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by, which shine like silver as those of Clissura,' ,"* and on his way to Thessaly he passed through Monastir. Some years later, in 1675, George Wheler met on the hills opposite Lepanto with a settlement of shepherds, and in a short description which he gives of their mode of life as well as of their dresst one recognizes the same folk about whom Dr. Sibthorp wrote in 1794 :-"During the winter months a wandering tribe of Nomades drive their flocks from the mountains of Thessaly into the plains of Attica and Boeotia, and give some pecuniary consideration to the Pasha of Negropont and Vaivode of Athens. These people are much famed for their woollen manufactures, particularly the coats or cloaks worn by the Greek sailors."-Robert Walpole, Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey' (London, 1817, vol. i. p. 141).

The aforesaid travellers do not name the Vlachs; they speak in general terms, as do some of the Byzantin chroniclers. Gregoras, for instance (ed. Bonn, vol. i. p. 247), says: Τὰ ἐν Μακεδονία Ῥωμαίοις ὁμοροῦντα ἔθνη, Ἰλλυριοί τε δηλαδὴ καὶ Τριβαλλοὶ καὶ ̓Ακαρνάνες καὶ Θετταλοί, the latter comprising the Vlachs. Cantacuzene likewise alludes to them by saying: οἵ περὶ Θετταλίαν οἰκοῦσιν avτóvoμoi voμádes (ed. Bonn, vol. i. p. 450). Learned men as they all were, it must be presumed that they knew about the Vlachs.

These people, who call themselves Armâni, had a part of their own-at times of paramount importance-in the very tangled history of the Balkans. Beginning with the tenth century, one often hears about them from different sources, including some English, either direct or translated. Thus Benjamin of Tudela's narrative of his journey, with an oft-quoted passage on the Balachi," appeared in Purchas His Pilgrimes, ed. 1625 (vol. ii. chap. ix. p. 1441). In the same collection of travels William de Rubruquist refers in 1253 to the "Land of Assanus," and, as implied in the words as farre as Solonia," he means but the Meyán Bλaxía of the Byzantin chronicles. From this Vallachia came to London in 1427 a person called Paulus. The king

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then reigning, Henry VI., granted him an allowance on account of his being ruined by the Turks. The decree issued for this purpose distinctly points out that he is Comes de Valache, in partibus Grecia, qui de Nobile Sanguine Tractus existit (Rymer, Fœdera,' 3rd ed., vol. iv., 4th part, p. 128; vol. v., 1st part, pp. 7-8). He was probably one of those chieftains who, according to the times and extent of their powers, bore different titles, besides that of " Comes de Valache." We learn from the Cecaumeni Strategicon' that the Emperor Basile II. granted to Niculitza τὴν ἀρχὴν τῶν Βλάχων Ελλάδος (Β. Wassiliewsky and V. Jernstedt, Petersburg, 1896, later on Niketas speaks of a τοπάρχης p. 96); ruling over Great Vallachia (ed. Bonn, p. 841).

At the advent of the Turks, Great Vallachia ceased to be a principality apart, but her name, with something of a glamour about it, lingered still through the tradition of the people, as shown by an old folk-song beginning :

Κλαίγουν τἀηδόνια τῆς Βλακιᾶς καὶ τὰ πουλιὰ στὴν δύσιν.... *

and the Vlachs managed to retain their own organization and and local privileges. If during more than three centuries afterwards one meets but few records, the reason has to be sought in the fact that, on the one hand, the Vlachs were in many instances confounded with the various races around them; on the other hand, they had, as they still have, their homes on the out-of-the-way hills, in a country of no easy communications, withal far too dangerous to attract visitors for its own or its people's sake.

There came circumstances of a different nature, such as the interest for classicism, geographical and topographical researches in relation to it, the quest for old books and manuscripts-all these induced English travellers, in spite of many hardships, to venture towards those regions of Turkey On their journeys and Northern Greece. they often encountered nomad tribes of 'A Brief Account of some Travels in Hun-Vlachs ascending to the mountains or going garia, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Thessaly, down to the grassy pastures with their Austria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli,' sheep and their caravans so picturesque in London, 1673, p. 45.

tA Journey into Greece,' London, 1682,

p. 303. Vol. iii. chap. i. p. 2. This is the Latin text: "ultra Danubium versus Constantinopolim, Valachia, quæ est terra Assani, et Minor Bulgaria, usque in Solonomam."-Hurmusaki, Documente privitoare la Istoria Românilor,' Bucuresti, 1887, vol. i. pp. 265-8.

colour.

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"As we advance along the western side of the mountain, the sun becomes visible at short plain of the Mizakia with the sea beyond it, intervals, and lights up portions of the great but these views are soon shut out again by interposing clouds and rain. Just as it becomes dark, we obtain a sight of the village of Tomor or Domor in the highest habitable part of the mountain, and perceive on our right at the extremity of the long rugged slope of the mountain the Castle of Berat and the valley of the river Uzúmi."-Vol. i. pp. 350-51.

And all through his work there is such a wealth of information, of appropriate quotations from the classics, of penetrating remarks, that it is indispensable for any student of the Vlachs.

From Janina, his place of residence, Leake was in Janina when Lord Byron Leake made frequent visits to the hintergot there. From conversations they had lands, gaining thus a great insight into together and from his reading of Gibbon, Vlach life; and in his Travels in Northern the poet came to know of the peoples Greece' (which, though published in 1835, inhabiting those parts. Therefore one is in the form of diaries written between would be justified in assuming that verses 1804 and 1810) he enters into such characterizations as this:

--

"The Vlakhiotes, who, with less native acuteness than the Greeks, are endowed with more steadiness, prudence, and perseverance, are nevertheless like all republicans seldom free from intestine intrigues and divisions."-Vol. i.

p. 282.

On the approach to a Vlach village, he observes :

"The scene has an appearance of comfort and successful industry seldom seen in Greek or Turkish villages."-Vol. i. p. 300.

Of their dialect he says:

"The language of the Vlakhiote towns of Pindus differs very slightly from that of Wallachia, and contains consequently many Latin

words derived from the Latin colonists of Dacia. The Latin words are not so numerous Italian or Spanish, but the flexions and the auxiliary verbs in some of their forms are less changed than in any of the daughters of the Latin."-Vol. i. p. 280.

Leake saw a great many Vlach villages on the ranges of Pindus and Olympus; and he pursued his excursions towards the south, towards Salonica, Seres, and Mount Athos-where Dr. Hunt before him met a number of Vlachs at the monastery of Vatopedet-and towards the Albanian region of Tomor. In the description of this last place his unaffected style does not fail also to convey that sense of seclusion and

* Ed. 1776-88, vol. vi. chaps. Ix. and Ixi.

He calls them "Wallachian-Greeks." It was at Easter, 1801. See Robert Walpole's Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey,' vol. i. p. 199.

like

pensive o'er his scattered flock, The little shepherd in his white capote Doth lean his boyish form along the rock....* allude to the Vlach shepherd.

For a more detailed account of the journey Byron refers to his fellow-traveller J. C. Hobhouse. The latter was acquainted with Pouqueville's work, Voyage en Morée, à Constantinople,' &c., Paris, 1805. It was perhaps for this reason that he left aside the Vlach districts already described by the French author, and he only casually mentioned Metzovo, the village of Malacassi, and also the route to Zagori, which, he says, is taken by the merchants travelling into Wallachia as being more secure than that which leads through the plains of Thessaly by Larissa" ( A Journey through Albania and other Provinces of Turkey in Europe and Asia to Constantinople,' London, 1813, p. 62).

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Shortly after Hobhouse we have the Rev. Thos. Smart Hughes (who published in 1820 Travels in Sicily, Greece, and Albania') and Henry Holland. Both are much impressed by the Vlachs and their caravans, the latter dwelling with more length on them. After an interesting description of Metzovo and some historical considerations, Holland gives what seems a very judicious report:

"The insulation and mode of life have tended to preserve them, in great measure, separated as a people; and the Wallachian towns and villages

* Childe Harold's Pilgrimage,' canto ii.

stanza lii.

of Pindus, which are very numerous in those parts of the chain between Albania and Thessaly, have all a distinct character, which probably has continued for centuries. The Vlachi are a hardy and active people, more regular, less ferocious in their habits than the Albanians, to whom they are not allied in their origin, and but little as it appears in later connexion.

"It may further be remarked that there is an air of active industry, neatness, and good order in these towns, which, while it distinguishes them from all others in the south of Turkey, affords a singular contrast to the wild and rugged scenery by which they are surrounded.". Travels in the Ionian Isles, Albania, Thessaly, Macedonia,' &c., London, 1815, p. 226.

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To the same period belongs Edward Lear's Journals of a Landscape Painter Albania.' It has to be mentioned especially for the illustrations, which he himself contributed.

Henry Tozer relates having seen the Vlachs in their summer encampments at the heights between Ipek and Prizrend; and he adds: "These families are completely nomad, having no settled habitation."*

Such roaming communities are to be found in many other places, particularly towards the Adriatic coast, where hardly any traveller has been to seek them.

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In 1838 appeared' The Spirit of the East,' by D. Urquhart. A special interest attaches to this, in his time, most influential political author. A Roumanian statesman and writer of note, I. Ghica, for many years representative to the Court of St. James, knew him well. In a letter he portrays him as a young man of short stature, delicate complexion, with pale face, long A limited region of Albania was visited in golden hair over his back, blue piercing 1860 by Mary Adelaide Walker, who, eyes" and he further speaks of Ur- passing near Coritza, heard the tinkling quhart's noble character, of his ardour in bells of the flocks, and caught a sight of espousing the great causes for freedom. their shepherds in sheepskin cloaks Indeed, his Spirit of the East' breathes and caps ('Through Macedonia to the in a large degree the tumultuous, fiery Albanian Lakes,' London, 1864, p. 249). atmosphere of the Greek revolution. He On her way to Coritza she was present also deals in it with chiefs like Catchiandoni at a Vlach wedding ceremony, of which she and Tchionga, both of the Vlach race, or, renders a clear account. In describing as Urquhart puts it, of these hardy further the Bulgarian dresses she refers to mountaineers, nowhere fixed, but always a specimen worn by "the women from to be found where the wolves have dens Vlacho-Clissura (ibid., pp. 141-6). It is and eagles nests" (vol. i. p. 122). surely a mistake; in Vlacho-Clissura, as shown by the name itself, no Bulgarian women are to be found. With regard to the town of Monastir, she writes :

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In some of these travellers' accounts one has to look carefully for the particular passages relating to our subject, as they are intermixed with various other matters.

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Among the Christian population of Monastir Robert Curzon, for instance, looking down the Vlachs rank the highest for commercial from the Meteora monasteries at the beauti-enterprise, industry, and intelligence."—Ib., p. 137. ful prospect stretched before him, and without any further reference, writes:

"The whole of this region is inhabited by a race of different origin from the real Albanians : they speak the Wallachian language, and are said to be extremely barbarous and ignorant."'Visits to Monasteries in the Levant,' London, 1849, p. 294.

Of course, the author reports only the information conveyed to him, but still it is curious that he did not care to comment on it. His follower, George Ferguson Bowen, whose purpose was in a way to complete the Visits to Monasteries in the Levant,'t gives, on the contrary, a sym

Scrisori ale lui I. Ghica către V. Alexandri,' Bucuresti, p. 144.

+Mount Athos, Thessaly, and Epirus,' London, See Introductory Remarks, chap. i. p. 3.

1852.

G. M. Mackenzie and A. P. Irby in a book published a few years latert fully agree on this point with the preceding author.

or

On the whole, English travellers dwell mostly on the nomadic life of the Vlachs and its external aspect, either because it appealed to them as more unusual because they came into contact with it on their journeying to Greece. There is, however, another section of these people represented by numerous well-to-do boroughs, scattered on the mountains. Above all in

Researches in the Highlands of Turkey,' London, 1869, vol. i. p. 352. See also his footnotes concerning the Vlachs in Finlay's History of Greece,' ed. 1877, Oxford, based as they are on a sound, personal knowledge.

tTravels in the Slavonic Provinces of Turkey-in-Europe,' London, 1867, p. 74.

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