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ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL.

JUNE 30, 1842.

PRICE lad.

whom Lanfranc, the then archbishop, immediately restored all those lands he had THE see of Rochester is, except Canterbury, recovered from Odo. This recovery was at once the most ancient and the smallest in effected in a solemn assembly held at PenenEngland. It was established in 600 by den-heath. Gundulph removed the secular Ethelbert, king of Kent, together with a canons from the priory of St. Andrew, and priory of secular canons, in honour of St. appointed in their stead Benedictine monks, Andrew, to whose powerful intercession were to whom he conveyed the greater part of the ascribed many signal instances of divine estates belonging to his see. Out of those favour and various miracles. It appears manors, however, which he had assigned to that the impulse to "build a church to God" the monks, he reserved to himself and sucwas given to the king by Augustine, who cessors a right to certain articles of provision was the first archbishop of Canterbury. which were to be rendered annually on St. When the cathedral was founded in the year Andrew's day, under the name of a xenium 604, Augustine appointed to the office of (from evov, a present given in token of hosbishop Justus, a learned and worthy man, pitality). The following translation, in an who had been sent from Rome to aid in con- abstract form, of the original record concernverting the Saxons to Christianity. Ninety- ing this provision, may be interesting. It three bishops, many of them eminent for has been copied into the Registrum Rofpiety and ability, have successively held the fense, of which more will be said presently. see of Rochester from the above period." I, Gundulph, do appoint that every Many and extensive gifts were bestowed upon this church in after-times; yet, by the troubles which followed in the Danish wars, it was stripped of almost all of them; and at the time of the conquest it was in such a state of poverty, that divine worship was entirely neglected in it, and there remained in it only five secular priests, who had not sufficient for their maintenance. Many of the possessions belonging to the see of Rochester had come into the hands of the Conqueror at his accession to the crown, most of which he gave to his half-brother Odo; and the see itself, neglected by its primate, seemed fast verging to dissolution. Soon after this, Gundulph, a monk of the royal abbey of Bec, near Rouen, in Normandy, was elected bishop; to

VOL. XII.NO. CCCLI.

year, at the celebration of the feast of St. Andrew the apostle, there be reserved to me and my successors, out of those estates which I have assigned for the maintenance of the monks, such a xenium as is here specifiedthat is to say, from Woldham and from Frindsbury, and from Denton, and from Southfleet, and from Stoke, sixteen hogs cured for bacon, thirty geese, three hundred fowls, a thousand lampreys, a thousand eggs four salmon, and sixty bundles of furze; but half the fish and eggs to be the monks' portion; and from Lamhea (Lambeth) a thousand lampreys for the use of the monks; also from Hadenham, twenty shillings-worth of fish, to be carried to their cellar. But, if it should happen, contrary to my wishes, that I, or any of my successors, shall be absent from the feast,

[London: Joseph Rogerson, 24, Norfolk-street, Strand.]

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then, in God's name and my own, I order | tower rising from the intersection of the nave that the whole xenium be carried to the hall of St. Andrew; and there, at the discretion of the prior and brethren of the church, be distributed to the strangers and poor, in honour of the festival." The monks afterwards disputed, with much resoluteness, the right of the bishops to the xenium; but their differences were adjusted by the bishops consenting to receive a composition in money instead of the above-named provisions. From the conquest to the reign of Henry VIII. almost every king granted some liberties and privileges, both to the bishop of Rochester and to the prior of the convent; each confirmed, likewise, those granted by his prede

cessors.

Bishop Gundulph had the happiness of nearly completing his own church, in which he was more fortunate than many of the Norman prelates; and the event is recorded in the following words in the Textus Roffensis, hereafter described-" The church of Andrew, almost demolished by age, entirely new, as it is seen at this day, built." [Gundulph.] From the remains of this building, still apparent in the nave and west front, we may readily imagine that it must have been both splendid and large. Finished, however, completely, it was not until some years after his death, which occurred in March, 1107-8; nor was the whole structure solemnly dedicated until ascension-day, 1130, when, as the Saxon chronicle informs us, it was performed in the presence of the king (Henry I.) by Corboyl, archbishop of Canterbury, assisted by eleven English and two Norman bishops. This Gundulph is said to have been confessor to Matilda, Henry's queen; and, if fame does not exalt him for his learning, yet he seems to have been an architect of no ordinary character. In the time of the Conqueror he was employed to construct the White-tower in the Tower of London; and, in the reigns of his two immediate successors, he built the greatest part of the cathedral and castle at Rochester, and founded a nunnery for Benedictines at West Malling in Kent. He was interred in his robes as bishop before the altar of the crucifix, which was always raised at the intersection of the cross which divided the nave from the choir. His festival was celebrated by the monks with great splendour.

The cathedral of Rochester is on the south side of the High-street, the castle lying to the west; the walls of the precincts run parallel with the castle ditch. The form of it is that of a double cross; and it consists of a nave and aisles, two transepts, and a choir with a * See Hasted's History of Kent; Beauties of Eng

land and Wales.

and west transept. This building contains specimens of the architecture of at least four distinct periods. The nave and west front, with a few exceptions, were the work of Gundulph: the large bell-tower which stands between the transept on the north side still bears his name. Subsequently to the fire in 1179, the north side of the west transept was rebuilt by the monks, Richard de Eastgate and Thomas de Mepeham; and the south side by the monk Richard de Waledene, about the beginning of the following century. The choir and upper transept were built in the reign of king John and Henry III., by the sacrist William de Hoo, with the produce of the oblations made at the shrine of St. William. The length of the nave, from the west door to the steps of the choir, is one hundred and fifty feet; at the entrance of the choir is the lower or great cross aisle, otherwise called the western transept, the length of which is one hundred and twenty-two feet; from the steps of the choir to the east end of the church is one hundred and fifty-six feet: at the upper end of the choir is another cross aisle (or the eastern transept), of the length of ninety feet. At the west end of the south aisle, under a large arch, is the entrance to the chapel of St. Mary, in which, until within these few years, early prayers were used to be read: this structure is of much more recent date than the other part of the cathedral, and would probably be referred correctly to the reign of Henry VII. The bishop's consistory court is held in this chapel. The roof of the nave, from the west end to the first cross aisle, is flat at the top, as it is likewise under the great steeple; but all the other parts, viz., the four cross aisles, the choir, and those on each side of it, except the lower south aisle, which was never finished, are handsomely vaulted with stone groinings.

In 1827, the dean and chapter resolved to commence extensive repairs, and carried this resolution into effect by funds supplied wholly from their own body; employing as their architect Mr. Cottingham, the results of whose labours are to be seen in the judicious restoration of the several architectural peculiarities of the cathedral.

The west entrance of this church, one of the most perfect specimens of early AngloNorman architecture, is strikingly rich in its decorations. The principal doorway opens in the centre under a beautifully recessed semicircular arch, consisting of a variety of mouldings, supported by three entire columns, and a semi-column on each side. The capitals are composed of wreathed foliage, from which proceed the heads of birds

and other animals. In the upper part of the doorway the faces of the twelve apostles are sculptured; and in a space above is a representation of the Saviour seated, with a book open in one hand, and the other raised as in the act of benediction; and on each side is an angel inclining towards him, together with the symbols of the evangelists. Figures of this kind, it would seem, were anciently placed on the porch or entrance of the church as a security against the influence of evil spirits. This front had formerly (as it would appear from certain representations taken in the beginning of the past century) four octagonal towers, which rose above the roof to the height of two stories of small arches, and terminated in pyramids, only one of which, that nearest the centre, is now standing. All the other parts of the outside of the cathedral must be considered as extremely plain, if not altogether destitute of ornament, after beholding the richly ornamented west front.

From the west door is a descent of several steps to the nave (in consequence of the accumulation of the earth at the base of the western front), the first five columns of which on each side, and half of the sixth, are in the massive Norman style, supporting semicircular arches, decorated with zig-zag mouldings, and having plain fluted capitals. Above the arches sustained on these columns is a second story of arches, corresponding both in size and ornament. Beneath these arches is the triforium or gallery, which communicates with the circular stair-cases in the angles of the west front. A very fine open timber roof represents angels bearing shields of arms; besides those of the bishopric, the priory, and the city of Rochester, are the arms of the priory of Christchurch, and of the archbishopric of Canterbury. The great tower, rising from the intersection of the nave with the west transept, is sustained by four obtusely pointed arches resting on solid masonry: a low octagonal spire, which had been rebuilt in 1749, has since been removed. The west transept is built in the pointed style; but, from having been erected at different periods, the architecture is not uniform. On the east side of this transept is a small door, which opens into a strong close room, with only one small window, well secured an apartment intended for the safe custody of the valuables which belonged to the altars in this part of the cathedral.

The choir, which is ascended from the nave by a flight of ten steps, leading through a plain arch in an unornamented stone screen, is six hundred years old, being first used at the consecration of Henry de Sandford, in 1227. It is ornamented, as well as other parts of the church, with small pillars of Petworth marble,

with plain capitals and fillets round the middle, by which they are united to the contiguous piers. From the entrance of the choir to its eastern extremity, the style of the building has an uniform character; it is neat, lofty, and solid, though not heavy. The northern part is denominated the chapel of St. William, a saint whose repute brought such considerable profit to this priory as to raise it from a state of poverty to affluence and riches. A large stone chest, much defaced, is all that remains of his shrine. The choir was newly paved and pewed about the year 1743, when stalls for the dean and chapter, a throne for the bishop (the latter being rebuilt by bishop Wilcox), and an altar-piece, were added; all of them neat, but not entitled to any higher commendation, and certainly ill suited to the general character of the edifice, which, if not very fine, is very venerable. In the centre of the altar-piece is a painting by West, of the angel appearing to the shepherds. The altar, as in other churches in the Romish days, was placed at a distance from the east wall; and its exact situation may yet be ascertained from the triple stone seat under the third window in the south wall. On the front of this seat are the arms of the see of Rochester, of Christchurch, Canterbury, and, as supposed, of the priory of Rochester: beneath these shields were formerly the representations of three bishops, with mitres and croziers, and this devout sentiment in ancient characters :

O. Altitudo divinaq Sapiencie et Sciencie Dei quam incomprehensibilia Sunt Judicia ejus et investigales vie ejus. At the south-east corner of the opposite cross-aisle is an arched doorway, richly carved and ornamented with a variety of figures, which formerly led to the chapter-house of the priory. This door-way has been injudiciously walled up to the size of a common square-headed architrave door, inserted in the centre. The sculpture is very rich, and is continued from the receding base of the doorway on each side over the whole front: it consists of the finest specimen of canopied niches, with effigies, to be seen in England. Detached recesses rise above each other, and contain figures, of which the lowest are supposed to represent king Henry I. and his queen Matilda; while, above, on each side, are bishops Gundulph, Ernulf, and others. Over the effigies of these bishops are represented cherubim and seraphim glorifying Christ, whose figure is sculptured standing beneath a canopy on the apex of the arch.

The chapter-house (which contains the library) is entered by this door-way, and is a long room running parallel with the south side of the choir. The books are contained in presses,

occupying the north side of the chapter-room; and I may mention an excellent regulation adopted for keeping up and increasing this library-that every new dean and prebendary shall, on admission, contribute a certain sum towards the increase of the library; a good exchange for the entertainment which it was formerly customary to make on that occasion. In this library is that well-known and curious MS. called the Textus Roffensis, compiled chiefly by bishop Ernulfus in the twelfth century, which was published by Thomas Hearne, from a copy in the Surrenden library. During the troubles in the seventeenth century, this MS. was conveyed into private hands, nor could the dean and chapter, after the restoration, for two years discover where it was; and at last they were obliged to solicit the court of Chancery for a decree to recover it. Since which they have been once more in great danger of being deprived of it; for Dr. Harris, having borrowed it for the use of his intended history of this county, sent up to London by water, and the vessel being by the badness of the weather capsized, this MS. lay for some hours under water before it was discovered, which has somewhat damaged it. There is also another ancient MS. here, entitled Costumale Roffense, thought by some to be more ancient than the other. Great part of this MS. has been published by Mr. Thorpe, in a volume under that title*. The latter work contains many curious particulars relative to the ancient tenures, services, rents, &c. of the manors within this diocese, which belonged to the priory; together with the valuation of the Peter pence payable to the popes from the cathedral churches in England.

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The length of the cathedral from east to west is three hundred and six feet; and the breadth along the greater of the transepts (the west) is one hundred and twenty-two feet, and along the smaller ninety feet. The nave and side-aisles together are seventy-five feet in breadth; the nave only, between the columns, being thirty-three feet broad, and the choir the same. The width of the west front is ninety-four feet; the height of the great tower, one hundred and fifty-six feet.

The crypt, which is under the buildings of the choir eastward of the great transept, is a fine specimen of the early English style: the roof is plainly groined, and in that

The following are the titles of both these books :"An Historical Account of that venerable monument

of antiquity, the Textus Roffensis; including memoirs of the learned Saxonists, Mr. William Elstob and his sister, &c. By Samuel Pegge, M.A." "Costumale Roffense, from the original manuscript in the archives

of the dean and chapter of Rochester; to which are added memorials of that cathedral church, &c. By John Thorpe, Esq., M.A., F.S.A."

part of it which extends under the north aisle, the architecture is scarcely distinguishable from the Norman style. It is not meant that it was of the Norman age; because "a careful comparison between it and the superstructure (says an authority in matters of antiquarian taste) will convince any intelligent observer that both were the work of the same architect." The same writer adds, that "the doors which open into the crypt from without are under pointed arches, as are the windows through which it was lighted: the latter are divided by mullions, with ramified heads; and, before they were stopped up, were capacious enough to transmit sufficient light for the service and ceremonies of nine altars that formerly stood here. Some small remains of painting may still be discovered in that part of the crypt below St. William's chapel. In a circle is a representation of a vessel sailing, with large fish in the water in front; and, on one side, the upper part of a monk, with his hands uplifted as in prayer; under this, an eagle displayed."

There are many monuments in this church, both ancient and curious; but they are much mutilated, and most of the inscriptions obliterated. A plain stone chest in the south-east corner of the choir has been by some supposed to contain the bones of bishop Gundulph, who died in 1107, at the age of eightysix. To the west of this, under the adjoining window, is another such chest, with the portrait of a bishop in his robes; supposed to be Thomas de Inglethorpe, the forty-fourth bishop of this see. In a recess opposite to this is a third stone chest, thought to contain the remains of bishop Laurence de St. Martin; and in the adjoining recess to the west, is a monument of a shrine-like character, supposed to have been erected by the monks in honour of the bishop Gilbert de Glanville. It is sculptured with heads of ecclesiastics in quartrefoil panels. To the west of this, on an altar-tomb, beneath a canopy, is a statue in red-veined marble of Walter de Merton, the celebrated founder of Merton college, Oxford, and bishop of this see, who died in 1277. The present monument, though its existence is a testimony of the respect shown by the warden (Sir Henry Savile) and fellows of Merton college, to the memory of their founder, in rebuilding a demolished monument, is, in no sense, equal to that which once existed. A costly tomb, highly adorned with enamelling in the style of the thirteenth century, was originally erected over his remains; his effigy, in episcopal robes, being engraved on a brass plate,

E. W. Brayley, esq., the writer of the "Kent" volume of the "Beauties of England and Wales.”

hind it."

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and fixed in the upper horizontal stone. | sir, have witnessed the withering traces it leaves beRound the verge of the tomb were Latin verses in praise of his good work in founding Merton college. But, this interesting memorial shared the fate of many similar works of art at the Reformation. It was destroyed; and the present monument, exhibiting a recumbent figure of the bishop with his arms, and a purse (the latter his badge as lord chancellor), was set up in the place of the original one.

This notice ought not to be concluded without naming the Royal Free Grammar School, which forms a part of the cathedral establishment; and was instituted for the education of twenty boys, to be called "king's scholars," with an upper and under master, to be paid by the church. There are four exhibitions to the universities, each of the yearly value of £5. This school has also, with that of Maidstone, four exhibitions of fifteen pounds each, with rooms in University college, Oxford; this latter privilege having been conferred, as a bequest by will, by the rev. Robert Gunsley, rector of Titsey in Surrey, in the year 1618. This school, according to the words of the charter (which is in Latin), was established, "That piety and useful learning may for ever grow and flourish, and may bring forth fruit in their day to the glory of God, and the benefit and ornament of the state*."

* "Ut pietas et bonæ literæ perpetuo in nostrâ ecclesia suppullescant, crescant, et floreant; et suo tempore in gloriam Dei et reipublicæ commodum et ornamentum, fructificent."

[We hope to have another opportunity of describing the late repairs of Rochester cathedral, to which we cannot at present more than allude.-ED.]

THE TAINT OF BLOOD*.

"IT is the taint of blood," suggested Miss Pyemont.

"That term should be used sparingly," said that lady's uncle, who happened to be present; an old military man, who had seen life under various aspects, and was always more ready to listen than to condemn: "we cannot measure our expressions too carefully; and the taint of blood

"Is one," interrupted the lady, "of which I know the meaning, and am prepared to defend it. You,

• From "The Bishop's Daughter," by the author of "The Life-book of a Labourer." Dalton, 1842. This book contains some interesting passages; but they are disjecta membra, not well worked up into a whole. Real names and events and fictitious ones are brought into somewhat perplexing contact. The bishop, after 14 years incumbency of Dovedale-the author lets us see he means Worcester-and with but one daughter, ought not to have died so much in debt. Neither, perhaps, ought the daughter, for the sake of the example, while really generous, to have seemed miserly. The work is decidedly inferior to its predecessor.-ED.

The old man sighed, and attempted no reply. "A relative of mine," continued the lady, name is immaterial"—this was said somewhat significantly—" served in India in the 12th foot. The colonel of the regiment, Sir Henry Harvey Aston, an admirable disciplinarian, had the misfortune to become embroiled with his own nephew, a major in the same corps; went out with him, and fell. If ever man was beloved in a regiment, liked by his brother

He was released from

officers, and confided in by the troops, major Allen was that man. There was a frankness and cordiality · of manner, a mirth and gaiety of temperament and address, that rendered him as a companion universally popular. Immediately after the duel, he was put under arrest, sent down to Madras, subjected to court-martial, and acquitted. arrest, and ordered to return to his duty. He did so, an altered man. His spirits were gone-the cheerfulness which no difficulties could ruffle, and the pleasantry which no annoyances could check, had wholly disappeared. The taint of blood was upon him; and he vainly struggled to emerge from the gloom with which, for him, life was henceforth clouded. Active hostilities were expected. The regiment lay before Seringapatam, and there he died-of no wound, no disease, unless you include among the catalogue of human maladies quenchless regrets and ever-goading

remorse."

"He died a broken-hearted man," said the old soldier in a subdued tone.

"Much the same sort of feeling," resumed the lady, 66 seems to have overshadowed another successful duellist: I allude to the well-known captain Best, the antagonist of lord Camelford. The duel was forced upon him, an abandoned woman promoted it, and lord Camelford, before he went to the ground, told his second that he himself was in the wrong; that Best was a man of honour; but that he could not bring himself to retract words which he had once used. He fell, at once the aggressor and sufferer. But captain Best was never his own man afterwards. He died at the early age of eight-and-forty, at a boarding-house, called "the Blanquetts," near Worcester. Sorrow and remorse had done on him the work of years. In his closing hours, he is said to have told those who were in his confidence that the duel and its results had embittered every moment of his life; that the whole scene was as fresh in his memory as if it had happened yesterday; and that there were times when lord Camelford seemed to stand before him, and gaze on him with an earnestness and tenacity that rendered life a burden. In consequence of some embarrassments--whence contracted I know not, for he inherited West India property to a considerable amount-he was for some time within the rules of the King's Bench. In his domestic arrangements too he was unfortunate. His marriage proved disastrous, and was dissolved by act of parliament. But he once and again declared that every sorrow would have sat lightly upon him, could he but have succeeded in wiping the stain of homicide from his brow."

The lady ceased, but the veteran mused on

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