doubt, were the basements or vaults of the large buildings of the town, or may have served for its stores of provisions; at present they are the wonder and terror of the peasants, who relate, that in one great vault, into which they had entered, there were seven doors all leading in different directions. This report has given the name of Yeddy Cappolee, meaning 'seven doors,' to the ruins, as well as to the mountain on which they stand. We descended towards the west, and came to the upper seats of a beautiful little theatre, in high preservation, a few large fir-trees interrupting the effect of the semicircle of seats. The proscenium was a heap of ruins, only one or two of its door-ways being left standing. The form of the theatre was like those in the east of Caria; in front were the Cyclopean walls of the city blended with the more regular Greek, and evidently constructed at the same period. From this spot for a quarter of a mile were tombs, neither cut in the rocks, nor sarcophagi, nor of the usual architecture of Lycia, but of a heavy, peculiar, and massive style of building, not generally associated with our ideas of the Greek; there was no trace of bas-reliefs or ornaments, and not a letter of the Lycian character among the numerous inscriptions, which were Greek, and much injured by time."

On returning to the village after his visit to these ruins, the principal citizens, who had assembled to see him, assured him that he was the only Frank who had ever visited them. Two days after, continuing his route toward the valley of the Xanthus, he found ruins which he was able to identify as the remains of the ancient Massicytus. These detained him not long, and he pressed on to Tlos, a place visited and described on his former tour. Here he found tombs beautifully sculptured. On the walls of one was discovered a bas-relief representing the fable of Bellerophon, of whose wonderful feats Lycia was the scene; and the author well says, "To find this in a city in the valley of the Xanthus, cut in the rock, at once gives reality and place to the poetic description and services of this classic hero." From Tlos he moved on south to Minara, which he conjectures to be the ancient Pinara. The general ruins of the city, except the very perfect remains of a theatre, are not remarkable, but it is surrounded by "innumerable tombs in the rocky cliffs. Upon the inner and outer walls of these were found interesting bas-reliefs; one especially so, being a representation of the ancient city, "cut in relief on four different panels."

milar in

"I know no instances," says the author, "of a sight into the appearance of the ancient cities. These views exhibit the forms of the tops of the walls, which are embattled, the gateways, and even the sentinels before them. The upper portions of the walls are rarely found remaining at the present day, and I have too often perhaps attributed those I have seen to the Venetian age. The form of the battlements is very singular; none now are left upon the ruined walls of this city, but the tombs and towers might be still selected, probably from the same point of view, as represented in these bas-reliefs."

Mr. Fellows is justly surprised at the number and costliness of the tombs in the neighborhood of the ruins of the Greek cities, and especially at some found here at Pinara. The most wealthy of our citizens, in modern times, would not think of so expensive erections. Our wealth, it may be said, is lavished upon different objects; but if it took the same direction, it could by no means accomplish so much.*

"I have just measured one," says Mr. Fellows; "the form is of the most frequent style, and has its inner front; but the whole appeared so much in relief from the rock, that I climbed up, and found that I could walk by the side, which was ornamented and as highly finished as the front; this passage continued again along the back, making a perfectly independent building, or sculptured mausoleum, eighteen feet six inches deep; the cutting from the face of the rock was twenty-six feet deep, directly into its hard mass."

Mr. Fellows finds among the ruins of Pinara many buildings of which he cannot discover the design.

"How little is known," he says, "of even the names of the ancient Greek buildings! I find the usual vocabulary sadly deficient in supplying appellations for many edifices crowded together in this very ancient city; several have long parallel walls built of massive and good masonry, with numerous doorways, and simple but bold cornices. Others are more square in form, with a fine sweeping circular recess at one end; they have often four door-ways, and columns lying about within the

* This matter is partly explained by an observation made in the Appendix, founded on information obtained from inscriptions on the tombs at Tlos, namely, that most of the tombs of that city were constructed for the use of the dead of several families. This, Mr. Fellows thinks, will account for their more than usual magnificence.

building Near, and within, one of the entrances to the upper part of e city are the remains of a very small theatre, or probably an Odeum. I have not before seen one so small; it would serve as a lecture-room of the present day, where all the powers of the orator might have full effect. Beneath the surface of the highest part of the city are large square chambers, cut in the rock and arched over with masonry; the whole of the inside is beautifully plastered with a white stucco, having a polished surface like marble. These have, no doubt, been stores for corn and other provisions for the city."

At Pinara he writes:

"The people had never before seen a Frank; an old man told me that none had ever been up to his village; their manners were naturally the more simple, and of this I must give an instance. Three or four men, one of them very old, were the most attentive and curious in watching and assisting us to move stones, and leading the way through bushes; of course we returned the civility by signs of obligation. We soon became intimate, and they ventured to make remarks, noticing the spectacles worn by one of my companions, and placing them before their own eyes; these and a magnifying-glass astonished them exceedingly. Our pencils and books were equally novel to them. Soon afterwards a pretty girl joined our group, with a red skull-cap much faded by the sun, and from which were suspended chains of glittering coins, confining her hair, that hung in many long plaits down her back, in the manner of the ancient Egyptians; rows of colored beads hung around her brown open breast. This child was pushed forward to present to me an egg, which I exchanged for half a piastre, and all fear of the Frank at once ceased. Other eggs were brought me, my plant-box and hands were soon filled, and I was reminded of my former servant's instruction, that presents are very dear things in this country, the price of eggs being twenty or thirty for a piastre."

Another city high up among the mountains was discovered soon after leaving Pinara, and its name, from inscriptions on the tombs, found to have been Sydima. It was small, but of pure Greek architecture, and abounding in "splendidly built tombs." A few hours' travel from the place gave to our trav eller a view of the Delta of the Xanthus. He soon found himself in the famous city of that name, to revisit which, and explore more thoroughly its remains, was the principal object of his present journey. His time was spent here in copying inVOL. XXXIII. 3D s. VOL. XV. NO. I.

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scriptions, in both the ancient Lycian and Greek, and in making drawings of the ruins and the more interesting basreliefs. From these, many beautiful and valuable engravings are given in the splendid volume before us, without the aid of which it is not easy to convey to the reader an adequate idea of these remarkable relics of a remote and polished age. But notwithstanding their number and excellence, they are too few and too little various in their subjects to satisfy the reasonable wants of the student of antiquity, or lover of art. It would have been a great additional advantage, if some had been given representing the general aspect of a city like Xanthus in its present state, with views of its more remarkable structures, drawings showing the details of architectural embellishment, and sketches of the surrounding scenery. Of those very remarkable places, Sagalassus and Selge, visited by Mr. Fellows on his former journey, a few outline engravings of each, from different points of view, would have conveyed a clearer idea than any number of pages of elaborate description. In truth, in journals of this kind, the reader would hardly ask for more of letter-press than should be necessary to state the few facts, that could not be made known by the draughtsman and the engraver. In the case of some of these ruins, general views of them, indeed, must be impracticable, from the thick growth of shrub and tree by which they are overrun. This was a difficulty here at Xanthus.

"To lay down a plan of the town is impossible," he says, "the whole being concealed by trees; but walls of the finest kind of Cyclopean, blended with Greek, as well as the beautifully squared stones of a lighter kind, are seen in every direction; several gateways also, with their paved roads, still exist. I observed on my first visit that the temples have been numerous, and, from their position along the brow of the cliff, must have combined with nature to form one of the most beautiful of cities. The extent I now find is much greater than I had imagined, and its tombs extend over miles of country I had not before seen."

A few miles brought our traveller to Patara on the sea-coast, which he had seen also on his former journey.

"I again sought the points of greatest interest, its very perfect theatre, the arched entrance to the city, and clusters of palm-trees; and owing to the drier state of the swamp, I was enabled to visit a beautiful small temple about the centre of the

ruined city; its door-way within a portico in antis is in high preservation, as well as its walls; the door-way is of beautiful Greek workmanship, ornamented in the Corinthian style, and in fine proportion and scale; the height is about twenty-four feet. I have sought in vain among the numerous funeral inscriptions for any trace of Lycian characters."

Coins among up like berries.

these ruins abounded, and were to be picked

"The number of coins and common gems of rude cutting that are found here is quite unaccountable. I obtained above thirty coins from a man, who said he often brought home a hundred in a day when he was ploughing, and that, if I liked, he would go and find some. One of our men picked up two in crossing a field as he drove the horses; they appear to be of all dates, but I hope some may be curious, having the Lycian characters upon them. I am delighted to recognise again on one the figure of Bellerophon, similar to the bas-relief in the tomb at Tlos; this is highly interesting, as being found in the valley of the Xanthus."

The

Leaving Patara, Mr. Fellows, next passing through Phellus and Antiphellus, places of no great interest, reached Myra, bearing the modern Turkish name of Dembre. Here were seen beautiful and perfect remains of the ancient city; among others more interesting, a multitude of tombs of course. theatre he found to be "among the largest and best built in Asia Minor; much of its fine corridor and proscenium remains; the upper seats have disappeared, but the present crop of wheat occupies little more than the area; probably about six feet of earth may have accumulated upon its surface." Among the sculptures on the tombs he met with examples of colored bas-reliefs, a practice well known to have been adopted by the Greeks in some of their works. In relation to this curious fact, so contrary to all our common notions of what is classical, he records in a note the opinion of Professor Müller, given on seeing the colored drawing from this tomb in Myra.

"The ancients painted their bas-reliefs; they only tinged their statues; tinging the drapery, leaving the flesh part uncolored; the wounds and blood were stained, and the ear-rings and ornaments gilded. Their temples were left white, but parts of the frieze and architectural ornaments were colored, but very minutely. Their temples of coarser materials were