324 Route 115. Chamouny-Source of the Arveron. distinct, nor offers a scene half so grand, as the view of the entire range from the Col de Balme to the Col de Vosa, for the cross on one, and the pavilion on the other, may be seen from the Breven. The return to Chamouny may be varied by passing on the western side of the Breven, above the valley of Diozas, near to a little lake, then descending by the châlets of Calaveiran, towards the village of Coupeau, a path leads down to les Ouches, in the valley of Chamouny, and thence up the valley to the priory. Source of the Arveron.-This affluent of the Arve issues from below the vault of ice with which the Glacier du Bois, and the Mer de Glace terminates. It is a delightful walk of an hour, along the plain of the valley, crossing beautiful meadows, and a little forest. The road to the Col de Balme, and up the valley, is left at les Près, where that to the source of the Arveron, turns off to the right, and passes the hamlet of Bois. The vault of ice varies greatly in different seasons, and the author, at different times, has remarked a change of from 30 to 100 feet of height in the arch. It may be entered, but this is dangerous, and some have suffered for their temerity. The guides generally prohibit entrance, but many walk thus far without their aid, and their folly has no restraint. The danger is, that blocks of ice may detach themselves from the vault. In 1797 three persons were crushed. One, a son of M. Maritz of Geneva, perished; his father ând his cousin escaped with broken legs. The scenery around the source is very grand, the deep blackness of the depth of vault, the bright and beautiful azure where the light is transmitted through the ice. The enormous rocks rought down by the glacier from the mountains above, here tumble over, and are deposited in the bed of the Arve. Here, too, the dark forest, and the broken trunks of pines, add to the wild character of the scene. The advance and recession of the glaciers seem to depend upon the seasons. If it be hot, the ground melts the superincumbent ice, and the glacier advances, and a wet season by depositing a greater quantity of snow, increases its weight and force. Sometimes the difference is many hundreds of feet. It is not more than thirty years since it reached the forest of pines, now passed through in approaching to it. A path, steep and difficult, brings the visitor from the Montanvert, down through the forest to the source of the Arveron, of which many who are active and strong avail themselves, and thus return to Chamouny. The Chapeau is easier of access than the Montanvert. It is one of the points of view on the Mer de Glace, the side furthest from Chamouny : from it the Aiguilles of Charmoz, and le Blatière are seen immediately under Mont Blanc, with the vale of Chamouny, the Breven, and other vast and interesting objects; but its chief interest lies in its proximity to the Mer de Glace, where the glacier begins to break into pyramids and obelisques of ice; and here avalanches are frequently seen, where these toppling masses fall over with frightful effect. Captain Sherwill thus describes the Chapeau : -" I should advise travellers who have not seen the source of the Arveron to visit this and the Chapeau on the same day, which may be done either in going to or returning from the latter: this plan is far more preferable, and much less fatiguing, than to descend to the source by the path of La Filia, usually recommended by guides on quitting the Montanvert, and which is very inconvenient to ladies, the mountain being extremely rugged, and the descent so rapid that mules never go that way. "A visit to the Chapeau may be accomplished either on foot or with the mules: if you go direct to it, you must continue along the valley as far as the village of Les Tines; and, after having passed this picturesque spot, ascend a narrow road on the right hand that leads to the scattered hamlet of Lavanchè, continue through this latter by a good mule path beside the glacier, until you arrive at the foot of the ascent to the Chapeau. Here it is necessary to leave your mules in care of a boy, while the guide conducts you to a cavern, above which is the grass mound properly called the Chapeau : strangers in general are satisfied with a visit to the cave, from whence the view is perfectly unique, and very astonishing. "On your return from the Chapeau, you descend by the same path as far as Les Tines, from whence there is a road on the left that leads to the hamlet of Les Bois, situated at the source of the Arveron. This excursion may be accomplished in about five hours, and will prove one of the most agreeable and least fatiguing of those that surround Chamouny. Glace, to pass their summer of three He "Pedestrians who feel themselves capable of undertaking difficult passes may, on quitting the Chapeau, continue to ascend by the side of the Mer de Glace, and arrive opposite to the hut on the Montanvert; but to accomplish this there is a very dangerous rock to pass, known by the guides by the name of Le Mauvais Pas.' I took with me two guides, Joseph Coutet and the Giant, as he is called; and having arrived opposite the Montanvert, we traversed the Mer de Glace. This is dangerous; but the traveller will have a far better idea of the grandeur of this frozen ocean than by merely visiting a few of its waves from the usual point near La Pierre des Anglais,' so termed at the ascent of Dr. Po-pelled by curiosity alone, are not juscocke and Mr. Wyndham in 1741. "In the month of July, when the weather permits, a large quantity of heifers are driven from Chamouny, each attended by its owner, to the hut on Montanvert, for the purpose of being conducted across the Mer de The ascent of Mont Blanc is attempted by few; of these, the records are to be found at Chamouny. When Saussure ascended to make experiments at that height, the motive was a worthy one; but those who are im tified in risking the lives of the guides. The pay tempts these poor fellows to encounter the danger, but their safety, devoted as they are to their employers, is risked for a poor consideration. It is no excuse that the employer thinks his own life worthless: here he ought to think of the safety of others; yet scarcely a season passes without the attempt. One Englishman went to the summit, only to say that he had been there. For long before the arrival the guides were certain that all view would be shut out by clouds; yet he went, and now boasts that he did it in half an hour less than it has been done by any other scrambler. One of those who lately succeeded in attaining the summit was the Comte de Tilly, the first Frenchman who had been there; his pamphlet, giving an account of it, published at Geneva in 1835, is one of the most ridiculously national accounts ever read. In 1838, however, a French lady reached the summit. A Mademoiselle Dangeville, who reached the top in 1840, chose to keep her guides distinct from those of another party that ascended on the same day, disdaining to be indebted to the aid which the gallantry of the other When on party might have offered. the summit, she ordered her guides to lift her as high as they could, that she might boast of having been higher than any other person in Europe. This was motive enough for all the useless labour and fatigue, to a French woman! When Messrs. Fellows and Hawes went up in 1827 they took a course to the left of the Roches Rouges, and this has greatly lessened the danger of the ascent by avoiding the most dangerous part of it. All who have succeeded have advised no one to attempt it; they admit, however, when again in safety, that the fatigue and danger was infinitely exceeded by the gratification. The excitement of sleeping out in the mountain is part of the interest of the adventure. This may, however, be enjoyed by going to the Grands Mulets, an excursion in which there is little danger, and sleeping there; choosing a moonlight night and fine weather to enjoy the extensive view, the bright sky, and the thunders of falling avalanches. Or, another ex 116. Tête Noire. cursion may be made to enjoy a night out, by crossing into Piedmont, over the Col de Géant. This adventure requires three or four guides. It was performed in the year 1822 by two English ladies, Mrs. and Miss Campbell, who, with eight guides, started at mid-day, August 18th, slept out one night on the mountain, and descended the next day to Cormayeur. Saussure remained out many successive nights and days engaged in experiments on the Col de Géant; and during the prohibition of English goods by Buonaparte, this was a common path for smugglers, who crossed it from Switzerland to Italy laden with British muslins. ROUTE 116. CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY, BY THE TÊTE NOIRE, TRIENT, AND THE COL DE FORCLAZ. There are two roads which lead from Chamouny to Martigny; one by the Tête Noire, the other by the Col de Balme. Travellers are often perplexed which to choose of these two passes. The general scenery of the Tête Noire is superior; but the Col de Balme has one view which far surpasses any in the Tête Noire.. Al "Those who cannot spare 2 additional hours for the journey should proceed from Chamouny to the top of the Col de Balme and enjoy the view (R. 117.), then strike off into the Val Orsine across the pastures and through the forests, dropping down upon the village of Val Orsine. though no path is marked for the first part of the way, this detour may be made on horseback, and is well worth the trouble, combining as it does the beauties of the two passes of the Tête Noire and Col de Balme. This course was taken by the writer in 1837, and when it becomes known he has little doubt that a path will be made from the châlet on the Col de Balme."-ED. Route 116. Chamouny to Martigny- Val Orsine. 327 The route to the Val Orsine and Tête Noire lies up the vale of Chamouny, by Les Près, where the path to the Arverun divides; thence the main route of the valley continues to the chapel and hamlet of Tines here the valley narrows, and the road ascends steeply on the banks of the Arve, opposite to the bases of the Aiguilles Rouges, to some pasturages, and the hamlet of Les Isles, beyond, the Arve is crossed, and the village of Argentière is left on the right hand; this is the third and highest parish in the valley, and is two leagues from the priory; here the magnificent glacier of Argentière is seen streaming down from between the Aiguilles d'Argentière and du Tour. Soon after passing Argentière the road turns to the north, leaving the path to the hamlet of le Tour, and the Col de Balme on the right. The path rises rapidly to the miserable hamlet of Trelefan, passing what is called the Montets by a sterile gorge, and at a short league from Argentière the summit of this pass is attained; the streams on either side take different courses, that through Chamouny to the Arve, and that towards Martigny to the Rhone. A little beyond the crest, a savage and sterile valley opens to the left, through which the Eau Noire, the torrent of the Val Orsine, descends; and on looking up this valley, the snows of the lofty Buet lying behind the Aiguilles Rouges, are seen. After passing the hamlet of Couteraie, the road descends rapidly to Val Orsine, the chief village of the valley. Its church having been more than once swept away, a strong rampart of masonry and earth has been raised to defend it from similar catastrophes. Below Val Orsine, the valley narrows to a gorge, abounding in season, with wild fruits: through it, the torrent forces its way into the more open valley below, acquiring in its course fresh force, from the contributions of numerous waterfalls and streams which descend from the glaciers above. In this gorge, a sort of barrier marks the frontier of Savoy it is utterly useless as a defence: soon after the torrent is crossed, near to where a mill and some pleasant meadows contrast with the generally savage character of the deep valley. Considerable improvements within a few years have taken place in this route, on the side of Switzerland. Formerly a fearful path led from the depths of the valley by a zigzag course, over loose and dangerous slopes to gain the Tête Noire, up what was well known by the characteristic name of the Malpas; now instead of descending into the valley, to rise again, the road is carried over the mountain side, and at one place a gallery is pierced through a rock, in a situation of singular grandeur, where it overhangs precipitously the dark valley beneath. This improvement, which removes all danger from the pass, has not been extended to the side of Savoy: the government of Sardinia seconds no efforts of improvement thus spiritedly begun by its neighbours. On the contrary, the steep and rocky path left like steps, is only practicable for mules and for these in many places difficult; and it is to be hoped that the time is not distant when a good char road will lead into the valley of Chamouny from Martigny. The latest improvement is an extension of the road, on the part of the Vallais as far as to the frontier of Savoy, by cuttings, and the construction of terraces, on the side of the valley of the Eau Noire, by which the violent undulations of the old road are avoided. In a wild part of the ravine the new road passes under and quite out of sight of an overhanging rock, which bears the name of the Roche de Balme: an inscription contains some compli ments to Lady Guildford, which, having been nearly obliterated, has been restored, with mistakes, "too numerous to mention," but very amus 328 Route 116. Tête Noire. -117. Col de Balme. ing. The Guildford stone lies off the new road, to the right. A little beyond the gallery, there is a house called H. de la Couronne, the usual halting place between Chamouni and Martigny, where shelter in foul weather may be had, and a glass of schnaps to warm the wet and cold traveller. Near this spot the road turns abruptly into the dark forest of Trient, passing round the brow of a mountain covered with dark forests this brow is called the Tête Noire, beyond which the road through the forest continues for half an hour. In the depths below the forest, the torrent of the Trient is heard forcing its way into the Eau Noire, which it joins before their streams fall into the Rhone. On leaving the forest, the valley of Trient opens, and in about six hours after his departure from Chamouny the traveller reaches the little auberge in the hamlet, where he may rest and refresh. Here a new room has been built as a salle à manger, but the dormitory is wretched it must, however, be worse before weariness refuses even such accommodation. The little valley of Trient is deeply seated amidst pine forests, the débris of the surrounding mountains, and the fearful precipices from which these have been detached. In the plain of the valley some barley is grown, and the meadows are luxuriant. A little way beyond the hamlet, the torrent which descends from the glacier of the Trient is crossed, and a steep path leads up through the forest, which clothes the mountain side of the Forclaz: little more than half an hour is required for this ascent. On the way, another port or barrier is passed it is left in a wall which closes the passage between the mountain and the precipice. Near it are the ruins of a redoubt: this is another specimen of playing at soldiers among the Vallaisans. On the right a path is passed, which, in crossing the valley from the Forclaz to the Col de Balme, avoids the hamlet of Trient. The traveller who is en route from the Forclaz to the Great St. Bernard, and does not wish to pass by St. Branchier may, if a pedestrian, go from the Forclaz direct to Orsières by the pretty lac de Champè. From the Col de Forclaz the descent is by fine pasturages, and two hours are required to reach Martigny : the view of the valley of the Rhone seen in the descent from Martigny to the St. Gothard is one of the most celebrated in the Alps. The path is much sheltered by pines and beeches, and lower in the valley by the pear and apple trees: in the neighbourhood of these are numerous cottages, and many are passed before the path falls into the route that leads from Martigny to the Great St. Bernard, and the valley of the Drance. (Route 106.) ROUTE 117. MARTIGNY TO CHAMOUNY BY THE COL DE BALME. This road is recommended to those travellers who have not been to Chamouny, but who enter it for the first time from the Vallais, for the sake of the first impression which the view of Mont Blanc makes upon them when seen from the Col de Balme; but see p. 326. On leaving Martigny, the route over the Forclaz (Route 116.) is repassed; but, in descending to the valley of Trient, a path to the left leads towards the glacier of Trient and the dark forest, up through which lies the ascent to the Col de Balme. Deep in the valley on the right, the hamlet of Trient lies in repose amidst its beautiful meadows; and before and above the traveller, on the opposite side of the valley, are the precipices of the Aiguille, from which poor Escher de Berg fell in 1791, when, in defiance of the advice of his |