536 TURKISH DINNER. are holes in their noses where once they wore rings, enormous earrings, three and a half to four inches in diameter, in their ears, and a notion in their heads that it is a sin against Mohammed to put their hands or faces into water, and at the same time such greasy, dirty hands that scraping them would be a relief to their weight. These are the cooks; and all the truth in relation to them is not yet told. The cooking is done over the blacksmith's fire. In some iron pans, by means of wooden spoons, the cooks' fingers and hands, and an occasional tasting and eating and returning to the main kettle what they could not conveniently swallow, the work was completed. After these operations, the thing cooked was put by the cooks into a huge wooden bowl of the capacity of a half-bushel, which was carried aft; and then the sheik and five or six of his principal friends surrounded the bowl, each having a wooden spoon, with which he shovelled up a quantity, committing it to his throat, down which it slid with considerable velocity, due to the numerous greasings each particle had received during the process of cooking. After them a few of the attendants approached; and the rest was soon devoured. After one or two deaths on board, some showers of rain, during which some of the company were piled up three deep under sails, and some pleasant hours and some very unpleasant, we saw in the east a few fleecy clouds nestling down low upon one distant spot on the sea. This was Malta, the ancient MELITA. We were still on Biblical ground. On a former occasion we had left some very dear friends at this beautiful island. A MISTAKE CORRECTED. 537 Intending to remain some time on the island, bidding our friends farewell, I entered the quarantine. Owing to the kindness of my intimate friend, C. L. REHN, Esq., of Philadelphia, as well as to his admirable business knowledge and promptness, I was enabled to remain still longer in the Mediterranean, and especially at Malta. A little circumstance occurred on entering the harbor which is worthy of notice. A number of our friends were on deck. Malta appeared singularly beautiful in the bright sunshine, which enlivened its creamcolored stone buildings with their little projecting second-story porticos and its stupendous and wonderful fortifications. While admiring the scene, we saw occasional spray rising suddenly from the surface of the water with the most perfect likeness to the spouting of the whale; and after repeated assurances that we had seen whales we parted, our friends leaving port for Marseilles. The following afternoon I saw that the balls fired from the batteries skipped upon the surface of the sea; and occasionally a shell fired from the mortar exploded in the air, leaving a little white cloud. Last evening the deception was complete, and several gentlemen, not of our company, left the harbor satisfied that they had seen whales here, though they never thought before that these fish were to be found in the Mediterranean. The whole is now explained. The apparent "spouting" was due to the balls falling at great distances in the water; and yet my friends sailed yesterday under the impression that they had seen "the whale." 538 KINDNESS AT VALETTA. The kindness which I received in this sunny isle I can never forget; and the information gained from various sources here was invaluable. The library at Valetta is, in several respects, one of the finest in Europe. I lectured at the University, visited the schools, which were in a flourishing state, and made many examinations throughout the island. Valetta, the chief town, in its climate and society, in its interesting associa tions, its cleanliness and beauty, is one of the most inviting spots upon this gem-island of the Mediterranean. Here we stayed a time to pursue some studies, and fortunately to form some friendships among some of the citizens and their intelligent, accomplished, and warmhearted circles, the recollection of which will ever make my visit to Malta the sunniest spot in the memories of a whole life. And this is the Melita of the Acts,1 where once "the barbarous people showed the apostle no little kindness2 after his shipwreck." Valetta-the town of the Knights of St. John-the town of carved palaces and beautiful residences-is inhabited principally by the British officers and their families and friends. Many visitors from Europe spend much time here, and some visit it for a winter retreat. That season is a time of considerable gayety and life. Lectures and concerts, parties and picnics and boating-excursions, make time 1 The results of various examinations in reference to this place were published in the Christian Observer, of Philadelphia, Rev. Dr. Converse, editor, to whom the author is indebted for many kind suggestions and encouragements during the prosecution of the present work. 2 Acts xviii. 2. LAST HOURS AT MALTA. 539 pass very pleasantly, though the island appears so lonely and inaccessible to Europeans. When I came here the year before, I was a total stranger, without a letter of introduction or an acquaintance. I now leave it as I would if leaving a large portion of the dearest friends on earth behind me, and many whom I love and respect, socially, intellectually, and as Christians, and whose kind regards I believe I carry with me. Leaving Malta, we bade adieu to the last spot of scriptural interest which we had visited, and soon were on the Continent, and thence we left for England, with exceeding gratitude for health and success during many exposures, for a better understanding of the Scriptures, and for more liberal views, which should enable us to make allowance for the frailties and variances of habit and opinion to which all of the race, however scattered, are subject. |