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CONTENTS

THE SECOND VOLUME.

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• *CHAPTER I..

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.—Village of Masaya.—Lake of Masays.—Nindi

n.—Ascent of the Volcano.—Account of it.—The Crater.—Descent into it.—

Volcano of Nindiri.—Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest.—

Return to Masaya.—Another Countryman.—Managua.—Lake of Managua.—

Fishing.—Beautiful Scenery.—Matearcs.—Quests del Reloz.—Nagarotis.—

Crosses.—A Gamekeeper.—Pueblo Nuevo Page 7

CHAPTER II.

Beautiful Plain.—Leon.—Stroll through the Town.—Baneful Effects of Party

Spirit.—Scenes of Horror.—Unpleasant Intelligence.—Journey continued.—

A fastidious Beggar.—Chinandaga.—Gulf of Couchagua.—Visit to Realejo.—

Cotton Factory.—Harbour of Realejo.—El Viejo.—Port of Nagoscolo— Im-

portance of a Passport.—Embarking Mules.—A Bungo.—Volcano of Cosagui-

na.—Eruption of 1835.—La Union . 22

CHAPTER III.

Journey to San Salvador.—A new Companion.—San Alejo.—San Miguel.—War

Alarms. — Another Countryman. — State of San Salvador. — River Lempa.—

San Vicente.—Volcano of San Vicente.—Thermal Springs.—Cojutepeque.—

Arrival at San Salvador. — Prejudice against Foreigners.— Contributions.—

Pressgangs.—Vice-president Vigil.—Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.

—Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.—Departure from San Salvador 41

« r#CHAPTER IV.

Contributions.—El Baranco de Guaramal.—Volcano of Izalco.—Depredations oi

Rascon.—Zonzonate.—News from Guatimala.—Journey continued.—Aguisal

co.—Apeneca.—Mountain of Aguachapa.—Subterranean Fires.—Aguachapa.—

Defeat of Morazan.—Confusion and Terror '. 88

CHAPTER V.

Approach of Carreia's Forces.—Terror of the Inhabitants.—Their Flight.—Sui

render of the Town.—Ferocity of the Soldiery.—A Bulletin.—Diplomacy.—A

Passport.—A Breakfast.—An Alarm.—The Widow Padilla.—An Attack.—Ds

feat of Carrera's Forces.—The Town taken by General Morazan —His Entry.

—The Widow's Son.—Visit to General Moiazan.—His Appearance, Character,

74
CHAPTER VI.

Visit from General Mcazan.—End of his Career.—Procuring a Guide.— Depai

ture for Guatimala.—Fr'ght of the People.—The Rio Paz.—Hacienda of Pal

mita.—A fortunate Escapo.—Hacienda of San Jose.—An awkward Predicament.—A kind Host.—Rancho of Hocotilla.—Oratorio and Leon.—Rio do lo»

Esclavos.—The Village.—App*o»ch to Guatimala.—Arrival at Guatimala.—A

Sketch of the Wars.—Defeat of Mcnztn.—Scene of Massccre . Page 9?

CHAPTER VII.

Ruins of Quirigua.—Visit to them.—Los Amates.—Pyramidal Structure.—A

Colossal Head.—An Altar.—A Collection of Monuments.—Statue,*.—Charac-

ter of the Ruins.—A lost City.—Purchasing a ruined C'ty . . 118

CHAPTER VIII.

Reception at the Government House.—The Captain in Trouble.—A Change ol

Character.—Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.—Arrest of the Captain.—

His Release.—Visit from a Countryman.—Dangers in Prospect.—List Stroll

through the Suburbs.—Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.—Fearful

State of the Country.—Last Interview with Carrera.—Departure from Guati-

mala.— A Don Quixote. — Ciudad Vieja. — Plain of El Vieja. — Volcanoes,

Plains, and Villages.—San Andres Isapa.—Dangerous Road.—A Molina . 125

CHAPTER IX.

journey continued.—Barrancas.—Tecpan Guatimala.—A noble Church.—A sa-

cred Stone.—The ancient City.—Description of the Ruins.—A Molina.—Anoth-

er Earthquake—Patzum.—A Ravine.—Fortifications.—Los Altos. — Godines.

—Losing a good Friend.—Magnificent Scenery.—San Antonio.—Lake of Ati

tan , 146

CHAPTER X.

Lake of Atitan.—Conjectures as to its Origin, &c—A Sail on the Lake.—A dan-

gerous Situation.—A lofty Mountain Range.—AscenWof the Mountains.—Com-

manding View.—Beautiful Plain.—An elevated Village.—Ride along the Lake.

—Solola.—Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiche.—Scenery on the Road.—Barrancas.

—San Thomas.—Whipping-posts.—Plain of Quiche.—The Village.—Ruins oi

Quiche.—Its History.—Desolate Scene.—A facetious Cura.—Description ol

the Ruins.—Plan.—The Royal Palace.—The Place of Sacrifice.—An Image.

—Two Heads, &c—Destruction of the Palace recent.—An Arch . .161

CHAPTER XI.

Interior of a Convent.—Royal Bird of Quiche.—Indian Languages.—The Lord s

Prayer in the Quiche Language.—Numerals in the same Church of Quiche.

—Indian Superstitions.—Another lost City.—Tierra de Guerra.—The Aboriginals.—Their Conversion to Christianity.—They were never conquered.—A

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firing City.—Indian Tradition respecting this City.—Probably has never been

visited by the Whites.—Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise.—Depar-

ture.—San Pedro.—Virtue of a Passport.—A difficult Ascent.—Mountain

Scenery.—Totonicapan.—An excellent Dinner.—A Country of Aloes.—" River

of Blooa."—Arrival at Quezaltenango . ... . . .Page 180

CHAPTER XII.

Quezaltenango.—Account of it.—Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity.

—Appearance of the City.—The Convent.—Insurrection.—Carrera's March

upon Quezaltenango.—His Treatment of the Inhabitants.—Preparations for

Holy Week.—The Church.—A Procession.—Good Friday.—Celebration of the

Resurrection.—Opening Ceremony.—The Crucifixion.—A Sermon.—Descent

from the Cross.—Grand Procession.—Church of El Calvario.—The Case of

theCura.—Warm Springs of Almolonga 203

CHAPTER XIII.

Journey continued.—A Mountain Plain. — Lost Guides. — A trying Moment . —

Agua Calientes.—A magnificent View.— Gold Ore.— San Sebastiono.— Gue-

guetenango. — Sierra Madre.— A huge Skeleton. — The Ruins. — Pyramidal

Structures.—A Vault.—Mounds.—A welcome Addition.—Interior of a Mound.

—Vases.—Ascent of the Sierra Madre.—Buena Vista.—The Descent.—Todos

Santos.—San Martin.—San Andres Petapan.—A Forest on Fire.—Suffering

of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.—San Antonio de Guista . . .221

CHAPTER XIV.

Comfortable Lodgings.—Journey continued.—Stony Road.—Beautiful River.—

Suspension Bridge.— The Dolores.—Rio Lagertero.— Enthusiasm brought

down.—Another Bridge.—Entry into Mexico.—A Bath.—A Solitary Church.

—A Scene of Barrenness.—Zapolouta.—Comitan.—Another Countryman.—

More Perplexities. — Official Courtesy. — Trade of Comitan. — Smuggling. —

Scarcity of Soap 240

CHAPTER XV.

Parting.—Sotana.—A Millionaire.—Ocosingo.—Ruins.—Beginning of the Rainy

Season.—A Female Guide.—Arrival at the Ruins.—Stone Figures.—Pyrami

dal Structures.—An Arch.—A Stucco Ornament.—A Wooden Lintel.—A cu-

rious Cave. — Buildings, ice— A Causeway.— More Ruins. — Journey to Pa-

lenque.—Rio Grande.—Cascades.—Succession of Villages.—A Maniac—The

Yahalon.—Tumbala.—A wild Place.—A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.—

Indian Carriers.—A steep Mountain.—San Pedro . . ■ . . 255

CHAPTER XVI.

A wild Country.—Ascent of a Mountain.—Ride in a Sflla.—A precarious Situa-

tion.—The Descent.—Rancho of Nopa.—Attacks of Moschetoes.—Approach

to Palenque.—Pasture Grounds.—Village of Palenque.—A crusty Official.—A
courteous Reception.—Scarcity of Provisions.—Sunday.—Cholera.—Another

Countryman.—The Conversion, Apostacy, and Recovery of the Indians.—River

Chacainal.—The Caribs.—Ruins of Palenque 273

CHAPTER XVII.

Preparations for visiting the Ruins. — A Tum-out.— Departure.—The Road.-

Rivers Micol and Otula.—Arrival at the Kuins.—The Palace.—A Feu-de-joio,

—Quarters in the Palace.—Inscriptions by former Visiters.—The Fate of

Beanham.—Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque.—Visit of Del Rio.—Expe-

dition of Dupaix.—Drawings of the present Work.—First Dinner at the Ru-

ins.—Mammoth Fireflies.—Sleeping Apartments.—Extent of the Ruins.—Ob

stacles to Exploration.—Suffering from Moschetoes 28S

CHAPTER XVIII.

Precautions against the Attacks of Moschetoes.—Mode of Life at Palenque.—

Description of the Palace.— Piers.— Hieroglyphics.— Figures.—Doorways.—

Corridors.—Courtyards.—A wooden Relic—Stone Steps.—Towers.—Tablets.

—Stucco Ornaments, &c, &c—The Royal Chapel.—Explorations.—An Aque-

duct—An Alarm.—Insects.—Effect of Insect Stings.—Return to the Village

of Palenque 308

CHAPTER XIX.

A Voice from the Ruins.—Buying Bread.—Arrival of Padres.—Cura of Palenque.

—Card Playing.—Sunday.—Mass.—A Dinner Party.—Mementoes of Home.—

Dinner Customs.—Return to the Ruins.—A marked Change.—Terrific Thun-

der.—A Whirlwind.—A Scene of the Sublime and Terrible . . . 385

CHAPTER XX.

Plan of the Ruins.—Pyramidal Structure.—A Building.—Stucco Ornaments.—

Human Figures.—Tablets.—Remarkable Hieroglyphics.—Range of Pillars.—

Stone Terrace.—Another Building.—A large Tablet.—A Cross.—Conjectures

in regard to this Cross.—Beautiful Sculpture.—A Platform.—Curious De-

vices.—A Statue.—Another Pyramidal Structure, surmounted by a Building.—

Corridors.—A curious Bas-relief.—Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas-relief—

Tablets and Figures.—The Oratorio.—More Pyramidal Structures and Build

ings.—Extent of the Ruins.—These Ruins the Remains of a polished and pe-

culiar People.—Antiquity of Palenque 3X

CHAPTER XXI.

Departure from the Ruins.—Bad Road.—An Accident.—Arrival at the Village

—A Funeral Procession.—Negotiations for Purchasing Palenque.—Makinj

Casts.—Final Departure from Palenque.—Beautiful Plain.—Hanging Birds'

nests.—A Sitio.—Adventure with a monstrous Ape.—Hospitality of Padres.—

Las Playas.—A Tempest.—Moschetoes.—A Youthful Merchant.—Alligators.

—Another Funeral.—Disgusting Ceremonials . . 35k

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CHAPTER XXII.

Embarcation.—An inundated Plain.—Rio Chico.—The Usumasinta.—Ric Pal-

isada.—Yucatan.—More Revolutions.—Vespers.—Embarcation for the Laguna.

—Shooting Alligators.—Tremendous Storm.—Boca Chico.—Lake of Tenninos.

—A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest.—Arrival at the Laguna . . Page 374

CHAPTER XXIII.

Laguna.—Journey to Merida.—Sisal.—A new Mode of Conveyance.—Village o!

Hunucama.—Arrival at Merida.—Aspect of the City.—FAte of Corpus Dom-

ini.—The Cathedral.—The Procession.—Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian

Women.—Palace of the Bishop.—The Theatre.—Journey to Uxmal.—Ha-

cienda of Vayalquex.—Value of Water.—Condition of the Indians in Yucatan.

—A peculiar kind of Coach.—Hacienda of Mucuyche.—A beautiful Grotto 391

CHAPTER XXIV.

Journey resumed.—Arrival at Uxmal.—Hacienda of Uxmal.— Major-domos.—

Adventures of a young Spaniard.—Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal.—First Sight

of the Ruins.—Character of the Indians.—Details of Hacienda Life.—A delicate

Case.—Illness of Mr. Catherwood.—Breaking up . . . .410

CHAPTER XXV.

Ruins of Uxmal—A lofty Building.—Magnificent View from its Doorway.—Peculiar sculptured Ornaments.—Another Building, called by the Indians the

House of the Dwarf.—An Indian Legend.—The House of the Nuns.—The

House of Turtles.—The House of Pigeons.—The Guard-house.—Absence ot

Water.—The House of the Governor.—Terraces.—Wooden Lintels.—Details

of the House of the Governor.—Doorways.—Corridors.—A Beam of Wood, inscribed with Hieroglyphics.—Sculptured Stones, &c . . . .420

CHAPTER XXVI.

Exploration finished.—Who built these ruined Cities ?—Opinion of Dupaix.—

These Ruins bear no Resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome.—

Nothing like them in Europe.—Do not Resemble the known Works of Japan

and China.—Neither those of Hindu.—No Excavations found.—The Pyramids

of Egypt, in their original State, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids

of America.—The Temples of Egypt not like those of America.—Sculpture not

the same as that of Egypt.—Probable Antiquity of these Ruins.—Accounts of

the Spanish Historians.—These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the

Country at the time of the Spanish Conquest.—These Races not yet extinct 43A

CHAPTER XXVII.

Journey to Merida.—Village of Moona.—A Pond of Water, a Curiosity.—Aboula.

—Indian Runners.—Merida.—Departure.—Hunucama.—Siege of Campeachy.

—Embarcation for Havana.—Incidents of the Passage.—Fourth of July at Sea

—Shark-fishing.—Getting lost at Sea.—Relieved by the Helen Maria.—Pas

sage to New-York.—Arrival.—Conclusion .... . 458

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