FOR DOWNRIGHT HEALTHY EXCITEMENT, WE RECOMMEND A DAY'S HUNTING IN A GALE OF WIND. A SHILLINGSWORTH OF CHARITY. THE loss of poor MONS. JULLIEN, the MoNs who had for many years so often been in labour for us, is a loss which we can none of us expect to see replaced, and therefore none of us can be likely to forget. M. JULLIEN was one of the few public entertainers of whom it could be said that he was really entertaining. In whatever he attempted he did his best to please, and in doing so, he was but seldom unsuccessful, If we have ever laughed at him we ever have admired him, for the reason that so many of his qualities were admirable. He was not one of those who "keep the word of promise to the ear and break it to the hope." His promises were always fulfilled in his performances, and in whatever he might pledge himself he never broke faith with the public. He never let his singers be "indisposed" to sing, nor did his instrumentalists ever fail in "keeping time"-in their appearance in the orchestra. As a composer, M. JULLIEN was well and widely known, and in his peculiar walk not better known than trusted to. Dance music was his forte, and there are few piano-players who have not his music literally at their fingers' ends. We should like to know the number of agree: able flirtations to which his British Army Quadrilles have given birth; while the marriages effected through his lovely Olga Waltz must have occasioned a considerable effect upon the Census. THE "ENTENTE CORDIALE. We do not know whether this celebrated Anglo-French "Cordiale" is likely to be affected much by the remission of the duties on French wines and spirits. That measure being so extremely liberal, we should think that the consumption was likely to become considerably greater. From the quotations we have seen in the French and English papers, there seems to be a great improvement, also, in the strength and purity of this" Cordiale." Not only is it stronger in spirit, but it is likewise freer from that slight tendency to acidity, which, at the smallest turn of politics, was apt to vitiate all its good qualities, and to render that which was intended to be sweet and comforting to the taste of both countries, extremely disagreeable, and oftentimes offensive, to those, no matter whether Englishmen or Frenchmen, who happened to have the "Cordiale" for the moment on their lips. The exchange and interchange being now so much freer, it is to be hoped that the "Entente Cordiale" will not linger only on the lips, but will soon reach the hearts of both England and France. to popularise good music than any other popular purveyor of sweet sounds. Until M. JULLIEN came to them, the shilling-paying public had never heard good music; or at least, if they had heard it, they had never rightly listened to it. A symphony was seldom played to them "twenty years ago; " and, if played, was seldom heard without its being hissed. But the public are not now such geese as they were then. Thanks mainly to their JULLIEN, their hearing has improved, and they can listen to good music without finding their ears bored by it. We repeat, then, what we said. M. JULLIEN has done much for the shilling-paying public. In return, will not that public do a little for the family M. JULLIEN has left? A SHILLING SUBSCRIPTION LIST is opened, to swell in a small way the JULLIEN FUND for their relief. Those who can't give more, need never be ashamed of putting down their shilling; and the sum would in this instance be most suitably appropriate. As pleaser of the public, it was to the Shillingites that JULLIEN most appealed; and we may therefore for his family appeal fitly to the Shillingites. If every one in England to whom "the Mons" has given a good shillingsworth of music were now, in return to give a shilling to his memory, the Jullien Relief like to get their moneysworth, let every one who does so bear this fact Fund would be sensibly increased. And as the Shillingites in general in mind, that a shillingsworth of charity is in truth a "Splendid Shilling "s-worth. An Ill Wind. As caterer of concerts M. JULLIEN was unsparing both of person and of purse, being as lavish of exertion as he was also of expense. Indeed we think it may be said without untruth, that he mainly lost his life through his efforts as conductor, and his strong reluctance to those ill winds which blow no one any good. It arose from certain THE breeze which has arisen in St. George's in the East is one of disappoint the public. Over-work and over-anxiousness to recover his lost credit (a loss occasioned far more by misfortune than by fault) persons giving themselves airs, and, as might have been supposed, brought on an affliction from which he never rallied: and his brain these airs soon led to blows. People make complaints about a Nor' first, then his body, gave way beneath the stroke. Nor'-Easter as being the most aggravating wind that ever blows; but in future, when we wish to speak of an ill wind, we shall say that it's as bad as a St. George's-in-the-Easter. By his death "his widow and family are left totally unprovided for." This we state on the authority of men who know the fact, and who, knowing it, have given it the attestation of their signatures, each appended to a document called legally a cheque. They moreover have put forth in the Times and other Papers : "An Appeal to the generosity of the British Public, to whose amusements MONSIEUR JULLIEN has diligently and faithfully administered for upwards of twenty years." And that this Appeal may universally, be read, we call the world's attention to it in our world-pervading print. We moreover would invite all those who can afford it to put their names down on the list which is affixed to the Appeal, and hand their cheques and guineas to the Treasurers of the fund. But without stopping the charity of the guinea-paying_public, may THE ART OF CONVERSATION. hollow, was recently made by a misogynist. He said, Men talk, but A REMARK, apparently neat, but upon examination exceedingly with women it is the converse.-The Hermit of the Haymarket. A QUESTION FOR PHILOLOGISTS. utter-most parts of the Earth are inhabited solely by women? PHILOSOPHERS are raising the impertinent demand whether the we not appeal, too, to the shilling-paying public? M. JULLIEN has WONDERFUL METAMORPHOSIS.-A teetotaller was seen, a day or done much for the shilling-paying public. M. JULLIEN has done more two ago, to turn into a public-house! VOL. XXXVIII. PUNCH'S BOOK OF BRITISH COSTUMES. CHAPTER IX.-THE EARLY NORMAN PERIOD. of the way in which the Normans wore their hair, whereat his Majesty impatiently exclaimed, "There, you may cut it!" In telling us this anecdote, BOB WACE, the Norman poet, uses the expression "tout rez et tondu," which may be literally rendered by the words "all shaven and shorn:" a phrase that, every baby knows, THE brief interval between occurs in one of the most ancient of our descriptive ballads. The the out-kicking of the words, our readers may remember, are applied there to a priest; and Danes and the incoming their usage may be taken as confirmatory evidence that the Normans of the Normans, the cos- in their tonsure had a priestly cut about them. How far they resembled tume of the English, of the old ecclesiastic, who performed the marriage service in the ballad course, underwent some we have mentioned, is a point which we suggest to men of strong change; for when was imaginations, as being a fit problem to exercise their thoughts. For fashion ever for a single their assistance in the matter we refer them to the figures pictured in year immutable? Coming the Bayeux tapestry, and to the portrait of the priest as he appears in events often throw their our edition; wherein the artist has depicted him in a dress which is a shadows out before them; cross between a beadle's and a bishop's. In this engraving (which we and before the Normans fancy must be really very rare, for it appears to bear the thumb-marks landed their shadows had of several generations) "y maydenne all forlorne" is most lugubrious preceded them, and the in look, and seems to have been taken to what cockneys call the English in their habits had "halter" as reluctantly as though she had been taken to be hung. aped them to a shade. With an attention to the details which smacks of the Dutch school, Fathers now-a-days com- the maid is represented with her milk-pail in her hand; while slightly plain that their children in the background is a portrait of her cow, whose horn is "crumpled dress like foreigners, and it with a power which a Præ-Raffaelite might envy, and a RUSKIN write must be confessed that in a page about in notes of admiration of its conscientious handling" the time of the Confessor and its "gigantic strength of truth." there was as much reason for a similar complaint. Before the Frenchmen came themselves their manners had invaded us, and we were slaves to them in fashion, although not yet so in fact. For this we have the evidence of WILLIAM OF MALMESBURY, who, contemptuous of orthography, as is his lordly namesake, observes: "Inne EDWARDE's rane ye Englishe dyd Frenchifye ymselves both inne manneres and costumes, and made ymselves redickulouse bye their phantastick fashiones, whiche they dyd wear a shortere tunick and eke a shavenne chyn, and dyd clippe their haire allsoe as they dyd clippe their speache." That men should "make themselves ridiculous" by wearing shaven chins, is an idea to which our beard-movers have lately given countenance, albeit Englishmen in general have long set their face against it. The early Normans were, however, great users of the razor; and besides shaving their chins, and upper lips, and cheeks, they actually shaved the back part of their heads; a fashion which they borrowed from the swells of Aquitaine. but This we learn not only from PARTY. *Of course every school-girl knows that this tapestry is called so from its being kept at Bayeux; and is a piece of coloured worsted work, somewhat like a sampler, measuring in length 212 feet. It is said to have been worked by the Conqueror's wife, MATILDA, who was called from her great industry in working it, the Conqueress, the enemy she triumphed over being truly worsted. How long she was doing it, we must let our lady readers have the privilege to guess. Although the fact is not so stated, one might really almost think she had the help of Briareus in accomplishing her task; for one had need have the assistance of a hundred hands, to work so great a quantity as above two hundred feet. THIS TRULY INTERESTING PICTURE IS A VALUABLE ILLUSTRATION OF THE ECCLE- The civil costume of the Normans (whom silly sticklers for good grammar have called otherwise the Normen) consisted of a cloak, a shirt, and a pair of drawers; together with a tunic which they wore rather short, and a pair of stockings, which they wore rather long. One writer calls these stockings "panntaloons with feet to them;" and we may guess from his so doing, that the nobles chiefly wore them, for pantaloons have never been in favour much with clowns. Their Norman name was "chaussés," and we are not aware of their having any other although seeing that the English took afterwards to wearing them, it is naturally likely that they Anglicised the name. But whether, with true British contempt for foreign accents, they called the chaussés chosses," or "chawsers" or "chowses," with all our wisdom we must own ourselves unable to decide. To keep their heads warm, which considering how they shaved them, Was much needed, the civilians wore a flat round cap resembling a Scotch bonnet. This, however, was not their invariable head-dress, for they sometimes wore a hood, or coif, to serve as their coiffure. Combined with their bald-patedness, these monks-hoods must have given them a clerical appearance, and the way they aped the priests was really moukish, if not monkeyish. For their chaussure they wore shoes, over their chaussés. But some. times their long stockings were stuck into short boots, which for aught we know, resembled our plebeian highlow. These short boots have been long familiar to our memory, from the fact that we remember reading when at school (having recently refreshed our remembrance on the matter) that ROBERT, Duke of Normandy, the Conqueror's eldest son, was nicknamed Gambaron, or "Shortshanks," and Court. hose, which meant "Short-boots." His namesake, ROBERT WACE, with shorte hosen and hadde shorte boottes to bootte." To our mind "he hadde shorte legges and large bones, hence was he bootedde there is nothing very funny in these nicknames; but we mention them to show that our ancestors at times were just as rude as their descendants, in their remarks on people's personal disfigurements and dress. The phrase "bootted with shorte hosen" might lead one to suppose that the Normans wore no stockings underneath their chaussés, and that they thrust their ten toes naked into their boots. This, however, we are not at liberty to guess; for stockings, we have seen, were in use among the Saxons, and the Normans, who were more refined, must certainly have ROBERT SHORTSHANKS, DUKE OF FROM MR. PUNCH'S COLLECTION OF HISTORICAL PORTRAITS. worn them. Indeed several quotations might easily be made which would serve to satisfy the reader of the fact; but reading much bad spelling is a thing to be avoided, as it may lead to imitation, perchance, of its defects. Taking it for granted, then, that they wore stockings, there remain to be considered two most momentous ques NORMANDY. tions; namely, whether or no they commonly wore garters with their stockings, and whether, if they did, they gartered under or above the knee. Antiquarians have been long in the dark upon these points; but we rejoice that our exhaustless industry and patience at length enable us to throw a flood of light upon the subject, and to dissipate the clouds of doubt which have obscured it. By our almost superhuman labour of research, we have brought to view a MS., which, so far as we can see, has never before been even heard of, and which must excite the wonder and delight of the savants. Since we are never prone to keep our good things to ourselves, as is proved by the weekly publication of our jokes, we have now the greatest willingness in parting with our property, and putting before the public that which has been hitherto a quite private possession. The manuscript appears to have been written by a lawyer, at least we judge so, partly from its being writ in rhyme (for all our poets nearly have begun by being lawyers), and partly from the almost undecipherable penmanship, which is a failing common to most men in that profession. Our conjecture too is strengthened by the MS. being written in bad Anglo-Norman French, in which our ancient legal documents were commonly composed. But not to keep our readers longer from their treat, be it known to all men that, so far as our compositor is able to make out, he holds himself in readiness to make an affidavit that what is here subjoined, is a true copy of the lines: "SIRE.-So many natural bonds, so many glorious reminiscences unite Savoy to France, that she trembled with happiness when the august word of your Majesty gave the hope to our country that she was about to be called to make part of the great French family with the assent of its legitimate Sovereign." Trembled with happiness!-how false! how bombastic! how fulsome! Can there be a doubt that creatures who are capable of this slaver are unfit to remain subjects of VICTOR EMMANUEL, and that they tend to servitude by a natural impulse. Their address to the EMPRESS affords still stronger proof of their essentially French disposition. What can exceed the peculiar politeness of the following specimen of adulation: "MADAME-Will your Majesty allow those who will soon be your new subjects to express to you, on this day, so momentous for them, all the sentiments that animate them? Savoy is an affectionate land, Madame; it loves its Princes." We cannot conceive anybody worthy to be called an Englishman voluntarily renouncing his QUEEN, and offering himself to become the subject of any other sovereign. But some Englishmen are unworthy of their name; an English traitor is a conceivable monster. Yet even the basest and most degraded Briton would never, in throwing himself at the feet of another lady than HER MAJESTY, have the face to say, "England is an affectionate land, Madame; it loves its Princes." The idea of being spurned by the foot that he was licking, would deter him from the utterance of such a piece of impudent servility. He would be conscious of the self-irony of his language. That is just what the Savoyard deputies were unconscious of; and such unconsciousness is eminently French. Therefore, they unblushingly tell EUGENIE that 'Savoy loves its Princes ;" and then they proceed : " : "How could it fail not dearly to love you, endowed with so much grace and virtue?" How did these gentlemen fail to love the KING OF SARDINIA? Oh! they have not failed to love him; they only forsake him. So they will never fail to love their new mistress; and they tell her-how prettily and affectionately!— "Savoy hopes that you will also love it, and that you will soon give a precious proof thereof by showing yourself among us." " These people were clearly born to kiss hands. Stooping, no doubt, with appropriate action, they now thus address the infant Prince Imperial: our children' will be as devoted to you as we are to the EMPEROR, your glorious "And you, Monseigneur, you who are destined to continue so much greatness father. As soon as we return to our mountains we will make them ring with the shout of Vive l'Empereur; Vive le Prince Impérial !'" Dishonoured mountains! The insensibility of these men to the absurdity of the above pompous apostrophe to a small boy is also perfectly national; that is perfectly consonant with French ideas. The the ridiculousness of their fawning on the Imperial little man. grossness of their cringing to the Imperial great man is paralleled by are familiar with this style of demeanour as exhibited, in begging, by dirty fellows in high-crowned hats, with white mice and a hurdy-gurdy. Some of these truly crawling creatures appear to have taken their mice and music to the Tuileries. We LORD JOHN RUSSELL, the other evening, ran into the House of Commons, with a train of supporters at his heels, just in time to secure the discussion of his Reform Bill by saving the House from being counted out. The noble Lord on that occasion may consider himself to have had a run of good luck. Miss Stout. "WELL NOW, DEAR, I CALL IT CHARMING, AND SHALL MOST CERTAINLY HAVE ONE MYSELF!" HIGH WATER AND LOW WIT. OUR readers are aware, if they have read the papers, that there was a remarkably high tide in the Thames the other day. Among the damages it did, it occasioned some small injury to the Royal property, that is to say, it caused sad havoc to be made with the Queen's English. A wit in Lambeth said that there was quite a run upon the banks, and avowed his expectation that one of them would break; whereat a byestander remarked, that if such should prove the case, he should wish great Father Thames were a little farther off, or he for one might not be able to keep his head above water. A wag at Chelsea took a similar advantage of the circumstance by observing that his Highness (meaning Father Thames) was not half so high then as he Let them dwell upon thy weakness, From all critics ask suggestion, Cut thee, carve thee, stuff or starve thee; Poor little Bill! So he'll carry through his darling, 66 would be in the summer-time; and this remark was capped by another funny fellow, who, clapping his right forefinger against his nasal organ, exclaimed, with exquisite facetiousness, Ah! that's true encugh, I nose it! A climax to the comicality was, however, put by a punster, who was waiting on the steam-boat pier at Westminster, and who observed that Father Thames, who was usually so untidy, was cutting quite a swell, for the high tide made the river look quite tidy to the eye, in fact, he might remark that Father Thames looked quite eye-tidy. STREET NOMENCLATURE.-Notice is hereby given, that, by an order of the Central Board of Works, the street in the Strand hitherto known as Savoy Street, is henceforth to be called Petty France. |