homeric fashion between the leaders of the two armies. The Avoyer of Freiburg, in the course of the dialogue, said that the Bernese had swelled their ranks with women in disguise. Rodolph replied, that they would soon prove on which side were the men. The foremost of the Bernese then threw themselves upon the enemy, and were repulsed. The

ranks behind thought that they fled, and were about themselves to give way. But Erlach exclaimed, cheerfully, "Friends, the victory is ours! the cowardly among us are got rid of." He then advanced with the banner of Berne in his hand, and after an hour's terrific fighting the enemy took to flight. The ground from Oberwyl to Wyden was covered with the bodies of men, with horses, and with spoils. Eighty coronetted personages, all the chief people of Freiburg, 3000 foot soldiers, and 1500 horsemen, were left on the field of battle. In the feudal relations of those times D'Erlach, the Bernese leader, found himself opposed on the field of battle to Rodolph, count of Nydau, his superior lord. A few days before the encounter, D'Erlach went to the count, according to feudal custom, to ask permission to take the field. Rodolph haughtily conceded the request, observing, that "he, who had 200 knights amongst his followers, could very well afford the loss of a man."" The count was slain in battle, and such was the confidence reposed in D'Erlach, that the relatives of the deceased noble constituted him guardian of the young heir and administrator of his estate. At Neueneck the road becomes very hilly for some distance: from the height gained by this ascent the Alps may be seen for a considerable distance on a fine day. On nearing Freiburg a surprise awaits the traveller. The wood suddenly turns a point on the declivity of the hill near the town, and the valley of the Saane is disclosed. On the opposite height is Freiburg. The large new building seen on the top of the hill is the Jesuits' School. The old road by which alone Freiburg was formerly accessible from Berne led down into the deep valley of the Saane, and only reached the town after many toilsome circuits and ascents. We now, however, cross the gorge by the long wire bridge, which is flung lightly across the valley like a thread.

FREIBURG (inns, Zähringer Hof, very good; and Hôtel des Marchands, good), the capital of the canton of the same name, has about 9000 inhabitants. It is built partly on the edge of the precipitous ravine (150 feet deep) of the Saane, and partly in the ravine itself, so that the people in the upper town look over the chimneys of their neighbours below. The lower town is occupied by the poorer German-speaking portion of the population. The upper town, on the hill side, where stands the Pensionat and the great Jesuit-house, is