incredulity of many a large and wealthy church in a civilized land.* As a church they are independent of the pecuniary aid of the A. B. C. F. M., and even send pecuniary assistance to other distant fields of missionary enterprise.

CHAPTER XIII.

FROM KOLOA TO LIHUE.

Uplands and Lowlands. -The "Gap."-A Legend.-Scenery.-Lihue. Sugar Plantations.-Labor.-Na-wili-wili Harbor and River.-Pleasure Party.-The "Stars and Stripes."-Significant Deportment of the Natives.—Remarkable Rock and Cave.-Valley of Cascades.-Moonlight.-Lunar Rainbows.

THE journey from Koloa to Lihue is among some of the most picturesque objects on the group. A gradual ascent is visible until the face of the country assumes a broad upland, slightly undulated. These uplands are grand in their physical character; borrowing, as they do, much of their noble aspect from the contiguous mountains, whose Atlantean shoulders seem to pierce the skies, a traveler can not fail to be repaid for his visit. These elevated plains, containing many thousand acres of the richest soil, extend through a natural opening in the mountains, which is denominated the "Gap." This break in the chain is three miles wide, and forms a natural course for the northeast trades, which sometimes come sweeping down with great violence.

At the northern extremity of the "Gap," the uplands term

* The following items I have copied from the Church Records for 1852:

Toward the support of the resident missionary... $250 00

For the native preacher

For the new church at Waimea

For the Mission House at Liane

For the Micronesian Mission .

For repairing the Mission House at Koloa .

Total.

80 00

50 00

132 00

36 00

25 00

$578 00

inate and the lowlands commence. The soil of these depressed plains is exceedingly fertile. In all probability, it is not surpassed by any farm in the Western States, or by the best ranchos in California. Yet, for all this, square miles of territory, over which the plowshare has never passed, are lying waste, and afford nothing but pasture for cattle.

The descent from the upper to the lower plains is down an abrupt slope nearly two hundred feet. It is associated with a bloody deed. Tradition relates that in the days of despotism, when chiefs controlled the services and even the lives of the common people, a chief commanded one of his retainers to carry him on his shoulders up this hill, with the threat, however, that if he failed to carry him up without resting, he would run him through with his spear. The chief was a very large man, and the day was excessively warm. The retainer exerted every nerve, the perspiration streamed from every pore, and, at last, blood followed sweat. Before he reached the top of the ascent he fell exhausted. The tyrant was true to his word; maddened by disappointment, he grasped his huge warspear and dispatched his helpless victim. At this day, and especially in the darkness of night, it is regarded by the natives with a superstitious horror.

On the right of the path leading over these lowlands, the scenery is magnificent. In the chain of mountains separating Koloa from Lihue, there is a lofty bluff which rears its giant forehead far above its surrounding brethren; and from this circumstance, and the undoubted antiquity of its existence, it has received the highly expressive title of "Hoary Head." A little in advance of this savage summit there stands a small pillar of basaltic rock, which is called "Sentinel Peak." It looks as if it had been placed there by human hands; but it is strictly one of Nature's freaks. During the days of idolatry, it was supposed to be the abode of the spirit of a departed king, and was worshiped with superstitious veneration. One of the most finished landscapes in nature may be found stretching out from this very spot.

The district of Lihue is delightful and invigorating. The

1

SUGAR PLANTATION-LABOR.

181

soil is rich, capable of producing every tropical vegetable, as well as several specimens of foreign grain. The temperature is nearly the same as that of Koloa, being a little cooler and more bracing. Vegetation is perennial, for the frequent and genial showers enrich nature with the baptism of an eternal April. The foliage is fanned by the incessant breath of the warm trade-winds.

The principal village is Na-wili-wili. In the district there is a male penitentiary.

The sugar plantation, known as the Lihue Estate, can not fail to attract the notice of a traveler. It is the property of Messrs. Pierce and Company, of Boston. At the residence of J. F. B. Marshall, Esq., one of the very gentlemanly proprietors, which stands on the estate, I spent several days, and he very politely showed me over the entire premises. The entire estate covers three thousand acres, part of which was held on lease. There were two hundred acres of cane, in a high state of cultivation, besides a large crop which was being expressed into sugar. The cane assumes a large growth. I measured one piece, and found it to be fourteen feet in length, and nine inches in girth round the lower joints.

Hitherto this estate has been conducted at an enormous outlay of money and labor. Several miles of road, leading to the different parts of the estate, had to be made. The machinery in the grinding-house is of a superior character, and was imported from the United States. Mr. Marshall stated that, when it was being conveyed on a raft from the ship to the shore, several portions of it fell overboard, but they were recovered by some natives who possessed great skill in diving.

The cost of raising cane is about the same as at Koloa, and labor is secured from Coolies and Hawaiians at twenty-five cents per day.

Within a half hour's ride of the Lihue Estate, and immediately on the south, are the harbor and river of Na-wili-wili. The harbor is bounded by rocky heights on two sides. It is small, and has a fine sandy bottom, with water enough for vessels of a small tonnage. The anchorage is deemed safe

except when the sea is driven in by the heavy northeast trades. At such times, getting out is difficult and dangerous, but an attempt to escape is the only alternative left to the mariner.

Into this highly romantic little harbor the Na-wili-wili River empties. A bar of quicksand, just covered by the water at low tide, stretches across its mouth and precludes even schooner navigation. The river, so far as the purposes of commerce are concerned, is more beautiful than useful. But the majestic scenes which stud its banks can not fail to leave a lasting impression on the mind of a lover of Nature. In ascending it, the picturesque plains of the Lihue district rise on the right bank of the stream, a range of lofty mountains, stretching away to "Hoary Head" and "Sentinel Peak," form the limit on the left.

In company with several pleasure-loving American ladies and gentlemen, I ascended this lovely stream in a commodious boat. The "stars and stripes"-magic emblems of freedom -floated in the breeze over our heads. I shall never forget my emotions as I looked up at that ægis which WASHINGTON had flung over our Republic after several years of struggles for national liberty. I could not help glancing at the mighty destinies of civilization. It led me back, through a historical vista, to Asia, the birth-place of empire and of man; the cradle of the arts and sciences; the theatre of great conflicts, reverses, and successes; the stage upon which great nations had arisen, flourished, and crumbled back to the dust from whence they sprung. I could see Empire snatching its fallen sceptre from the ruins of prostrate nations, and alternately swaying it in Eastern, Western, and Central Europe. I was insensibly led back to the battle-fields of Pharsalia and Marathon, where gigantic intellects guided the sword that swept away thousands into oblivion; where splendid destinies were nobly struggled for, and lost forever. I could trace those struggles and victories, that alternating hope and despair, of the genius of Liberty, as it wept over its bleeding votaries, until, tired of the ghastly smile and putrid corpse of monarchical protection, it spread its wings, forsook old tyrants, and sped to the lap of the New

DEPORTMENT OF NATIVES.

183

World—the newly-discovered Continent of North America. It is on our own soil, and amid our own people, that that most sublime of all human problems has been satisfactorily solved SELF-GOVERNMENT, by a people having broken the last link of the chain which bound them to the proud chariot of a perfidious ruler; by a people who enjoy the eternal, the Godgiven prerogatives of individual freedom, protection, and right. Over this great family of nations, Liberty had spread her pinions for their defense, and to raise them to the sublime position of a vast social, moral, intellectual, political, and religious fraternity. That unity had flung its glory from the eastern to. the western shores of a great continent, forming a young empire in the long obscure territory of California. And here, on a Sandwich Island river, were a few American citizens gliding along beneath the ever-glorious beacon of true empirethe "stars and stripes!"

But a

We had proceeded about two miles up the river, when we noticed a group of natives collected on the right bank. Doubtless our appearance was novel enough to them, for they stood looking at us with mingled pleasure and amazement. short time elapsed, however, before their monotony was dispelled. We gave a triple "three cheers" to our flag and the occasion, which seemed to have a magical effect on the natives; for they unwittingly and earnestly gave us a sort of semi-civilized response. Some of them laughed heartily at their own performances, and others probably at our own. There were two natives, a man and woman, who appeared extremely desirous of manifesting their profound enthusiasm in what seemed so deeply to interest our company. They distinguished themselves by taking off the only garments they wore, which they raised aloft on a long stick, and then gave us a passing recognition.

At a short distance beyond this group, we landed at the foot of a spur that led up to an enormous mass of trap rock, called by the natives Keapaweo Mountain. It has a curious cathedral-like front, of perpendicular formation, and as smooth as if it had been chiseled out by art. Its front was pierced by a