tumbling in a broken and irregular channel below. A rugged pony track skirts the stream, and as the traveller ascends towards the other end of the huge ravine, it becomes fearfully grim and desolate. Beggars and volunteer guides pick their way by the traveller's side, and vie with one another in relating horrible traditions of the origin of the gap and of the dark deeds perpetrated within it. A monstrous giant is said, in the fury of his wrath, to have smitten the mountain asunder by his sword, and there to have avenged himself upon his enemies. Doubtless, the gap was originally produced by a violent convulsion of nature which split in twain a great mountain, leaving between the riven parts the deep defile. The guides on the way fire off, without notice, cannon at certain parts, and awake thundering echoes which rumble and reverberate, right and left, amidst hollows and caverns, until the whole region seems to tremble.

On reaching the uppermost ridge of the ascent, a lovely scene of contrast opens between it and what is termed 'the Black Valley.' The latter has in it dark pools, filled with water drained from the peat moss which covers the surrounding hills, and where thick, heavy mists brood over the landscape as if reluctant to allow it to be anywhere relieved by rays from the sun. By a gradual descent round to the left the upper edge of the lakes is reached, where boats are in waiting, which when entered are rowed off by sailor-like guides.

The LAKES of KILLARNEY are three in number: the UPPER LAKE, the MIDDLE LAKE, and the LOWER LAKE. Together they extend over some ten or twelve miles from end to end, broadening in their course downwards, and covering an area of some thousands of acres. For the most part, they spread out their waters at the foot of mountains of graceful, picturesque forms, and rich in colour; and each lake is studded more or less with islets of varied size, shape and clothing. The UPPER LAKE is the first approached by the visitor who goes by the Gap of Dunloe, and, though least, is not last in beauty and attractiveness. It is something more than two miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide. It is situated within an amphitheatre of mountains, is broken at the sides by numerous indentations, and has within it twelve small islands, all of which are covered over with plants and flowers of pleasing variety. The Arbutus is common on the shelves and shores of the Lakes of Killarney, and, though of Spanish origin, flourishes there as if of native growth. All the islands have on them more or less of this 'myrtle of Killarney,' as have most of the road-sides and grounds adjacent. The waters of the Upper Lake are smooth and

clear, and, with the vivid reflection of all around, present a scene of quiet beauty, too serene to admit of disturbance by the human voice, or by the dip of oars.

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Gliding softly along over this mirror of nature in its loveliest combinations, the long range,' or narrow passage of deep water, is reached, flowing like a river between rocks of romantic forms, each of which has its own legend. Towards the end of this long stretch of water rises on the left the famed EAGLE'S NEST,' which is a rock of pyramidal shape, some seven hundred feet high, covered with climbing foliage at the foot, but bald and rugged at the summit, where the royal bird of prey is said to have its habitation inaccessible by man. The echoes of bugle and cannon from this part are charming and astounding. The notes of the bugle swell and multiply by reverberation, until it would seem as if all nature had become vocal, and united to swell and multiply the sounds. The softer notes float around deliciously as if in a chorus of whispers, and they rise and fall, and rise and fall again, until, as if miles away, they die out in unseen valleys and glens. The roar of the cannon fired off appears to arouse all the mountains far and near into furious anger, and to fill heaven and earth with voices of loud thunder, that growl and then burst forth with terrific crashes which repeat themselves a dozen times over, until all nature seems roaring with desperate wrath. It is impossible for language, with all its similitudes and superlatives, adequately to express the effect of these echoes as they alternately awe, terrify and enchant the wondering visitant.

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Shortly after passing the Eagle's Nest,' a neck of broken and turbulent waters is reached, where the Upper Lake rushes into the Middle and Lower Lakes, and which is named the 'Meeting of the Waters.' Here the current is swift, and the traveller 'shoots the rapids,' under the guidance of skilled boatmen, much after the manner of the swift passage made between the rocks in the river St. Lawrence, in Canada. This part is spanned by an antique bridge of two high, narrow arches, named the 'old WEIR BRIDGE,' and which being mantled over at the top with brushwood, flanked on both sides with rich foliage, and reflected in the water before it, is among the most picturesque objects connected with the lakes. A Vignette illustration of this picturesque scene is given on the opposite page.

Skirting the way eastward, by what is named 'Dinis Island,' the TORC, or MIDDLE LAKE, is entered, and rowing forward a mile or so to the right, between long stretches of rock and herbage on the one hand, and thickly-growing foliage on the other, the eastern shore is reached, from whence ascent is made of the Torc mountain,'

where the magnificent cascade may be viewed precipitating its foaming sheet of white waters, and dashing its sparkling spray against shelving rocks some seventy feet downwards, almost perpendicularly. This graceful waterfall, which is supplied from what is named the Devil's Punch-Bowl,' in the Mangerton mountain above, has goodly frame-work in dark pines and firs at its sides. From halting-places in the ascent, and particularly from upper parts of it looking westward, the scene-especially when the sun is setting, and flooding the whole with his golden rays-is truly enchanting. This, doubtless, is the most expansive and most favourable point for viewing the lakes.

Northwards of this, at a distance of about a mile, is a very venerable ruin with walls and tower luxuriantly wrapped over with ivy, known as MUCKROSS ABBEY. On the south side of it is a burialground attached, and the whole is guarded and secluded by aged trees. From a remote period this has been celebrated as the burialplace of the O'Donoghues, the O'Sullivans, the M'Carthys, and other Irish families of fame. The descendants of such families are buried there still. Within the Abbey are the inscribed tombs of such families, and set up against the walls are curious gravestones, bearing inscriptions and heraldic emblems of the more celebrated dead interred therein.

Outside are ancient sepulchral vaults, overgrown with weeds and flowers, which, by their forms and appearances, carry back thought far into the past. These are mingled with more modern graves and gravestones; and, altogether, the Abbey and its adjuncts exhibit the most impressive scene of enclosed solitude. Beheld by moonlight the sight is especially solemn. A slight sketch of the scene, as thus viewed from the south-eastern corner of the burial-ground, is given on the next page.

Pursuing the way still further northwards, and passing the Tudor mansion of Captain HERBERT, M.P. for the county of Kerry, in which the lakes are situated-owner of the Abbey, and one of the largest land proprietors in the south of Ireland-Ross CASTLE appears standing on the edge of the most eastern portion of the lakes. It is. a castellated structure of massive masonry, with a high, square embattled tower-such as is indicated in the engraved Head-piece to this paper. In its character it bears all the features of a strong fortress, and fully answers to the stories related of its long resistance to desperate siege. The broad, outspreading platform on which it stands, the rich foliage encircling it, the thickly-grown ivy in which it is clad, with the water surrounding it, and with the background of solid, dark mountains, render the scenery here wonderfully fine.

Again taking boat, going westward awhile, and then turning to the left round the long stretch of headland boundary, the LOWER LAKE is seen in its length and breadth, and to the fullest advantage. This lake is the largest of the three. It covers some five thousand acres, and has in it as many as thirty islands, which mostly take their names from their shapes and resemblances. Hence we have Elephant Island, Lamb Island, Rabbit Island, O'Donoghue's Horse, etc., etc. The BAY of GLENA is soon reached, which, by competent judges, has been pronounced the most charming portion of the Lakes of Killarney. Backed by the high Purple Mountain,' with its rich, brown-crimson clothing of dense foliage down to the water's edge, with Lady Herbert's neat cottage and clean, green lawn in front,-and all mirrored in the glassy surface of the expanding water,—the scene is not only lovely but gorgeous.

Rowing northwards from this spacious bay the island of INNISFALLEN is reached. Its picturesque ruins, associated with trees of large growth and outspreading foliage, justly render it worthy of admiration. The stone remains upon this island are traditionally connected with monks in times when Ireland was the renowned seat of learning for

Western Europe. From this island, looking eastward across the lake towards Ross Castle, the view is delightful; and from it the tourist soon arrives at the foot of the lakes.

All this grand and beautiful scenery-Lakes, Abbey, Castle, Mountains, and Islands-is, as is well-known, associated with romantic legends which are eagerly related to visitors by accompanying guides and boatmen. Among these the most celebrated is the traditionary legend relating to the great PRINCE O'DONOGHUE, who, for an act of indiscretion with a certain fountain, is said to have been overwhelmed by an inundation of waters that at once covered him and all he possessed. He is declared still to live with a fair princess below the lakes. This legend is firmly and persistently believed by the natives of the region. Some of them positively affirm that they have personally seen what they relate; and the respective localities of his palace, stables, library, fields and gardens are pointed out. It is asserted that on a certain May morning of each year, he may be seen riding in shining armour on a snow-white horse over the surface of the lakes, attended by mirthful fairies, hovering before and around him-until all vanish together among the ruins of his castle. This tradition, no doubt, has, as have many other traditions, original basis in fact, and points backwards to the inundation of waters from the mountains and valleys around, which, in their overflow, first produced the lakes; and the alleged appearances of the princely horseman riding over the waters in early mornings in May, may be accounted for by the refracted rays of the rising sun among the mists which brood upon