place early in the morning, and to my great surprise found no one there except the guards and the carpenter, who informed me, that the Caimakan had given orders to the Fellahs not to work for the Christian dogs any longer. I sent for him, to know the reason of this new proceeding; but he was gone to Luxor. It is to be observed, that the spot where the head lay at this time was expected to be under water in a few days; and that by delay the risk would be incurred of having it sunk in the earth, so that it could not have been taken out till the following year, and then not without a great deal of additional trouble, exclusive of the tricks that might be played in the interval. Under these circumstances, it may be imagined I was uneasy upon the subject, and anxious for despatch. I afterwards learned, that the rogue of a Caimakan had suggested to the Cacheff to take advantage of the situation, when the head was to pass that spot, to put an end to our proceeding. I took the Janizary with me, and crossed the water to Luxor. I there found the Caimakan, who could give me no reason for his proceeding but saucy answers; and the more I attempted to bring him into good humour by smooth words and promises, the more insolent he became. My patience was great, and I was determined that day to carry

it to its utmost length: but there is a certain point, which, if exceeded, these people do not understand; and, in a country where respect is paid only to the strongest, advantage will always be taken of the weak: consequently if a man earry his policy beyond that-point, they mistake him for a coward; he is despised, and will have the more difficulties to encounter.

This was the case on the present occasion: my patience was mistaken; and this man, after having said all that he could against my nation, and those who protected me, was so much encouraged by my forbearance, that he attempted to put his hands on me, which I resisted. He then became more violent, and drew his sword, though he had a brace of pistols in his belt. There was no time to be lost; and as I had received a good lesson at Cairo from another Albanian like himself, I gave him no leisure to execute his purpose. I instantly seized and disarmed him, placed my hands on his stomach, and made him sensible of my superiority, at least in point of strength, by keeping him firm in a corner of the room. The pistols and sword, which I had thrown on the ground, were taken up by my Janizary; and after giving the fellow a good shaking, I took possession of them, and told him, that I should send them to Cairo, to

show the Bashaw in what manner his orders were respected. He followed me towards the boat, and was no sooner out of the crowd that had assembled, than he began to be quite humble, and talk of matters as if nothing had happened. He then told me, that the order he had given to the Fellahs not to work he had received from the Cacheff himself, and it could not be expected, that, being only a Caimakan, he could disobey his superior. I did not stop one instant, but ordered the boat to take me to Erments immediately.

The reader, perhaps, may think my narrative too minute; but I beg to observe, that it is in this way only the true character of these people can be known. I remarked, that in almost every thing he said to me nothing escaped him against my religion, which is generally the first thing with a Mahometan; but I found afterwards, that the friend in Lower Egypt, with whom he had trafficked in antiques, from whom he received money and presents, and who influenced him on this occasion, was a Christian; and if he could have found the means to interrupt my proceedings respecting the bust, he would greatly have obliged this friend.

I hastened to Erments, and arrived there be

fore sunset. As it was the time of Ramadan, the . Cacheff had many of his principal officers, and several Hadgees and Santons, at dinner with him; it being the custom of these Turkish travellers, particularly at this season, to live at great men's tables. There were about thirty in that place. The dinner was prepared in a field before the house, as no room within it would contain so many persons. An old carpet, about twenty feet long and three wide, was spread on the ground; and where we should put plates, cakes were placed of fine white bread, made expressly for the occasion. On my arrival they were just going to begin, the hour of dining being always a little after sunset during the festival of Ramadan, as they are then not allowed to eat till the sun has wholly disappeared; so that I could introduce no business at that time. There is certainly something in the ceremonial manners of the Turks, that is often peculiarly provoking. At the very moment that they order your throat to be cut, they will not fail to salute you, apparently, with the utmost cordiality. The Cacheff received me very politely, and invited me to dine with him. I dared not refuse, as it would have been the greatest affront I could have offered him, Accordingly, we sat all round the carpet, on the

ground. The Turkish cookery does not always suit an European palate; but there are a few dishes, that are equally agreeable with our own; particularly mutton roasted on a wooden pole, at a wood fire. They have a particular way of cooking it, putting it on the fire immediately after it is killed, and before it has lost its natural warmth; and in this way it has a particular flavour, quite agreeable to the taste. The soldiers and Hadgees tucked up their large sleeves, and with naked arms dipped the fingers of their right hands into the various dishes. They never employ the left hand in eating, nor do they eat much out of one dish, but taste of all that are within their reach. They always finish their dinner with pilau, and seldom drink while eating. They wash immediately after, and pipes and coffee being served all round, they begin to converse on their usual topics, horses, arms, saddles, or dress.

At a proper time I expressed to the Cacheff the necessity of my having an order for the Fellahs, to proceed with my operations the next morning. He answered with indifference, that they must work in the fields for the Bashaw, and that he could not spare one; but that, if I would wait till the next season, I might have as many as I liked. I replied to this, that as I