and the Maladière, are called the Cours. One of these houses, situated on a little hill, surrounded by some old trees, is Montrined, sometime the dwelling of Voltaire.

From Ouchy to Lausanne the road is steep; the chapel by the wayside is used for English worship. Among the villas which are seen to the left is that of St. Luce, the property of Madame Larochejacquelin; that of Beauséjour, which commands the road, was in 1802 the retreat of the Helvetic government, driven from Berne, and pursued by insurgent Federalists. Two years before, Bonaparte, about to cross the St. Bernard, lodged here. Among the houses of Lausanne which are seen from the Ouchy road, is that in which Gibbon composed the later volumes of his "Decline and Fall." It was in the "garden of four acres, laid out by M. Deyverdun," in front of this residence, that the historian experienced that tender melancholy of a liberal mind, which he so affectingly confesses in his autobiography

:

"It was on the day, or rather night of the 27th of June, 1787, between the hours of eleven and twelve, that I wrote the last lines of the last page in a summer-house in my garden. After laying down my pen, I took several turns in a berceau, or covered walk of acacias, which commands a prospect of the country, the lake, and the mountains. The air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb of the moon was reflected from the waters, and all nature was silent. I will not dissemble the first emotions of joy on the recovery of my freedom, and perhaps the establishment of my fame. But my pride was soon humbled, and a sober melancholy was spread over my mind by the idea, that I had taken an everlasting leave of an old and agreeable companion, and that whatever might be the future fate of my history, the life of the historian must be short and precarious."

The house in which the two friends resided still bears the name of the Grotto, but the garden has been sadly invaded to give space to the Hôtel Gibbon. The berceau of acacias is gone, sacrificed to the demands of comfort-loving Englishmen.

The Faubourg du Chêne leads from the Hôtel Gibbon to the long, grassy, and planted esplanade of Montbenon. A little belvidere, which rises at the entrance of the esplanade,

commands a view of the entire basin of the lake. Montbenon is military exercise-ground, as well as the promenade of Lausanne. On one side the ground, covered with farms and villas, slopes in gentle undulations down to the lake; and on the other, by a deeper declivity, to the verdant ravine of the Flon. At the extremity of Montbenon a road leads to the Cours by the Petit Languedoc, while the Genevan road, after traversing the promenade, descends from hill to hill down to the Pont de la Maladière, and the plain of Vidy. Beyond the Maladière, near the shore, and in the place which tradition assigns to the ancient Lausonium, the patriot Davel, whose memorial is seen in the cathedral, was executed, after having failed in his enterprise for securing the liberties of his countrymen.

From the plain of Vidy we may ascend to Lausanne by keeping the right bank of the Flon, and afterwards taking either of the shady roads which wind along the sides of the hills one among the villas of the Bois de Vaud, Malley, Sebeillon, Violette, and Boston; the other along the Renen sur Roches, Prelaz, and Valency. The two routes unite at the entrance of Lausanne, and enter the town by the Pont Pichard.

The Great Causeway, or Pont Pichard, is 1800 mètres in length. The viaduct is carried by two superposed rows of arches, five being in the lower and nineteen in the upper tier. Owing to the openness of the arches, the structure has a light and agreeable appearance. The cost of the undertaking was 500,000 French francs, including the purchase of ground and indemnities. A marble tablet bearing an inscription is seen on one of the pillars in the middle of the bridge; it is a memorial of Adrien Pichard, the engineer of the causeway. The bridge leads to the Place de St. François, in front of the Post-Office, and in the midst of several hôtels, among them the Hôtel Gibbon. The building with blackened walls seen here is the Temple or Church: it was built in 1442.

The hilly streets of Bourg and St. Pierre are the prolongation of the Place St. François, inhabited formerly by the noblesse of Vaud and the merchants of Lausanne; they form still the best portion of the town. The houses have terraces and gardens richly cultivated, and command an admirable

view in the direction of the Leman. A new road, constructed in order to avoid by a détour the steep hill of the street, is carried under the terraces, and below the road the beautiful promenade of Derrière Bourg is prolonged. The Rue St. Pierre terminates at the Hôtel du Fauçon, and ramifies into two faubourgs, those of Etraz and Martheray, one on the road to Berne, the other on that to Vevay.

men,

The road to Vevay is commanded by the rich campagnes of Villamont, Monrepos, Montalegre, and Bellevue. The house of Monrepos, is no longer that where Voltaire, as the "bon homme Lusignan," drew tears from Swiss eyes; where tragedy was played "by beautiful women and handsome better than at Paris;" where Voltaire was one day so enchanted with the acting of M. and Mme. D'Hermenches, that, drawing up his chair unconsciously, and by degrees, he found himself at last fairly on the stage between Zaïre and Orosmane, so as to prevent the poignard-stroke, and stop the action of the play. The villa, then the property of the Marquis de Langalerie, has been entirely rebuilt by its present proprietor, M. Perdonnet. On the Vevay road are seen the Rosière, the residence of Louis Buonaparte, king of Holland in 1813. At Beausite, further on, Kemble died, in 1828. The shady valley of Chamblande is prolonged in this direction as far as Pully.

The Cathedral of Lausanne is its principal public building; it is large, and, architecturally, the finest Gothic edifice in Switzerland: the want of coloured windows, pictures, or altar gives it a cold appearance. It contains the remains of St. Bernard, founder of the celebrated Hospice which bears his name.

Steamers.-The Leman, 80, Helvetia, 120, and Aigle, 80horse power low-pressure iron steamers, make the passage from Geneva to Villeneuve in 4 hours, touching at Ouchy, and calling also at Vevay, Morges, Rolle, Nyon, and Cappet. Omnibuses, which call at the principal hôtels, convey passengers to and from the steamer for half a franc, or with luggage, one franc. There are in summer two departures a-day, both from Ouchy to Geneva and Ouchy to Villeneuve. In spring and summer there is but one departure in each direction, and in winter the service is suspended. Tables indicating the hours of arrival and departure of the steamers are found at all the hôtels. Omnibuses for Aigle, Bex, and

the baths of Levey await the arrival of the steamer at Ville

neuve.

Omnibuses. For Vevay at seven and eleven A.M., from No. 2 Rue de Bourg; and at three and five P.M., from the Lion d'Or, Rue de Bourg. For Morges: at ten A.M. and one and five P.M., from the Hôtel de Soleil, Place St. François. For Yverdon at six A.M. (at hours corresponding with the steam-boat on the Lake of Neuchâtel, when the boat is running on that lake), and at three P.M., from No. 1 Rue des Terreaux. For Orbe: at three P.M., from the Grand Chêne No. 23. For Moudon: at three P.M., from No. 6 Rue St. Pierre. For Payerne: at three P.M., from No. 18 Rue St. François. When the steamer does not run on Lake Leman, one omnibus leaves Lausanne for Geneva daily, from No. 22 Rue de Bourg.

Diligences.-For Paris, by Pontarber, every day at midnight. For Italy daily, at midnight. St. Maurice, in summer, a quarter past four; in winter, at three o'clock P.M. Berne at Freiburg daily, at seven P.M. (Messagerie), in summer, ten; in winter, eight A.M. Geneva daily, at midnight; a second departure in summer, at four; in winter, at two P.M. Neuchâtel and Yverdon, in summer, at a quarter to ten A.M. (coinciding with the service for St. Croix and the Val de Travers); in winter, eleven A.M.; a second departure every evening at seven.

GENEVA AND LAKE LEMAN.

GENEVA.-Hôtels: H. des Bergues, Quai des Bergues; views over the bridge, Rousseau's Isle, the Quai du Rhône, the lake, and the Alps; table d'hôte at ten, one, and five o'clock; restaurant à la carte. H. de la Couronne, at the end of the Quai du Rhône: a good house and cuisine; view of the lake and both its banks; table d'hôte at one, five, and eight P.M. H. de l'Ecu de Geneva, Place du Rhône; well kept; view of the lake; table d'hôte at five, 4 francs. H. de la Balance, Rue du Rhône 57; was formerly the most fashionable in the town, and is still a good house; table d'hôte at one, five, and eight P.M., at 3 francs; rooms, 1 to 3 francs. H. du Grand Aigle, Rhône 91, opposite the landingplace of the steam-boat; table d'hôte at five P.M.; quiet and ble. H. du Rhône, Rhône 181; rooms, from 1 to

CO

3 francs; persons may be served à la carte, or live en pension by the month. H. du Lion d'Or, Rhône 87, newly furnished; table d'hôte at noon, 2 fr. 50c.; at five P.M. 3 fr. ; chambers, 1 and 2 fr. H. du Lac, Rhône 169; view of the lake and the Alps. H. de l'Europe, Place de la Grenette; table d'hôte at half-past twelve and at five o'clock. H. des Etrangères aux Paquis, half a mile outside the town; very good; baths; horses and carriages; boats for a row on the lake.

Strangers who purpose to make any considerable stay, and wish to avoid unnecessary expense, will do well to place themselves en pension. They should on their arrival apply for a permission de séjour, at the Département de Police et Justice (Hôtel de Ville, 29), stating the house in which they propose to reside. The permits, available for three, six, or twelve months, cost from 2 to 3 francs per quarter. Changes of habitation must be registered, but for this no charge is made. The law renders the aubergistes and householders responsible for the observance of these regulations.

Travellers are not subject to any custom-house visitations, nor do their effects pay any duty. On entering the town they are required to place their passports in the hands of the police (Bureau de Police, Hôtel de Ville, No. 28). This measure is rendered necessary by the peculiar position of Geneva on the frontier of three states. The papers thus deposited may be withdrawn at any time on application, the traveller stating the place of his destination. The visé of the police of Geneva is gratuitous. Persons going to Savoy and Chamonix have to procure the visé of the Sardinian Consul, for which they are charged 4 francs. The Geneva Bureau des Passeports (Hôtel de Ville, No. 28) is open every day (not a holiday) from 9 A.M. till 4 in the afternoon; on Sundays from 9 to 10 in the morning, and every day from 9 to 10 in the evening.

Geneva, though the canton of which it is the capital is, with one exception (Zug), the smallest of the Confederation, is the largest town in Switzerland, containing, with its suburbs, 36,000 inhabitants. The town occupies the declivities of two hills, in the centre of a basin formed by the approach of the Jura to a secondary chain of the Alps, at the place where Lake Leman terminates in an elongated point,