here ride in an artificial basin scooped out of the shore, and surrounded on all sides by substantial quays. Another port of similar construction, and equal in extent, is now in contemplation.

The fatiguing but highly gratifying and instructive rounds of this day terminated with a visit to the ship Active, to which the Surgeon, who accompanied us, is attached.* He added to his civilities by conducting us over every part of the vessel, showing without reserve its equipments, its regulations, and internal police. After resting awhile in its splendid cabins, and examining the choice library in his own state-room, we took leave, probably forever, of a gentleman whose kindness and hospitality to a party of entire strangers, with no other recommendation than the American name, made too deep an impression upon our feelings ever to be forgotten.

The residue of our stay at Toulon was occupied in perambulating its walls, traversing some of its principal streets, and examining its public institutions. A striking peculiarity was observed in the mode of numbering the houses. The blocks of buildings formed by the intersection of streets are denominated islands, designated numerically, and each house is readily found, by the double index of its own number and that of the isle. Bordering upon the quay and fronting the harbour, stands the Hotel de Ville, a stately edifice embellished by the chisel of Pujet, who avenged himself of two of his enemies among the magistrates, by converting them into Caryatides, or slaves to support the balcony, and by making their wry faces so like the originals, that they were universally recognized. Thus has genius, however depressed, sometimes the means of revenging the insolence of wealth and power; as by the providence of nature, the feeblest animals are frequently armed with the sharpest stings.

The principal public squares at Toulon are the Place Lis and the Champ de Bataille. A clear and copious fountain, issuing from the midst of marine emblems, adorns the former. The latter is a spacious area, bordered by rows of trees, and used as the field for military

*This vessel had just returned from a voyage to Leith, in Scotland, whither it had been for the purpose of bringing home the remains of Madame Gaiche, Dutchess of Gramont, who was attached to the exiled court of the Count d'Artois, (the present king of France,) during his residence at Edinburgh, where she died, and was for a time deposited in the royal sepulchre, at Holyrood House. I believe she was the only one of the refugees, who died in exile, although the party was numerous, consisting of the members of the royal family and their attachées, with maids of honour as well as of dishonour, from the pink of nobility, down to Madame Polistron, the Count's mistress.

parades. One of the noblest edifices in the town is the Marine Hospital, which presents a lofty and rich front to the main street. Its location is bad, being in the midst of a populous district, with a confined air. It was not a subject of deep regret, that admittance to its wards was refused on making application at the door. We attended the theatre one evening; but neither the house nor the play presented any thing worthy of notice.

A walk to the Botanic Garden, situated without the walls and near the base of the hills which rise to the north of the town, was among our last and most pleasant excursions. The location is admirable, the grounds lying upon a declivity which looks to the south, and always enjoys the genial influence of the sun. In the rear, the enclosure becomes so steep as to rise in terraces one above another, all filled with plants, and adding much to the picturesque beauty of the garden. Among the embellishments of this charming retreat, is a fountain bursting from a pyramid of rock overgrown with grass and moss, presenting a beautiful image of nature. Seats have been erected, where visitants may repose in the shade, and enjoy the coolness and the murmur of this little water-fall.

The plants of the garden all bear labels, designating their generic and specific names. A veteran attendant who seemed well acquainted with all the members of the numerous family committed to his care, conducted us through the alleys and the green-houses, plucking one flower after another, till each of our party had a fine bouquet. Here the palmtree spread its branches, though its fruit had been nipped by the unusually severe frost of the last winter. Here also the black pepper was seen clinging to the sunny wall, sheltered from the winds, and finding a tropical climate. Among the other most curious plants, were all the varieties of coffee in full bearing. That from Mocha is a beautiful shrub, six or eight feet in height, finely proportioned and of peculiar foliage. An orange tree was observed which had been engrafted with the lemon, and which was then bearing six different kinds of fruit. One of the productions was a twin monster, half orange and half citron, growing on the same stem. A profusion of Japan roses spread their gorgeous petals to the sun, and many a bud was just starting into life.

The walks of the Garden are open to the public, and connected with the spacious boulevards which encircle the walls of the town, form one of the most delightful promenades imaginable, affording a wide prospect of the mountains on one side, and of the sea on the other. A refuge from the noise and bustle of crowded streets, and

from the heat of fervid skies, is here provided at a trifling expense. In these sequestered retreats, the naturalist may indulge in his favourite pursuits, and the man of business recreate his mind, after the cares and labours of the day. All classes of the community are interested in institutions of this description, which are to be found in almost every village in France, and which I hope may ere long be as, extensively introduced into the United States.

LETTER XLVI.

ROUTE TO NICE-LE LUC-DRAGUIGNAN-FREJUS-CANNES-ANTIBES -ARRIVAL AT NICE-SKETCH OF THE TOWN.

March, 1826.

AT 4 o'clock on the morning of the 17th, we left Toulon in the coach for Le Luc, distant about forty miles to the north-east. The scenery, the weather, and the conversation of our fellow-passengers all conspired to render the ride agreeable, although it afforded few incidents worthy of record. For the whole distance the road traverses a fertile vale from five to ten miles in breadth, bounded on the left by a ridge of porphyritic hills, and on the right by a succession of highlands, which stretch along the coast of the Mediterranean. The soil is of a reddish complexion, and appears to be extremely productive. Groves of olives, vineyards, and fields of grain, enlivened by the bloom of the peach and almond, extended on all sides as far as the eye could reach, forming a rich and varied landscape. The mode of cultivating wheat is somewhat peculiar. It is sown in rows, and innumerable companies of females were busy in stirring the ground about the roots, and in plucking up the superfluous stalks. The peasantry in this part of France have dark, hard, and severe faces, but are gentle in their manners, and industrious in their habits.

The towns, villages, and insulated buildings scattered along the road are uniformly mean in appearance, though some of them are romantically situated, being perched upon the very summits of the hills, apparently accessible only to the birds. Such is the location of the village, appropriately called Hauteville, seated upon the pinnacle of a mountain, and incorporated with the rocks, hundreds of feet above our heads. It is said to be the oldest place in Provence, and to have been founded at a period, when it was customary to build upon the most elevated ground, partly for salubrity of air, and partly for purposes of defence. A better reason can be assigned for erecting churches and other religious edifices upon high places. In France the practice almost universally prevails, and numerous chapels and convents were this day seen, hanging like the nest of the eagle in the topmost crags of the mountains.

Passing the old towns of Solier, Cuers, and several unimportant villages, we reached Le Luc at 1 o'clock in the afternoon, expecting there to meet the coach from Aix, to take us forward towards Nice. But it was ascertained, that it would be necessary to wait till the next

day, and then incur the risk of not obtaining a passage. A traveller in this part of France is subjected to many inconveniences. The public conveyances are bad, and the miserable dirty huts called taverns are execrable. Strange as it may seem, at the town of Le Luc, standing at the junction of two great roads, and containing three thousand inhabitants, there is not a single hotel, where a person can rest with comfort.

Reduced to the alternative of taking lodgings in a hovel, or of making a diversion of half a day's ride from a direct course, the latter was preferred; and after partaking of a déjeuné, which was of a piece with the rest of the inn, we continued our journey to Draguignan, fifteen or twenty miles to the north, and about the same distance from the sea. The scenery here became extremely picturesque, consisting of mountains clothed with forests, and valleys green with olives and corn. In one place an extensive grove of pines was observed-the first that had been seen in France. The weather was as mild, and the season as forward, as it is in New-York on the first of May. Groups of peasants of both sexes were every where seen throwing up the soil with spades, forks, and a kind of pick-axe, preparing it for the cultivation of the vine. In the South of France, almost every process in agriculture is effected by manual labour; and the greater part of the drudgery is performed by females, who have too much of the coarseness of the other sex. I do not recollect to have seen a plough between Paris and the Mediterranean.

Crossing the classical river Argens, mentioned in one of the epistles of Cicero, a pretty stream foaming over a bed of rocks, and winding for several miles up a deep, rural vale, we arrived just at twilight under the walls of Draguignan, a large handsome town, hidden among the hills. It is the seat of the Prefecture for the Department of the Var; and as much formality was required in entering its gates, as in landing upon the the quay at Calais. Our passports were demanded by a circle of police officers, who on spelling out our names and country, eyed us with as much attention and seemed as much surprised, as if we had come from the South Sea Islands. They probably had never seen an American before. They however seemed pleased with the novelty, and treated us with much politeness. The wonder spread in whispers through the crowd, and even boys gathered about the custom-house to see how we looked.

The comforts of a good hotel consoled us for the pains that had been taken to find it, and the luxury of a dish of tea and a clean bed soothed all the vexations, which the irregularities of the coaches had created. A long ramble on the following morning satisfied us, that