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CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.-Village of Masaya.-Lake of Masaya.--Nindi
ri.-Ascent of the Volcano.-Account of it.-The Crater.-Descent into it.-
Volcano of Nindiri.-Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest.-
Return to Masaya.-Another Countryman.-Managua.-Lake of Managua.-
Fishing. Beautiful Scenery.-Mateares.-Questa del Relox.-Nagarotis.-
Crosses.-A Gamekeeper.-Pueblo Nuevo.
CHAPTER II.
Page 7
Beautiful Plain.-Leon.-Stroll through the Town.-Baneful Effects of Party
Spirit.-Scenes of Horror.-Unpleasant Intelligence.-Journey continued.-
A fastidious Beggar.-Chinandaga.-Gulf of Couchagua.-Visit to Realejo.-
Cotton Factory.-Harbour of Realejo.-El Viejo.-Port of Nagoscolo. — Im-
portance of a Passport.-Embarking Mules.-A Bungo.-Volcano of Cosagui-
na.-Eruption of 1835.-La Union
CHAPTER III.
22
Journey to San Salvador.-A new Companion.-San Alejo.-San Miguel.-War
Alarms. Another Countryman. - State of San Salvador. - River Lempa. ·
San Vicente.-Volcano of San Vicente.-Thermal Springs.-Cojutepeque.-
Arrival at San Salvador. - Prejudice against Foreigners.- Contributions. -
Pressgangs.-Vice-president Vigil.-Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.
-Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.-Departure from San Salvador 41
CHAPTER IV.
Contributions.-El Baranco de Guaramal.-Volcano of Izalco.-Depredations of
Rascon.-Zonzonate.-News from Guatimala.-Journey continued.-Aguisal
CO.- -Apeneca.-Mountain of Aguachapa.-Subterranean Fires.-Aguachapa.—
Defeat of Morázan.-Confusion and Terror
CHAPTER V.
58
Approach of Carrera's Forces.-Terror of the Inhabitants.-Their Flight.-Sur
render of the Town.-Ferocity of the Soldiery.-A Bulletin.-Diplomacy.-A
Passport.-A Breakfast.-An Alarm.-The Widow Padilla.-An Attack.-De
feat of Carrera's Forces.-The Town taken by General Morazan -His Entry.
The Widow's Son.-Visit to General Morazan.-His Appearance, Character,
&c.-Plans deranged .
74
CHAPTER VI.
Visit from General Morazan.-End of his Career.-Procuring a Guide.- Depar
ture for Guatimala.-Fright of the People.-The Rio Paz.-Hacienda of Pal
mita.-A fortunate Escape.-Hacienda of San José.-An awkward Predica
ment. A kind Host.-Rancho of Hocotilla.-Oratorio and Leon.-Rio de los
Esclavos.-The Village.-Approach to Guatimala.-Arrival at Guatimala.-A
Sketch of the Wars.-Defeat of Morazen.-Scene of Massacre
Page 99
CHAPTER VII.
Ruins of Quirigua.-Visit to them.-Los Amates-Pyramidal Structure.-A
Colossal Head.-An Altar.-A Collection of Monuments.-Statues.-Charac-
ter of the Ruins.-A lost City.-Purchasing a ruined City
CHAPTER VIII.
118
Reception at the Government House.-The Captain in Trouble.-A Change of
Character. Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.-Arrest of the Captain.-
His Release. Visit from a Countryman.-Dangers in Prospect.-Last Stroll
through the Suburbs.-Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.-Fearful
State of the Country.-Last Interview with Carrera.-Departure from Guati-
mala. A Don Quixote. - Ciudad Vieja. - Plain of El Vieja. - Volcanoes,
Plains, and Villages.-San Andres Isapa.-Dangerous Road.-A Molina. 125
-
CHAPTER IX.
Journey continued.-Barrancas.-Tecpan Guatimala.-A noble Church.-A sa-
cred Stone.-The ancient City.-Description of the Ruins.-A Molina.-Anoth-
er Earthquake--Patzum.-A Ravine.-Fortifications.-Los Altos. - Godines.
-Losing a good Friend.-Magnificent Scenery.-San Antonio.-Lake of Ati
tan
CHAPTER X.
146
Lake of Atitan.-Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.-A Sail on the Lake.—A dan-
gerous Situation.-A lofty Mountain Range.-Ascent of the Mountains.-Com-
manding View.-Beautiful Plain.-An elevated Village.-Ride along the Lake.
-Solola.-Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché.-Scenery on the Road.-Barrancas.
-San Thomas.-Whipping-posts.--Plain of Quiché.-The Village.-Ruins or
Quiché.-Its History.-Desolate Scene.-A facetious Cura.-Description of
the Ruins.-Plan.-The Royal Palace.-The Place of Sacrifice.-An Image.
-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Palace recent.-An Arch
161
CHAPTER XI.
Interior of a Convent.-Royal Bird of Quiché.-Indian Languages.-The Lord's
Prayer in the Quiché Language.-Numerals in the same.-Church of Quiché.
-Indian Superstitions.-Another lost City.-Tierra de Guerra.--The Abori
ginals.-Their Conversion to Christianity.-They were never conquered.—A
CONTENTS.
Living City.—Indian Tradition respecting this City.—Probably has never been
visited by the Whites.-Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise.-Depar-
ture.- San Pedro.-Virtue of a Passport.-A difficult Ascent.-Mountain
Scenery.-Totonicapan.-An excellent Dinner.--A Country of Aloes.-"River
of Blood."-Arrival at Quezaltenango Page 189
CHAPTER XII.
Quezaltenango.-Account of it.-Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity.
-Appearance of the City.-The Convent.-Insurrection.-Carrera's March
upon Quezaltenango.-His Treatment of the Inhabitants.-Preparations for
Holy Week.-The Church.-A Procession.-Good Friday.-Celebration of the
Resurrection.-Opening Ceremony.-The Crucifixion.-A Sermon.- Descent
from the Cross.-Grand Procession.-Church of El Calvario.-The Case of
the Cura.-Warm Springs of Almolonga
203
---
CHAPTER XIII.
Journey continued.-A Mountain Plain. - Lost Guides. - A trying Moment. —
Agua Calientes.-A magnificent View.- Gold Ore.- San Sebastiano.- Gue-
guetenango. Sierra Madre.-A huge Skeleton. The Ruins. - Pyramidal
Structures.-A Vault.-Mounds.-A welcome Addition.-Interior of a Mound.
-Vases.-Ascent of the Sierra Madre.-Buena Vista.-The Descent.-Todos
Santos.- San Martin.-San Andres Petapan.-A Forest on Fire.-Suffering
of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.-San Antonio de Guista
CHAPTER XIV.
. 221
Comfortable Lodgings.-Journey continued.-Stony Road.-Beautiful River.-
Suspension Bridge.- The Dolores.-Rio Lagertero.- Enthusiasm brought
down. Another Bridge.-Entry into Mexico.-A Bath.-A Solitary Church.
-A Scene of Barrenness.-Zapolouta.-Comitan.-Another Countryman.-
More Perplexities. - Official Courtesy. - Trade of Comitan. - Smuggling.—
Scarcity of Soap .
CHAPTER XV.
240
Parting. Sotaná.-A Millionaire.-Ocosingo.-Ruins.-Beginning of the Rainy
Season. A Female Guide.-Arrival at the Ruins.-Stone Figures.-Pyrami
dal Structures.-An Arch.-A Stucco Ornament.-A Wooden Lintel.-A cu.
rious Cave. Buildings, &c.-A Causeway. - More Ruins. Journey to Pa-
lenque.-Rio Grande.-Cascades.-Succession of Villages.-A Maniac.-The
Yahalon.-Tumbala.-A wild Place.--A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.-
Indian Carriers.-A steep Mountain.-San Pedro
CHAPTER XVI.
255
A wild Country.-Ascent of a Mountain.-Ride in a Silla.-A precarious Situa.
tion.-The Descent.-Rancho of Nopa.-Attacks of Moschetoes.-Approach
to Palenque.-Pasture Grounds.-Village of Palenque.-A crusty Official.-A
courteous Reception.-Scarcity of Provisions.-Sunday.-Cholera.-Another
Countryman. The Conversion, Apostacy, and Recovery of the Indians.-River
Chacamal.-The Caribs.-Ruins of Palenque
CHAPTER XVII.
. 273
Preparations for visiting the Ruins. - A Turn-out. - Departure.-The Road.-
Rivers Micol and Otula.-Arrival at the Ruins.-The Palace.-A Feu-de-joie,
-Quarters in the Palace.-Inscriptions by former Visiters.-The Fate of
Beanham.-Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque.-Visit of Del Rio.-Expe-
dition of Dupaix.-Drawings of the present Work.-First Dinner at the Ru-
ins.-Mammoth Fireflies.-Sleeping Apartments.-Extent of the Ruins.-Ob
stacles to Exploration.-Suffering from Moschetoes.
CHAPTER XVIII.
. 289
Precautions against the Attacks of Moschetoes.-Mode of Life at Palenque.-
Description of the Palace.-Piers.- Hieroglyphics.—Figures.— Doorways.—
Corridors.-Courtyards.-A wooden Relic.--Stone Steps.-Towers.-Tablets.
-Stucco Ornaments, &c., &c.-The Royal Chapel.-Explorations.--An Aque、
duct.-An Alarm.-Insects.-Effect of Insect Stings.-Return to the Village
of Palenque
308
CHAPTER XIX.
A Voice from the Ruins.-Buying Bread.-Arrival of Padres.-Cura of Palenque.
-Card Playing.-Sunday.-Mass.-A Dinner Party.-Mementoes of Home.-
Dinner Customs.-Return to the Ruins.-A marked Chapge.-Terrific Thun-
der.-A Whirlwind.-A Scene of the Sublime and Terrible
325
CHAPTER XX.
Plan of the Ruins.-Pyramidal Structure.-A Building.-Stucco Ornaments.-
Human Figures.-Tablets.-Remarkable Hieroglyphics.-Range of Pillars.—
Stone Terrace.-Another Building.-A large Tablet.-A Cross.-Conjectures
in regard to this Cross.-Beautiful Sculpture.-A Platform.-Curious De-
vices.-A Statue.-Another Pyramidal Structure, surmounted by a Building.-
Corridors. A curious Bas-relief.-Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas-relief-
Tablets and Figures.-The Oratorio.-More Pyramidal Structures and Build
ings.-Extent of the Ruins.-These Ruins the Remains of a polished and pe
culiar People.-Antiquity of Palenque
CHAPTER XXI.
337
Departure from the Ruins.-Bad Road.-An Accident.-Arrival at the Village
-A Funeral Procession.-Negotiations for Purchasing Palenque.—Making
Casts.-Final Departure from Palenque.-Beautiful Plain.-Hanging Birds
nests. A Sitio.-Adventure with a monstrous Ape.-Hospitality of Padres.-
Las Playas.-A Tempest.-Moschetoes.-A Youthful Merchant.-Alligators.
-Another Funeral.-Disgusting Ceremonials
- 356
CHAPTER XXII.
vii
Embarcation.-An inundated Plain.-Rio Chico.-The Usumasinta.-Ric Pal-
isada.-Yucatan.-More Revolutions.-Vespers.-Embarcation for the Laguna.
-Shooting Alligators.-Tremendous Storm.-Boca Chico.-Lake of Terminos.
-A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest.-Arrival at the Laguna. . Page 374
CHAPTER XXIII.
Laguna.-Journey to Merida.-Sisal.-A new Mode of Conveyance.-Village of
Hunucama.-Arrival at Merida.-Aspect of the City.-Fête of Corpus Dom-
ini.-The Cathedral.-The Procession.-Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian
Women.-Palace of the Bishop.-The Theatre.-Journey to Uxmal.-Ha-
cienda of Vayalquex.-Value of Water.-Condition of the Indians in Yucatan.
-A peculiar kind of Coach.-Hacienda of Mucuyche.-A beautiful Grotto 391
CHAPTER XXIV.
Journey resumed.—Arrival at Uxmal.-Hacienda of Uxmal.-Major-domos.--
Adventures of a young Spaniard.-Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal.-First Sight
of the Ruins.-Character of the Indians.-Details of Hacienda Life.-A delicate
Case.-Illness of Mr. Catherwood.-Breaking up
CHAPTER XXV.
410
Ruins of Uxmal.-A lofty Building.--Magnificent View from its Doorway.-Pe
culiar sculptured Ornaments.-Another Building, called by the Indians the
House of the Dwarf.-An Indian Legend.-The House of the Nuns.-The
House of Turtles.-The House of Pigeons.-The Guard-house.-Absence of
Water. The House of the Governor.-Terraces.- Wooden Lintels.-Details
of the House of the Governor.-Doorways.-Corridors.-A Beam of Wood, in
scribed with Hieroglyphics.-Sculptured Stones, &c. 420
CHAPTER XXVI.
Exploration finished.-Who built these ruined Cities?-Opinion of Dupaix.-
These Ruins bear no Resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome.-
Nothing like them in Europe.-Do not Resemble the known Works of Japan
and China. Neither those of Hindu.-No Excavations found.-The Pyramids
of Egypt, in their original State, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids
of America.-The Temples of Egypt not like those of America.-Sculpture not
the same as that of Egypt.-Probable Antiquity of these Ruins.-Accounts of
the Spanish Historians.-These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the
Country at the time of the Spanish Conquest.-These Races not yet extinct 436
CHAPTER XXVII.
Journey to Merida.-Village of Moona.-A Pond of Water, a Curiosity.-Aboula.
-Indian Runners.-Merida.-Departure.-Hunucama.-Siege of Campeachy.
-Embarcation for Havana.-Incidents of the Passage.-Fourth of July at Sea.
-Shark-fishing.-Getting lost at Sea.-Relieved by the Helen Maria.-Pas
sage to New-York.-Arrival.-Conclusion.
458