66

BY JOHN L. STEPHENS,

AUTHOR OF INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETRÆA, AND THE
HOLY LAND," ETC.

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

TWELFTH EDITION.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1846..

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.-Village of Masaya.-Lake of Masaya.-Nindi

r1.-Ascent of the Volcano.-Account of it.-The Crater.-Descent into it.-

Volcano of Nindiri.-Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest.—

Return to Masaya.-Another Countryman.-Managua.-Lake of Managua.-

Fishing. Beautiful Scenery.-Mateares.-Questa del Relox.-Nagarotis.-

Crosses.-A Gamekeeper.-Pueblo Nuevo

CHAPTER II.

Page 7

Beautiful Plain.-Leon.-Stroll through the Town.-Baneful Effects of Party

Spirit.-Scenes of Horror.-Unpleasant Intelligence.-Journey continued.—

A fastidious Beggar.—Chinandaga.-Gulf of Couchagua.—Visit to Realejo.—

Cotton Factory.-Harbour of Realejo.-El Viejo.-Port of Nagoscolo.- Im-

portance of a Passport.-Embarking Mules.-A Bungo.-Volcano of Cosagui-

na.-Eruption of 1835.-La Union

-

CHAPTER III.

22

Journey to San Salvador.-A new Companion.-San Alejo.-San Miguel.-War

Alarms. Another Countryman.-State of San Salvador.-River Lempa. -

San Vicente.-Volcano of San Vicente.-Thermal Springs.-Cojutepeque.—

Arrival at San Salvador. — Prejudice against Foreigners. - Contributions.—

Pressgangs.-Vice-president Vigil.-Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente.

-Rumours of a March upon San Salvador.-Departure from San Salvador 41

CHAPTER IV.

Contributions.-El Baranco de Guaramal.-Volcano of Izalco.-Depredations of

Rascon.-Zonzonate.-News from Guatimala.-Journey continued.—Aguisal

co.- -Apeneca.-Mountain of Aguachapa. Subterranean Fires.-Aguachapa.—

Defeat of Morazan.-Confusion and Terror

58

Approach of Carreia's Forces.-Terror of the Inhabitants.-Their Flight.-Sur

render of the Town.-Ferocity of the Soldiery.-A Bulletin.-Diplomacy.-A

Passport.-A Breakfast.-An Alarm.-The Widow Padilla.-An Attack.-De

feat of Carrera's Forces.-The Town taken by General Morazan.—His Entry.

-The Widow's Son.-Visit to General Morazan.-His Appearance, Character,

&c.-Plans deranged

74

CHAPTER VI.

Visit from General Morazan.-End of his Career.-Procuring a Guide.- Depar-

ture for Guatimala.-Fright of the People.-The Rio Paz.-Hacienda of Pal-

mita.-A fortunate Escape.-Hacienda of San José.—An awkward Predica-

ment.-A kind Host.-Rancho of Hocotilla.-Oratorio and Leon.-Rio de los

Esclavos.-The Village.-Approach to Guatimala.-Arrival at Guatimala.—A

Sketch of the Wars.-Defeat of Morazan.-Scene of Massacre Page 93

CHAPTER VII.

Ruins of Quirigua.-Visit to them.-Los Amates.-Pyramidal Structure.-A

Colossal Head.-An Altar.-A Collection of Monuments.-Statues.-Charac-

ter of the Ruins.-A lost City.-Purchasing a ruined City

CHAPTER VIII.

118

Reception at the Government House.-The Captain in Trouble.-A Change of

Character.-Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.-Arrest of the Captain.-

His Release.-Visit from a Countryman.-Dangers in Prospect.-Last Stroll

through the Suburbs.-Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.-Fearful

State of the Country.-Last Interview with Carrera.-Departure from Guati-

mala. A Don Quixote. - Ciudad Vieja. - Plain of El Vieja. - Volcanoes,

Plains, and Villages.-San Andres Isapa.-Dangerous Road.-A Molina. 125

-

CHAPTER IX.

Journey continued.-Barrancas.-Tecpan Guatimala.-A noble Church.-A sa-

cred Stone.-The ancient City.-Description of the Ruins.-A Molina.-Anoth-

er Earthquake-Patzum.-A Ravine.-Fortifications.-Los Altos. - Godines.

-Losing a good Friend.-Magnificent Scenery.-San Antonio.-Lake of Ati-

tan

CHAPTER X.

146

Lake of Atitan.-Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.—A Sail on the Lake.-A dan-

gerous Situation.-A lofty Mountain Range.-Ascent of the Mountains.-Com-

manding View.-Beautiful Plain.-An elevated Village.-Ride along the Lake.

-Solola.-Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché.-Scenery on the Road.-Barrancas.

-San Thomas.-Whipping-posts.--Plain of Quiché.-The Village.-Ruins of

Quiché.-Its History.-Desolate Scene.-A facetious Cura.-Description of

the Ruins.-Plan.-The Royal Palace.-The Place of Sacrifice.—An Image.

-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Palace recent.-An Arch

. 161

CHAPTER XI.

Interior of a Convent.-Royal Bird of Quiché.-Indian Languages.-The Lord's

Prayer in the Quiché Language.-Numerals in the same.-Church of Quiché.

-Indian Superstitions.-Another lost City.-Tierra de Guerra.-The Abori

ginals.-Their Conversion to Christianity.-They were never conquered.—A