Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan - John Lloyd Stephens - Google Böcker

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CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.-Village of Masaya.-Lake of Masaya.--Nindi

ri.-Ascent of the Volcano.-Account of it.-The Crater.-Descent into it.-

Volcano of Nindiri.-Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest.-

Return to Masaya.-Another Countryman.-Managua.-Lake of Managua.-

Fishing. Beautiful Scenery.-Mateares.-Questa del Relox.-Nagarotis.-

Crosses.-A Gamekeeper.-Pueblo Nuevo.

Beautiful Plain.-Leon.-Stroll through the Town.-Baneful Effects of Party

Spirit.-Scenes of Horror.-Unpleasant Intelligence.-Journey continued.-

A fastidious Beggar.-Chinandaga.-Gulf of Couchagua.-Visit to Realejo.-

Cotton Factory.-Harbour of Realejo.-El Viejo.-Port of Nagoscolo. — Im-

portance of a Passport.-Embarking Mules.-A Bungo.-Volcano of Cosagui-

na.-Eruption of 1835.-La Union

Journey to San Salvador.-A new Companion.-San Alejo.-San Miguel.-War

Alarms. Another Countryman. - State of San Salvador. - River Lempa. ·

San Vicente.-Volcano of San Vicente.-Thermal Springs.-Cojutepeque.-

Arrival at San Salvador. - Prejudice against Foreigners.- Contributions. -

Pressgangs.-Vice-president Vigil.-Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.

-Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.-Departure from San Salvador 41

Contributions.-El Baranco de Guaramal.-Volcano of Izalco.-Depredations of

Rascon.-Zonzonate.-News from Guatimala.-Journey continued.-Aguisal

CO.- -Apeneca.-Mountain of Aguachapa.-Subterranean Fires.-Aguachapa.—

Defeat of Morázan.-Confusion and Terror

Approach of Carrera's Forces.-Terror of the Inhabitants.-Their Flight.-Sur

render of the Town.-Ferocity of the Soldiery.-A Bulletin.-Diplomacy.-A

Passport.-A Breakfast.-An Alarm.-The Widow Padilla.-An Attack.-De

feat of Carrera's Forces.-The Town taken by General Morazan -His Entry.

The Widow's Son.-Visit to General Morazan.-His Appearance, Character,

&c.-Plans deranged .

Visit from General Morazan.-End of his Career.-Procuring a Guide.- Depar

ture for Guatimala.-Fright of the People.-The Rio Paz.-Hacienda of Pal

mita.-A fortunate Escape.-Hacienda of San José.-An awkward Predica

ment. A kind Host.-Rancho of Hocotilla.-Oratorio and Leon.-Rio de los

Esclavos.-The Village.-Approach to Guatimala.-Arrival at Guatimala.-A

Sketch of the Wars.-Defeat of Morazen.-Scene of Massacre

Ruins of Quirigua.-Visit to them.-Los Amates-Pyramidal Structure.-A

Colossal Head.-An Altar.-A Collection of Monuments.-Statues.-Charac-

ter of the Ruins.-A lost City.-Purchasing a ruined City

Reception at the Government House.-The Captain in Trouble.-A Change of

Character. Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.-Arrest of the Captain.-

His Release. Visit from a Countryman.-Dangers in Prospect.-Last Stroll

through the Suburbs.-Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.-Fearful

State of the Country.-Last Interview with Carrera.-Departure from Guati-

mala. A Don Quixote. - Ciudad Vieja. - Plain of El Vieja. - Volcanoes,

Plains, and Villages.-San Andres Isapa.-Dangerous Road.-A Molina. 125

Journey continued.-Barrancas.-Tecpan Guatimala.-A noble Church.-A sa-

cred Stone.-The ancient City.-Description of the Ruins.-A Molina.-Anoth-

er Earthquake--Patzum.-A Ravine.-Fortifications.-Los Altos. - Godines.

-Losing a good Friend.-Magnificent Scenery.-San Antonio.-Lake of Ati

Lake of Atitan.-Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.-A Sail on the Lake.—A dan-

gerous Situation.-A lofty Mountain Range.-Ascent of the Mountains.-Com-

manding View.-Beautiful Plain.-An elevated Village.-Ride along the Lake.

-Solola.-Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché.-Scenery on the Road.-Barrancas.

-San Thomas.-Whipping-posts.--Plain of Quiché.-The Village.-Ruins or

Quiché.-Its History.-Desolate Scene.-A facetious Cura.-Description of

the Ruins.-Plan.-The Royal Palace.-The Place of Sacrifice.-An Image.

-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Palace recent.-An Arch

Interior of a Convent.-Royal Bird of Quiché.-Indian Languages.-The Lord's

Prayer in the Quiché Language.-Numerals in the same.-Church of Quiché.

-Indian Superstitions.-Another lost City.-Tierra de Guerra.--The Abori

ginals.-Their Conversion to Christianity.-They were never conquered.—A

Living City.—Indian Tradition respecting this City.—Probably has never been

visited by the Whites.-Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise.-Depar-

ture.- San Pedro.-Virtue of a Passport.-A difficult Ascent.-Mountain

Scenery.-Totonicapan.-An excellent Dinner.--A Country of Aloes.-"River

of Blood."-Arrival at Quezaltenango
Page 189

Quezaltenango.-Account of it.-Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity.

-Appearance of the City.-The Convent.-Insurrection.-Carrera's March

upon Quezaltenango.-His Treatment of the Inhabitants.-Preparations for

Holy Week.-The Church.-A Procession.-Good Friday.-Celebration of the

Resurrection.-Opening Ceremony.-The Crucifixion.-A Sermon.- Descent

from the Cross.-Grand Procession.-Church of El Calvario.-The Case of

the Cura.-Warm Springs of Almolonga

Journey continued.-A Mountain Plain. - Lost Guides. - A trying Moment. —

Agua Calientes.-A magnificent View.- Gold Ore.- San Sebastiano.- Gue-

guetenango. Sierra Madre.-A huge Skeleton. The Ruins. - Pyramidal

Structures.-A Vault.-Mounds.-A welcome Addition.-Interior of a Mound.

-Vases.-Ascent of the Sierra Madre.-Buena Vista.-The Descent.-Todos

Santos.- San Martin.-San Andres Petapan.-A Forest on Fire.-Suffering

of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.-San Antonio de Guista

Comfortable Lodgings.-Journey continued.-Stony Road.-Beautiful River.-

Suspension Bridge.- The Dolores.-Rio Lagertero.- Enthusiasm brought

down. Another Bridge.-Entry into Mexico.-A Bath.-A Solitary Church.

-A Scene of Barrenness.-Zapolouta.-Comitan.-Another Countryman.-

More Perplexities. - Official Courtesy. - Trade of Comitan. - Smuggling.—

Scarcity of Soap .

Parting. Sotaná.-A Millionaire.-Ocosingo.-Ruins.-Beginning of the Rainy

Season. A Female Guide.-Arrival at the Ruins.-Stone Figures.-Pyrami

dal Structures.-An Arch.-A Stucco Ornament.-A Wooden Lintel.-A cu.

rious Cave. Buildings, &c.-A Causeway. - More Ruins. Journey to Pa-

lenque.-Rio Grande.-Cascades.-Succession of Villages.-A Maniac.-The

Yahalon.-Tumbala.-A wild Place.--A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.-

Indian Carriers.-A steep Mountain.-San Pedro

A wild Country.-Ascent of a Mountain.-Ride in a Silla.-A precarious Situa.

tion.-The Descent.-Rancho of Nopa.-Attacks of Moschetoes.-Approach

to Palenque.-Pasture Grounds.-Village of Palenque.-A crusty Official.-A

courteous Reception.-Scarcity of Provisions.-Sunday.-Cholera.-Another

Countryman. The Conversion, Apostacy, and Recovery of the Indians.-River

Chacamal.-The Caribs.-Ruins of Palenque

Preparations for visiting the Ruins. - A Turn-out. - Departure.-The Road.-

Rivers Micol and Otula.-Arrival at the Ruins.-The Palace.-A Feu-de-joie,

-Quarters in the Palace.-Inscriptions by former Visiters.-The Fate of

Beanham.-Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque.-Visit of Del Rio.-Expe-

dition of Dupaix.-Drawings of the present Work.-First Dinner at the Ru-

ins.-Mammoth Fireflies.-Sleeping Apartments.-Extent of the Ruins.-Ob

stacles to Exploration.-Suffering from Moschetoes.

Precautions against the Attacks of Moschetoes.-Mode of Life at Palenque.-

Description of the Palace.-Piers.- Hieroglyphics.—Figures.— Doorways.—

Corridors.-Courtyards.-A wooden Relic.--Stone Steps.-Towers.-Tablets.

-Stucco Ornaments, &c., &c.-The Royal Chapel.-Explorations.--An Aque、

duct.-An Alarm.-Insects.-Effect of Insect Stings.-Return to the Village

A Voice from the Ruins.-Buying Bread.-Arrival of Padres.-Cura of Palenque.

-Card Playing.-Sunday.-Mass.-A Dinner Party.-Mementoes of Home.-

Dinner Customs.-Return to the Ruins.-A marked Chapge.-Terrific Thun-

der.-A Whirlwind.-A Scene of the Sublime and Terrible

Plan of the Ruins.-Pyramidal Structure.-A Building.-Stucco Ornaments.-

Human Figures.-Tablets.-Remarkable Hieroglyphics.-Range of Pillars.—

Stone Terrace.-Another Building.-A large Tablet.-A Cross.-Conjectures

in regard to this Cross.-Beautiful Sculpture.-A Platform.-Curious De-

vices.-A Statue.-Another Pyramidal Structure, surmounted by a Building.-

Corridors. A curious Bas-relief.-Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas-relief-

Tablets and Figures.-The Oratorio.-More Pyramidal Structures and Build

ings.-Extent of the Ruins.-These Ruins the Remains of a polished and pe

culiar People.-Antiquity of Palenque

Departure from the Ruins.-Bad Road.-An Accident.-Arrival at the Village

-A Funeral Procession.-Negotiations for Purchasing Palenque.—Making

Casts.-Final Departure from Palenque.-Beautiful Plain.-Hanging Birds

nests. A Sitio.-Adventure with a monstrous Ape.-Hospitality of Padres.-

Las Playas.-A Tempest.-Moschetoes.-A Youthful Merchant.-Alligators.

-Another Funeral.-Disgusting Ceremonials

Embarcation.-An inundated Plain.-Rio Chico.-The Usumasinta.-Ric Pal-

isada.-Yucatan.-More Revolutions.-Vespers.-Embarcation for the Laguna.

-Shooting Alligators.-Tremendous Storm.-Boca Chico.-Lake of Terminos.

-A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest.-Arrival at the Laguna. . Page 374

Laguna.-Journey to Merida.-Sisal.-A new Mode of Conveyance.-Village of

Hunucama.-Arrival at Merida.-Aspect of the City.-Fête of Corpus Dom-

ini.-The Cathedral.-The Procession.-Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian

Women.-Palace of the Bishop.-The Theatre.-Journey to Uxmal.-Ha-

cienda of Vayalquex.-Value of Water.-Condition of the Indians in Yucatan.

-A peculiar kind of Coach.-Hacienda of Mucuyche.-A beautiful Grotto 391

Journey resumed.—Arrival at Uxmal.-Hacienda of Uxmal.-Major-domos.--

Adventures of a young Spaniard.-Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal.-First Sight

of the Ruins.-Character of the Indians.-Details of Hacienda Life.-A delicate

Case.-Illness of Mr. Catherwood.-Breaking up

Ruins of Uxmal.-A lofty Building.--Magnificent View from its Doorway.-Pe

culiar sculptured Ornaments.-Another Building, called by the Indians the

House of the Dwarf.-An Indian Legend.-The House of the Nuns.-The

House of Turtles.-The House of Pigeons.-The Guard-house.-Absence of

Water. The House of the Governor.-Terraces.- Wooden Lintels.-Details

of the House of the Governor.-Doorways.-Corridors.-A Beam of Wood, in

scribed with Hieroglyphics.-Sculptured Stones, &c.
420

Exploration finished.-Who built these ruined Cities?-Opinion of Dupaix.-

These Ruins bear no Resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome.-

Nothing like them in Europe.-Do not Resemble the known Works of Japan

and China. Neither those of Hindu.-No Excavations found.-The Pyramids

of Egypt, in their original State, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids

of America.-The Temples of Egypt not like those of America.-Sculpture not

the same as that of Egypt.-Probable Antiquity of these Ruins.-Accounts of

the Spanish Historians.-These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the

Country at the time of the Spanish Conquest.-These Races not yet extinct 436

Journey to Merida.-Village of Moona.-A Pond of Water, a Curiosity.-Aboula.

-Indian Runners.-Merida.-Departure.-Hunucama.-Siege of Campeachy.

-Embarcation for Havana.-Incidents of the Passage.-Fourth of July at Sea.

-Shark-fishing.-Getting lost at Sea.-Relieved by the Helen Maria.-Pas

sage to New-York.-Arrival.-Conclusion.

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