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PART I.

A TOUR TO SHEERAZ.

CHAPTER I.

Voyage to Bushire-Gulf of Persia-Views-Shimals-Shurqees— Town of Bushire-Hindoo Images-Manuscripts, &c.

ON

N Saturday the 10th of April, 1802, I embarked on board the Shrewsbury, a vessel of three hundred tons burden, bound for the Gulf of Persia. The best season for performing this voyage, is from the commencement of October to the middle of March; we were therefore too late, and were in consequence driven some degrees to the southward before we met with a fair wind.

On the 25th, however, we came within sight of land, and on the 26th entered the Gulf of Persia. Our scene was now entirely changed; the eye, which had been accustomed to behold a vast expanse of water, was now gratified with a prospect of lofty hills and numerous islands.

Soon after our entrance into the gulf, we suffered greatly from a severe gale of wind, called a Shimal, from the wind blowing from the north-west. These Shimals come on very suddenly; they usually last from two to five days, during which time hardly a cloud is to be seen, although the wind rages with uncommon violence.

B

The generality of gulfs, I believe, have two prevailing winds, the one fair, the other foul. A natural and obvious reason may be given for this circumstance in the Gulf of Persia. The high and stupendous mountains which skirt the shore, both on the Arabian and Persian coast, effectually prevent the wind from extending to the sea; so that, in fact, this gulf may be compared to a large funnel, which will only admit the wind to blow directly up or down. The other prevailing wind is called Shurqee, coming from the south-east; the chances are said to be, by experienced seamen, three to two in favour of the Shimal. The Shurqee is usually preceded by a very heavy dew, which is quite the reverse with the Shimal. After a most tedious passage, during which we experienced four violent Shimals, and once run on a sunken rock, we arrived, on the 22d of May, at Bushire.

This town is situate on a narrow neck of land, a very little above the level of the sea, and is frequently, from the rise of the tides, an island. The houses are mean, low, and small, being chiefly constructed with mud, or with a white and soft kind of stone, which adds very little to the respectability of their appearance. Bushire is surrounded by a wall, with a few bastions, which might possibly be a safeguard against the predatory incursions of horse. There are three Suraes, for the accommodation of merchants, out of repair, and old: indeed the only building of any note belongs to Mehdee Ulee Khan, the British resident at this place. The Company have had a factory here for more than fifty years; but I do not believe their trade to have been particularly advantageous. The broad cloth worn by the Persians is imported from France by the way of Russia; and, notwithstanding the expense of land carriage, they procure it cheaper than that which they purchase from the East India Company.*

* Dr. Fryer mentions, that he bought cloth in Persia cheaper than it is sold in England. Travels into Persia, p. 264. French cloth is also brought into Persia by way of Constantinople.

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