great missionary turned his face westward, and the whole western world has been ready to do him honor in word and deed. His visits to Europe, whether to Greece or Rome, made the great era of European civilization, and have done more than any one event to give America her present character. Not in the discoveries of navigators nor the victories of warriors, but in the life and labors of Paul, we may read the best commentary upon the maxim at once of poetry and history,

"Westward the star of empire takes its flight."

Those of us, who are sometimes weary of Paul's logical manner and practical earnestness, and disposed to complain of the formal character of the prevalent theology, and the bustling nature of ordinary religion, should check our repining, and, grateful for what the Apostle has done for us, remember that the Apostle himself united life with logic, spirituality with active zeal. Although we may pray for more of the serene and profound spirit of John in our churches, we shall never have our prayer granted by disparaging that apostle, whose doctrines exhibit the essentials of faith and life, and whose writings in their most significant passages leave us almost to doubt, whether they came from Paul, the zealous Missionary, or John, the calm Divine.

S. o.

LYCIA.

IN a former number we gave some account of a journey through Asia Minor by Mr. C. Fellows, and referred then to a subsequent tour, for purposes of a more thorough investigation, performed a year or two afterwards. The volume, containing the record of the second tour in 1840, is now before us, and we propose to follow on his route, as before, this most instructive and agreeable traveller. We do not wonder that, on his return to London, he felt as if he had but most imperfectly surveyed the interesting country he had visited, and was in haste to traverse it again. In every province he visited, his time allowed him to give only days or hours to investigations

that demanded, and would have richly repaid, weeks or months. Lycia, especially, it appeared to him, he had treated with particular neglect, and he determined to pay it a second visit.

"On my second visit," he says in his preface, "I determined to turn my steps at once to Lycia; and I have, as will be seen from the line of my route on the map, traversed it in several directions. The new discoveries, which I have made on this excursion, have richly rewarded me; and I am led to believe that the materials for the historian, the philologist, and lover of art, which I have rescued from the ruins I visited, will be found of no inconsiderable value. The geographer will see that I have mapped the interior of the country, which hitherto has been unknown, and left blank in the maps." "In this small province I have discovered the remains of eleven cities not denoted in any map, and of which I believe it was not known that any traces existed. These eleven, with Xanthus and those described in my former journal, and the eleven other cities along the coast visited by former travellers, make together twenty-four of the thirty-six cities mentioned by Pliny, as having left remains still seen in his age. I also observed and have noticed in my Journal many other piles of ruins, not included in the above numbers.'

But, much as Mr. Fellows has found in Lycia to reward a second journey, he has not even yet explored the whole province. His route has left untouched large districts of it. And for Pisidia, Pamphylia, and Phrygia he obtained on the former journey but the most partial and casual glimpses of the wonders they contain. We hope therefore that his second tour is not to be his last; but that where he has begun so good a work, with so much reputation to himself and advantage to science, he may be induced to carry it on to a full completion, and give to the world a thorough survey of the antiquities of Asia Minor. How cursory and incomplete even the present examination of Lycia has been, will be felt, when it is recollected that the author passed less than two months in making his researches in a district, which, as mentioned above, contained no fewer than thirty-six cities, of one third of which no traces have as yet been discovered. A portion of these may have wholly perished; others may only await in their fastnesses among the hills the approach of the traveller.

On his first journey it will be recollected that Mr. Fellows, on his arrival at Smyrna, went first to Constantinople, and then

of

passing into Bythinia in an eastern direction, crossed the peninsula, through Pamphylia, Pisidia, and a part of Phrygia, to Lycia on the Mediterranean, whence he returned along the borders of the sea to Smyrna. On the present occasion he left Smyrna on a direct route for Lycia, passing, of course, in the early part his journey, over much of the ground he had seen on his former return, with, however, occasional deviations. Antiquities being the main object and constituting the chief interest of these travels, we shall at first confine ourselves to extracts relating the principal discoveries in this wide and enchanting field.

We pass by Caria, through which our traveller's route lay on leaving Smyrna, and take him up where he discovers the ancient Calynda, just within the confines of Lycia. The Turkish name of the small village in its neighborhood is Bennajah

cooe.

"At this place we found ample occupation, until it was too late to ramble among the overhanging rocks. We had seen around us, for two miles, tombs excavated in the cliffs, and one which we passed near the wood was highly ornamented as a temple, cut out of the rock, similar to the many I had seen in Lycia, and described at Telmessus. This specimen had tryglyphs, and in its pediment were two shields. I regret that we did not make careful drawings of it; but our guide assured us that thousands of better ones were around the village a mile or two in advance. Thousands is in the East used as an indefinite number; but in this instance it was probably no exaggeration, for tombs appeared on every cliff as we travelled eastward up this beautiful valley." "Our guide in these mountain excursions is generally any peasant whom we meet by chance in the woods. The man now attending us has his gun, and seems to live by it; or rather it appears his only occupation; he professes to know every hole in the mountains, having long pursued his sportsman's life in the neighborhood, and offers to conduct us as far as Macry; his pay is at present but sixpence a day. I have observed a striking feature in the character of these men; on being hired, they always say, by way of showing their independence, I have no mother; I can go any where with you; no one depends upon me.' These anecdotes serve to mark the devotional respect to parents, which I noticed so often on my former visit. Our present guide, who wears sandals exactly like those seen in the antique figures, led us high into the crags which we had seen above us, where we found the greatest collected number of cave-tombs. Here between two ridges of rocks was the commanding site of an ancient city."

"I at once determined this to be a city within the confines of Lycia, and as such could be none else but the ancient Calynda, which, according to Herodotus, was beyond the boundaries of Caria, the early inhabitants of which district are represented as pursuing and expelling the foreign gods from their country, and stopping not, until they came to the mountains of Calynda.' "This range must have been the one down whose beautiful valleys we had been for some time travelling. Calynda, if this was the site of the city, was high up in the mountains, but not far from the sea, where it probably had its port, as we know that it supplied ships to the fleet of Xerxes. From the situation and remains of the city, I conclude that it cannot have been very large; but, from its remaining tombs, it may have existed for many generations, and probably at an early period."

The author makes here an observation in natural history, which will be new to readers in this part of the world.

"Some weeks ago at Naslee, I mentioned having seen a small green frog, sitting on a sunny bank of sand, and apparently deserting the water. I here saw another of the same kind, some feet above the ground, sitting against the stem of a dead shrub, as thick as my little finger. I called to my companions to come and see a frog in a tree, as a fish out of water. On being noticed, the little fellow, to our surprise, leaped upon a thinner and higher branch, and again upon the point of a twig not thicker than a crow-quill, and sat there swinging, with all his legs together, like the goats on the pointed rocks above us, or as the bears sit upon their pole in the zoological gardens in London. On inquiry, I find that this description of frog always frequents the trees; it is seldom in the water, and enjoys basking in the hottest places."

Passing through the ancient Telmessus, he arrived, on the 7th of April, at the Turkish Hoozumlee.

"Our attraction to this place was the report of ruins that existed in its neighborhood. We therefore started at eight o'clock in the morning to ascend the mountain to the south. Scarcely beyond the south-east end of the village, and in less than ten minutes, we found among the bushes a tomb of the most usual kind, cut in the rocks, resembling our Elizabethan domestic architecture. The tomb has been much shaken to pieces, apparently by an earthquake; but the detail of its execution we found to be of the highest interest. I do not hesitate in placing this fragment in the finest age of Greek work;

it shows by the simplest effects the full expression of the history and ideas of the sculptured figures. Had they been all perfect, its value in a museum, either for the philologist, antiquarian, or artist, would be inestimable."

"Great additional interest is given to these groups, by the circumstance of several of the figures having over them their names, after the manner of the Etruscan; these inscriptions are in the Lycian language, and some bilingual with the Greek. This, I trust, will materially assist in throwing light upon our ignorance as to the Lycian language, and these sculptures also may be important illustrations."

Continuing for about a mile a steep ascent, we saw around us immense masses of rock, rolled from their original position, and some containing excavated tombs, now thrown on their sides or leaning at angles, which must have caused the disentombment of their dead." "Ascending for half an hour a steep scarcely accessible on horses, we arrived at an elevation of about three thousand five hundred feet above the sea which lay before us. The view was overwhelmingly beautiful. To the south-west lay the bay of Macry, with its islands and the coast of the south of Caria, while beyond lay the long and mountainous island of Rhodes. Cragus, with its snowy tops, broke the view towards the south, and the coast and sea off Patara measured its elevation by carrying the eye down to the valley of the Xanthus, whose glittering waters were visible for probably seventy miles, until lost in the range of high mountains, upon a part of which we were standing; in this chain it has its rise in the north. The crags of limestone around us were almost concealed by a forest of fir-trees and green underwood. Before us was the city surrounded by beautiful Cyclopean walls.

To

"The scattered stones of a fallen temple next interrupted our path on the way to the stadium; neither of its ends remained, and I feel sure that they have never been built up with seats, as seen in some of probably a later date. the right of this stadium was the agora; eight squared pillars or piers stand on either side. For nearly a quarter of a mile the ground was covered like a mason's yard with stones well squared, parts of columns, cornices, tryglyphs, and pedestals; and here and there stood still erect the jambs of the doors of buildings, whose foundations alone are to be traced. Near the stadium some large walls with windows are still standing, and enclose some places which have probably been for public amusements. The city is in many parts undermined by chambers cut in rocks, and arched over with fine masonry; these, no